DIY Design- First Build (input welcome)

[SpawnOfVader]

I'm about a month out from having the budget for my DIY bloom build and I'm looking to finalize my design/start ordering a few parts here and there as I have the $$. Planning on using these 44" samsung F strips (could be persuaded to change based on pricing BUT I like how condensed these LED strips are).

SI-B8V521B20WW
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V521B20WW/6624009?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMoEkC0AhAHANQKxgIwrAAYB1YkAXQF8g

Since I'm going to be using this exclusively for late veg/flowering I'm thinking an even mix of 3 and 3.5k strips w/ supplemental Red/far red strips like these ones... I'd rather find a local source but I haven't found a comparable strip in the US yet..
https://www.cutter.com.au/product/ssk-1560-730660/

I still need to doing a sketch up of the design but I'm planning on 3x 4.85"w (46"l) heat sinks going lengthwise. Each one will have 1x 3k, 3.5k, and Red supplemental strip.
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

Standard HLG-480H-48A driver.

Looks like about 750 including shipping unless a deal pops up in the next month.
342 Vf total on the strips.

Open to other suggestions for supplemental Red/far red/IR type strips. I looked at the HLG boards but the supplemental reds are almost never in stock.

I should note that right now I'm flowering in a 4x4 but might be moving that up to a 5x5 over the winter

Each strip will only have like .3" space from the next one on the heat sink... I could go wider but the next sizes up start to JUMP in price.

My rough estimate w/tax/shipping/etc. comes out around $750....so it's up around the same price as an HLG 550. Am I making this too overkill?

 

[NukaKola]

Why not get the double row strips? Link

Then you would only need 1/2 as many heatsinks which would cut down cost.

I’m all about DIY but at that price I would be very tempted to go with Timbers Cypress 8. It’s 15% off right now. 725w for $850 is quite a steal. I believe it uses the same F series strips you linked with the LM561C diodes. It will also be right around 30w sq ft if you decided to flower in a 5x5. Link

Either route you go you can add some red/far fed supplemental strips from Alibaba. Link

 

[Boatguy]

I'm about a month out from having the budget for my DIY bloom build and I'm looking to finalize my design/start ordering a few parts here and there as I have the $$. Planning on using these 44" samsung F strips (could be persuaded to change based on pricing BUT I like how condensed these LED strips are).

SI-B8V521B20WW
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V521B20WW/6624009?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMoEkC0AhAHANQKxgIwrAAYB1YkAXQF8g

Since I'm going to be using this exclusively for late veg/flowering I'm thinking an even mix of 3 and 3.5k strips w/ supplemental Red/far red strips like these ones... I'd rather find a local source but I haven't found a comparable strip in the US yet..
https://www.cutter.com.au/product/ssk-1560-730660/

I still need to doing a sketch up of the design but I'm planning on 3x 4.85"w (46"l) heat sinks going lengthwise. Each one will have 1x 3k, 3.5k, and Red supplemental strip.
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

Standard HLG-480H-48A driver.

Looks like about 750 including shipping unless a deal pops up in the next month.
342 Vf total on the strips.

Open to other suggestions for supplemental Red/far red/IR type strips. I looked at the HLG boards but the supplemental reds are almost never in stock.

I should note that right now I'm flowering in a 4x4 but might be moving that up to a 5x5 over the winter

Each strip will only have like .3" space from the next one on the heat sink... I could go wider but the next sizes up start to JUMP in price.

My rough estimate w/tax/shipping/etc. comes out around $750....so it's up around the same price as an HLG 550. Am I making this too overkill?

From scratch, you should be able to build a kick ass light for under $1 a watt. Not worth it to build you own otherwise, unless you just want your own thing

 

[Rocket Soul]

I'm about a month out from having the budget for my DIY bloom build and I'm looking to finalize my design/start ordering a few parts here and there as I have the $$. Planning on using these 44" samsung F strips (could be persuaded to change based on pricing BUT I like how condensed these LED strips are).

SI-B8V521B20WW
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/samsung-semiconductor-inc/SI-B8V521B20WW/6624009?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMoEkC0AhAHANQKxgIwrAAYB1YkAXQF8g

Since I'm going to be using this exclusively for late veg/flowering I'm thinking an even mix of 3 and 3.5k strips w/ supplemental Red/far red strips like these ones... I'd rather find a local source but I haven't found a comparable strip in the US yet..
https://www.cutter.com.au/product/ssk-1560-730660/

I still need to doing a sketch up of the design but I'm planning on 3x 4.85"w (46"l) heat sinks going lengthwise. Each one will have 1x 3k, 3.5k, and Red supplemental strip.
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-850-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/

Standard HLG-480H-48A driver.

Looks like about 750 including shipping unless a deal pops up in the next month.
342 Vf total on the strips.

Open to other suggestions for supplemental Red/far red/IR type strips. I looked at the HLG boards but the supplemental reds are almost never in stock.

I should note that right now I'm flowering in a 4x4 but might be moving that up to a 5x5 over the winter

Each strip will only have like .3" space from the next one on the heat sink... I could go wider but the next sizes up start to JUMP in price.

My rough estimate w/tax/shipping/etc. comes out around $750....so it's up around the same price as an HLG 550. Am I making this too overkill?

Have you looked into alternative heatsinking? Straight up alu u-channel works fine. That sinking is.really expensive in comparison. Id think twice of diying if this is what it would cost to do sinking.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Have you looked into alternative heatsinking? Straight up alu u-channel works fine. That sinking is.really expensive in comparison. Id think twice of diying if this is what it would cost to do sinking.

I thought about it but I was nervous on whether nor not aluminum channel/angle/flat bar would be efficient enough in cooling.

Where are you getting your U channeling? Just shopping around online and for channel big enough to fit the lights there doesn't seem to be much price difference (those strips are 44.1"x1.57"... so I'd need U channel with at least 1.75" width.... those run 15-20 each for 4' sections and it would be one per for the 6 lights (assuming I cut out the reds altogether).... it would be $40 less is all (since the heatsink can fit 2x strips side by side PLUS the reds if I keep them).

Why not get the double row strips? Link

Then you would only need 1/2 as many heatsinks which would cut down cost.

I’m all about DIY but at that price I would be very tempted to go with Timbers Cypress 8. It’s 15% off right now. 725w for $850 is quite a steal. I believe it uses the same F series strips you linked with the LM561C diodes. It will also be right around 30w sq ft if you decided to flower in a 5x5. Link

Either route you go you can add some red/far fed supplemental strips from Alibaba. Link

Those do look sweet, I find it odd that their "rating" for both their Cypress 6 and Cypress 8 is a 4x4 flowering or 6x6 veg. As you said, the Cypress 8 is pumping enough wattage to power a 5x5 for flower @ just under 25 watts/sq ft.

Budget wise the Cypress 8 would be pushing it but the Cypress 6 is basically identical to what I'm looking to build here except they use the single row instead of the doubled up strips and it's slightly more expensive that what I could do that for....

So what it comes down to is do I really think I can outbuild a Timber light lol... I did notice that they ONLY use the Samsung strips...am I behind on the trends- is adding supplemental REDs not a thing anymore?

Super quick math, if I take out the reds, switch from the heat sink to individual U channels (or angle aluminum/bar/something like that..... I can drop the build by ~150 or so....my total price would be in the ~600 range for a build that is functionally better than the Timber Cypress 6 (same power from the driver, but using 6 of the doubled up strips instead of 6 of the single layer...should run more efficient/cooler... still within the Vf requirements)


This is basically identical to the LEDGardener design for a 4x4 with F strips except two extra strips (I'd rather it run more efficient/cooler even if it adds ~100 extra to the build between strips and U Channel to mount it).

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Also not artificially add gravitas to this thread BUT I just noticed I missed a 0 in my budget for this paycheck (in my favor) meaning I have enough $$$ to order parts (or a light if I go that way) on Friday.

That would probably disqualify me from the Mars Hydro cup (switching out my Mars Hydro light in the middle of the contest) BUT as I'm the only RIU person even on the board and that's too low to get anything other than a 5% off coupon it's whatever lol. (I'm at almost 3k views and in 10th place [top person from RIU though] and the 1st place person is a youtuber with 48K)

 

[SpawnOfVader]

From scratch, you should be able to build a kick ass light for under $1 a watt. Not worth it to build you own otherwise, unless you just want your own thing

It's a little of column A, little of B... I need more lighting and I'd rather do it for cheaper if I can.

I also need to keep myself busy for sanity reasons (WFH since March) and I love to overengineer projects.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I thought about it but I was nervous on whether nor not aluminum channel/angle/flat bar would be efficient enough in cooling.

Where are you getting your U channeling? Just shopping around online and for channel big enough to fit the lights there doesn't seem to be much price difference (those strips are 44.1"x1.57"... so I'd need U channel with at least 1.75" width.... those run 15-20 each for 4' sections and it would be one per for the 6 lights (assuming I cut out the reds altogether).... it would be $40 less is all (since the heat since can fit 2x strips side by side PLUS the reds if I keep them).



Those do look sweet, I find it odd that their "rating" for both their Cypress 6 and Cypress 8 is a 4x4 flowering or 6x6 veg. As you said, the Cypress 8 is pumping enough wattage to power a 5x5 for flower @ just under 25 watts/sq ft.

Budget wise the Cypress 8 would be pushing it but the Cypress 6 is basically identical to what I'm looking to build here (same strips, approximate wattage, etc) and even with shipping/tax it's not much more expensive than my proposed build....

So what it comes down to is do I really think I can outbuild a Timber light lol... I did notice that they ONLY use the Samsung strips...am I behind on the trends- is adding supplemental REDs not a thing anymore?

Super quick math, if I take out the reds, switch from the heat sink to individual U channels (or angle aluminum/bar/something like that..... I can drop the build by ~150 or so....my total price would be in the ~600 range for a build that is functionally better than the Timber Cypress 6 (same power from the driver, but using 6 of the doubled up strips instead of 6 of the single layer...should run more efficient/cooler... still within the Vf requirements)


This is basically identical to the LEDGardener design for a 4x4 with F strips except two extra strips (I'd rather it run more efficient/cooler even if it adds ~100 extra to the build between strips and U Channel to mount it).

Id stop looking online and go to yellowpages, check out where local builders source alu profiles. Get them cut to size. Online your getting shafted, and then shipping etc.
Around here i pay about 4$ per m, thats 5 for 4feet, cut at length.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Id stop looking online and go to yellowpages, check out where local builders source alu profiles. Get them cut to size. Online your getting shafted, and then shipping etc.
Around here i pay about 4$ per m, thats 5 for 4feet, cut at length.

Solid advice, at a quick search such a business does exist lol

https://tulsaaluminum.com/

Can't get pricing until tomorrow but that's whatever...I wonder how expensive it would be to get something like 40-4040 series with one slotted side. That looks to be all the Cypress 6/8 are built on at a glance, looks CLEAN.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Last time i used 40x40mm u- channel 2mm thick. That should be good for about 40w per 2 foot section
.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Last time i used 40x40mm u- channel 2mm thick. That should be good for about 40w per 2 foot section
.

I'd be running 6x 4' sections (not even counting the frame material) so assuming that scales with section length for my max power of 480w that's dead on. That's what you got for that cheap locally?

 

[Rocket Soul]

Yes, but im in spain. Id go for more bars than 6 if you can, especially if you need to fit various strips. I prefer screwing the strips to place unless you have some serious selfadhesive, like 3M

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Yes, but im in spain. Id go for more bars than 6 if you can, especially if you need to fit various strips. I prefer screwing the strips to place unless you have some serious selfadhesive, like 3M

Based on this convo/my available funds. What I'll probably do is build just the basic light- 6 of the double layer F strips for now and keep the price down. Later on I can add supplemental lighting via strips/COBs/whatever with some minor reconfiguration. I'll probably take it for one full run as-is just to see what it can do. Should be able to do a build like that for 450-500+shipping which is decent enough.

Planned on the self adhesive heatsink tape from 3M or something similar.

I'm in the US so the closest standard size at least large enough for those lights in the aluminum U channel is actually 1.75"w...so I'd have at most .28" to put in screws to support the strips.... depending on pricing I could probably get 2" U channel and have PLENTY of space to reinforce the mounting.

 

[Rocket Soul]

2" is prob best. Also remember you can go even higher and do 2x double strip, its what we did with vesta strips,2 wide per heatsink. Screwing is definitely superior, but dont over do on tightness, enough to use you wrist, you dont need all the force in yiur bosy as this may damage or lift the strip.
My recommendation is to allways build better than what you can see in the shop: if hlg uses the equivalent of 4 bars, use at least 6, even better 8, or double up your strips per heatsink. Everybody runs these quite hard, i prefer to run much softer

 

[SpawnOfVader]

2" is prob best. Also remember you can go even higher and do 2x double strip, its what we did with vesta strips,2 wide per heatsink. Screwing is definitely superior, but dont over do on tightness, enough to use you wrist, you dont need all the force in yiur bosy as this may damage or lift the strip.
My recommendation is to allways build better than what you can see in the shop: if hlg uses the equivalent of 4 bars, use at least 6, even better 8, or double up your strips per heatsink. Everybody runs these quite hard, i prefer to run much softer

And physics wise you're dead on (I'm an engineer by education, IT dude by trade so I OVERENGINEER THE F OUT OF PROJECTS)... but in this case the lower load/more you can disperse the load across additional strips it will reduce the operating temp and increase the efficiency. It does add initial cost but that's negligible in the lifetime of an appliance.

So my design is 6x double strips (the two rows of LEDs not two separate strips). LEDGardener recommends 4x double strips, the Timber strip build uses 6x single strips for 480W so I'm using roughly twice the diodes of the Timber Cypress 6 and 50% over the "standard" DIY design (still well within my Vf mins though [276 without reds])... I do love having an apples to apples type comparison for an off-the-shelf unit with the EXACT strips/diodes I want to use for DIY.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

2" is prob best. Also remember you can go even higher and do 2x double strip, its what we did with vesta strips,2 wide per heatsink. Screwing is definitely superior, but dont over do on tightness, enough to use you wrist, you dont need all the force in yiur bosy as this may damage or lift the strip.
My recommendation is to allways build better than what you can see in the shop: if hlg uses the equivalent of 4 bars, use at least 6, even better 8, or double up your strips per heatsink. Everybody runs these quite hard, i prefer to run much softer

My big question after looking this over one more time is- does U channel really provide any additional heatsink value vs aluminum bar stock? It's not exactly an efficient heatsink design....there is definitely some extra value for stability for sure.

 

[NukaKola]

Another option is to run Bridgelux EB gen 2 strips. They are only ~$8.50 so you can double up on strips and run them soft so they don’t need heatsinks. This will also give you better light spread and allow them to be placed closer to the canopy. Should end up being considerably cheaper as well.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

Another option is to run Bridgelux EB gen 2 strips. They are only ~$8.50 so you can double up on strips and run them soft so they don’t need heatsinks. This will also give you better light spread and allow them to be placed closer to the canopy. Should end up being considerably cheaper as well.

Definitely worth considering! I'd have to go with a bigger U channel if I went with those 2 wide since they're almost exactly 1" each (assuming I want to screw them in...otherwise I could use some strong adhesive and they'd sit almost touching. But it looks like ~12-14 of those would be an equivalent build so it might not require extra heatsink.

 

[NukaKola]

Definitely worth considering! I'd have to go with a bigger U channel if I went with those 2 wide since they're almost exactly 1" each (assuming I want to screw them in...otherwise I could use some strong adhesive and they'd sit almost touching. But it looks like ~12-14 of those would be an equivalent build so it might not require extra heatsink.

I would just use some angle to build a frame with 2-3 cross beams for support and use some thermal tape. You don’t need to have backing on the entire strips since they don’t require heatsink if you run them soft.

 

[SpawnOfVader]

I would just use some angle to build a frame with 2-3 cross beams for support and use some thermal tape. You don’t need to have backing on the entire strips since they don’t require heatsink if you run them soft.

Well I just realized that they don't make the doubled up F strip in 3500K, only the 3k and 4k.....

I still want a decent mix of 3 and 3.5 so if I go F strip I'll need to do 3x 3000K double strips and 4x 3500k single strips doubled up.

Still 25% more of the same diodes as used in the comprable LEDGardener designs or 66% more than the cypress for the same wattage so fairly cool/spread out.

Also that would be down around $500 + shipping for ~480-500W so getting there on cost vs. output....