Blue dream tops of the buds issue identification

[xtsho]

Thank you guys.

Untill now I got the answers:

No issue, genetics.
Low ph issue (previous post)
Cold temp.
Too much nutes (too much PK values)
Not enough nutes (starving)


All from well known members...
What a noob like me can do with all those great answers, that contradict each other...

Yes it can be confusing when you get different answers. At 35 days into flower your leaves should not be going yellow and purple which is why I said it's a nutrient issue.

From what you have said you're feeding, the NPK ratio is off. You also didn't mention what EC you're feeding at. Overfeeding can cause nutrient antagonism resulting in some nutrients being locked out. That can resemble a deficiency but isn't caused by a lack of nutrients but rather an imbalance in nutrients or too much of one nutrient. There are burnt tips on the leaves which seems to lead to not a lack of nutrients just not a mix of the right ones and too hot of a feed.

For flowering you're NPK seems rather high in nitrogen and low in phosphorus.

4-0-0
7-3-6
0-1-3

 

[Dontjudgeme]

Yes it can be confusing when you get different answers. At 35 days into flower your leaves should not be going yellow and purple which is why I said it's a nutrient issue.

From what you have said you're feeding, the NPK ratio is off. You also didn't mention what EC you're feeding at. Overfeeding can cause nutrient antagonism resulting in some nutrients being locked out. That can resemble a deficiency but isn't caused by a lack of nutrients but rather an imbalance in nutrients or too much of one nutrient. There are burnt tips on the leaves which seems to lead to not a lack of nutrients just not a mix of the right ones and too hot of a feed.

For flowering you're NPK seems rather high in nitrogen and low in phosphorus.

4-0-0
7-3-6
0-1-3

Took the words right out of my mouth. Had those NPK ratios been given earlier, I definitely wouldn’t have landed on strain being the reason for purpling. While strain can be the cause for color changes, those NPK ratios are pretty evident of the problem.

 

[WeedLover487]

Thanks.

I am using bio nova mix that suppose to be for all veg + flower life, and added big bud 2 weeks after flip.
Those are the instructions.
I was not aware that it doesn't cover all (as it said) and I need to change the ratio...

Can I do it without switching / adding another nutrient?

And do I need to count the Cal mag 4-0-0?
I thought its only cal-mag addition but now I see that if I do count it I get ratio of:

Include the calmag 11:4:9
Without the calmag is 7:4:9

I guess its low on P and I read that its recommenced to go with 4:8:4 ratio during flowering...

I have no choice to add another nutrition to change ratio as I see it...

Any recommendation of advance nutrition or bio nova product?

Thanks!

 

[WeedLover487]

I am thinking about moving from bio nova super mix soil ( 7-3-6) to nova pk (0-13-14)

So all together I will have


0-13-14 (pk)
4-0-0 (clamag)
0-1-3 (big bud)

4-14-17

Will it work?

* since it tap water than no need in calmag every watering
** I can also use less big bud, every second watering

 

[Dontjudgeme]

I am thinking about moving from bio nova super mix soil ( 7-3-6) to nova pk (0-13-14)

So all together I will have


0-13-14 (pk)
4-0-0 (clamag)
0-1-3 (big bud)

4-14-17

Will it work?

* since it tap water than no need in calmag every watering
** I can also use less big bud, every second watering

4-14-17 is similar to what I run. I run 4-16-17. I do however run dry organic amendments, supplemented with kelp and guano to boost my P and K because my dry amendments don’t supply enough of either. This is why I personally don’t like soil that has nutrients in it. You can’t control what you feed. I’m strictly promix HP. Dry amendments take a little bit for the nutrients to become available, so I use liquid nutrients for the first week or 2 until the amendments break down and start to feed the roots over time. Soil that has nutrients in it pretty much work the same way, only difference is the NPK ratios are locked in, opposed to dry amendments, you have a little more control. This is why I found it easier to grow with feeding liquid nutrients, it’s quickly available to the plant, and you can make adjustments/corrections on the fly, vs soil with nutrients in it, you have to wait for the plant to take what’s in the soil. I’ve ran into way more issues growing with amendments vs bottle feeding, but my wife likes the taste of the organic grows compared to the bottle feeding, and she’s the only reason I grow.

 

[SnoopyDoo]

I did exactly the oposite, I tought that I have deficiency and I should give more....

I am feeding with:

Cal mag extra NPK 4-0-0
https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Sensi-Cal-Mag-Nutrient/dp/B00P8EVEHG/

Bio Nova soil super mix - NPK 7-3-6
Amazon.com : Bio Nova BNSSM5L Soil SuperMix Liquid Fertilizer, 5 Liters : Garden & Outdoor

Big Bud - NPK 0-1-3
https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Liquid-Fertilizer-1-Liter/dp/B001GBOAQC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Advanced+Nutrients+Big+Bud&qid=1588160569&sr=8-1&th=1

If you're just using Big Bud as your bloom booster, then maybe it is underfed. I was referring bloom boosters like Kool Bloom Dry with PK #s in the 30s, 40s, 50s.....

Nevertheless, I've seen similar results when using bloom boosters - the lower yielding plants can't take as much PK. Given your feeding schedule, I'm not sure it that's what's happening in your case.

 

[SnoopyDoo]

Thank you guys.

Untill now I got the answers:

No issue, genetics.
Low ph issue (previous post)
Cold temp.
Too much nutes (too much PK values)
Not enough nutes (starving)


All from well known members...
What a noob like me can do with all those great answers, that contradict each other...

It's not easy. I've been doing this a while and still run into issues. Recently I flushed thinking I had a lock out - the plants didn't like that at all since it was deficiency, but at least it was pretty apparent after the flush. Do you know your EC? Are you using the lower or upper range of the recommended dose? How often are you feeding the soil?

As somebody else mentioned switching from soil to ProMix can simplify things because you just don't know what and how much nutes are in the soil....

 

[WeedLover487]

4-14-17 is similar to what I run. I run 4-16-17. I do however run dry organic amendments, supplemented with kelp and guano to boost my P and K because my dry amendments don’t supply enough of either. This is why I personally don’t like soil that has nutrients in it. You can’t control what you feed. I’m strictly promix HP. Dry amendments take a little bit for the nutrients to become available, so I use liquid nutrients for the first week or 2 until the amendments break down and start to feed the roots over time. Soil that has nutrients in it pretty much work the same way, only difference is the NPK ratios are locked in, opposed to dry amendments, you have a little more control. This is why I found it easier to grow with feeding liquid nutrients, it’s quickly available to the plant, and you can make adjustments/corrections on the fly, vs soil with nutrients in it, you have to wait for the plant to take what’s in the soil. I’ve ran into way more issues growing with amendments vs bottle feeding, but my wife likes the taste of the organic grows compared to the bottle feeding, and she’s the only reason I grow.

I tried clean soil before. all my seedling died and I didn't know why.. 3 times.
Only after I switched to soil from the nursery I got the seedling to survive...
Lets say that clean soil is not for beginners. you need to know exactly how to feed.
But that is a good idea for the next time.

Anyway I learned about my feedin NPK mistake from this post, that is very good. thanks.

 

[WeedLover487]

If you're just using Big Bud as your bloom booster, then maybe it is underfed. I was referring bloom boosters like Kool Bloom Dry with PK #s in the 30s, 40s, 50s.....

Nevertheless, I've seen similar results when using bloom boosters - the lower yielding plants can't take as much PK. Given your feeding schedule, I'm not sure it that's what's happening in your case.

Its all cause a bad advice I got from the seller at the shop.. he said go with nova mix & big bud all the way no need in another thing.
But I see now that what good for one strain, will not be good to another..

I will bring nova PK today.

 

[WeedLover487]

It's not easy. I've been doing this a while and still run into issues. Recently I flushed thinking I had a lock out - the plants didn't like that at all since it was deficiency, but at least it was pretty apparent after the flush. Do you know your EC? Are you using the lower or upper range of the recommended dose? How often are you feeding the soil?

As somebody else mentioned switching from soil to ProMix can simplify things because you just don't know what and how much nutes are in the soil....

Yes, maybe next time.
I am not testing EC.
I know it had different opinions, but most of them saying for soil it can be avoided.
At list for this grow I will pass.
Thanks.

 

[Kushash]

Yes, maybe next time.
I am not testing EC.
I know it had different opinions, but most of them saying for soil it can be avoided.
At list for this grow I will pass.
Thanks.

I'm not sure if I am reading this correctly.
If you are saying people have told you, you need not know the EC or PPMs of the water after you added nutes then you are listening to the wrong people.

Knowing the EC of water after adding nutes is very important, especially for new growers.

 

[19-Sean-86]

Looks like molybdenum deficiency to me. I grew a Seedsman blue dream before and it didn't look like yours.

 

[Budz Buddy]

Are you referring to the purpling ? I make my plants do that on purpose by keeping my temps 68 - 72 F during Flower. Cold Temps will produce more Terpenes & Trichs to protect itself from the cold. More Terpene & Trich production makes better weed. Are you going by room temp or using a laser thermometer & going by leaf temp ? My leaf temps are usually about 10 degrees F lower than my room temp. The temp at the canopy matters most.

 

[Budz Buddy]

Heres one of the 1st images that pops up when I googled blue dream seedsView attachment 4797616

Looks heat or light stressed.

 

[WeedLover487]

I'm not sure if I am reading this correctly.
If you are saying people have told you, you need not know the EC or PPMs of the water after you added nutes then you are listening to the wrong people.

Knowing the EC of water after adding nutes is very important, especially for new growers.

Yes.
100% of the ppl I know that grow in soil are not testing EC.
In my country almost none of them also test ph, no need with our tap water, but I do.
Most of the sites that I read also says its a must for hydro, not for soil...

I am sure I will get benefits from it, maybe next grow I will learn more about it.
Thanks

 

[WeedLover487]

Looks like molybdenum deficiency to me. I grew a Seedsman blue dream before and it didn't look like yours.

I thought so too, this is the closest deficiency in its look, but most of the opinion here says otherwise.. anyways the new nute ratio will fix this.

 

[WeedLover487]

Are you referring to the purpling ? I make my plants do that on purpose by keeping my temps 68 - 72 F during Flower. Cold Temps will produce more Terpenes & Trichs to protect itself from the cold. More Terpene & Trich production makes better weed. Are you going by room temp or using a laser thermometer & going by leaf temp ? My leaf temps are usually about 10 degrees F lower than my room temp. The temp at the canopy matters most.

Really? I am heating the room when it goes below 19C.
Didn't know that

Looks heat or light stressed.

No chance, the lights are 50 cm away and the temperature is not going over 28 even in the hot days.

 

[Dontjudgeme]

Yes.
100% of the ppl I know that grow in soil are not testing EC.
In my country almost none of them also test ph, no need with our tap water, but I do.
Most of the sites that I read also says its a must for hydro, not for soil...

I am sure I will get benefits from it, maybe next grow I will learn more about it.
Thanks

I don’t do the whole EC and PPM testing either, but ph’ing on the other hand is a completely different story. Soil should have water ph’d between 6.5-7, whether you add anything to the water or not. My tap water is 7 out the faucet, but 6.5 is the happy medium because this is where most of the elements are available for the plant to use. ( This is however not the case when growing hydroponically or in coco ). Adding anything to your water will drop the ph and cause an imbalance in the nutrients availability unless you bring it back up. Otherwise you run the risk of feeding a plant that can’t eat it. Not sure how everyone where you live gets away with it, curious to see their harvest. If you’re using soil with nutrients in it, and your tap ph is 7, and you don’t do anything but water only, that’s manageable.

 

[19-Sean-86]

I don’t do the whole EC and PPM testing either, but ph’ing on the other hand is a completely different story. Soil should have water ph’d between 6.5-7, whether you add anything to the water or not. My tap water is 7 out the faucet, but 6.5 is the happy medium because this is where most of the elements are available for the plant to use. ( This is however not the case when growing hydroponically or in coco ). Adding anything to your water will drop the ph and cause an imbalance in the nutrients availability unless you bring it back up. Otherwise you run the risk of feeding a plant that can eat it. Not sure how everyone where you live gets away with it, curious to see their harvest. If you’re using soil with nutrients in it, and your tap ph is 7, and you don’t do anything but water only, that’s manageable.

I think I know what the OP was saying. If you look online so much stuff say's you don't need to pH the water if grown in soil as it buffers it. While this may work out for some it isn't a one size fits all. I don't test ppm's but I do have meter to check if a problem arises my tap water is 7.6 out the tap and has caused me problems before so I have to pH down wether I use plain water or with nutes added. So basically some people are lucky to have perfect tap water some are not.

 

[Kushash]

Yes.
100% of the ppl I know that grow in soil are not testing EC.
In my country almost none of them also test ph, no need with our tap water, but I do.
Most of the sites that I read also says its a must for hydro, not for soil...

I am sure I will get benefits from it, maybe next grow I will learn more about it.
Thanks

Sounds good.

I do not check or adjust water PH as a soil grower who uses mostly top dressing vs bottles. There are some excellent soil growers on RIU who do adjust water PH.

There are a lot of posts on this thread that I do not agree with so I can see how it is hard for you to know who to listen to.
Listen to xthso, he knows what he is talking about.

All I can say is someone who uses bottled nutrients should know the E/C of what they added to avoid over feeding.
If we knew the EC you were feeding it would tell us a lot. We might easily be able to tell you if you over fed or under fed your plant if you had that information.

I'm going to move on. Good Luck!

I grew a Blue Dream recently. I made a ton of mistakes and had a few issues so it did not turn out good. I took clones and have them in veg now, they should turn out better this grow. The purpling is normal for a blue dream.
Happy Growing!