bodhi seeds

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AdvancedBuffalo

Well-Known Member
GreenHighlander said:
Amazing looking flowers !!! Was just asking about the full plants as that peach sounds interesting and wanted an idea of plant structure , growth , and such.

Cheers :)
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Oh i didn’t know you were referring to peach HP. Lucky for you the Clusterfunk in front of her decided to identify as a boy so... The obstruction was cleared. Hah. Structure is fantastic on her. I will get her to stack tighter next run.
 
NukaKola

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
seedy character said:
It may be inorganic, but potassium bicarbonate works, and can be used throughout flower. Chemical, yes. Toxic, no. Whenever milk solution doesn't knock it out, I switch to this. Usually within 3 days of application I douse with H2O2 solution. This rinses off the soda's residue and provides another knock out punch to PM. If you're indoor and this keeps happening, it might be good to burn sulfur in your area before your next flower cycle.
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What dilution rate do you use for the potassium bicarbonate?

I tried 1TBSP/gallon which was recommended online with 1TSP of soap and the plants did not like it at all. Burnt tips and yellowing.

Contemplating ordering some Regalia.
 
Thefarmer12

Thefarmer12

Well-Known Member
bigbuff said:
you were super nice when i talked to you! thanks for creating F2s for this amazing strain.
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All good my friend. And to answer your question from your previous post the lucky charms f2 freebies are indeed legit. :D Made them from an original pack from Bodhi I had in the fridge still have the empty pack for sentimental sake. Used two different lucky charms moms for the f2's - both caked and some of the fiercest smelling plants I've ever had the pleasure of working with. The LC dad in the f2's is the same I use for my actual crosses I sell. He's no slouch either.
 
S

seedy character

Well-Known Member
NukaKola said:
What dilution rate do you use for the potassium bicarbonate?

I tried 1TBSP/gallon which was recommended online with 1TSP of soap and the plants did not like it at all. Burnt tips and yellowing.

Contemplating ordering some Regalia.
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Thats a good rate. When using soda or wettable sulfur(more effective but only in veg) don't use soap. Think of the solution as already emulsified. Whats most important is to spray an atomized type mist. This is so that as the water dries it leaves a fine dusting of powder. This layer of alkaline powder interrupts fungal respiration. The PM spores will still be there, just no longer viable. After a few days its safe to rinse the powder off, or if outside don't bother. Don't really see how this, even with soap, would yellow leaves and burn tips. That sounds like a combo of low mag & P. Never had an adverse reaction on any production type plant. Melon & squash seem to really enjoy it after bud set. If, in fact, this application is whats causing nutrient lockout then you are likely having absorption issues not readily noticeable. A healthy plant will respond positively to transpiration returning to normal as the PM dies off.
 
colocowboy

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
You can burn too, veg only, that way you don’t introduce water and still leaves a nice thin layer that prevents. It’s messy and your area ends up smelling like a fart all the time when you do a burn but it’s very effective.
 
Green pantsuit

Green pantsuit

Well-Known Member
colocowboy said:
Follow up the h2O2 with copper fungicide, it’s not a chemical per se but can be toxic. Don’t be liberal with it, put on a cloth and hand mop the leaves lightly after lights out. Only use a damp cloth and avoid spilling. It will protect/control at a tissue level.
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copper fungicide used on filbert orchards often causes more harm than help. Things to consider.
 
colocowboy

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Green pantsuit said:
copper fungicide used on filbert orchards often causes more harm than help. Things to consider.
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filbert nuts? Just curious?
I’m not saying it because I read an article that was semi related, it’s an old school technique that works, among many other techniques. I don’t see anybody offering this gentleman protective measures, cleaning it off as one thing but you have to protect it, especially because p.m. gets entrenched at the tissue level. There are always risks to mitigating problems, aren’t you always supposed to weigh the risk versus the reward? While milk is ok, it’s far from the most effective technique.
I use another apparently highly controversial technique, colloidal silver will kill the pm and provide a protective barrier also. You can be more liberal with it but it’s more expensive.
 
Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
I hit my outdoor plant with Neem oil at the first sight of PM and it seems to have cleared up. It's supposed to be organic and says on the label that it can be used all the way up to harvest, which I'm not too keen on. Hopefully I won't have to
 
G

Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
I hit my outdoor plant with Neem oil at the first sight of PM and it seems to have cleared up. It's supposed to be organic and says on the label that it can be used all the way up to harvest, which I'm not too keen on. Hopefully I won't have to
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I wouldn’t use neem on flowering plants much past couple weeks into flower set. I used it first time growing outdoors 3 weeks before chop and the flowers reeked of neem even after drying.
 
MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
colocowboy said:
filbert nuts? Just curious?
I’m not saying it because I read an article that was semi related, it’s an old school technique that works, among many other techniques. I don’t see anybody offering this gentleman protective measures, cleaning it off as one thing but you have to protect it, especially because p.m. gets entrenched at the tissue level. There are always risks to mitigating problems, aren’t you always supposed to weigh the risk versus the reward? While milk is ok, it’s far from the most effective technique.
I use another apparently highly controversial technique, colloidal silver will kill the pm and provide a protective barrier also. You can be more liberal with it but it’s more expensive.
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Just a tid bit from my limited experience with copper based biocides. It is highly toxic to 99% of living organisms. It is absorbed by plants and you will be ingesting it no matter what you wash it off with. I highly advise not using it. We ingest TOO MANY residual poisons as is. The colloidial silver is the same. I would only use it for feminization. Discarding entire plant and only keeping the seeds.

You are entitled to do you wish. Yet you are very wrong if you are feeding others toxins without their knowledge. Be safe and work to make the world cleaner. Organics health to all.
 
MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Here is my shameful PM issue ATM. GG4 4-5 weeks into flower. 5 days since foliar application of 2 Tbsp/gal. 2 days since adding to feed at same rate. PM is dying. I am actually seeing something work on it. And safely with time to finish with consumable goods. Nothing else worked. I think it has mutated. Neem has no effect this year.

I will be spraying with my small Graco airless paint pump for better atomization and coverage than my sprayer. Wear a real respirator if trying this. Creates a cold dense fog that is unavoidable.

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MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
MICHI-CAN said:
Here is my shameful PM issue ATM. GG4 4-5 weeks into flower. 5 days since foliar application of 2 Tbsp/gal. 2 days since adding to feed at same rate. PM is dying. I am actually seeing something work on it. And safely with time to finish with consumable goods. Nothing else worked. I think it has mutated. Neem has no effect this year.

I will be spraying with my small Graco airless paint pump for better atomization and coverage than my sprayer. Wear a real respirator if trying this. Creates a cold dense fog that is unavoidable.

View attachment 4686525
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I'm an idiot. Using Regalia CG.. Hope we are smiling now.
 
Green pantsuit

Green pantsuit

Well-Known Member
colocowboy said:
filbert nuts? Just curious?
I’m not saying it because I read an article that was semi related, it’s an old school technique that works, among many other techniques. I don’t see anybody offering this gentleman protective measures, cleaning it off as one thing but you have to protect it, especially because p.m. gets entrenched at the tissue level. There are always risks to mitigating problems, aren’t you always supposed to weigh the risk versus the reward? While milk is ok, it’s far from the most effective technique.
I use another apparently highly controversial technique, colloidal silver will kill the pm and provide a protective barrier also. You can be more liberal with it but it’s more expensive.
Click to expand...
Neem oil with silica used as an emulsifier is quite effective. The silica is super basic, so the high pH helps in conjunction with the antifungal properties of neem, plus the added benefit of thicker cell walls from the silica. I have found the best control by inoculating with foliar probiotics such as Forge. I also like to foliar regularly with this Soil Provide product. The idea is having enough beneficial microbial life in the phyllosphere that pathogens will be outcompeted.
 
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