pandabear
Well-Known Member
if what your talking about is vanarial disease then count me outtrue, but what you get from sagarmatha, and what you get from kenai alaska are two very different things babe....
kp
Molasses part 2
- Thread starter nongreenthumb
- Start date
babygro
Well-Known Member
Fair enough, I just thought you may have some reasoning to go by.
This is why you need to be a little circumspect about everything you read.
Pre harvest 'flushing' or plain watering as it should be known by is an interesting subject of which many people appear to have their own pet theories. The common theme among these theories is that by plain watering in the last two weeks helps to produce better tasting and burning bud, but it seems very few people appear to understand why - which is why everyone adopts it without actually thinking about it too much or without really understanding what they're doing.
Just to clear up the 'poor burning' bud question - that's a direct result of excesses of Phosphorous in the harvested bud that causes the bud to burn poorly - it can also be extremely carciogenic. If you've got poor burning bud - you've got too much Phosphorous residuals in it.
I just want to give you a hypothetical scenario which I feel explains why some people flush and others don't -
If you've fed your plant with the correct levels of nutrients throughout it's grow cycle, why should there be any residuals left in the plant or the soil at harvest? Same principle pretty much applies to hydro.
People flush in the last two weeks because they have no idea whatsoever of the amount of nutrient residuals left in the plant/soil - because they either haven't been feeding at the correct level, or simply have no idea what the correct level should have been or have been purposefully overfeeding it.
So, for those who control their nutrient dosages very carefully and at the correct level for their plants, they don't need to flush, whether they be in hydro, soil, organic or whatever. For the rest, who fatten up their plants with all sorts of flowering and bud booster products designed specifically for putting weight onto the buds - they have to flush because they have no idea what the residual nutrients are.
BloodShotI'z
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that BG. That does kind of put a whole other spin on flushing.
Knowing 'why' is the biggest help.
Going by that info and looking at my situation particularly I think it may not be needed. I've had my plants on 1/2 strength nutes the entire grow. Both hydro and soil.
Much appreciated.
Knowing 'why' is the biggest help.
Going by that info and looking at my situation particularly I think it may not be needed. I've had my plants on 1/2 strength nutes the entire grow. Both hydro and soil.
Much appreciated.
GraF
Well-Known Member
I USE MOLLASSES!!! or however the hell you spell it...
Im 2 weeks into flowering right now with 5 plants- I was actually gonna do a grow without mollasses but I guess I could try one plant with it and see what happens.... if anyone would be interested in seeing... I could make a thread with the comparison.
Grrrrrr-rrrrrraF
Im 2 weeks into flowering right now with 5 plants- I was actually gonna do a grow without mollasses but I guess I could try one plant with it and see what happens.... if anyone would be interested in seeing... I could make a thread with the comparison.
Grrrrrr-rrrrrraF
babygro
Well-Known Member
No problem.
Well even 1/2 strength can be too much for some plants - it really does depends on the plant and how much it needs. There's no set formula for growing any plants - all there are are guidelines - the exact amount depends soley on your plants and your setup. In my opinion you really shouldn't be feeding much more than 0.8-1.0 EC on soil and not much more in hydro. People frequently feed at excesses of 2.0 EC on both soil and hydro - this is 'force feeding' in my mind - the plants can survive on far lower EC levels than that.
The 'flushing' or 'plain water' feeding in the last two weeks of harvest comes directly from the 'old' days of home growing in the late 70's and early 80's where people were growing under sodium Vapour lamps and fluorescents and feeding huge quantities of home made and mixed chemically based nutrients, particularly Phosphorous for bud fattening. They soon realised that the huge Phosphorous residuals left in the buds after harvest made the bud burn really poorly. This prompted them to stop feeding these huge amounts of Phosphorous in the last two weeks and force the plant to use up whatever residuals it had itself or that were present in the soil, by feeding only plain water.
Now this seems to have been universally adopted by everyone - despite most people not really understanding why as I said earlier, or where the trend first came from.
20 years later on and nutrient fomulations have improved immeasurably, both organic, inorganic soil and hydro chemical based ones, as well as massive improvements in lighting ventilation and pretty much every other aspect to indoor growing, yet people still continue with a 'technique' which was used 20 years ago for a very specific reason.
This is only my opinion and I'm sure others have their own views on it, but I can never understand why people adopt practices without really understanding what they're doing or why they're doing it.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Not everyone adopts pre-harvest flushing.
Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.
The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.
Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing.
Preharvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are loosing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.
The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with preharvest flushing.
Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on unflushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or overfert and unproper drying/curing.
GraF
Well-Known Member
hey babygro-
I use age-old organics rightr now- what if I used mollasses on one plant and none on the other with the same amount of nutrients and lighting- watering, same everything. except one with mollasses- if the mollasses plant came back with a better yield..... would you change your mind???
just curious to know- thats all.
I use age-old organics rightr now- what if I used mollasses on one plant and none on the other with the same amount of nutrients and lighting- watering, same everything. except one with mollasses- if the mollasses plant came back with a better yield..... would you change your mind???
just curious to know- thats all.
babygro
Well-Known Member
My view on that would be - great, you've found (for your setup) something that works for you and gives you the results you want. I'm not adverse to Molasses use at all, if people find it works for them - good for them, I'm perfectly happy with what I use and as far as I'm concerned it does as good a job if not more so than Molasses does.
If I was very happy with the overall health of my plants and the yields I get from them, why would I want to change what I use and how I use it?
I also use a Mycorrhizal inoculant in my soil which I help stimulate and feed with Seaweed Extract and in my own personal opinion, the performance of those two combined knocks Molasses into a cocked hat.
So the answer to your question would be a no.
GraF
Well-Known Member
posted my babygro... "If I was very happy with the overall health of my plants and the yields I get from them, why would I want to change what I use and how I use it?"
ummm........ maybe for a bigger yield?? I know you could have come up with that answer yourself partner.
but I just read all of that "mychonozzial-pronozial" chemistry shit which I have no understanding of so...... I guess youre better off with the M-word stuff- mollasses sounds easier though!!!! lets give it that at least!!!
Can you agree with me on that one??? lol
ummm........ maybe for a bigger yield?? I know you could have come up with that answer yourself partner.
but I just read all of that "mychonozzial-pronozial" chemistry shit which I have no understanding of so...... I guess youre better off with the M-word stuff- mollasses sounds easier though!!!! lets give it that at least!!!
Can you agree with me on that one??? lol
mogie
Well-Known Member
This might help explain what babygirl is talking about. Beware this is long and broken into a few posts.
The Benefits of Beneficial Organisms - Guineapig and IM Boggled, CC forums circa 3-2006
The effects of micro-organisms on a plant can be profound. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant and are found in soil. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of loopers, fungus gnats, insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Tricoderma is a fungi that feeds off pathogenic root rot and damping off fungi; it also stimulates the plants root and immune systems, which helps the plant to fight off fungi attacks. Mycorrhizae is a beneficial fungi which colonizes the root surface; this helps keep the pathogenic fungi from getting a foot hold on the plant’s root system. Mycorrhizae also helps the plant take up nutrients that are out of reach of the plant’s roots. All of these beneficial organisms feed off plant exudes from the root system and some nutrients in the growing medium.
How to use beneficals in your system.
To get the maximum benefit from beneficial micro-organisms, the gardener should always provide food for these beneficals. Providing these organisms with food (e.g.: Liquid Karma, Earth Juice Catalyst and Sweet) ensures that they will grow and multiply in your garden, however, the harmful micro-organisms will also use this food to multiply. This is one of the reasons why your water and growing medium should be well oxygenated. Harmful pathogens tend to thrive in anaerobic conditions whereas beneficial organisms thrive in aerobic conditions.
For clones and seedlings – Use both Hydroguard (15ml per gallon) and Rhizotonic (15ml per gallon). These two products can be used in clone machines, rockwool cubes and Rapid Rooters. The Hydroguard contains two bacillus strains which secrete anti-biotics which will fight off root rot and damping-off pathogens. The Rhizotonic will help your young plants develop vigorous, healthy, strong roots; it will also provide the bacillus with some food. If your seedlings or clones develop a stem rot Hydroguard can be painted on the affected area (1 part Hydroguard 3 parts water).
For plants in soil – Most gardeners who grow in soil will use organic nutrients to feed there plants. Mycorrhizae suits plants that are being fed organic nutrients; chemical nutrients, especially when the concentration builds up in the growing medium, will destroy the Mycorrhizae. It is best to apply Mycorrhizae into the soil before planting (1 teaspoon of Rooters Mycorrhizae per gallon of soil). Bacillus and tricoderma can also be used on plants grown in soil. One pouch of Subculture should be mixed into 8 cubic feet of soil. A maintenance application should be reapplied every 4-6 weeks at 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water. A weekly application of Liquid Karma or Earth Juice Catalyst will help keep your plants healthy and also provide the beneficial organisms with essential foods to keep them multiplying. This program can also be used for plants being grown in coco fiber that are fed organic nutrients.
For hydroponic systems – Mycorrhizae does not do well in hydroponic systems as it is sensitive to the nutrients that are used for hydroponics. For hydroponic systems it is best to use Subculture or Hydroguard. Both these products contain bacillus strains which are well suited to hydroponics even in systems that have high salt contents. Subculture should be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water/nutrient solution (1 pouch per 50 gallons). The first application of Hydroguard should be 15ml per gallon and maintenance applications at 5-10ml per gallon of nutrient solution. For coco fiber, rockwool and Ready-Gro mediums, both Hydroguard and Subculture should be reapplied 21 days after first application and thereafter every 21 days. For hydroponic systems that use Hydroton rocks, perlite, NFT or aeroponics, the Subculture and Hydroguard should be reapplied every 7 days.
Foliar Sprays – Both Hydroguard and Subculture can be used as a foliar spray to help control mildew that attack the leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants. Serenade is another product which contains only Bacillus subtilus. These bacteria will effectively control most leaf fungi pathogens.
Fungus Gnats – Bacillus thuringienses sub-species israelensis (the active ingredient in Gnatrol) is used for the control of fungus gnats. This bacteria produces a parasporal crystal which is toxic to the larvae of fungus gnats.
Please note: Even though you are dealing with a biological organism, always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap when finished, and when using these products as a foliar spray use a mask. Keep these products away from children and animals.
(note: this information is for educational purposes only.....but if you want to see a killer website that i like, go here:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/a...05_bacteria.asp
and you will find the source of the above information and funny bacterium illustration....thanks hempyhog....
-- IM Boggled replies
The term mycorrhizal comes from the Latin words myco, meaning fungus, and rhiza, meaning root. Mycorrhizal fungi are fungi that have developed a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with the root systems of living plants, from garden vegetables all the way up to Old Growth trees. Networks of mycorrhizal filaments envelop the seedling's root structure, greatly extending and enhancing (by a factor of several hundred to several thousand times) the growing plant's water- and nutrient-gathering abilities and protecting the plant from disease.
The Benefits of Beneficial Organisms - Guineapig and IM Boggled, CC forums circa 3-2006
The effects of micro-organisms on a plant can be profound. These organisms, such as bacillus, mycorrhizae and trichoderma all form symbiotic relationships with the plant and are found in soil. Bacillus is used world wide for the control of loopers, fungus gnats, insect pests and opportunistic fungi pathogens. Tricoderma is a fungi that feeds off pathogenic root rot and damping off fungi; it also stimulates the plants root and immune systems, which helps the plant to fight off fungi attacks. Mycorrhizae is a beneficial fungi which colonizes the root surface; this helps keep the pathogenic fungi from getting a foot hold on the plant’s root system. Mycorrhizae also helps the plant take up nutrients that are out of reach of the plant’s roots. All of these beneficial organisms feed off plant exudes from the root system and some nutrients in the growing medium.
How to use beneficals in your system.
To get the maximum benefit from beneficial micro-organisms, the gardener should always provide food for these beneficals. Providing these organisms with food (e.g.: Liquid Karma, Earth Juice Catalyst and Sweet) ensures that they will grow and multiply in your garden, however, the harmful micro-organisms will also use this food to multiply. This is one of the reasons why your water and growing medium should be well oxygenated. Harmful pathogens tend to thrive in anaerobic conditions whereas beneficial organisms thrive in aerobic conditions.
For clones and seedlings – Use both Hydroguard (15ml per gallon) and Rhizotonic (15ml per gallon). These two products can be used in clone machines, rockwool cubes and Rapid Rooters. The Hydroguard contains two bacillus strains which secrete anti-biotics which will fight off root rot and damping-off pathogens. The Rhizotonic will help your young plants develop vigorous, healthy, strong roots; it will also provide the bacillus with some food. If your seedlings or clones develop a stem rot Hydroguard can be painted on the affected area (1 part Hydroguard 3 parts water).
For plants in soil – Most gardeners who grow in soil will use organic nutrients to feed there plants. Mycorrhizae suits plants that are being fed organic nutrients; chemical nutrients, especially when the concentration builds up in the growing medium, will destroy the Mycorrhizae. It is best to apply Mycorrhizae into the soil before planting (1 teaspoon of Rooters Mycorrhizae per gallon of soil). Bacillus and tricoderma can also be used on plants grown in soil. One pouch of Subculture should be mixed into 8 cubic feet of soil. A maintenance application should be reapplied every 4-6 weeks at 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water. A weekly application of Liquid Karma or Earth Juice Catalyst will help keep your plants healthy and also provide the beneficial organisms with essential foods to keep them multiplying. This program can also be used for plants being grown in coco fiber that are fed organic nutrients.
For hydroponic systems – Mycorrhizae does not do well in hydroponic systems as it is sensitive to the nutrients that are used for hydroponics. For hydroponic systems it is best to use Subculture or Hydroguard. Both these products contain bacillus strains which are well suited to hydroponics even in systems that have high salt contents. Subculture should be applied at a rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons of water/nutrient solution (1 pouch per 50 gallons). The first application of Hydroguard should be 15ml per gallon and maintenance applications at 5-10ml per gallon of nutrient solution. For coco fiber, rockwool and Ready-Gro mediums, both Hydroguard and Subculture should be reapplied 21 days after first application and thereafter every 21 days. For hydroponic systems that use Hydroton rocks, perlite, NFT or aeroponics, the Subculture and Hydroguard should be reapplied every 7 days.
Foliar Sprays – Both Hydroguard and Subculture can be used as a foliar spray to help control mildew that attack the leaves, stems, flowers and fruits of plants. Serenade is another product which contains only Bacillus subtilus. These bacteria will effectively control most leaf fungi pathogens.
Fungus Gnats – Bacillus thuringienses sub-species israelensis (the active ingredient in Gnatrol) is used for the control of fungus gnats. This bacteria produces a parasporal crystal which is toxic to the larvae of fungus gnats.
Please note: Even though you are dealing with a biological organism, always wash your hands with an anti-bacterial soap when finished, and when using these products as a foliar spray use a mask. Keep these products away from children and animals.
(note: this information is for educational purposes only.....but if you want to see a killer website that i like, go here:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/static/a...05_bacteria.asp
and you will find the source of the above information and funny bacterium illustration....thanks hempyhog....
-- IM Boggled replies
The term mycorrhizal comes from the Latin words myco, meaning fungus, and rhiza, meaning root. Mycorrhizal fungi are fungi that have developed a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with the root systems of living plants, from garden vegetables all the way up to Old Growth trees. Networks of mycorrhizal filaments envelop the seedling's root structure, greatly extending and enhancing (by a factor of several hundred to several thousand times) the growing plant's water- and nutrient-gathering abilities and protecting the plant from disease.
mogie
Well-Known Member
This is a good and Inexpensive innoculation product
Plant Success Mycorrhizae Tablets
A mixture of 12 species of endo- and ectomycorrhizal fungi, Plant Revolution™ Plant Success™ Tabs are designed to help the gardener or home landscaper promote fast plant and root growth, increase nutrient and water uptake and reduce fertilizer use. Each Plant Success™ Tab consists of millions of spores of the following mycorrhizal species:
Endomycorrhiza
Glomus mosseae
Glomus intraradices
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporus
Glomus deserticola
Glomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita
Ectomycorrhiza
Pisolithus tinctorus
Four species of
Rhizopogon
Exceptionally helpful for those who use commercial potting soils, which are sterilized and therefore devoid of beneficial microorganisms.
Fungi Perfecti, a legal edible mushroom growers supply company, is the apparent manufacturer of "plant success"
Fungi Perfecti®: MycoGrow™ mycorrhizal products
GrowStuffPlus! stocks it as do others if one googles it.
http://www.growstuffplus.com/IBS/Si...archy/0001.html
"DIEHARD BioRush":
is a dry, water soluble root growth stimulant with nitrogen fixing, phosphorus solubilizing and growth promoting beneficial bacteria packaged in pre-measured, labeled bags for easy use with tank sprayers. Contains humic acid extracts, Trichoderma, soluble sea kelp, yucca plant extracts, amino acids and natural sugars to “energize” the microbial activity in the ground and promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. Our unique formulation of ingredients affect the permeability of cell wall membranes in roots, improve plant respiration, photosynthesis, promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. All these factors are well known to provide major benefit to plants promoting vigorous root growth and the overall general condition of the plant environment.
.....
The 1/4 lb. bag makes 25 very "hot" gallons.
Its best to mix/brew/stand seperately and then add splashes to nutrient mixes to innoculate, imho, using this product.
I've used it on various trees and gardens with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables in them and it tends to make a very noticeable difference compared to other gardens not beneficially innoculated.
I plan on growing some giant watermelons in the ground next year to compete in the county fair with, and this DieHard stuff will be one of my secret weapons (along with Guano's).
I have some Carolina Cross watermelon seeds from a 268.8 pounds, 37" long, 49" blossom to stem, 62.5" circumfrence specimen. (In metric lets just call that 122 kilogram, meter long mother "massive".)
Those Heirloom Tomato guys better hang onto there hats 'cause I'm coming to take their Blue Ribbons home too.
Informative post G.P., Thanks for sharing.
--Guineapig comes back
you know we are getting somewhere with IC when i have to go back and use myself as a reference.....way to go IC info gurus!!!
Components Used In DIEHARD™
Mycorrhizal "Cocktails"
I. Mycorrhizae - An estimated 10,000 research studies have been done on mycorrhizae during the past 25
years. Mycorrhizal fungi inoculants have been available to commercial markets only during the past 5
years.
A. Endomycorrhizae - A symbiotic relationship of endomycorrhizal fungi with roots of 90% of plant
species worldwide.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of live spores of Glomus mosseae, Glomus intraradices,
Glomus fasciculatum, Glomus dussii, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum.
2. Available in dry form with a shelf live of 18 months.
B. Ectomycorrhizae – A symbiotic relationship of ectomycorrhizal fungi with many tree species i.e.
pines, oaks and select hardwoods.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of Pisolithus tinctorius and a variety of species of Rhizopogon.
II. Trichoderma and other beneficial fungi- Trichoderma (6 species), Gliocladium virens (2 strains), Trichoderma
harzianum (2 strains), Trichoderma viride (2 strains).
Trichoderma is a recognized beneficial fungus that is used to compete with the food source and space of
negative causing fungi in the soil. Spores of the fungus, when mixed with soils, germinate and grow around
plant roots depriving negative fungi the living space and food source thereby causing death to them, therefore
preventing fungal diseases.
Our KEY MICROBIAL COMPONENTS include:
BACILLUS: (32 SPECIES)
Bacillus azotofixans (2 strains): nitrogen fixation
Bacillus azotoformans (3 strains): nitrogen fixation, plant growth hormones
Bacillus megaterium (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus polymyza (5 strains): anti-fungal, nitrogen fixation, nutrient cycling
Bacillus thuringiensis (2 strains): entomopathogenic
Bacillus licheniformis (6 strains): enzymes, plant growth hormones, soil structure
Bacillus pumulis (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus subtilla (10 strains): anti-fungal
PSUEDOMONAS: (2 SPECIES)
Psuedomonas aureofaceans (2 strains): anti-fungal
STREPTOMYCES : (2 SPECIES)
Streptomyces lydicus (2 strains): anti-fungal
TRICHODERMA (6 SPECIES)
Trichoderma harzianum (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Trichoderma viride (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Gliocladium virens (2 strains): anti-fungal
Plant Success Mycorrhizae Tablets
A mixture of 12 species of endo- and ectomycorrhizal fungi, Plant Revolution™ Plant Success™ Tabs are designed to help the gardener or home landscaper promote fast plant and root growth, increase nutrient and water uptake and reduce fertilizer use. Each Plant Success™ Tab consists of millions of spores of the following mycorrhizal species:
Endomycorrhiza
Glomus mosseae
Glomus intraradices
Glomus clarum
Glomus monosporus
Glomus deserticola
Glomus brasilianum
Gigaspora margarita
Ectomycorrhiza
Pisolithus tinctorus
Four species of
Rhizopogon
Exceptionally helpful for those who use commercial potting soils, which are sterilized and therefore devoid of beneficial microorganisms.
Fungi Perfecti, a legal edible mushroom growers supply company, is the apparent manufacturer of "plant success"
Fungi Perfecti®: MycoGrow™ mycorrhizal products
GrowStuffPlus! stocks it as do others if one googles it.
http://www.growstuffplus.com/IBS/Si...archy/0001.html
"DIEHARD BioRush":
is a dry, water soluble root growth stimulant with nitrogen fixing, phosphorus solubilizing and growth promoting beneficial bacteria packaged in pre-measured, labeled bags for easy use with tank sprayers. Contains humic acid extracts, Trichoderma, soluble sea kelp, yucca plant extracts, amino acids and natural sugars to “energize” the microbial activity in the ground and promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. Our unique formulation of ingredients affect the permeability of cell wall membranes in roots, improve plant respiration, photosynthesis, promote cell division and lateral bud development as well as delay the aging process of plant tissue. All these factors are well known to provide major benefit to plants promoting vigorous root growth and the overall general condition of the plant environment.
.....
The 1/4 lb. bag makes 25 very "hot" gallons.
Its best to mix/brew/stand seperately and then add splashes to nutrient mixes to innoculate, imho, using this product.
I've used it on various trees and gardens with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables in them and it tends to make a very noticeable difference compared to other gardens not beneficially innoculated.
I plan on growing some giant watermelons in the ground next year to compete in the county fair with, and this DieHard stuff will be one of my secret weapons (along with Guano's).
I have some Carolina Cross watermelon seeds from a 268.8 pounds, 37" long, 49" blossom to stem, 62.5" circumfrence specimen. (In metric lets just call that 122 kilogram, meter long mother "massive".)
Those Heirloom Tomato guys better hang onto there hats 'cause I'm coming to take their Blue Ribbons home too.
Informative post G.P., Thanks for sharing.
--Guineapig comes back
you know we are getting somewhere with IC when i have to go back and use myself as a reference.....way to go IC info gurus!!!
Components Used In DIEHARD™
Mycorrhizal "Cocktails"
I. Mycorrhizae - An estimated 10,000 research studies have been done on mycorrhizae during the past 25
years. Mycorrhizal fungi inoculants have been available to commercial markets only during the past 5
years.
A. Endomycorrhizae - A symbiotic relationship of endomycorrhizal fungi with roots of 90% of plant
species worldwide.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of live spores of Glomus mosseae, Glomus intraradices,
Glomus fasciculatum, Glomus dussii, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum.
2. Available in dry form with a shelf live of 18 months.
B. Ectomycorrhizae – A symbiotic relationship of ectomycorrhizal fungi with many tree species i.e.
pines, oaks and select hardwoods.
1. Inoculant contains multi strains of Pisolithus tinctorius and a variety of species of Rhizopogon.
II. Trichoderma and other beneficial fungi- Trichoderma (6 species), Gliocladium virens (2 strains), Trichoderma
harzianum (2 strains), Trichoderma viride (2 strains).
Trichoderma is a recognized beneficial fungus that is used to compete with the food source and space of
negative causing fungi in the soil. Spores of the fungus, when mixed with soils, germinate and grow around
plant roots depriving negative fungi the living space and food source thereby causing death to them, therefore
preventing fungal diseases.
Our KEY MICROBIAL COMPONENTS include:
BACILLUS: (32 SPECIES)
Bacillus azotofixans (2 strains): nitrogen fixation
Bacillus azotoformans (3 strains): nitrogen fixation, plant growth hormones
Bacillus megaterium (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus polymyza (5 strains): anti-fungal, nitrogen fixation, nutrient cycling
Bacillus thuringiensis (2 strains): entomopathogenic
Bacillus licheniformis (6 strains): enzymes, plant growth hormones, soil structure
Bacillus pumulis (2 strains): decomposition, nutrient cycling
Bacillus subtilla (10 strains): anti-fungal
PSUEDOMONAS: (2 SPECIES)
Psuedomonas aureofaceans (2 strains): anti-fungal
STREPTOMYCES : (2 SPECIES)
Streptomyces lydicus (2 strains): anti-fungal
TRICHODERMA (6 SPECIES)
Trichoderma harzianum (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Trichoderma viride (2 strains): anti-fungal, plant growth hormones
Gliocladium virens (2 strains): anti-fungal
mogie
Well-Known Member
here is an addendum to today's lecture. below you will find a description of the different types of endomycorrhizae species...
Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Glomus dussii
Adapted to a large range of pH from 4,5 to 7, and is efficient on plant growth, and
preferably on tropical plants.
Glomus intraradices
Very common throughout the world. Shows disease resistance mechanisms against
Fusarium oxysporum.
Glomus fasciculatum
Adapted for drought conditions in high phosphorus soil. Also very effective in high
salinity conditions and is efficient on plant protection again some pathogenic fungi within
soil.
Glomus deserticola
Adapted for drought conditions, and has shown good agronomical effect under low soil
fertility.
Glomus microaggregatum
Adapted for drought conditions, and can have agronomical effect under low soil fertility.
Glomus clarum
Adapted to acidic pH 5-6, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large quantity
of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Glomus mosseae
Adapted to acidic pH 6-8.5, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large
quantity of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Sporulation Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Inoculants
Some strains such as Glomus deserticola, Glomus microaggregatum, Glomus mosseae,
and sometime Glomus intraradices produce clusters of spores very (like a "popcorn ball").
Most of time, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum produce clusters with as
many as 500 spores minimum stuck together.
Glomus mosseae produce external sporocarps (5-10 spores inside) or
external clusters of "young spores" and Glomus dussii produce external sporocarps
(containing hundred of very small spores) and also external spores entrapped within the
external mycelium.
Glomus intraradices produce large quantity of INTERNAL spores inside the root
(hundred spores /cm of root can be counted sometime).
All these "natural occurring” sporulation configurations must be considered for the
counting of spores.
Endomycorrhizaes are not Ecto. and this difference must be
considered.
The most important aspect is the standardization of the product and
the efficiency and quality.
All information is provided in good faith and believed to be accurate (their words....awesome job of providing the public with good info!)
Some of the main Beneficials at the Root Zone
Bacillus
Several varieties of Bacillus (i.e Bacillus megaterium) have been found to play a role in the conversion of unavailable forms of phosphates into plant available forms. In natural settings they can provide near 10% of the available phosphorous in the soil solution. With increased levels of plant available phosphorous, Bacillus strains become less effective. However, if the Bacillus can sustain as a back up it may continue to provide hungry blooms with phosphorous if it should become otherwise unavailable or “locked out”. This bacterium is of special interest to organic farmers who incorporate rock phosphate into the growing medium or if introduced through fertilizer teas, preparations, etc. Rock phosphate tends to be mostly unavailable, breaking down into plant available forms over time.
Certain forms of Bacillus are known to inhibit pythium and other pathogens. One of these is bacillus subtilis and is found in Hydroguard .
Mychorhizal Fung
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked.It has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.Mycorrhizal technology has likewise made possible the production of inoculants to significantly improve the survival, growth and establishment of trees and crops.
M y•cor•rhi•zal - The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.
Nitrosomonas Bacteria
Species of aerobic bacteria which converts ammonia to nitrite. One of the critical bacteria in nitrogen cycle. Optimum pH range between 6.0 and 9.0, temperature 10oC - 34oC. Will acclimate to changes in water quality, but activity is reduced during acclimation which can lead to a build up of ammonia.
Nitrosomonas eat ammonia, they absolutely LOVE it. They Convert plant available ammonium (NH4) to unavailable nitrite (NO2).
Nitrobacteria
These bacteria convert the nitrite (NO2) resulting from the nitrification above into nitrate (NO3-), an important form of Nitrogen that all plants need.
Streptomyces
Bacteria that secrete a variety of compounds including antibiotics that prevent and control root zone pathogens. A closely related species of Streptomyces produces the antibiotic that we use, streptomycin. Many studies demonstrate the bacteria’s effectiveness at controlling root diseases, and select foliar diseases. An interesting consideration noted in one study is that they will also reduce levels of some nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
Trichoderma
Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Strains of Trichoderma are found naturally occurring in many soils can play a role in the prevention and control of root pathogens, ultimately providing a healthier soil environment which can lead to higher yields. Some research suggests that the proteins in Trichoderma can degrade chitin, which is a structural component found in pathogenic fungi such as powdery mildew and in insects.
Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Glomus dussii
Adapted to a large range of pH from 4,5 to 7, and is efficient on plant growth, and
preferably on tropical plants.
Glomus intraradices
Very common throughout the world. Shows disease resistance mechanisms against
Fusarium oxysporum.
Glomus fasciculatum
Adapted for drought conditions in high phosphorus soil. Also very effective in high
salinity conditions and is efficient on plant protection again some pathogenic fungi within
soil.
Glomus deserticola
Adapted for drought conditions, and has shown good agronomical effect under low soil
fertility.
Glomus microaggregatum
Adapted for drought conditions, and can have agronomical effect under low soil fertility.
Glomus clarum
Adapted to acidic pH 5-6, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large quantity
of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Glomus mosseae
Adapted to acidic pH 6-8.5, this specie is highly proliferous and can produce large
quantity of external mycelium in the soil and can occupy the rhizosphere.
Sporulation Characteristics of Endo Species Used:
Inoculants
Some strains such as Glomus deserticola, Glomus microaggregatum, Glomus mosseae,
and sometime Glomus intraradices produce clusters of spores very (like a "popcorn ball").
Most of time, Glomus deserticola and Glomus microaggregatum produce clusters with as
many as 500 spores minimum stuck together.
Glomus mosseae produce external sporocarps (5-10 spores inside) or
external clusters of "young spores" and Glomus dussii produce external sporocarps
(containing hundred of very small spores) and also external spores entrapped within the
external mycelium.
Glomus intraradices produce large quantity of INTERNAL spores inside the root
(hundred spores /cm of root can be counted sometime).
All these "natural occurring” sporulation configurations must be considered for the
counting of spores.
Endomycorrhizaes are not Ecto. and this difference must be
considered.
The most important aspect is the standardization of the product and
the efficiency and quality.
All information is provided in good faith and believed to be accurate (their words....awesome job of providing the public with good info!)
Some of the main Beneficials at the Root Zone
Bacillus
Several varieties of Bacillus (i.e Bacillus megaterium) have been found to play a role in the conversion of unavailable forms of phosphates into plant available forms. In natural settings they can provide near 10% of the available phosphorous in the soil solution. With increased levels of plant available phosphorous, Bacillus strains become less effective. However, if the Bacillus can sustain as a back up it may continue to provide hungry blooms with phosphorous if it should become otherwise unavailable or “locked out”. This bacterium is of special interest to organic farmers who incorporate rock phosphate into the growing medium or if introduced through fertilizer teas, preparations, etc. Rock phosphate tends to be mostly unavailable, breaking down into plant available forms over time.
Certain forms of Bacillus are known to inhibit pythium and other pathogens. One of these is bacillus subtilis and is found in Hydroguard .
Mychorhizal Fung
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked.It has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.Mycorrhizal technology has likewise made possible the production of inoculants to significantly improve the survival, growth and establishment of trees and crops.
M y•cor•rhi•zal - The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.
Nitrosomonas Bacteria
Species of aerobic bacteria which converts ammonia to nitrite. One of the critical bacteria in nitrogen cycle. Optimum pH range between 6.0 and 9.0, temperature 10oC - 34oC. Will acclimate to changes in water quality, but activity is reduced during acclimation which can lead to a build up of ammonia.
Nitrosomonas eat ammonia, they absolutely LOVE it. They Convert plant available ammonium (NH4) to unavailable nitrite (NO2).
Nitrobacteria
These bacteria convert the nitrite (NO2) resulting from the nitrification above into nitrate (NO3-), an important form of Nitrogen that all plants need.
Streptomyces
Bacteria that secrete a variety of compounds including antibiotics that prevent and control root zone pathogens. A closely related species of Streptomyces produces the antibiotic that we use, streptomycin. Many studies demonstrate the bacteria’s effectiveness at controlling root diseases, and select foliar diseases. An interesting consideration noted in one study is that they will also reduce levels of some nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
Trichoderma
Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Strains of Trichoderma are found naturally occurring in many soils can play a role in the prevention and control of root pathogens, ultimately providing a healthier soil environment which can lead to higher yields. Some research suggests that the proteins in Trichoderma can degrade chitin, which is a structural component found in pathogenic fungi such as powdery mildew and in insects.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Some innovative propagation materials are inoculated with strains of Trichoderma.Many forms of coco coir contain it naturally. CANNA's Coco Growing Media is innoculated with it. If a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. The trichoderma help to form a protective layer around the root system, helping to fend off invading pathogens, etc.
Root Health and Pathogen Control
In hydroponics we can promote a plant's rhizosphere capability by insuring it has the proper minerals, as well as a well aerated root zone to allow for good air and water movement . We also suggest using an organic amendment like Liquid Karma as well as a general enzymatic product like Hygrozyme or SensiZym from Advanced Nutrients that will encourage the proliferation of healthy rhizosphere microbes. You may also wish to use a root stimulator / stress reliever like CANNA Rhizotonic. It is a powerful, organic stress-reliever which stimulates new root development, increases resistance against disease and improves the vigour of plants.
Most root pathogens seem to be opportunistic -that is, they take advantage of weak and/or damaged roots. Thus the best defense is to keep roots healthy in the first place. In the beginning of this FAQ we went over some of the basics, those being temperature and oxygenation. We can also add a silica to the nutrient solution such as Silica Blast. Silica has been shown to greatly reduce plant death, root decay and yield losses caused by root disease. It does this by fortifying plant tissues against attack. The disease may still be present, but it is not able to do damage.
It has been found by numerous studies that plant roots colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions. Ideally the beneficial microbes out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. In soil it is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.
Using Good Microbes to fight the Bad Ones
There are a slew of new beneficial microbial products on the market, and they have a variety of effects ranging from breaking down nitrogen into useable forms to cleaning the roots to warding off negative microbiological pathogens. These good microbes also activate, enrich and stimulate the roots - they help to create beautiful fuzzy white root growth like you have never seen before.
The new array of products on the market can be confusing an misleading. We only sell products that we are familiar with and have personal experience with. Here are some of what we think are best.
Earth Ambrosia / Earth Nectar: a two-part mycorrhizal fungi innoculant - in liquid form
Down to earth mycorrhizal root innoculant: in powdered form for soil or coco
Piranha Piranha colonizes the root zone with 26 beneficial fungi (in powder form for hydro)
Tarrantula Bacterial blend of 57 microorganisms, with 1.4 billion Colony Forming Units per gram
Voodoo juice Liquid solution consisting of five strains of bacterial microbes, one is a nitrogen fixer
Botanicare Hydroguard Water treatment and pathogen supressor made of four benefical bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
The Other Route: Keeping the Reservoir Sterile
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Hydrogen Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic aditives in the reservoir. They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir.
Root Rot and Pythium
"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
Whatever you call them, these diseases attack the roots of a plant and can rapidly infect crops in all stages. Damage includes reduced yields and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in recirculating hydroponic systems as they provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of infectious spores; a single infected plant can breed and send spores to all the plants.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in.
“The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. “
Dr. Lynette Morgan, Growing Edge Magazine
"Nutrient Temperature, Oxygen and Pythium in Hydroponics"t http://www.hydromall.com/grower/pyth...droponics.html
* How to Avoid a bad case of Root Rot Monitor plants and roots frequently
* Maintain a clean system – change and sterilize reservoir weekly.
* Design your system to combat pathogens
o keep your nutrient reservoir between 68 and 72F to maximize root growth, Dissolved Oxygen levels and inhibition of Pythium. 80 degrees and above will bring on a fast case of root rot.
o Constant aeration – maintaining high dissolved oxygen levels inhibits pathogens and accelerates root growth
o keep a lid on your reservoir to keep plant matter and light out
o Maintain a low pH of 6.2 or less to inhibit pythium growth
* Use prevention!! Use tank additives to give your roots the edge they need to grow strong and healthy!! Check out the Roots and Prevention section.
Root Health and Pathogen Control
In hydroponics we can promote a plant's rhizosphere capability by insuring it has the proper minerals, as well as a well aerated root zone to allow for good air and water movement . We also suggest using an organic amendment like Liquid Karma as well as a general enzymatic product like Hygrozyme or SensiZym from Advanced Nutrients that will encourage the proliferation of healthy rhizosphere microbes. You may also wish to use a root stimulator / stress reliever like CANNA Rhizotonic. It is a powerful, organic stress-reliever which stimulates new root development, increases resistance against disease and improves the vigour of plants.
Most root pathogens seem to be opportunistic -that is, they take advantage of weak and/or damaged roots. Thus the best defense is to keep roots healthy in the first place. In the beginning of this FAQ we went over some of the basics, those being temperature and oxygenation. We can also add a silica to the nutrient solution such as Silica Blast. Silica has been shown to greatly reduce plant death, root decay and yield losses caused by root disease. It does this by fortifying plant tissues against attack. The disease may still be present, but it is not able to do damage.
It has been found by numerous studies that plant roots colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions. Ideally the beneficial microbes out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. In soil it is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.
Using Good Microbes to fight the Bad Ones
There are a slew of new beneficial microbial products on the market, and they have a variety of effects ranging from breaking down nitrogen into useable forms to cleaning the roots to warding off negative microbiological pathogens. These good microbes also activate, enrich and stimulate the roots - they help to create beautiful fuzzy white root growth like you have never seen before.
The new array of products on the market can be confusing an misleading. We only sell products that we are familiar with and have personal experience with. Here are some of what we think are best.
Earth Ambrosia / Earth Nectar: a two-part mycorrhizal fungi innoculant - in liquid form
Down to earth mycorrhizal root innoculant: in powdered form for soil or coco
Piranha Piranha colonizes the root zone with 26 beneficial fungi (in powder form for hydro)
Tarrantula Bacterial blend of 57 microorganisms, with 1.4 billion Colony Forming Units per gram
Voodoo juice Liquid solution consisting of five strains of bacterial microbes, one is a nitrogen fixer
Botanicare Hydroguard Water treatment and pathogen supressor made of four benefical bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
The Other Route: Keeping the Reservoir Sterile
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Hydrogen Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic aditives in the reservoir. They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.
In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning.
Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir.
Root Rot and Pythium
"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
Whatever you call them, these diseases attack the roots of a plant and can rapidly infect crops in all stages. Damage includes reduced yields and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in recirculating hydroponic systems as they provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of infectious spores; a single infected plant can breed and send spores to all the plants.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in.
“The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. “
Dr. Lynette Morgan, Growing Edge Magazine
"Nutrient Temperature, Oxygen and Pythium in Hydroponics"t http://www.hydromall.com/grower/pyth...droponics.html
* How to Avoid a bad case of Root Rot Monitor plants and roots frequently
* Maintain a clean system – change and sterilize reservoir weekly.
* Design your system to combat pathogens
o keep your nutrient reservoir between 68 and 72F to maximize root growth, Dissolved Oxygen levels and inhibition of Pythium. 80 degrees and above will bring on a fast case of root rot.
o Constant aeration – maintaining high dissolved oxygen levels inhibits pathogens and accelerates root growth
o keep a lid on your reservoir to keep plant matter and light out
o Maintain a low pH of 6.2 or less to inhibit pythium growth
* Use prevention!! Use tank additives to give your roots the edge they need to grow strong and healthy!! Check out the Roots and Prevention section.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Bacterial slime and other horrifying nasties
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.
When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.
All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.
What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection
You will want to completely clean out your system - if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in .
If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma , but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit.
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes.
Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur.
Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to ddeal with it once it has occured!
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.
When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.
All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.
What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection
You will want to completely clean out your system - if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in .
If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma , but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit.
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes.
Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur.
Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to ddeal with it once it has occured!
kindprincess
Well-Known Member
fuckin aye mogie
nongreenthumb
Well-Known Member
The major problem with this site is that people are trying there hardest to change peoples opinion.
Have your say and then let the other person get on with it, on subjects like these you will find it hard to change someones opinion no matter how many facts you produce, people are stubborn and set in their ways. If you want to change someones opinion you have to give them yours and then let them go away and think about it. If they still dont agree with you, you tried right?
Have your say and then let the other person get on with it, on subjects like these you will find it hard to change someones opinion no matter how many facts you produce, people are stubborn and set in their ways. If you want to change someones opinion you have to give them yours and then let them go away and think about it. If they still dont agree with you, you tried right?
