My plants going line green..
- Thread starter Porky101
- Start date
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
Porky101
Well-Known Member
It does not drop daily, but I do change it up daily from 1.2-1.4 sometimes it drops sometimes it goes up.
I flush to avoid nutrient buildup.
My nutrients are fine. I'm using veg nutes Parts in ppm: N106 P:48 K 101 . My plants under my T-5 lights are fine, its only once I put them under the LEDS do they start going light green....
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
use less EC so that it drops daily and you wont' have nute buildup either.
Porky101
Well-Known Member
I find that impossible. I always get buildup....I check via runoff...?
Gratefultrip
Well-Known Member
I have been having this problem I finally figured out the strain ILGM gold Leaf autos does not like too much light.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
that's why it's important to know how much your EC drops daily.
if you are only dropping 0.1 a day, then 1.2 or 1.4 is way too much. you could get by with 0.4 to 0.6
if you are dropping 0.5 a day then 1.2 to 1.4 is probably pretty good.
Porky101
Well-Known Member
As I said above, under my T-5s they do fine. Under the LEDS they going yellow (T5 is closer and they are getting more light under the T-5's)
Porky101
Well-Known Member
Ok so how should I feed in a week? 1.2 , 1.2, 1.2, 1.2 ,1.0, 1.0 ,0.6 rinse repeat?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i should have asked: what is your medium? dwc, coco, soil??
hybridway2
Amare Shill
You know why don't you? For real know why.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
They look pretty decent IMO but you see the difference & know its not right. Lil pale.
How many runs under led have you had? I ask because it does take some dialing in after using T-5, HPS/MH.
I've had them go very pale using my regular feed that always worked. This lead me to try others, blame everything & everyone as diferent forms of defficencies kept repeating themselves for 2 yrs on certain stains under my primarily white leds. Pure, plain white around 3k was the hardest for me.
Its just recently I've learned to get a pale plant back to dark green under my leds. And better yet, avoid a pale or defficencient plant altogether.
Magnesium bra. Not Cal/Mag but plain ole Epsom salt dissolved in hot water.
Tiny bit more Cal-mag (1-2ml more/gal)
Occasionally a N Tea but not sure if you like that in Hempies? I use BatGuano Comp. Green Label (good in hydro).
Also helps big time to not just dim the lights but back them up. Especially till you get the green back. For some reason a close, dimmed light is not the same as far away for healing purposes.
When everything you run does fine & always did fine until switching to led it is called "LedDefficiency" .
Not the end of the world & ultimately Growers error after learning about how to start remedy.
Sure there's a whole lot more to it & speculation out the Ass but this is what worked for me & many others.
VDP now comes into play & should not be ignored. Along with leaf temps that are now approx. -2• ambient after fans when they used to be +5-7• higher with hps.
After dialed in, there's no going back. I recently hit the 2gw mark, quality through the roof & 350 g plants are now 600g plants.
New nutes are being made & altered for LEDs daily so it will even get easier.
You can literally hit double the light output per watt as SE/HPS now.
So it's is easy to overlight the plant using anywhere close to the hps/T-5 wattage you may be used to. Not to mention the spectrum. There is so much more of each bandwidth then there is lil spikes on T-5 & HPS. This demands more from your plant. Give it to the girl right & she'll reward you x2-3 fold your hps/T-5.
Last edited:
