A Guide To Colloidal Silver

xtsho

Well-Known Member
If you're going to pay for CS just buy the stuff you need to make it yourself. It's really easy. Most of those health products people buy don't end up working and are a waste of money.

Or just buy the stuff to make STS as @growerNshower said. Spray a couple times and call it done.
Colloidal silver actually lasts for ages and I've been making my own for about 7 years tho never used it on plants. I got the chemicals for making STS tho had to make my own silver nitrate from a .9999 silver coin from the post office and boiling concentrated nitric acid. Took forever to find the sodium thiosulphate but found a chem supply place in Ontario and got 500g for $22. $69 for Purolator to get it to me as it's shipped as a hazardous material but have enough for 10 lifetimes now. :)

STS has a pretty short shelf life and should be refrigerated after the final mixing up so I wonder about the stuff they sell online. Supposedly only good for a month or two if kept cold.

:peace:
They send the silver nitrate and sodium thiosulfate in separate solutions that you mix together when you get it. Silver nitrate solution will last indefinitely but it is light sensitive. The sodium thiosulfate solution will last at least 18 months.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
If you're going to pay for CS just buy the stuff you need to make it yourself. It's really easy. Most of those health products people buy don't end up working and are a waste of money.

Or just buy the stuff to make STS as @growerNshower said. Spray a couple times and call it done.


They send the silver nitrate and sodium thiosulfate in separate solutions that you mix together when you get it. Silver nitrate solution will last indefinitely but it is light sensitive. The sodium thiosulfate solution will last at least 18 months.
Ah. That's OK then. I've sent out the separate chems with an instruction sheet to a few peeps now. I found a little store in the city an hour away that sells brown and cobalt blue bottles of various sizes and bought some 500ml and 1L brown ones to store them in once mixed with water. The instructions I have say to spray at 3 weeks but that didn't work so next try will start before flipping to flower and see how that goes. I just sprayed a branch on a plant but will get clones and spray a whole plant next time. I want to make some auto fems for outdoors and that's tricky but what else do I have to do. :)

Until both are mixed to make the STS they should last for a long time when kept in the dark and cool.

:peace:
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Ah. That's OK then. I've sent out the separate chems with an instruction sheet to a few peeps now. I found a little store in the city an hour away that sells brown and cobalt blue bottles of various sizes and bought some 500ml and 1L brown ones to store them in once mixed with water. The instructions I have say to spray at 3 weeks but that didn't work so next try will start before flipping to flower and see how that goes. I just sprayed a branch on a plant but will get clones and spray a whole plant next time. I want to make some auto fems for outdoors and that's tricky but what else do I have to do. :)

Until both are mixed to make the STS they should last for a long time when kept in the dark and cool.

:peace:
I spray a few days before flipping but the last one I sprayed at flip and still ended up with pollen to pollinate the female clone. I always just do entire clones. The last one was a favor for a friend that just went crazy over the Night Nurse I grew one time. I hooked him up. Even started the plants for him since he can't seem to get a seed to grow. Now I have a couple vials of Fem Night Nurse seeds. And actually I like it myself as well. It's great to put you to sleep.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I spray a few days before flipping but the last one I sprayed at flip and still ended up with pollen to pollinate the female clone. I always just do entire clones. The last one was a favor for a friend that just went crazy over the Night Nurse I grew one time. I hooked him up. Even started the plants for him since he can't seem to get a seed to grow. Now I have a couple vials of Fem Night Nurse seeds. And actually I like it myself as well. It's great to put you to sleep.
I hoping for a good sleepy time buzz from some Nepali Temple I'm growing now. Have 5 growing but only one has shown sex for sure yet and is female. I'll take some cuttings from her and will soon be flowering the mom and trying to get pollen from one of her clones. If any of the others are male I'll get some regular seeds to have fresh ones.

I've heard of that Night Nurse and it's supposed to be pretty good for pain of all kinds too. Could make good RSO out of that.

Some strains/crosses I was very enthusiastic about just years ago now aren't even on the old radar now. Wish I hadn't let my Hindu Kush plants die but the guy that sent me the Temple beans also sent along some Hindu Kush ones. Might be another dark purple one in there somewhere. :)

My buddy here is like your pal. I need to start the seeds for him and now he's decided to say screw the 4 plant limit and wants to do 8 in a 4x8' tent using the 2 600w HPS lights I gave him a couple years ago. Got 3 for myself at $60 each with eballast, hood and Hortilux SHPS bulbs. I have some fem Heirloom Maui Wowie Cherry Bomb Pheno seeds I planned to grow but I'll let him do it and go get cuttings from the best 2 or 3. He's only 20 miles away and his new neighbour grows and can help him.

:peace:
 
I got the Maui as a 6th gen clone in late 2010, it was one of those wonderful plants. The last run was an 18th gen and it made it's final cross with a Bay-11 purple male. I have many crosses during these yrs, 2 that are real keepers. Always wanted some fem seeds of this girl but it never happened.

After my HI vacation in Dec I'll start a Maui Bay pheno hunt, find the right pheno, and then I'll be trying this again. With a lower ppm elixir.

One more time thanks for your post and time. :clap: I'm sure it will help others.
im trying to make it with 3 9 volt batteries and its been 4 hours and still 0 ppm
A Guide To Colloidal Silver
Introduction:
Ok, so a lot of people around here have been asking the same questions about Colloidal Silver over and over, and I don't blame them. The information is generally scattered, and if you manage to find a good post here and there, chances are you will find a few more contradicting it, making it difficult to sort the useful information from the myths.

What is Colloidal Silver:
Colloidal Silver the mixture of pure distilled water, and pure (0.9999) silver. It is created by running current through silver electrodes that are placed water, which causes microscopic particles of silver (colloids) to break off and become suspended in the water.

How does Colloidal Silver work on cannabis plants:
Many people believe that Colloidal Silver spray works by burning, or otherwise stressing a female plant, forcing it to "hermie", or make pollen sacs. This is completely false. As you will see later in this post, real Colloidal Silver doesn't harm the plant in any way, shape, or form.

Colloidal Silver works by being composed of particles so small, that they can easily pass through the plants cells. Once the Colloidal Silver particles are in the plant, they bond to the existing copper molecules. Normal female cannabis plants, use these copper molecules to produce the hormone Ethylene, which is what "tells" them that they are supposed to make normal female flowers (calyxes with pistils). When the Colloidal Silver bonds with the copper molecules, this is inhibited and the plant instead produces pollen sacs.
*Note: These are still female flowers. Just female pollen sacs. Not male flowers.

Why are seeds made with Colloidal Silver "feminized":
First of all, "feminized" is a bad term. That implies that something was done to the seeds to cause them to turn out to be female. This is not the case. All of the pollen you collect from a Colloidal Silver reversed plant will be completely normal except for one thing. There is no chance of it carrying a Y-chromosome because it was created by a female plant and female plants have double X-chromosomes. Therefore, when you use this female pollen (all x-chromosomes) on a female flower, it forms a double x chromosome offspring (a female).

Store-bought "Colloidal Silver":
Why is "Colloidal Silver" in quotes? It is in quotes, because most of the stuff you buy that is pre-made, is either:
A) Not real colloidal silver
or
B) Very little real Colloidal Silver with other stuff added.

This means it is usually very weak, and not very effective. Often times, the particles in these mixtures are far to large to permeate the plant's cell walls, or not pure silver. Either way, the stuff will most likely sit on top of your plant's surface, and burn/suffocate/deform it. If you end up getting pollen sacs to form, it MAY be because of the limited real Colloidal Silver in the mixture you bought, or because the burning effects of the spray stressed the plant to the point of making emergency pollen sacs (hermie). Often times these plants look burned and in overall terrible condition. They also usually produce a lot of pistils even on the sprayed areas, amongst the forced pollen sacs.

Can you use store bought "Colloidal Silver" spray and get Female Seeds? Yes.
Should you? No.
Why? You risk just killing your plant without getting any reversing, sterile pollen sacs if you do get any, and still very little pollen if you manage to get some that is viable.

How can I tell if my Colloidal Silver is real:
Pour your”Colloidal Silver” mixture into a clear glass with smooth walls, and shine a cheap laser pointer through it. You should be able to see the entire beam (it reflects off of the silver micro-particles), and also a lack of floating debris (often black bits). This is called the Tyndall Effect.

It should look like this. (Note the ppm. Some store-bought stuff says 240+ but the beam is barely visible if at all, let alone multiple times brighter like it should be.
im trying to make it with 3 9 volt batteries but it still 0 ppm after 4 hours. help
 

printer

Well-Known Member
im trying to make it with 3 9 volt batteries and its been 4 hours and still 0 ppm

im trying to make it with 3 9 volt batteries but it still 0 ppm after 4 hours. help
There is very little current flowing at first as the water does not have many ions floating around in it. As the amount of ions increase the ability to pass more current will increase which increases the amount of ions. So what you do not see is normal. It took me a couple of days before I saw much happening in mine. The one thing I learned is to get a cheap laser pointer to see the silver in solution. When you see the beam sparkle it is time to stop.
 

EKG Cal Canna

Well-Known Member
I know its an old thread but Im wondering if anyone uses colloidal/nano silver in their feed/medium without causing hermaphrodism? I make a nano silver with high voltage to low amperage,ac 15000 v to 3.6 amp dc & have had hermie issues but Incredible growth on the other hand, using it in feed at 10 ml per gallon. Bugs & fungi seem to Hate silver hence the cause of Crazy growth. It seems impossible to measure to measure ppm with a tds meter because its nano sized. Any input?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I know its an old thread but Im wondering if anyone uses colloidal/nano silver in their feed/medium without causing hermaphrodism? I make a nano silver with high voltage to low amperage,ac 15000 v to 3.6 amp dc & have had hermie issues but Incredible growth on the other hand, using it in feed at 10 ml per gallon. Bugs & fungi seem to Hate silver hence the cause of Crazy growth. It seems impossible to measure to measure ppm with a tds meter because its nano sized. Any input?
What are you using to get 15,000V, a neon sign transformer? I bought a new TDS pen that measures in single digits and diluted 1000ppm calibration sol'n down to 20ppm and calibrate the pen to that to check my CS and RO water. I just use a 28vDC wall wart for power and a simple current limiting circuit to adjust the current flow to keep particle size small. Supposedly you can multiply the reading by 2 - 2.5 to get a close approximation of the actual ppm but it takes electron spectroscopy or something like that to get true ppm and most of the stuff sold is just a wild guess as to it's actual concentration.

Personally I doubt that 10ml CS to a gallon is going to do much including causing hermies and certainly not cause crazy growth. Why would you want to kill off fungi in your medium anyhow?

I figure my CS to be around 12-15ppm and it works great for tooth infections and things like toenail fungus. My wife uses it on her chickens when they get infections. Adds it to their drinking water and sprays some on any wounds to good effect. We keep a small sprayer in the bathroom so it's handy for small cuts etc.

I've been meaning to take a couple of clones and treat one with CS to see what happens so must do that soon.

:peace:
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I'm wanting to make some seeds can anyone recommend a ready made solution i can buy of the shelf?

I'd rather not but if required i can get silver nitrate, would i just mix that with pure water at the appropriate ppm or would it need some electrolysis?

Silver Nitrate Powder AgNO3 99.9%+ Ag is Certified by London Assay Office?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I'm wanting to make some seeds can anyone recommend a ready made solution i can buy of the shelf?

I'd rather not but if required i can get silver nitrate, would i just mix that with pure water at the appropriate ppm or would it need some electrolysis?

Silver Nitrate Powder AgNO3 99.9%+ Ag is Certified by London Assay Office?
If you can get silver nitrate you should get some sodium thiosulphate as well then you can make STS which is much more efficient at resexing plants.

I couldn't find any silver nitrate so made my own but did find the sodium thio anhydrous and got 500g of that for $22 but $69 for shipping as it goes as hazardous material.

What we make isn't really colloidal silver but ionic silver and it's the nano sized ions that make it work. If just using diluted silver nitrate worked everybody would be doing it that way so I'd have to say no to trying that. I have read about injecting dilute silver nitrate under the skin of the plant will work but have never tried it myself but probably should. If that worked it would be hella easier than all that spraying. Daily or twice a day for CS and every 4-5 days with STS.

:peace:
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
If you can get silver nitrate you should get some sodium thiosulphate as well then you can make STS which is much more efficient at resexing plants.

I couldn't find any silver nitrate so made my own but did find the sodium thio anhydrous and got 500g of that for $22 but $69 for shipping as it goes as hazardous material.

What we make isn't really colloidal silver but ionic silver and it's the nano sized ions that make it work. If just using diluted silver nitrate worked everybody would be doing it that way so I'd have to say no to trying that. I have read about injecting dilute silver nitrate under the skin of the plant will work but have never tried it myself but probably should. If that worked it would be hella easier than all that spraying. Daily or twice a day for CS and every 4-5 days with STS.

:peace:
Thank you, I'll take your advice and look into the sodium thiosulphate.

Much appreciated.
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
If you can get silver nitrate you should get some sodium thiosulphate as well then you can make STS which is much more efficient at resexing plants.

I couldn't find any silver nitrate so made my own but did find the sodium thio anhydrous and got 500g of that for $22 but $69 for shipping as it goes as hazardous material.

What we make isn't really colloidal silver but ionic silver and it's the nano sized ions that make it work. If just using diluted silver nitrate worked everybody would be doing it that way so I'd have to say no to trying that. I have read about injecting dilute silver nitrate under the skin of the plant will work but have never tried it myself but probably should. If that worked it would be hella easier than all that spraying. Daily or twice a day for CS and every 4-5 days with STS.

:peace:
You can get the anhydrous sodium thiosulfate and silver nitrate both on amazon with free shipping.
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
@OldMedUser i just had a quick look it's available pretty cheap if it's the correct stuff...
"Sodium Thiosulphate Pentahydrate 99% Pure. SUBSTANCE: Sodium Thiosulphate Pentahydrate. Calcium (Ca): <0.30%"
Can you confirm that is the right thing, it gets used in de chlorination?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
ive heard that ward sticks contain silver nitrate, you just need a drop of it.
i havent tried myself, but Nachooo told me this once, hes using that method for decades.
Any idea how he uses the wart sticks?

:peace:
You can get the anhydrous sodium thiosulfate and silver nitrate both on amazon with free shipping.
Amazon . com for sure as I looked there but I'm in Canaduh and other than a weak silver nitrate sol'n I couldn't find either chemical on amazon . ca.

I found the sodium thio anhydrous at a chemical supply in Ontario. Place called AlphaChem in case any fellow Canuckleheads are needing some. They may have the silver nitrate too but I have some conc. sulphuric acid so used an 8gram .9999 silver coin from the post office and made 12g of it. Nasty fumes so did that outside on the tailgate of the pickup.

AgNO303.jpg

SodiumThio.JPG

:peace:
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
@OldMedUser i just had a quick look it's available pretty cheap if it's the correct stuff...
"Sodium Thiosulphate Pentahydrate 99% Pure. SUBSTANCE: Sodium Thiosulphate Pentahydrate. Calcium (Ca): <0.30%"
Can you confirm that is the right thing, it gets used in de chlorination?
That'll work and it is sold for dechlorination at some water supply places. Usually in tablets but can be crushed up for use. The amount you need is more than with the anhydrous type tho so depending on the formulation. Multiply the amount of anhydrous by 1.56 to get the correct amount of the pentahydrate version to use. So if it calls for 2.5g of anhydrous then 2.5 x 1.56 = 3.9g of the pentahydrate needed.

:peace:
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
he told me that you just need to tip the stick for short in to the solution.

the ward sticks should be easy to get and prob dont cause much raised eyebrowes in the pharmacy.
in canada.
75% silver nitrate and 25% potassium nitrate
easy to weight the powder of a stick and get some idea.

i forgot how much thiosulfate he used, he wasnt very precise with his mixes i think.
but as nachoo said, tip the top of the stick in to the mix and spray it, doubt the last 0.1g will count here.
 
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