Molasses VS. Honey for flowering for bigger nugs???

Intcorquad

Member
Now i've been reading some posts that molasses helps nugs get fatter by up to as much as 20%. They were saying this is true due to the fact that sugars are available when needed for the plant by the molasses.

Then i came to thinking, what about using honey? It actually has a higher sugar content than molasses does. One cup of molasses 187g of sugar as opposed to 278g of sugar for honey. Now if what these people are saying is true and it really is the sugar that makes the nugs fatter, then honey would work better than molasses.

OR it may NOT be the actual sugar that makes the nugs fatter and it may be the nutrient and mineral content of which molasses has a higher mineral content than honey does. Molasses also has 974g of carbs and honey has 279g of carbs. Now it also may be the carbohydrate content ??? as i have seen a product called carbo load from i believe advanced nutrients that deals with carbs or whatever.

So with all this being said what do you guys think?? I'd appreciate it if only people that have experience with this commented that actually know about nutrients and minerals and all that and gave their two sense on the matter. thanks a lot, happy smokin bongsmilie

P.S. Wanted to add this also. Plants make their own sugars so why would sugar be a factor in helping the buds get fatter??? Some insite on his post please. Thx
 

Geozander

Well-Known Member
It is not only the sugar content as you say. Mollasses is a chelate, meaning it aids your plant in the uptake of nutes. The contents of the molasses also feed the beneficial bacteria in the soil too, it does give the plant some much needed energy during growing/flowering. Would stay away from the honey, keep it for your toast.
 

my420bud

Active Member
See plants do make there own sugar but its just enough to survive, Giving malasis is like givng it extra boost. Like a miracle grow type of thing.. i have never heard anything about honey bieng used so i cant helop with that... i had molasas on my plants last season and they did grow bigger, but not like HUGE. idk if that helps you or not..
 

shylas

Active Member
MOLASSES!!!!!!! TRY AND SEE. Results are almost immediate!!
MOlasses is a sugar byproduct that has qualities similar to the microrganisms the plants need.
Or something to that effect. lol
 

shylas

Active Member
I use it alone 1tspb per gallon for every other feeding or 2 tsp per gallon for every wattering.
As far as I know it doesn't change your ppm.
 

thechoroid

Active Member
Any specific type of molasses. I just bought my girls some pomegrenate molasses, will it do the trick? and 1tbsp per gallong of waterwith together with the nutes or alone?
 

Intcorquad

Member
also i didnt buy organic black strap molasses, i just bought grandmas original molasses from jewel (walmart has it to), is that ok ???
 

Big Worms Way

Active Member
As long as it's unsulfured. thats what I use.
back to the original topic though. has anyone tried honey? does this also have chelates? i dont know much about either one but i'm very interested in this topic. So you say results are almost immediate shylas? what if you are say 4-5 weeks in on an outdoor crop? also is the ratios the same for outdoor? thanks!bongsmilie
 

Intcorquad

Member
i just got done reading a part in a book and it said that using honey is like using molasses and it makes the nugs fatter because of the sugar.
 

Brick Top

New Member
“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic
production
Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc.


ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:

a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]

The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.

Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars
and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is
essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the
sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant
at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil
moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit
formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing
terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the
number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take
up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc-
tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
-
MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table
sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides
found in humus products.

- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most
effective.

* In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more
efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to
supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly
feed the roots for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation
of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.
Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as
adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the
induced fruit can mature.
 

Big Worms Way

Active Member
yeah i'm talkin outdoe tho. so if you disolve the honey in warm or even hot water then allow it to cool overnight is their a problem? honey dissolves rather quickly in warm water, i.e . tea. I have never tried molasses either tho and would think that it would take a while for it to dissolve in cold water also? just a thought. thanks for the input whatever the case may be.
 

i.NeeD.A.LiGhTeR

Well-Known Member
I have never tried molasses either tho and would think that it would take a while for it to dissolve in cold water also? just a thought. thanks for the input whatever the case may be.
IDK, I just fill the gallon jugs with like 2 cups hot water, drop in my 2 tbsp of molasses shake it up then fill the jug the rest of the way with cold water, shake again... use your head.

:peace:
 

Intcorquad

Member
molasses is easy to dissolve i just did it today i used 1tsp in a gallon of warm water (not hot) and shook and it dissolved easy, i'll test honey tomorrow. the book i read that talked about honey "very" briefly came from borders about growing indoors/outdoors marijuana horticulture or something it was called, really cool book.
 
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