Germination problem.

fatfarmer34

Well-Known Member
I recieved 10 G13xHaze 5 Super Thai Skunk 1, tried to germinate them in a damp paper towel. I put them in zip-loc bags on a towel covered germinating mat so they wouldnt get to hot, also I used PH adjusted RO water PHed to about 6. They almost all cracked within 12 hours but in the last 48 hours nothing. The tap root poked out just a little then stopped. Where did I screw up?
 

weedyoo

Well-Known Member
if seeds get to warm they will not grow just put it in a cab or draw room temp is good i have seeds germ at 60 degrees

i use paper towel in a plate tupper ware it has a cover (bought at dollar store its got 3 sections) then i put in a draw 2 or 3 days and then plant under the dirt
 

fatfarmer34

Well-Known Member
I think the germination mat cooked them, I broke a couple open, and they where just mush on the inside. I put the freebie White Widow Feminised seed in a room temp peat plug, and it is growing a nice long tail. Oh well lesson learned you dont need that much heat.
 

dpjones

Well-Known Member
The best and simplest technique is simply get phed tepid water in a cup. Drop seeds in and cover. Put cup in a warm place.

As soon as you see a tap root put the seeds into your medium.
 

bicycle racer

Well-Known Member
use a drop of superthrive in the water you use to germ it is helpful. it contains b-1 and a rooting hormone. i place my seeds in a ziplock with very moist but not wet paper towel on top of a vcr which gives off just a bit of warmth. ive also germed outdoors at 45 to 55 degrees so maybe the heat is not that needed.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
i cant see how its so bad i get a 95% germ rate consistently.

if you cant see why its bad then you did not read the info properly.
why fuck about with exposed tap roots when you can just plant the seeds straight out the packet.
you wouldent find a gardener pre germing vegatable or garden flower seeds in towels or jars of water.its totally unnessesary and much more hassle.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
Starting your seeds
permalink

Okay to all you paper towel heads and water nuts. :lol: I have been saying this for a long time now but found a site which states it nicely. Read this and don't lose any more of your precious seeds needlessly.

For an optimal germination result the seeds should be planted DIRECTLY into the substrate. We clearly advise against using pre-germination methods or soaking. Please do not place the seeds into a glass of water or in moist paper tissues. Fresh and healthy seeds prefer a nurturing and airy substrate to germinate in – just as mother nature has meant it to be. Cannabis is a plant species originating from semi-arid and temperate biotopes and the vast majority of modern cannabis hybrids contain a substantial percentage of these genetics. Cannabis seeds are not adapted to swampy wetlands, but they are suited for germinating in well drained soil/substrate. In nature they rot if they fall into a puddle of water...and there are no paper tissues lying around either. Taking into account these botanical facts, it is quite logical that by creating germination conditions that are similar to those of the natural habitat one can expect the best results.
What happens if one uses pre-germination methods?
1. Soaking seeds in water/wet paper towels is a method which can be used for old seeds (3+ years) that are drying up and losing germination power; and for pure land race equatorial strains such as from Africa. Both factors do not apply to our seeds. Fresh seeds have a healthy embryo whose cells are filled with water. But excess water causes the cells to bloat, depletes oxygen and leads to the tissue rotting away before the seed embryo can germinate. Old seeds have lost water in the cell tissue, the embryo starts to shrivel, which is why germination rates drop the older the seeds are. Therefore, old seeds (ie. 3+ years) can soak up more water before adverse conditions cause them to rot. This is one of the main reasons why various seed stock reacts differently to pre-germination methods. Especially novice growers make a lot of mistakes with pre-germination methods such as soaking seeds in water for up to 1-2 days. Even if one chooses to pre-germ seeds it has to be done correctly.
It is in a growers best interest to choose a germination method with the lowest risk of complications. Because we want customers to have the highest success rate possible we recommend the most convenient and safest method. This does not mean it is the only option. We simply believe it carries the lowest risk. In fact, planting seeds directly in the substrate is also the most plant friendly method for any type of seed stock. The reasons are explained below in paragraph 2 & 3.
2. Placing healthy & fresh seeds in water/wet tissue can lead to the development of fungi or bacteria on the seed hull. Lack of oxygen and contaminating substances in the water/wet tissue promote fungal growth which can be transported to the substrate later on. Often the seed simply rots away if left for too long in a glass of water, or wrapped up in wet tissue.
3. Once the seed sprouts in a glass of water or paper tissue it already has the taproot growing out of the cracked seed hull. While transplanting the germinated seed it is very difficult, indeed impossible, to prevent damage to the delicate taproot. Many sprouted seedlings handled in this way show retarded development, or even simply fail to appear out of the substrate after transplantation. Handling seedlings this way can impair the health & vigour of the plant for the duration of it’s life cycle - especially if other disturbing factors occur during the early stages of growth.
Professional horticulturists rarely use pre-germination methods to actually grow out the seedlings because of the shock suffered from transplanting them. For example, we use the paper tissue method only as a quick test for germination rates of aged seed stock from our genetic repository. This allows us to see beforehand how many seeds we have to put in soil to get the amount of plants we require for breeding projects.
Germinating cannabis seeds is not difficult. All you need is some basic information on what is important and everything should work out fine.




Like writing an english paper...keep it short and keep it simple. :mrgreen:
 

bicycle racer

Well-Known Member
ive planted directly into soil or rockwool also. i dont get any higher germ rates than the other way to each his own. i lose very few seeds with either method done right either method will work peace.
 

dpjones

Well-Known Member
thats a silly way to germ seeds.
germinate them right and you will be ok.
paper towels and pre soaking seeds is not nessesary and is a bad way to start seeds.
https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/176359-starting-your-seeds.html

LUDA.
Some seeds are duds ie they wont germ. That is why plp germ them first.

Imagine you want to grow 10 plants so you plant 10 seeds. What if only 9 break ground. By the time you have planted another seed in the duds place the rest of the plants could be a couple inches taller. This gap is only gonna grow bigger. You end up with un even canopy. This is bad m'kay.

I dunno about you but i like knowing which seeds pop and which dont. The cup of water method is perfectly viable. I personally have never had a problem with it and so will continue to use it.

Dp
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
Some seeds are duds ie they wont germ. That is why plp germ them first.

Imagine you want to grow 10 plants so you plant 10 seeds. What if only 9 break ground. By the time you have planted another seed in the duds place the rest of the plants could be a couple inches taller. This gap is only gonna grow bigger. You end up with un even canopy. This is bad m'kay.

I dunno about you but i like knowing which seeds pop and which dont. The cup of water method is perfectly viable. I personally have never had a problem with it and so will continue to use it.

Dp
it does not matter about seeds sprouting at different times as the plants will grow at different rates anyway its called uniform growth and there are easy ways to sort that so no matter what height each plant is you can make the canopy even.
and i know what seeds are viable before i plant them(60+seeds planted and no duds).
when you know what you are doing its quite easy.
Uniform Growth
The light intensity from artificial lights drops dramatically as the distance from the light source increases. When the plants are not of equal height, the shorter ones receive less light and consequently grow slower than the taller ones. This compounds the situation and, left to themselves, the shorter plants will stop growing and eventually die from lack of light.
It is important to keep all of the plants close to the lights. This encourages stocky, full growth and can make the difference between harvesting stems and harvesting smoking material.
One way to deal with uneven height is to line the plants up to the line of the plant tops. As the plants grow, move them to different spots in the garden to accommodate their different sizes. Or raise the shorter plants up to the lights by placing them on milk crates, tin cans, bricks, etc.
The quality and quantity of light emitted by a fluorescent is strongest in the middle and weaker toward the ends of the tube. Female plants require more light than males. Once the genders of the plants become clear, move the males to the ends of the system, thus leaving the stronger middle light for the females.
LUDACRIS.
;-)
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
How can I tell if my bag seeds are healthy?

Fresh seeds have a waxy glimmer and a hard, intact shell.
Colours range from a buff through a dark brown, and from light grey to almost black colours. Often seeds are mottled with brown or black spots, or lines on a lighter field.

Green or whitish seeds are usually immature and will germinate feebly if at all.
Shiny, very dark brown or black seeds often mean the contents are fermented and the embryo is dead. Fermented seeds crush easily with finger pressure and are hollow or dusty inside.

Brick or compressed cannabis seeds must be checked as seeds that are bruised or crushed are not viable.
LUDA.
 

dpjones

Well-Known Member
it does not matter about seeds sprouting at different times as the plants will grow at different rates anyway its called uniform growth and there are easy ways to sort that so no matter what height each plant is you can make the canopy even.
and i know what seeds are viable before i plant them(60+seeds planted and no duds).
when you know what you are doing its quite easy.
Uniform Growth
The light intensity from artificial lights drops dramatically as the distance from the light source increases. When the plants are not of equal height, the shorter ones receive less light and consequently grow slower than the taller ones. This compounds the situation and, left to themselves, the shorter plants will stop growing and eventually die from lack of light.
It is important to keep all of the plants close to the lights. This encourages stocky, full growth and can make the difference between harvesting stems and harvesting smoking material.
One way to deal with uneven height is to line the plants up to the line of the plant tops. As the plants grow, move them to different spots in the garden to accommodate their different sizes. Or raise the shorter plants up to the lights by placing them on milk crates, tin cans, bricks, etc.
The quality and quantity of light emitted by a fluorescent is strongest in the middle and weaker toward the ends of the tube. Female plants require more light than males. Once the genders of the plants become clear, move the males to the ends of the system, thus leaving the stronger middle light for the females.
LUDACRIS.
;-)
What ure saying is all very true but its situational aswell. A first time grower isnt going to want to mess around with lsting or topping etc. They might not be able to change the height of the plants.

Plants planted at the same time may grow at different rates but the gap would be marginal.

A novice grower would probably not be able to spot a dud seed even if he read up a lot on it. Most people coming to these forums for help will be first time growers aswell.

What is needed is one simple method which gives the same results time and time again. No offence but what you are talking about is not simple to first timers.

"Keep it short keep it simple"
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
What ure saying is all very true but its situational aswell. A first time grower isnt going to want to mess around with lsting or topping etc. They might not be able to change the height of the plants.

Plants planted at the same time may grow at different rates but the gap would be marginal.

A novice grower would probably not be able to spot a dud seed even if he read up a lot on it. Most people coming to these forums for help will be first time growers aswell.

What is needed is one simple method which gives the same results time and time again. No offence but what you are talking about is not simple to first timers.

"Keep it short keep it simple"
what are you joking??????????.
i just explained about maintaining uniform growth.
i planted 10 seeds into soil and they all sprouted within 4 days (7 in 3 days and the other 3 on day 4).
and not one plant is the same size as the other and yes they are all premium seeds of the same strain(10 pack) from the same packet/seed distributor.
everyone who knows about growing knows its very rare to get a few plants sprouted at the same date will grow at the same rate.
males usually grow taller(FACT) but not always the case i have 10 plants and of the 2 tallest 1 is looking male and one is deffinately fem.
NO TWO SEEDS/PLANTS ARE IDENTICAL.
FACT.
LUDA.
:-P
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
GENETICS AND SEX IN CANNABIS.
Sex is an inherited trait in Cannabis, and can be explained in much the same terms as human sexuality can. Like a human being, Cannabis is a diploid organism: its chromosomes come in pairs. Chromosomes are microscopic structures within the cells on which the genes are aligned. Cannabis has 10 pairs of chromosomes (n=10), for a total of 20 chromosomes (2m=20).
One pair of chromosomes carries the primary genes that determine sex. These chromosomes are labelled either X or Y. Male plants have an XY pair of sex chromosomes. Females have XX. Each parent contribute one set of 10 chromosomes, which includes one sex chromosome, to the embryo. The sex chromosome carried by the female ovule can only be X. The one carried by pollen of the male plant may be either X or Y. From the pollen, the embryo has a 50/50 chance of receiving an X, likewise for Y; hance, male and female progeny appear in equal numbers (in humans, the sperm carries either an X or a Y chromosome.)
Flowering
Male Plant Under natural light, males usually start to flower from one to four weeks before the females. Where the photoperiod is artificially controlled, as with electric lights, males respond quickly (in about a week) to a change to short photoperiods and usually show flowers sooner than the females.
Male flowers develop quickly, in about one to two weeks on a vigorous plant, not uniformly. Scattered flowers may open a week or more before and after the general flowering, extending the flowering stage to about four weeks.
The flowering stage continues to demonstrate the male's tall, relatively sparse growth. Most of the flowers develop near the top of the plant, well above the shorter females. The immature flower buds first appear at the tips of the main stem and branches. Then tiny branches sprout from the leaf axils, bearing smaller clusters of flowers. The immature male flowers are closed, usually green, and develop in tight clusters of knob-like buds. The main parts of the male flowers are five petal-like sepals which enclose the sexual organs. As each flower matures, the sepals open in a radiating pattern to reveal five pendulous anthers (stamens).
Inside the ovoid, sac-shaped anthers, pollen grains develop. Initially, pollen sifts through two pores near the top of the anther; then, starting from the pores, longitudinal slits slowly open (zipperlike) over the course of a day, releasing pollen to the wind. Once a flower sheds pollen, it shortly dies and falls from the plant. Normally, male plants begin to die one to two weeks after the bulk of their flowers have shed pollen. Healthy males may continue to flower for several more weeks, but secondary growth seldom has the vigour of initial bloom.

Female Plant
The female plant generally starts to flower later than the male, under either natural light or an artificially controlled photoperiod. Female marijuana plants flower when the average daily photoperiod is less then about 12 to 13 hours. However, some varieties and individuals may flower with a photoperiod of over 14 hours. Some Colombian varieties may not respond until the photoperiod falls below 12 hours for a period of up to three weeks.
The duration of flowering also depends on the particular rhythm of the variety, as well as growing conditions, and whether or not the plant is pollinated. Within these variables, females maintain vigorous growth and continue to rapidly form flowers for a period that ranges from 10 days to about eight weeks.
Females generally do not grow much taller during flowering. Growth emphasises a "filling out," as flower clusters develop from each leaf axil and growing tip. Normally, the flowers arise in pairs, but the pairs form tight cluster of 10 to over 100 individual flowers that are interspersed with small leaves. These clusters are the "buds" of commercial marijuana. Along the top of the main stem and vigorous branches, "buds" may form so thickly that the last foot or more of stem is completely covered. Usually the leaves that accompany the flowers tend toward simpler structure, until each leaf has one to three blades.
The visible parts of the female flower are two upraised stigmas, one-quarter to one-half inch long, usually white or cream, sometimes tinged with red, that protrude from a tiny, green, pod-shaped structure called the floral bract. This consists of modified leaves (bracts and bracteoles) which envelop the ovule or potential seed. The mature bract is a tiny structure, about 1/8 inch across and 1/4 inch long. When fertilised, a single seed begins to develop within the bract, which then swells until it is split by the mature seed.
Bracts are covered more densely with large resin glands than is any other part of the plant, and are the most potent part of the harvest. Resin glands may also be seen on the small leaves that are interspersed among the flowers.
The differences between male and female Cannabis become more apparent as the plants mature. The same can be said of the differences between varieties. Often, two varieties may appear to be similar, until they actually flowers and fill out to different forms. These appear in many ways: some varieties maintain opposite phyllotaxy with long internodes throughout flowering; bud sizes vary from about one-half inch to about three inches, with a norm of about one to two inches; buds may be tightly arranged along the stem, yielding a "cola" two feet long and four inches thick; and some varieties only form buds along their main stem and branch tips, with a few "buds" forming along the branches.
LUDACRIS.
:-P:-P
 

dpjones

Well-Known Member
Plants planted at the same time may grow at different rates but the gap would be marginal.

Since i just had to quote myself its very obvious you are not reading what other people are saying properly (FACT).

Shame we couldnt have had a discussion on germing without someone getting all mightier than thou.

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