DIY with Quantum Boards

[Chip Green]

Why not get one more and have lighting that will last longer and be more efficient?

Because I have 3 unused heatsinks...
They won't be driven hard, well under their threshold. That's the idea of dimmable drivers that cannot exceed the capability of the heatsinks I have.
I'm well aware of the importance of thermal management in relation to diode performance.

 

[pop22]

While your here, why not take a look at the REAL OQ boards? All those Chinese "QB" boards are a rip off of Horticultural Lighting Groups far superior product. And get a three year warranty! Sometimes it's well worth it to spend just a little more for a far better product!

Thank you! I have deleted the post and put it in the other thread!

 

[TWest65]

36B? They 54v right? I always thought if you ran a certain voltage LED on a CV driver it could only pull the wattage the IO curve alotted at a set voltage. If you run one 96e on a 600h-54b at 54v it want pull the whole 600w. Am I wrong?
I’m not sure, I’ve questioned this before because on LED Gardeners strip builds he mentions that you must have all the strips hooked up on a parallel build before powering on which contradicts my way of thinking.

Where does LED Gardner say that? I'd like to see his reasoning.

 

[pop22]

These drivers are designed for parallel circuits. Yes if you connect just one COB or QB it will get the maximum current available! the current is divided between the QBs, COBs, etc. So you want to connect your leds to a driver like this as a pre-wired parallel circuit to prevent damage to a QB, strip etc.

And LED Gardener put, i believe, over 500 watts through a QB and even he was amazed it didn't fry instantly! Doesn't mean you want to test that possibility though..... lol!

36B? They 54v right? I always thought if you ran a certain voltage LED on a CV driver it could only pull the wattage the IO curve alotted at a set voltage. If you run one 96e on a 600h-54b at 54v it want pull the whole 600w. Am I wrong?
I’m not sure, I’ve questioned this before because on LED Gardeners strip builds he mentions that you must have all the strips hooked up on a parallel build before powering on which contradicts my way of thinking.

 

[RetiredToker76]

I switched from a 400w switchable HID to the HLG320w 3-board rsepc kit when my ballast died durring
the last two weeks of flower in Jan.

On the first full HLG grow, I saw an increase of 4oz on my harvest using less electricity and the same grow methods I've used for almost 5 years. Last 400w HID harvest in a 3.25 X 2 closet was 6.5oz. First harvest out of the HLG320 was 10.5 oz, using the same genetics, nutrients, and watering schedule. In fact I'm thinking that yield was low because one plant was pruned to 16 branches as an experiment, one which yielded 50g less than the other two plants, now I've got 3 plants with 8 branches each, so I should get that 50g back. Even with the over pruned plant, the change was dramatic enough that i'm ordering the 1board kit with an extra bspec baord for my 2X2 veg room and I'll just save the r-spec board for later.

I'm loving my new HLG and am really glad the girl at the hydro shop convinced me to upgrade.


Day 13 of Flower under the HLG

 

[coreywebster]

I switched from a 400w switchable HID to the HLG320w 3-board rsepc kit when my ballast died durring
the last two weeks of flower in Jan.

On the first full HLG grow, I saw an increase of 4oz on my harvest using less electricity and the same grow methods I've used for almost 5 years. Last 400w HID harvest in a 3.25 X 2 closet was 6.5oz. First harvest out of the HLG320 was 10.5 oz, using the same genetics, nutrients, and watering schedule. In fact I'm thinking that yield was low because one plant was pruned to 16 branches as an experiment, one which yielded 50g less than the other two plants, now I've got 3 plants with 8 branches each, so I should get that 50g back. Even with the over pruned plant, the change was dramatic enough that i'm ordering the 1board kit with an extra bspec baord for my 2X2 veg room and I'll just save the r-spec board for later.

I'm loving my new HLG and am really glad the girl at the hydro shop convinced me to upgrade.


Day 13 of Flower under the HLG
View attachment 4495700

So like 60% ish increase.. Sounds even better put like that.
Nice healthy plants, full use of your space! Nice work.

 

[bigmikey86]

Thank you! I have deleted the post and put it in the other thread!

Come to the dark side

 

[fragileassassin]

Come to the dark side

too expensive! Would have cost me at least 3x as much to go HLG.

 

[bigmikey86]

too expensive! Would have cost me at least 3x as much to go HLG.

Lol I meant the dark side of China, where the bats are

 

[fragileassassin]

Lol I meant the dark side of China, where the bats are

i am thoroughly confused. lmao

 

[oKiHai]

How much heat is it putting out compared to your 400W light?

 

[SCJedi]

I just found out (after I ordered) that the $29 QB 288 V1 from HLG is no longer a Samsung diode. (How is that still V1?)

Does anyone know how the 2835HE compares to the 561C?

From HLG WEBSITE:

"High efficiency boards designed for DIY projects. No Thermal Interface Material or paste is required. Samsung 561C for 5000K or Lumileds 2835HE for 3000K"

 

[ilovereggae]

I just found out (after I ordered) that the $29 QB 288 V1 from HLG is no longer a Samsung diode. (How is that still V1?)

Does anyone know how the 2835HE compares to the 561C?

From HLG WEBSITE:

"High efficiency boards designed for DIY projects. No Thermal Interface Material or paste is required. Samsung 561C for 5000K or Lumileds 2835HE for 3000K"

Go back a few pages I had a temporary meltdown about it but Stephen assured us they are quality. I posted a link w the spec sheet and they def look good. I also just pulled down my first harvest from the v1 boards today and can assure you that I have never had as nice of buds as this.

 

[Humple]

I just found out (after I ordered) that the $29 QB 288 V1 from HLG is no longer a Samsung diode. (How is that still V1?)

Does anyone know how the 2835HE compares to the 561C?

From HLG WEBSITE:

"High efficiency boards designed for DIY projects. No Thermal Interface Material or paste is required. Samsung 561C for 5000K or Lumileds 2835HE for 3000K"

As @ilovereggae said, Stephen assured us that the Lumiled 2835s they're using are of equal efficiency to the LM561C (and the Lumis can apparently handle more power). That said, you're right to ask how they could be v1 boards - that confused the shit out of all of us. I don't know if these 2835 boards are a long-term product (it has been asked here a couple of times, but no answer yet - and I'm too lazy to email HLG), but if they are going to keep producing them, a different naming convention would definitely be helpful.

 

[RetiredToker76]

How much heat is it putting out compared to your 400W light?

I haven't taken any heat measurements but it feels overall cooler to me. Under my 400 the hottest I ever got was about 86° with the house set to 74° in midsummer. I've got to get a new hygrometer system, my old one died and since I never really had heat or humidity problems I just let the 440cfm suck far more air through the closet than is needed.

I put the 440cfm fan hose right on top of the heatsink sucking hot air off the fins and directly off the driver. The heat sink is slightly warm to the touch but I can't really feel any difference between having the light on and off unless I get closer than 12" to the light. I'll get a hygrometer this month and see what the actual numbers say.

 

[boybelue]

These drivers are designed for parallel circuits. Yes if you connect just one COB or QB it will get the maximum current available! the current is divided between the QBs, COBs, etc. So you want to connect your leds to a driver like this as a pre-wired parallel circuit to prevent damage to a QB, strip etc.

And LED Gardener put, i believe, over 500 watts through a QB and even he was amazed it didn't fry instantly! Doesn't mean you want to test that possibility though..... lol!

I’m not quite sure I can agree here. I do agree I’m a little fuzzy in this area because I see a lot of contradictive information on this. It’s my understanding if you supply an LED with its set voltage it will only pull the current that matches up with that voltage on the IO curve. In one of LED gardeners YouTube vids around 18:45 he connects 2-QB 288s to a 600-54 with a meter reading the current for each board at 2.2, then disconnects a board and the current on the remaining board stays the same. In the parallel strip build I believe he mentions that you must hook all the strips up before powering them on. I need to look back at that info as he could be talking about using a higher voltage driver in the constant current region.

 

[GBAUTO]

boybelue, I think that you're correct about the relationship between driver voltage and current flow.
Parallel circuits work just like your house wiring. If your house has a 150A main service, when you plug a 100w light in it doesn't 'push' 150A through the light. The component has an internal resistance that will always determine how much current will flow vs circuit voltage.

 

[pop22]

Sorry, I misspoke. I meant they are designed for series cicuits. If you wire in parallel you divide the voltage as well as the current with this model of driver. I know this to be fact as I had two QB120 wired to a 80H-54. The QB 120 is 24 volt board with a 60 watt maximum adjusted the voltage ( Vo ) down and the amperage up ( Io ) and got 50 watts per board.

I’m not quite sure I can agree here. I do agree I’m a little fuzzy in this area because I see a lot of contradictive information on this. It’s my understanding if you supply an LED with its set voltage it will only pull the current that matches up with that voltage on the IO curve. In one of LED gardeners YouTube vids around 18:45 he connects 2-QB 288s to a 600-54 with a meter reading the current for each board at 2.2, then disconnects a board and the current on the remaining board stays the same. In the parallel strip build I believe he mentions that you must hook all the strips up before powering them on. I need to look back at that info as he could be talking about using a higher voltage driver in the constant current region.

 

[Airwalker16]

Sorry, I misspoke. I meant they are designed for series cicuits. If you wire in parallel you divide the voltage as well as the current with this model of driver. I know this to be fact as I had two QB120 wired to a 80H-54. The QB 120 is 24 volt board with a 60 watt maximum adjusted the voltage ( Vo ) down and the amperage up ( Io ) and got 50 watts per board.

I could have sworn parallel wiring only divided the current while voltage stays the same, always.

 

[boybelue]

Sorry, I misspoke. I meant they are designed for series cicuits. If you wire in parallel you divide the voltage as well as the current with this model of driver. I know this to be fact as I had two QB120 wired to a 80H-54. The QB 120 is 24 volt board with a 60 watt maximum adjusted the voltage ( Vo ) down and the amperage up ( Io ) and got 50 watts per board.

I believe in parallel the voltage always stays the same. If it was a 54A or I should say cc/cv driver, two boards probably put that driver in the constant current region/mode.