10 x 15 Stealth Attic Growroom.

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Those light dont look adjustable, which they should be. Also add some reflectors. kinda hard to see video

I've updated my last post with some good videos..

There adjustable believe dat. See the MH in the middle, it's on this rigid flexible conduit I found, it's pretty tite I can flex stick it any way I want and it stays. I like it for now.
I had to special order more, as the spot I found it only had one. I rigged up this ghetto setup until I get what I really want. Which will be adjustable air cooled tubes.

I know they "should be" I'm already in for over three and a half G's bro... Easier said than done sometimes. I'm still quite obviously in the middle of working right?
In fact...
now that you bring it up, that's part of what needs to be designed into the ventilation system. Any ideas?

 

[Jeffdogg]

Very Nice stadium setup mate.

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Very Nice stadium setup mate.

Thanks JeffDawg, Welcome aboard!

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Alright everyone lets hear those ventilation design ideas? Super rep for someone who helps come up with a solution.

 

[Jeffdogg]

got a portable ac unit, a couple house fans (the wall mountable ones are nice), some Co2 and forget the in/out vents closed environment agriculture is the best imo. Ever watch urbangrower?

http://urbangrower.com/
Awesome show

 

[jigfresh]

Alright Mon3ybags... you want ventilation help... i got ventilation help... I hope, haha.

What I'm thinking would be easiest with wanting to air cool the lights and have them adjustable is to draw the air from the room itself... so as to not have to hook into an intake.

For the lights themselves I'm picturing 3 cooltubes... all hooked together and fixed to an adjustable arm.

I guess you should put the carbon filter first, before the lights, so the air going outside doesn't smell.

The other plan would be to keep the lights in their own ventilation system... but that would require another exhaust fan for the room... and the lights would need a fresh air intake.

Let me know if that makes sense.... I'll draw pics and stuff so you know what I mean.

 

[wonderblunder]

Ventilation.......
What are the temps like in your area? Summer and Winter? What are the temps in the room without any HIDS? NIght and day?
I would definitely get some large box fans or pedestal based fans and mount them on the ceiling(upside down if pedestal base). Hang box fans on bungie cords to eliminate noise.

Once you fill in the temps it would be much easier. I would say a portable AC and solid intake and exhaust. I can control 1800ws of HID and 700ws of flourescents with my portable AC down to 60 degrees if I would like.

I would definitely pick up some air filter to put over the intake. I like the ones that are meant for furnaces and what not. They are square, in various sizes and are about 1" thick. HEPA filters.

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

great thoughts guys, keep them coming. I'm heading to the hardware store... bbl

 

[fatman7574]

Borosilicate Glass for cool tubes. They are sold in 5 foot lengths but they will cut at request to any lengths: http://www.winshipdesigns.com/home/ws3/smartlist_35/oversized_clear_tube.html
Cool tubes are nice as they lower the heat out put so that you can hang the bulbcloser to the plants. They will usually not remove enough heat to allow for low enough temps for a grow not using CO2. Even wiyh out the lights running you are quite likely to rach ten mpsin the mid to high seventies in an attic (house peak). A window airconditioner can drop the temps down easily and can easily be converted into a remote exhausted air conditioner by using some foam board and ducy ting. It does usually require you use the little cheap induct duct booster fans to make up for the ducting resistance. A window air conditioner usually costs 25% to 35% of the cost of a two hose portable unit. The airconditioner also dehumidifies so the water must be coaught and dumped regularly. Even a small air conditioner 5000 btu running part time can remove a couple gallons of water daily.

 

[wonderblunder]

Borosilicate Glass for cool tubes. They are sold in 5 foot lengths but they will cut at request to any lengths: http://www.winshipdesigns.com/home/ws3/smartlist_35/oversized_clear_tube.html
Cool tubes are nice as they lower the heat out put so that you can hang the bulbcloser to the plants. They will usually not remove enough heat to allow for low enough temps for a grow not using CO2. Even wiyh out the lights running you are quite likely to rach ten mpsin the mid to high seventies in an attic (house peak). A window airconditioner can drop the temps down easily and can easily be converted into a remote exhausted air conditioner by using some foam board and ducy ting. It does usually require you use the little cheap induct duct booster fans to make up for the ducting resistance. A window air conditioner usually costs 25% to 35% of the cost of a two hose portable unit. The airconditioner also dehumidifies so the water must be coaught and dumped regularly. Even a small air conditioner 5000 btu running part time can remove a couple gallons of water daily.

Nice link on the tubes. Been toying with the idea but haven't found anything as nice as those.....

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Borosilicate Glass for cool tubes. They are sold in 5 foot lengths but they will cut at request to any lengths: http://www.winshipdesigns.com/home/ws3/smartlist_35/oversized_clear_tube.html
.

Hell yeah! These look like something to seriously consider, especially considering the geometry of the two rooms. I could easily work these into an adjustable set of hooks on the ceiling and just adjust the whole light fixture as necessary. Eventually I'd like to be on a mover.

I could just have the tubes cut into three pieces of one and a half foot sections. This would give me lots of room to modify them to hold the mogul base properly, and also to be able to attach my flexible ducting to the ends of these tube. This should work out best. I was considering originally considering these http://www.save-on-crafts.com/glcycash10in.html but there really just not long enough.
Thanks for the great suggestion!

I'll be adding these for sure. So, sounds like the main thing is how to design the ventilation system with these hypothetical cool tube integrated into the network of the cooling system?

The main issue I see is is how to work in the carbon filter into the system.

Second; Flow of air, and routing of the hvac system. should I go around the two rooms or build a box all the way down the center trusses an route ventilation off of that to the lights?

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

got a portable ac unit, a couple house fans (the wall mountable ones are nice), some Co2 and forget the in/out vents closed environment agriculture is the best imo. Ever watch urbangrower?

http://urbangrower.com/
Awesome show

No but there site looked tite! I unfortunately was unable to watch there quick time videos for now... I probably need the new patch...
Anyway... THANKS, looks good & I'll check it out soon...

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

What I'm thinking would be easiest with wanting to air cool the lights and have them adjustable is to draw the air from the room itself... so as to not have to hook into an intake.

Interesting...
This could work, Like was done in the seemorebuds video. However, I don't have a 1200-2000cfm fan like they did. I doubt that my 435cfm would be able to kick that much ass. I'm afraid it would end up running non stop and still be a losing battle against crawling temps. Hmm... maybe I could make it 12 hours...??? This is good. A definitely possibility while running Co2.

For the lights themselves I'm picturing 3 cooltubes... all hooked together and fixed to an adjustable arm.

Great thought! That's exactly it. Ridged ducting in the two spaces between the three tubes, and flexible arms that connect back into the "Y's" at the ends of the system.

I guess you should put the carbon filter first, before the lights, so the air going outside doesn't smell.

Yes, very important as I would like to send the hot, stinky air into the short space between the ceiling and the roof of my house. That way the soffit vents can take care of cooling the air once it's outside the room.

The other plan would be to keep the lights in their own ventilation system... but that would require another exhaust fan for the room... and the lights would need a fresh air intake.

So the million dollar question is...
Is there no way to work all these functions into one intake, cooling, odor filtering, and exhaust super system that completes all tasks at once, while only running the one 435 I have? This seemingly would have to be a senario where the fan runs all the time that the lights are on... +125 watts during those hours.

Let me know if that makes sense.... I'll draw pics and stuff so you know what I mean.

Makes perfect sense to me.

What about something like this

 

[Jeffdogg]

No but there site looked tite! I unfortunately was unable to watch there quick time videos for now... I probably need the new patch...
Anyway... THANKS, looks good & I'll check it out soon...

Youtube has most of their episodes starting around 15 I think
http://www.youtube.com/user/urbangrower?blend=1&ob=4

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Nice! I'll check it out.

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

Ventilation.......
What are the temps like in your area? Summer and Winter? What are the temps in the room without any HIDS? NIght and day?
I would definitely get some large box fans or pedestal based fans and mount them on the ceiling(upside down if pedestal base). Hang box fans on bungie cords to eliminate noise.

Once you fill in the temps it would be much easier. I would say a portable AC and solid intake and exhaust. I can control 1800ws of HID and 700ws of flourescents with my portable AC down to 60 degrees if I would like.

I would definitely pick up some air filter to put over the intake. I like the ones that are meant for furnaces and what not. They are square, in various sizes and are about 1" thick. HEPA filters.

30-55 winter degrees
55-90 summer degree

Room temps now with no hids, 55-60 pretty consistent. 43 outside right now.

I've got a bunch of fans already. One centrifugal air circulation 435 cfm. A oscillating stand fan, and a wall mounted fan I just haven't hung yet.

I do aslo have a 10,000btu window air conditioning unit.
I would like to avoid using this beast at if all possible as it is very cumbersome, and also a power hungry vampire who sucks off the supple moneystaxx..

 

[fatman7574]

With temps no higher than those I would use CO2 and only worry about temps that rise above about 95 F. Cool tubes and just a small amount of ventilation through a carbon can will probably be adequate during the hottest part of summer if you run your lights at night when it is cooler.

A CO2 ppm meter is not cheap, but it is almost always cheaper to use CO2 than it is to ventilate or air condition. Plus the CO2 greatly increases your yield. Ventilation and/or air conditioning just brings your yield back up to what it should be at the cooler temperature of mid 70's. So basically CO2 increases your yield twice and does it at a lower daily cost. It brings it back to the ambient air temp level of no CO2 enrichment of mid 70's plus boost it way beyond that. Ventilation at most only allows good growth to 80 degrees F.

 

[MoN3yb4Gs]

With temps no higher than those I would use CO2 and only worry about temps that rise above about 95 F. Cool tubes and just a small amount of ventilation through a carbon can will probably be adequate during the hottest part of summer if you run your lights at night when it is cooler.

A CO2 ppm meter is not cheap, but it is almost always cheaper to use CO2 than it is to ventilate or air condition. Plus the CO2 greatly increases your yield. Ventilation and/or air conditioning just brings your yield back up to what it should be at the cooler temperature of mid 70's. So basically CO2 increases your yield twice and does it at a lower daily cost. It brings it back to the ambient air temp level of no CO2 enrichment of mid 70's plus boost it way beyond that. Ventilation at most only allows good growth to 80 degrees F.

All great info; Thanks Fatman!
I'm mean, I've got to go with the Co2......right? Soo much better yield results.

SOoo.. with that being decided...

We're still gonna be needing some kind of cooling system that doesn't suck all of the Co2 out of the room. That would require a fairly closed system for the lights. wouldn't it?
This seems to be the dilemma. How can I effectively run the Co2..

ok.. So, because Co2 is heavier than air it falls to the floors, so I'll want to position my carbon filter high in the room. Thus also minimilizing the amout of Co2 being removed from the atmosphere.

thoughts... anyone...?

 

[fatman7574]

All great info; Thanks Fatman!
I'm mean, I've got to go with the Co2......right? Soo much better yield results.

SOoo.. with that being decided...

We're still gonna be needing some kind of cooling system that doesn't suck all of the Co2 out of the room. That would require a fairly closed system for the lights. wouldn't it?
This seems to be the dilemma. How can I effectively run the Co2..

ok.. So, because Co2 is heavier than air it falls to the floors, so I'll want to position my carbon filter high in the room. Thus also minimilizing the amout of Co2 being removed from the atmosphere.

thoughts... anyone...?

Your cool tubes will draw air from out side the room and run it through the tubes. Theyrewill be no odor involved from the coo tubes. The cool tubes will remove about 60% of the heat out out from the lights so only the remaining will need to be dealth with. If you do not insulate between yur palnt room and your dwelling then most of excess heat wll go throgh that adjoining wall and can be removed after it exits the grow rrom. You can amke a b doublw all entry way with two doors. Weatherstrip the inner door draw hot air friom that entry way by not weather stripping around that door. The heat will go through the unisulated wall and be drawn off by a fan in the entry way. No odor involved, no CO2 lost. Insulate everything except the wall and door between the grow room and the outter entry way. The only air exchange is from air drawn around the outter entry door which is suck out by an exhaust fan taking the heat with it (no odor). The only air or CO2 lost from the plant room will be when you open the inner door. A carbon can can be installed on a circulating fan within the grow room for odor reduction. A fan should be on the floor blowing CO2 back up to the grow rooms peak.

 

[DazedNBlazed]

Looking fucking awesome man! I'd love to one day get something like that going.