DIY with Quantum Boards

HolyAngel

HolyAngel

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
I'm looking at these 4 packs of qb132s and HLG says they don't need heatsinks... What am I supposed to do with them then??? I'm not trying to send any money overseas... I'm at the end of my rope!!! I can't stand having an empty tent looking me in the face...
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You just hang them up? They don't run hot enough to need heatsinks at all. You can add a heatsink anyways, or mount the boards to some angle iron/aluminum or however you want.
 
Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
How tall are the plants???
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The plants are about two feet tall from the base of the pots and I posted pictures of them at the end of that thread I posted above

I decided to bring them up and turn them up and I measured the lux is between 40000-50000 I really hope they don’t burn up!!
 
daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
I just calculated the volts x amps under load and did not account for the driver loss and wire loss( 10' solid 18 gauge ). When I received the 185 drivers the VO pot was turned down significant enough that the qb96 didn't seem that bright. I maxed that out and big difference in brightness. I adjust the IO pot instead. I was looking at the A vs B driver video from Led gardener and there was mention how to best tune in one of these drivers w/ 2 pots. I will revisit that.

THe 115 120 V seems to change slightly. I was measuring from that wall meter under load. Are you suggesting I should throw my meter on the AC side and check the circuit under load using the AC side/volts of the meter?

I suppose buying one of those DC meters for 20 bucks would would still need to account for the driver and wire loss, correct?


pop22 said:
Did you account for driver and wiring losses? you need to subtract those to know what your boards actually are drawing. Wiring just figure about 2 watts. Driver loss is about 5% of the total.

still seems high for the 185HI'll check mine, I have three of them running

Also, voltage seems pretty high, here are the ( I assume average ) specs for a V1 @ 2100ma

View attachment 4423400

Have you made adjustments to the voltage? ( the Vo adjuster )

Lastly, did you check the voltage at your AC outlet? V should be 115V, not 120V.
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2

2com

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
How would I do this in a square??? Or is this the only way to do it???View attachment 4423624
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That just looks like series to me. Leaves driver "-", then goes to -, +, -, +, etc. back to the driver "+". Arrange them (mentally) in a square. Then do the same thing (neg, pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, etc.) Into the neg. of one board, out the pos. of same board, into the neg. of the next board, regardless of layout.

Maybe I missed something. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
2com said:
That just looks like series to me. Leaves driver "-", then goes to -, +, -, +, etc. back to the driver "+". Arrange them (mentally) in a square. Then do the same thing (neg, pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, etc.) Into the neg. of one board, out the pos. of same board, into the neg. of the next board, regardless of layout.

Maybe I missed something. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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That's kinda what I thought... Gonna have to build a frame of some sort
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
The 4000k boards produced tighter internodes and more foilage. I often grow veggies in with my canna if I have room. My tomatoes didn't like mu other QBs... strange i know. but under the 4k they went nuts! Flowered like crazy and produced some very sweet tomatoes. Although subjective, buds seemed denser under the 4000k. harvest weight was about the same across the 3 spectrum, within +/- 3% usually. and I've grow maybe 30 different strains under them, with only Super Sliver Haze liking the 3000k most.


Hero420 said:
It is cool see you have messed with all of those Kelvin ratings! Were there any other differences you noted between the three like internode length, density, and resin production? If i might ask why do you like 4000K boards best? Thank you for your thoughts.
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pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
You can run 288s with no heatsink also, you just need to limit current per board. And I've come to the conclusion that the low chip count boards are only good for those really tight for money. yes they work, but one 288 at 60 watts puts out more light than 2 120s or 132s. I'm going to replace my QB 120s with 288s, and keep them as backups. A pair of 288s cost only a little more than four, 132s.

Frank Nitty said:
I'm looking at these 4 packs of qb132s and HLG says they don't need heatsinks... What am I supposed to do with them then??? I'm not trying to send any money overseas... I'm at the end of my rope!!! I can't stand having an empty tent looking me in the face...
Click to expand...
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
You can run 288s with no heatsink also, you just need to limit current per board. And I've come to the conclusion that the low chip count boards are only good for those really tight for money. yes they work, but one 288 at 60 watts puts out more light than 2 120s or 132s. I'm going to replace my QB 120s with 288s, and keep them as backups. A pair of 288s cost only a little more than four, 132s.
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Didn't think of it like that
 
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