ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I don't. I illuminate from the side lolYes, the distributed arrays (like my strip light) are a move in that direction, but you still get significant fall off as you go down. Why stop at just illuminating from the top?
I don't. I illuminate from the side lolYes, the distributed arrays (like my strip light) are a move in that direction, but you still get significant fall off as you go down. Why stop at just illuminating from the top?
I'm sorry, but if I could just point something out . . .For shits and giggles, I decided what I could do with the same design using HID.
Turns out, in order to accomplish that I would need two 600W HID with cool tubes and ductwork. That would drive initial costs up.
I didn't do the numbers, but it seems the waste heat of HID, coupled with proper management, might wash with the cost of LED.
I've been waiting for this day for a decade, and I'm already behind everyone else.
I'd recommend 3000K 90CRI for the direction and for UV supplementation go with tried and true T5. LED doesn't yet do UV well, gladly- or cheaply. Seriously, saw a UVB COB for $44,000...I'm sorry, but if I could just point something out . . .
I've already been doing that for a decade. 2 x 600w HPS in 4'x4', no cool tube, circular trellis, and 3-4lb every single grow, averaging around 3.5lb.
If you're going to design a double-wall LED system, then my yardstick would be the above - only because it's proven (not because I'm showing off!).
I've currenlty got room for a 4'x2' flowering chamber and no more, due to confined space. For me to go LED, I need to yield at least 1.5lb to rival my old system. I'll likely be using a nine-week strain with run-to-waste organic nutrient coco. First run will be eight plants - 1 per square foot (from seed, and clones thereafter). So I need about 3oz per plant.
I'm inclined to go with something like a QB 2700k, but I'm thinking I need at least four boards running at 400+w - but I'm open to suggestions.
I'd also entertain the idea of supplementing the board with a couple of T5s running along each side for a bit of UV: http://www.eyehortilux.com/products/powerveg-fs-uv-white.aspx
In fact, any fluoro is a good, cheap source of UV, even if they aren't that efficient. Unless there's another (cost-effective) way to supplement UVA/B with strip LEDs? A bit of Far Red would also be nice.
I'm sorry, but if I could just point something out . . .
I've already been doing that for a decade. 2 x 600w HPS in 4'x4', no cool tube, circular trellis, and 3-4lb every single grow, averaging around 3.5lb.
If you're going to design a double-wall LED system, then my yardstick would be the above - only because it's proven (not because I'm showing off!).
I've currenlty got room for a 4'x2' flowering chamber and no more, due to confined space. For me to go LED, I need to yield at least 1.5lb to rival my old system. I'll likely be using a nine-week strain with run-to-waste organic nutrient coco. First run will be eight plants - 1 per square foot (from seed, and clones thereafter). So I need about 3oz per plant.
I'm inclined to go with something like a QB 2700k, but I'm thinking I need at least four boards running at 400+w - but I'm open to suggestions.
I'd also entertain the idea of supplementing the board with a couple of T5s running along each side for a bit of UV: http://www.eyehortilux.com/products/powerveg-fs-uv-white.aspx
In fact, any fluoro is a good, cheap source of UV, even if they aren't that efficient. Unless there's another (cost-effective) way to supplement UVA/B with strip LEDs? A bit of Far Red would also be nice.
I'd recommend 3000K 90CRI for the direction and for UV supplementation go with tried and true T5. LED doesn't yet do UV well, gladly- or cheaply. Seriously, saw a UVB COB for $44,000...
That's a touch out of my price range.
Actinic super blue with UV. T5. It will still give you a sunburn.Wasn't it the quartz tubes we need to get for proper UV?
We would also want to stay out of the grow room when they are on.
I never used them, everything seemed frosty enough. Besides, I spend too much time talking to my plants (honestly), I wouldn't want to have to budget that with UV rays.Actinic super blue with UV. T5. It will still give you a sunburn.
Nice thing about T5 is that you can always shut them off while you're in there.I never used them, everything seemed frosty enough. Besides, I spend too much time talking to my plants (honestly), I wouldn't want to have to budget that with UV rays.
Maybe one day, when I'm not that interested in watching the miracle of life.
I haven't felt the need for them, either. But I know some who run them the last few weeks and some who run them from seed.@ttystikk
They are best for ripening, IIRC.
Turn them on for the last 2-3 weeks?
I could manage that.
Where to put them though...
Dual or Quad.. the only room I could see is EB strips under the canopy.. and those won't even be necessary.
I bet the distance of those T-5's are the same as the rest, even without the coating and quartz?
Depending on the size of the fixture, a sphere could still be used. If you're putting just a bulb in, that's the results you're going to get. But if you put a fixture in...you will get fixture level results.@Prawn Connery
Hey man, I was just wondering if there's an average percentage/number that can be applied to the manufacturer PPF ratings of HID (hps) bulbs to account for the fact (it is a fact, right?) that they're measuring the bulbs output from 360*, in a sphere, when in actual use half of their output is going upwards and being bounced/reflected several times before it heads back down towards the canopy? 25%? 35%?
Example, a 2100umol PPF rating for a 1000w hps can't be accurate for whats being put out towards the plant, after reflector losses, etc...?
Maybe I'm wrong.
Thanks.
That HPS bulb is going to output light in all directions. It needs a reflector to focus the light, and even still, not all of that light is going to hit the reflector and shine on the plants. So you would at least need to factor in a loss of PPF from the use of the reflector.Thanks for the link GreenGene,
So, here's the HLG550 lab report (from hlg.ca site):
Total PPF (umol/s): 1178.05
The Gravita from the link you posted (I always thought it was Gavita, anyways),
Photon Flux, 350-750nm (μmol/s): 1920.0
From Ushio manufacturer website (https://www.ushio.com/product/hilux-gro-super-hps-single-ended-grow-light/)
1000 Watt HPS MMol/s (umol/s): 2100
600 Watt HPS MMol/s (umol/s): 1150
So, if I'm getting this right, and I might be missing something still, there is no "reduction"/percentage to be removed from these HID PPF output numbers? And if that's right, then the HLG 550 V2, for example, has an intensity/total PPF output comparable to a 600Watt HPS, not a 1000w single ended HPS?...
Edit:...And doubling a 550, would be similar power consumption to what a "1000w" HPS uses, right? Yet it would essentially be 2356.1 PPF - compared to 1900-2100 (ish) PPF from an HPS... Hmm...
Well that is a top of the line DE bulb and reflector. And it's really the reflector there doing so well at minimal losses.Thanks for the link GreenGene,
So, here's the HLG550 lab report (from hlg.ca site):
Total PPF (umol/s): 1178.05
The Gravita from the link you posted (I always thought it was Gavita, anyways),
Photon Flux, 350-750nm (μmol/s): 1920.0
From Ushio manufacturer website (https://www.ushio.com/product/hilux-gro-super-hps-single-ended-grow-light/)
1000 Watt HPS MMol/s (umol/s): 2100
600 Watt HPS MMol/s (umol/s): 1150
So, if I'm getting this right, and I might be missing something still, there is no "reduction"/percentage to be removed from these HID PPF output numbers? And if that's right, then the HLG 550 V2, for example, has an intensity/total PPF output comparable to a 600Watt HPS, not a 1000w single ended HPS?...
Edit:...And doubling a 550, would be similar power consumption to what a "1000w" HPS uses, right? Yet it would essentially be 2356.1 PPF - compared to 1900-2100 (ish) PPF from an HPS... Hmm...
The test that were linked/presented and what he is referring to take into account the reflector loss.That HPS bulb is going to output light in all directions. It needs a reflector to focus the light, and even still, not all of that light is going to hit the reflector and shine on the plants. So you would at least need to factor in a loss of PPF from the use of the reflector.
Thanks for taking the time to share these with me and answer my questions Greengenes.Well that is a top of the line DE bulb and reflector. And it's really the reflector there doing so well at minimal losses.
For a single ended reference
, and more importantly than the bulb difference is the lesser performing reflector. It is the big difference in output loss compared to bare bulb of probably 1800-1900umols for a single ended.Eye Hortilux Super HPS Enhanced 1000W SE - Goniometer Lab Report
Test results reported for: Hortilux Samples Covered in Report: Super HPS Grow Lamp CSA Report: CHIH004-031 Original issue date: 3/16/2017 Revision Issue Date: 4/3/2017 Test Conditions Test Date: March 9, 2017 Method: goniophotometer, spectroradiometer x-axis Alignment: 0.0 ± 0.01 m y-axis...chilledgrowlights.com
The test that were linked/presented and what he is referring to take into account the reflector loss.
Didn't even see your post, even though GG quoted it, thought it was from way back or something.That HPS bulb is going to output light in all directions. It needs a reflector to focus the light, and even still, not all of that light is going to hit the reflector and shine on the plants. So you would at least need to factor in a loss of PPF from the use of the reflector.