*** Online Growing School 101 ***

The last grow produced some autoflower plants. So far they are looking good. Think they will be finished between the 19th and the 27th

DR. VonDankenstine said:
Theirs nothen wrong with bagseed---You may just get some killer plant out of it-------Even the Highend came from bagseed lines:hump:.
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Ok thanks for the tip now how much should I mix to a gallon of water and also how often can I feed them that mix??
 
beeker187 said:
Hey doctor is there anyway of telling the sex of a seed just by looking at it?And also when is the earliest you can tell the sex of a plant?thanx in advance
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only if the seeds are colored and labled as femanized---"GreenHouseSeeds". I will go into a couple different methods of sexing plants at different times of growth.
 
OK, I'm in, 4 power skunk seeds are soaking in distilled water.

Also one G13 Gigabud and one Diesel.
 
I took a peak at me seeds this morning and noticed that 4 are at the bottom and 5 are floating. Does this mean anything?
 
GetToked said:
I took a peak at me seeds this morning and noticed that 4 are at the bottom and 5 are floating. Does this mean anything?
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I used to think that the floaters were bad(air in seed) but found out I was wrong---You can give it a little poke to push it down in the water if you wish but not necessary.
 
As you may or may not know---soil PH should be between 6.0 and 7.0 for fast and healthy growth. That PH range will allow for fast and complete assimilation of major/minor/and micro nutrients. The following is a rough guide that will allow you to make sure your soil is in that PH range and if not, how to correct it. Most pro mix's are blended to be at 6.0 to 7.0 pH. You will need the following to test the soil PH:
Soil
Cups
PH up +
PH down -
low ppm water
PH tester

First put the soil in the cups, Then you need to mix a water solution to 6.0 pH and another one to 7 pH. Calibrate your pH pen or tester. The pour the 6.0 solution into the first cup of soil slowly and collect the run-off. Now pour the 7ph solution into the second cup of soil and check the run-off. Now check the 6.0 run-off cup and if it's below 6.0 then we will need to add some dolomite lime at the rate of 2 teaspoons per 4 liters/or gallons of soil. If the 6.0 run-off PH was above 6.0 then we need to check the run-off of the 7.0 cup.
1.---If the run-off PH of the 7.0 cup is less than or equal to 7 and the 6.0ph run-off is greater than or equal to 6 you are in the sweet spot and your soil is in the correct PH range.
2.---If the run-off of the 6.0 cup is less than 6.0 than you will need to add a little dolomite lime to raise the PH of your soil.
3.---If the PH of the run-off of the 7.0 cup is over 7 than you will need to add more peat to your soil to lower the PH of your soil.

As you can see in the pick my soil run-off of the 6.0 cup came in at 5.6 so I added 2 teaspoons of dolomite lime to 4liters of soil.
 

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OK---Your seeds have been soaking for 24 hours now and its time to plant those beautiful babies. Some may have cracked already and others not yet but it doesn't matter---they're all ready:hump:. So get your cups out and fill 3/4 with your soil mix. Next it's time to soak the soil in the cups-don't be shy with the water--it should be running out the holes in the bottom of the cups. Now--------------You are going to gently pull each seed out of the soak and place on top of the soil in the cup(Don't dig a hole----Don't push the seed into the soil------***Just lay the seed on top gently***)---now take a little pinch of soil from the side of the cup and sprinkle it over the seed.---You want to completely cover the seed but not pack it on top. Now you can put the cup in a tray with a humid-cover(spray inside of cover----you want the humidity 85 to 95%. You can also cover each cup with plastic or plastic wrap. Now you can put a small fluorescent over the top. You could put the tray or cups on a heat mat and set to 83 F but not necessary---The light will give off a little heat. You will want to keep an eye on the plants each day----They will break ground in 2 to 5 days with some stragglers taking a week. You want to leave room in the cup---don't fill it up--after the seedlings have broke ground and have a week or so under their belt we will use the space in the cup to build soil around the stem for support and strength.
 

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hey doc can i use those jiffy pot? it's a little chip you add water and it grows it has dirt in a net.
 
OK man....question bro. I got 9 seeds, and instead of putting each one in different containers can I just put them in this one for now (and space them out). It's like a 6X12 container. Could I just space them around in it until they broke ground.
Another ?en. I don't have a PH tester. Where can I get one (as cheap as possible man)
Low ppm water...how do I know?
PH up+ ??
PH down- ??...how do I know????

sorry bro....beginner here man...but let me tell you man....I'm gonna learn this shit!!!!
 
GetToked said:
OK man....question bro. I got 9 seeds, and instead of putting each one in different containers can I just put them in this one for now (and space them out). It's like a 6X12 container. Could I just space them around in it until they broke ground.
Another ?en. I don't have a PH tester. Where can I get one (as cheap as possible man)
Low ppm water...how do I know?
PH up+ ??
PH down- ??...how do I know????

sorry bro....beginner here man...but let me tell you man....I'm gonna learn this shit!!!!
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aquarium stores have cheap PH pens-----WalMart has cheap PH testing kits------Bottled water(most)/distilled water/R/O water are all low ppm water sources----If your on a really tight budget take your water from the tap and take to a pool supply store or fish place----they will usually test your water for free... you can get PH up or down from the same stores or hydro shops. you can use lemon juice as well.
 
gangjababy said:
The roots grow right thru the nets, there is no need to remove them as it might damage the roots...
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LOL-----I should have explained in more detail------Take the soil out of the plastic netting after soaking then place the soil in the cups---. The peat pucks are denser and more compact then we want---we want loose and light and more depth than the puck provides by itself for the tap-root.
 
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