The Official House and Garden Thread

[jberry]

House and Garden and the Humbolt line are the same thing . . . .

interesting, i havent heard that one yet... your talkin base nutes only right?

what is your source for this info?

 

[NewGrowth]

interesting, i havent heard that one yet...
what is your source for this info?

Hydroponic Distributor said so because we inquired about them. They just said "The Humbolt line is the same thing". It's true they are just re-packaged a bit for the North American market. You can look it up on the Humbolt/H&G site and if you look at the bottles you will notice some of them are exactly the same. Example being the "Roots" product that both comes in that small grey bottle and is VERY expensive.

I'm not knocking the nutrients but they are VERY expensive kind of like Advanced Nutrients with a 100 million different additives, "boosters", ect. Just seems like a marketing scheme to me.

 

[jberry]

thanks, i'll check into it...
humboldt has A LOT more products then H&G.......

i can say, when i started adding roots exelerator to my aero cloner, there was a huge increase in root mass with out a doubt ( it is expencive, so i would not use it unless i could really see a difference) If you have 2 aero set up, then you can add it to one and not the other to see the difference for yourself.
I believe it is the hormones and not the NPK that makes this product work well, and im sure its way overpriced as u say, BUT it does work well.

i am not a fan of A.N. at all........ rip off.

Cutting Edge works well in all grow mediums and is not too pricey and very easy to use (no ph adjustment)....

im in week 4 of some side by side comparasons using many blue dream clones : I got H&G vs. Canna vs. Cutting Edge............ if i had to pick a winner right now based on how the plants look, i would go with Cutting Edge, but i would still use roots exl.

 

[NewGrowth]

Cool I use a product called "Kick-Start" in my cloner reservoir. It is just a mild nutrient, that along with Superthrive seems to do the trick for me. I've heard good stuff about the roots I just have a hard time throwing down that much money on it.

 

[Bob Smith]

Here are a couple of pics..the first is inside..second from the outside. The level is below the float right now.
I put a splitter in my line and a second res with another float for my veg room nutes. I have been running with floats in both res and they work great. I used the dripline valve to shut off the ro water to either of the res if I don't want to fill both.
I shut off the water to the res after I mix nutes and feed because I only use 1/2 of my large res per watering.. the small res I only fill once a week right now.

Lol, thanks very much

Unfortunately, turned my filter on last night, the knocked myself out cold with a hammer and forgot about it...............woke up this morning to some water issues - not that bad, though, just seems like my 1000HPS ballast is ruined.

Grrrrrrrrrr...................

 

[#1Raiderfan420]

Lol, thanks very much

Unfortunately, turned my filter on last night, the knocked myself out cold with a hammer and forgot about it...............woke up this morning to some water issues - not that bad, though, just seems like my 1000HPS ballast is ruined.

Grrrrrrrrrr...................

Oh shit, that sucks. I am sorry to hear that Man.

 

[Bob Smith]

Oh shit, that sucks. I am sorry to hear that Man.

Hey, no worries man

Bought a cheapo $170 magnetic ballast to hold me over until I buy my whole new setup, so it's no biggie.

More worried about the pounding headache I've still got and the massive gash above my eye - I actually took a picture of it before I cleaned it off (had the camera handy because I document all the building I do for my journal) - that shit looked mean.

 

[Hulk Nugs]

Was wondering if anyone has some insight on my probelm

Been checking my res and all i can see is the res temp changes from lights off68 to lights on75.

Not sure it thats the problem but i plan on trying to get my res out of the light kinda hard since my res and ebbatable are one in the same. Did a water check at 8 pm and it was good at 830 so let it go all night checked it in the 6am morning and all the numbers changed agian.

EC was .9 went up to 1.1

ppm was 480 went up to 580

PH was 5.6 went up to 6.5

not sure if only heat/light will cause this changes in numbers but i dont want to be checking/fixing the water every day.

Any thoughts ????

Thanks for any help.

 

[jberry]

probably the temp change?
if your ph/ec meter doesnt adjust for temp. then i think that will give you different readings at different temps.

light, combined with nutrients and water may cause algae but if you arent getting algae then i dont THINK it would cause any changes in ph/ec.

also here is a chart that may help if you recycle your feed water:

Basic cheat sheet:
Ec goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
Ec goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
Ec stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang.

the chart doesnt seem to apply in this situation but its good to have.

 

[KnowledgeSeeker]

Been checking my res and all i can see is the res temp changes from lights off68 to lights on75.

EC was .9 went up to 1.1

ppm was 480 went up to 580

PH was 5.6 went up to 6.5

not sure if only heat/light will cause this changes in numbers but i dont want to be checking/fixing the water every day.

Any thoughts ????

Thanks for any help.

Did the total liquid amount decrease? I.e. if you have 40 gal of solution did it decrease to 38 gal in the morning?

How long ago did you mix up the nutes? What additives are you using? Are you using strictly H&G or you using other products as well?

I've noticed that for me it takes about 24 hours for the pH of a newly mixed batch on nutes to settle. I did email the distributor about it and their response was:

"The additives are causing the ph to raise. They are absorbed by the plants within 48 hours, your ph should stabilize after that."

~KS

 

[Hulk Nugs]

probably the temp change?
if your ph/ec meter doesnt adjust for temp. then i think that will give you different readings at different temps.

light, combined with nutrients and water may cause algae but if you arent getting algae then i dont THINK it would cause any changes in ph/ec.

also here is a chart that may help if you recycle your feed water:

Basic cheat sheet:
Ec goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
Ec goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
Ec stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang.

the chart doesnt seem to apply in this situation but its good to have.

Thanks allot for the chart that is really good to have.

The water only gets light when the plants are getting waterd in the ebbaflow table, I might even fill my table with pellets, noticed the roots are already coming threw the bottom of the pots a little and i still have 8 weeks to go i dont want them to start coming out of the bottom into the light.

My EC/PPM meter is not that good but it works, and i can calibrate it. So i wil stick with it tell it dies

 

[Hulk Nugs]

Did the total liquid amount decrease? I.e. if you have 40 gal of solution did it decrease to 38 gal in the morning?

How long ago did you mix up the nutes? What additives are you using? Are you using strictly H&G or you using other products as well?

I've noticed that for me it takes about 24 hours for the pH of a newly mixed batch on nutes to settle. I did email the distributor about it and their response was:

"The additives are causing the ph to raise. They are absorbed by the plants within 48 hours, your ph should stabilize after that."

~KS

I dont believe so i only have a 7 gallon res that i fill with 5 gallons and water only 4 - 6 inchs clones, so i believe all the 5 gallons is there maybe not a little but almost all of it.

Mix up a batch of water/nutes let it sit for 5 mins check all my readings if there good then i add water to the res. Yes i am using all of HG line nothing else.

So your saying mix your nute batch of water a day before you are going to switch water or give it to the plants??

Just did a new water change today, first did my A/B let that sit for a bit then checked my ph/ppm/ec adjusted to the right numbers. Started adding the extras(rootexcel,multi zen,clean drip) waited a few mins then checked my ph/ppm/ec and they still looked good PH didnt change.

Also having a little problem with nutes in flowering, since i just put my clones right into flowering, they only got two weeks of veg time with other nutes if any. So trying to start them in flowering right now and go by what the chart says to feed them dam dam dam i can see the yellow/limegreen just start taking over the leaves almost right before my eyes(this water change went by the chart dam soon as the plants came in contact with the water the leaves started changing colors right before my eyes)had to put 1/4 gallon of RO water to back the nutes off a little. So guess i can go by the chart but just back it off by one week

 

[guitarabuser]

Was wondering if anyone has some insight on my probelm

First things first, have you cal'ed your ppm meter? I had wild fluctuations with mine until I cal'ed it. Now I make sure to do it weekly.

I have two of the Megagardens in my closet grow. You have to remember that a 7 gal res is pretty small. Once my girls get past the seedling stage, they will drink down over an inch and a half of water per day (around two gallons). When this happens, the EC will go up since they take up more water than nutes. This means you may want to cut your nutes slightly until you see the res level drop and the EC stay roughly the same.

You should top off your res with the full 7 gallons. I started doing this and it keeps the EC and PH from swinging wildly. Basically fill your res until you can see water touching the red cap where your pump is mounted.

Hope this helps.

 

[guitarabuser]

So guess i can go by the chart but just back it off by one week

I had alot of issues following the feed charts at first as well. The problem I had was that the H&G chart I was using only told how much of everything to add. It did not specify an EC level weekly. I finally got it down to this:

1. Fill res with water until it is about 1 gallon short of max (I'm talking about the Megagarden here).
2. Add Aquaflakes A and circulate for 10 mins with the overflow tube out.
3. Add Aquaflakes B and circulate for 10 mins with the overflow tube out.
4. Add A and B as necessary to get to your target EC
5. Adjust PH while circulating. The small 7 gal res will stabilize alot faster than most. Usually, mine is stabile within 15 mins.
6. Add Roots Excel, Multizyme, whatever. Don't worry about your EC. Set your EC with the base nutrients. The EC might be over your target with the additives, but it does not matter. The exception to this is when you are using shooting powder. You should adjust your EC to 1.2 or lower, add the shooting powder pre mixed (I use 1 sachet to a gallon of RO water, then use 1 quart for ever sachet called for on the chart) then add more Aquaflakes until you hit your EC target.

It helps make things easier if you create a EC chart using a gallon of your RO water. Just start with a gallon of water and add 1ml of Aquaflakes at a time and take an EC reading. Chart it and you will always know where the ballpark is.

By the way, here is the EC schedule I'm using right now:
Week 1: 1.6 EC
Week 2: 1.7 EC
Week 3: 1.8 EC
Week 4: 1.9 EC
Week 5: 1.8 EC
Week 6: 1.7 EC
Week 7: 1.4-1.5 EC
Week 8: 1.4-1.5 EC
Week 9 Flush
PH is 5.5 all the way through.

 

[Hulk Nugs]

thanks for all the help guitarabuser!! If you have a thread going for your grow post up a link i would like to fallow.


I will be trying all of that see what works.

 

[KnowledgeSeeker]

Mix up a batch of water/nutes let it sit for 5 mins check all my readings if there good then i add water to the res. Yes i am using all of HG line nothing else.

So your saying mix your nute batch of water a day before you are going to switch water or give it to the plants??

For flower, I drain the res after the last water during lights on and mix a new batch. Just before the next water (15 hours later) I adjust the pH. At the end of that lights on I usually have to adjust the pH again before it stabilizes. For veg I do the same but there is only about 9 hours between so I have to check a couple times during the first day to adjust. But my Res is a 55 gallon so it may just take longer to thoroughly mix.

Just did a new water change today, first did my A/B let that sit for a bit then checked my ph/ppm/ec adjusted to the right numbers. Started adding the extras(rootexcel,multi zen,clean drip) waited a few mins then checked my ph/ppm/ec and they still looked good PH didnt change.

That's good.

Also having a little problem with nutes in flowering, since i just put my clones right into flowering, they only got two weeks of veg time with other nutes if any. So trying to start them in flowering right now and go by what the chart says to feed them dam dam dam i can see the yellow/limegreen just start taking over the leaves almost right before my eyes(this water change went by the chart dam soon as the plants came in contact with the water the leaves started changing colors right before my eyes)had to put 1/4 gallon of RO water to back the nutes off a little. So guess i can go by the chart but just back it off by one week

Does the yellow/limegreen show on all the leaves or does it start at the top or at the bottom? Is it intervienal chlorosis (yellowing) or is it the entire leaf? Pics would be helpful.

 

[Hulk Nugs]

Does the yellow/limegreen show on all the leaves or does it start at the top or at the bottom? Is it intervienal chlorosis (yellowing) or is it the entire leaf? Pics would be helpful.

The leaves start from the veins then spread out to the tips of the leaves. it goes from top to bottom within a few mins.

I took some pics, but you cannot really see the color good, my cam. sucks at pics.

Check out the Link in the sig for Blue dream that’s the grow in progress.

Thanks for all the help!!!

 

[KnowledgeSeeker]

The leaves start from the veins then spread out to the tips of the leaves. it goes from top to bottom within a few mins.

If it starts at the top in the younger leaves then I would investigate the immobile nutrients.

"These nutrients are further divided into the mobile and immobile nutrients. A plant will always supply more nutrients to its younger leaves than its older ones, so when nutrients are mobile, the lack of nutrients is first visible on older leaves. When a nutrient is less mobile, the younger leaves suffer because the nutrient does not move up to them but stays lower in the older leaves. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are mobile nutrients, while the others have varying degrees of mobility." - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_nutrition

 

[Hulk Nugs]

Magic Green
House & Garden Magic Green is a boost for mother plants, rooted and un- rooted cuttings and growing plants. Magic Green is delivered to your plant via a plant sprayer. It is absorbed directly by the leaves and returns dark green colour and vitality to plants. Magic Green is a gentle plant agent which works within two days.

Dilution Rates
10ml of Magic Green will make 1ltr of foliar spray.
1ltr of Magic Green will make over 100ltrs of foliar solution.

Product Information
House & Garden Magic Green is a 100% biological plant booster that not only provides nutrients for the leaf, but also protects against external threats from insects and moulds. Every application of Magic Green forms a kind of wax film on leaves to prevent insects and mould from damaging the plant. Magic Green will also enhance the plant’s natural balance. As Magic Green contains all main and trace elements, it may provide a temporary solution when the substrate is over fertilized causing root blockages and preventing the roots from absorbing nutrients. This makes it an excellent solution to help the plant through difficult periods.

Application
Use a plant sprayer to deliver the foliar spray to the leaves. Spray the under and over side of the leaf and allow to dry. Dilute the Magic Green with fresh water and only spray in low light conditions to prevent leaves from burning. Only use Magic Green one or twice a week as it may cause roots to be underdeveloped.

Sizes Available
250ml, 500ml, 1ltr

Copy and past from http://www.ukhouseandgarden.co.uk/hg_magicgreen.html

 

[Hulk Nugs]

Grrr dont you hate when you type a shit load on here then do somthing stupid and loose it all grrrr i hate my self right now grrr oh well move on this is going to be allot shorter

If you know about Foliar Sprays or just Magic Green any help is appricated.

::Questions::


When do you stop using Magic Green???

Does every one go by the bottels directions, spray it right before lights out??

Was thinking wet plants in the dark would cause mold.