Natural nutes.

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Chanceman1405

Member
I’m not using any nutes and only
If I have too I’ll use cal mag. I do have advanced 3 part system and don’t know why. Using fox farm ocean forest also. My question is since I’m not very experienced. Is silica a natural nute I can use for protection and I did use michroazzae don’t know how to spell it. I want something to strengthen the plant maybe as a foliage spray. Running 2 LST 2000 mars in a 2x8 4 original lemon pie and in another tent growin 2 blue berry jack autos in a 2x2 with a TS 1000 mars. They are running 24 hour lights and the photo original lemon pie is on 18-6 as of now. Didn’t know if that info was important or not for my question.
 
TreeFarmerCharlie

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
CalMag is salt based so why would that be the only one you would be willing to use? If you want to go all natural then you need to mix up some nutrient rich soil and grow your plants out in much larger pots than usual. Otherwise your plants will run out of food and you will need to use dry amendments and/or compost teas.
 
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Chanceman1405

Member
TreeFarmerCharlie said:
CalMag is salt based so why would that be the only one you would be willing to use? If you want to go all natural then you need to mix up some nutrient rich soil and grow your plants out in much larger pots than usual. Otherwise your plants will run out of food and you will need to use dry amendments and/or compost teas.
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I was advised by quite a few people when using FFOF that nutes aren’t needed. The only thing they said to keep on hand was to be cal
Mag in case of any yellowing of leaves until obviously toward harvest. I was just reading on liquid seaweed and silica stuff and figured that would be a good addition if anything.
 
TreeFarmerCharlie

TreeFarmerCharlie

Well-Known Member
Chanceman1405 said:
I was advised by quite a few people when using FFOF that nutes aren’t needed. The only thing they said to keep on hand was to be cal
Mag in case of any yellowing of leaves until obviously toward harvest. I was just reading on liquid seaweed and silica stuff and figured that would be a good addition if anything.
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FFOF has enough nutrients in it to last about a month. If you want it to last longer than that then you are going to need to amend it and/or use very large pots. I'm doing an organic grow right now and I was advised to use 10 gallon pots for each plant, to make sure the soil provides enough nutrition, by people here and the guy who runs the local organic shop. It should also have plenty of calcium and magnesium in the soil.
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
I agree, FFOF usually runs low on food in about a month depending on pot size/plant species. After that , your going to need more food or new soil to plant into. You wont need any extra cal or mag once you figure out a good diet to feed them. If your wanting to go all organic then your going to want to premix your soil with amendments (mycorrizae is an example of a good amendment but it has no nutrition in it.) Or you might be able to find good liquid organic food but your getting into knowledge now. Growing anything 100% "organic" requires more skill then any other method of growing due to the lack of knowing exactly whats in your soil.

To answer your question roughly: Yes it is ok to add silica and or seaweed to your plant. Those two are both fairly weak in plant nutritiion but very good for amending soil and helping your plant in general.
I would use what you already have on hand with the advanced 3 part. That shit is expensive snake oil but its still good food. nothing against it but the price. Use it at a very low dose and you cant go wrong. Example: If it says "general feeding=5ml per gallon" Then mix 2ml per gallon and do that every other watering till she wants more. There are a lot of folks here who have experience with almost every food line on the market , so someone will chime in an give you a more exact measurement to use for that particular food brand.
 
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Chanceman1405

Member
It’s the only one I saw enough feedback on and felt safe to buy general hydro I heard was garbage. Who would you suggest for future reference. I’m only not doing nutes or steering clear of them until I’m a better grower. Just don’t wanna get them.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
A simple bagged dry fertilizer will work instead of the bottles with cartoons on them.

Powdered Nutes :

Better shelf life
No product separation in solution
easy to measure
No buying mostly water in colorful bottles.

Not sure why the hesitation on using Nutes. But there are simple amendments to common bagged potting soil that will carry plant without medium depletion. Bagged soils like FFOF , can be made better with simple add ons like EWC , More Perlite and a scoop of myco.
Plants are more interested in what it’s host medium can provide OVER what you dump from a bottle.
 
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Chanceman1405

Member
Budzbuddha said:
A simple bagged dry fertilizer will work instead of the bottles with cartoons on them.

Powdered Nutes :

Better shelf life
No product separation in solution
easy to measure
No buying mostly water in colorful bottles.

Not sure why the hesitation on using Nutes. But there are simple amendments to common bagged potting soil that will carry plant without medium depletion. Bagged soils like FFOF , can be made better with simple add ons like EWC , More Perlite and a scoop of myco.
Plants are more interested in what it’s host medium can provide OVER what you dump from a bottle.
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My first grow and was just told nutes will fry and mostly not needed for FFOF. What is EWC and what brands would you recommend for the dry compounds. I just didn’t wanna get or over do it my first go.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Since FFOF can carry most of the initial grow ( most strains ) for about 5-6 weeks , most of the initial veg has been met.
Rarely have I had to recharge it BEFORE Veg was done. Most plants will begin to show sex between week 5 -7 and is an indicator that you can move it to flower ....... you want bigger plants ? .... run veg up to 8 weeks ... especially when filling out a good scrog net.

Recharge FFOF :
a simple top dress of same FFOF added to top soil watered in or cheese cloth bag bubbled in container overnight for a potent
tea / soil drench.

or Dry fert use with any of those I listed. The soil top dress of FFOF is the “ simplest “ , due to plant already acclimated to it and there is no threat of overfeeding. For Dry Fertilizer: In 3 gallon grows , I add 1 teaSpoon scratched into topsoil and watered in. EWC is earth worm castings ... a valuable soil supplement. Myco is the microbial elements , they are important to converting the elements in soil to be available for the plant to uptake. A happy , living soil trumps ANY thing from a bottle. I add more myco during veg to crank up the growth. KELP / Kelp meal is another fantastic add to either soil blend or simply watered in.

I add KELP during flower for boost INSTEAD of synthetic boosters ..... like beastie or koolbloom.

I recharge again AFTER stretch and final setup of flowers ..... ( early flower ) , then again around week 4 of flower ( mid flower ) and lastly week 6/7 for last .... then at final weeks kelp water to harvest. Cleaner harvest at end , no overfeeding , no flushing bullshit .

Keep shit simple is my mantra.
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Chanceman1405 said:
I’m gonna have to write this all down haha
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yes , please do . Budz knows exactly what he is talkin about. You got a couple great folks on your thread. You can get away with anything with them helping you. You are NOT going to hurt them girls by adding a smidge of food. You can wait till the soil is completely out of food but by then you'll have done posted 20 more times talking about yellow ,. crispy leaves. The guys on this forum know WAAAAAAY more about FFOF then any hydro store owner. im 100% on that one.
 
quirk

quirk

Well-Known Member
I use liquid seaweed and molasses on indoor cannabis and outdoor fruit and veggies, not as nutrition, but a foliar spray once a week throughout grow, to strengthen foliage which protects against insects, fungus, mold and to increase brix. Healthy plants and soil don't attract problems. Growing 101.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
quirk said:
I use liquid seaweed and molasses on indoor cannabis and outdoor fruit and veggies, not as nutrition, but a foliar spray once a week throughout grow, to strengthen foliage which protects against insects, fungus, mold and to increase brix. Healthy plants and soil don't attract problems. Growing 101.
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Many people seem to think that cannabis is some kind of special plant that requires special products to grow. The same stuff you use to grow vegetables, flowers, houseplants, etc... is all you need for cannabis. The same methods apply to cannabis as well as other plants. Too many people get caught up in all the cannabis specific nonsense and despite using everything but the kitchen sink on their plants end up with unhealthy plants and poor harvests. I believe in treating it like any other plant I grow. That's all that's needed.
 
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Chanceman1405

Member
I believe that too, but at the same time to get get highest possible THC content I think it could be a little more in depth. Obviously genetics play a role, but i think this with anything in life. I used to brew steroids, and a lot depended on your ratios and carrier oils on the quality. At the end of the day 250mg is 250mg. But some hurt more than others and in long run health of the human using is also considered. This was awhile back in my youth though. On to more natural things.
 
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