Humboldt Nutrients ppm

[coben]

Today I mixed my secound batch of nutrients. Humboldt Nutrients master a-b and a full line of suplements this is the secound batch and I've uped the ratios even went heavy when I measured my ppm is at 480.Humboldts schedule says 600ppm.How can I up my ppm?Should I just add like a third more nutes of everything. Feeding 480ppm 5.5ph. My plants are at 600-740ppm running out of the nursery pots,and a ph of 5.8-6.18. All my plants were cloned on differnt days at a dispencery so i have several differnt medias 16oz worth transplanted into 5 gallon coco chunks. (coco is fucking amazing)Plants are between 8" and a 1' plus.Grape ape,Blue Dream,Romulan Diesel

Question recap:
1. how should I up my ppm (just add more, IDK)
2.What are some ppm guide lines for plants 1',2',3',4',5',ect

 

[coben]

BUMP! How should i safly up my ppm im using Humboldt nutrients master a&b, verde, sea cal, hum-bolt, flavorful, myan mycro zyme, prozyme and roots it just mixes to 480 ppm for me at the feed chart levels.I checked Humboldts website and found a "HEAVY" feeding scedule but It barly differs from the "MEDIUM" feeding scedule

 

[Dan Kone]

BUMP! How should i safly up my ppm im using Humboldt nutrients master a&b, verde, sea cal, hum-bolt, flavorful, myan mycro zyme, prozyme and roots it just mixes to 480 ppm for me at the feed chart levels.I checked Humboldts website and found a "HEAVY" feeding scedule but It barly differs from the "MEDIUM" feeding scedule

I use Humboldt nuts too. I love them, but I run into the same issue. You need to create your own feeding schedule.

It's pretty simple. So you're @ 480ppm's and you should be at 600ppms. No problem.

480/600 = 0.80.

That means you are currently at 80% ppms. You're trying to get to 100% ppms.

0.08 - 1.0 = 0.20.

That means you need to add 20% more nutrients.

So say you've got a 100 gallon rez and you're supposed to add 4ml per gallon of part A and B according to your feeding chart. Well just add 20% more.

100 gallons X 4ml per gallon = 400ml. You want your ppms to be 20% higher, so just add 20% more.

400ml x 1.20 = 480ml

So all you've got to do is use 480ml's instead of 400. Do that all the way down your feeding chart and you should be ok.

Humboldt nutrients trick = If you're ppms are ~10% lower than they should be you can use flavorful instead of ph down to ph your rez's.

*disclaimer - this process is an approximation, not an exact science. Some nuts add more ppms than others, but this should get you to about where you need to be. I've been using this system for a year and have done pretty well doing so.

 

[coben]

Thanks man Ive been using them about a month and they have worked pretty well.Seems to do everything a nute should do for veg.On a side note my a/c went out so my rooms over 100-130!!! and plants are fucking dying 1 month into veg. I have to wait a week or so to buy a new a/c

 

[Dan Kone]

Thanks man Ive been using them about a month and they have worked pretty well.Seems to do everything a nute should do for veg.On a side note my a/c went out so my rooms over 100-130!!! and plants are fucking dying 1 month into veg. I have to wait a week or so to buy a new a/c

In the mean time to keep them alive I suggest getting bricks of dry ice. It'll cool the room a little and keep co2 flowing. Not a cheap solution, I know, but it'll keep your shit alive.

I've had nothing but great results with humboldt nuts. Although I do swap out some shit. I think bud candy is superior to hydro carbs. But I base that off of no scientific evidence what so ever. Just seems like I yield better with it.

 

[farmboss]

i can tell you if it is legit nutrients, they should have a mixing chart AND maybe a feeding schedule.

For example, i use technaflora, and i test my nutrient mix pH EVERY time. If i follow their chart, it is always exactly where it should be.

 

[buraka415]

I got some Big Up powder from the Expo this past weekend, and am about 3 wks into flower - so I wont have followed their recommended feeding schedule for this product - I was considering maybe testing on a few containers.. any experience w/ this product?

 

[Dan Kone]

I got some Big Up powder from the Expo this past weekend, and am about 3 wks into flower - so I wont have followed their recommended feeding schedule for this product - I was considering maybe testing on a few containers.. any experience w/ this product?

Yeah. It's basically their version of MOAB. Difference being allegedly it's chelated. Although that's another humboldt nutrients product I don't use. I like MOAB better.

Don't use it 3 weeks into flowering. It's not like pk13-14/ginormous. It's a much stronger product meant to be used at the end of flowering. Wait till ~week 6 and then hit them with it full strength.

*disclaimer - just because I stopped using it doesn't mean it's an inferior product. It just means my perception is that MOAB is more effective. I by no means do legit side-by-side testing. I just try and swap out a different product every cycle and see if I think I get better or worse results.

 

[Dan Kone]

i can tell you if it is legit nutrients, they should have a mixing chart AND maybe a feeding schedule.

For example, i use technaflora, and i test my nutrient mix pH EVERY time. If i follow their chart, it is always exactly where it should be.

They are legit nutrients for sure. And while the bottles themselves are more expensive, if you consider how many ml per G you mix in, the humboldt nutrients product line is less expensive than the botanicare line. Unlike the botanicare line it is for the most part chelated. Also it has certain things that line doesn't like fulvic acid. I'm unsure how it stacks up against thechnaflora. Never used that.

 

[buraka415]

@Dan

I have been thinking about MOAB to try out. I am running Blue Dream, which is a like 8 or 9 weeks for flower. So I would use MOAB near the 5th - 6th week of flower? What about Shooting Powder have you used that? I was trying to see if House and Garden had any samples at the expo but I didnt see them giving that out.

Guess I will try Big Up on a few tests containers vs MOAB and see what happens.

 

[Dan Kone]

@Dan

I have been thinking about MOAB to try out. I am running Blue Dream, which is a like 8 or 9 weeks for flower. So I would use MOAB near the 5th - 6th week of flower? What about Shooting Powder have you used that? I was trying to see if House and Garden had any samples at the expo but I didnt see them giving that out.

Guess I will try Big Up on a few tests containers vs MOAB and see what happens.

Use MOAB/Big Up your last few weeks of flowering. I've never used shooting powder. I'm quite happy with MOAB.

 

[patlpp]

The stated 600 PPM is a target to reach with or without supplements. So for instance if you are using Master A & B only, dose for a target 600 ppm over and above what the ml dose is listed on the chart, using the method Don explained above. The Master A/B ml dose on the chart is assuming you are using the sups. In your case you are following the chart to the tee , adding all the sups and still getting less than the stated PPMS, so there may be another problem:

Whenever you see feeding charts where the PPM calls for like 1600 to 1800 PPM as is the case on the Humboldt feeding chart in high bloom, they MUST be using a TDS meter with a conversion factor of .7. 1600/.7 = an EC of 2.28 . Safe EC values for Mary in bloom are 1.8-2.4 EC. You may have a TDS meter with a factor of .5 so all of your readings will be lower than the charts. Also, all feeding chart measurements are in reference to using zero PPM RO water.

So the called for PPM is 600 which is an EC of 600/.7= .86. You may have a .5 meter so .89 x .5 = 440 PPM. That's only 10% off. If you are not using RO water maybe the extra 40PPM is your water or just a slight nute dose or meter error.

This is a common cause of nute toxicity because people go by the PPM values on charts and try to match it, even when they properly dose as recommended by the very same chart.

 

[farmboss]

They are legit nutrients for sure. And while the bottles themselves are more expensive, if you consider how many ml per G you mix in, the humboldt nutrients product line is less expensive than the botanicare line. Unlike the botanicare line it is for the most part chelated. Also it has certain things that line doesn't like fulvic acid. I'm unsure how it stacks up against thechnaflora. Never used that.

i also use humboldt's additives, snowstorm now, and will finish with gravity.

i didn't mean humboldt wasn't legit, i meant that if you are using legit nutes (like humboldt) if you just follow their directions it will work PERFECT every time.