It's A Fuct World

Clever, but what if it is a male goat that has been sacrificed under the light of a waxing 1st quarter moon? Ever tried to milk one? Did you make a new friend? :D
 
Al, what's your thoughts on this lighting situation, is a 1000hps for a 4x4 closet overkill? been thinking about getting a 600 to save on utilities but if it's going to cause a significant loss of yield the 1000 will stay. there are no heat issues.
 
kevin said:
Al, what's your thoughts on this lighting situation, is a 1000hps for a 4x4 closet overkill? been thinking about getting a 600 to save on utilities but if it's going to cause a significant loss of yield the 1000 will stay. there are no heat issues.
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Use the kW. A 600 is just that little bit too small for 16 sq ft.Wrap that rascal in a cool tube with a closed air circuit.
 
5000lumens/sq.ft is the minimum requirement to flower, a high efficiency 600 should cover a 16sq.ft, just a thought :)
 
zem said:
5000lumens/sq.ft is the minimum requirement to flower, a high efficiency 600 should cover a 16sq.ft, just a thought :)
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Think again. A 600 will produce poor bud density around the edges of a 4x4 tray. A 1000 is the right choice for that large a tray.
 
Fuck how did I miss this, That was funny. I didnt know about the carbs, I always see that picture in Jorge's Bible about the 20% larger from using molasses. I just Bought General Hydroponics FloraNecter are you saying I just wasted 25 bucks?
 
jimbizzzale67123 said:
Fuck how did I miss this, That was funny. I didnt know about the carbs, I always see that picture in Jorge's Bible about the 20% larger from using molasses. I just Bought General Hydroponics FloraNecter are you saying I just wasted 25 bucks?
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With all due respect to Jorge (and that's quite a lot), sugars have no place in hydroponic systems. Vascular plants can't eat them. Sugars may have some use in soil-based cultivation, where microbes which break down organic matter into N, P & K may benefit from application of them. However, in an inorganic-based hydro system, sugars do only one thing- attract pests, including moulds & fungi. The only living thing that should be in an inorganic cannabis hydro op is cannabis plants.

So yeah, I think you've just done your $25. Get a refund if you can... or put the stuff on your veggie patch out the back.
 
Long time lurker but it was worth it for me to come out and post just to say thank you Al. I won't say specifically what for but I think you deserve the kudos.
 
iflylow said:
Long time lurker but it was worth it for me to come out and post just to say thank you Al. I won't say specifically what for but I think you deserve the kudos.
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Thanks. :)

kevin said:
you're only trying to bump up your post count.
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There's easier ways to bump one's post count than being nice to me- which I truly do appreciate, BTW.

MediMary said:
I dunno, he joined july of last year, maybe he just wanted to give al kudos, Al def deserves it, :)
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Thanks, MM. :)
 
Al B. Fuct said:
With all due respect to Jorge (and that's quite a lot), sugars have no place in hydroponic systems. Vascular plants can't eat them. Sugars may have some use in soil-based cultivation, where microbes which break down organic matter into N, P & K may benefit from application of them. However, in an inorganic-based hydro system, sugars do only one thing- attract pests, including moulds & fungi. The only living thing that should be in an inorganic cannabis hydro op is cannabis plants.

So yeah, I think you've just done your $25. Get a refund if you can... or put the stuff on your veggie patch out the back.
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I already opened it too see if it smelt like Pineapple. It didn't :(
 
hey al got a issue or a buddy does I post this aready in another thread but now im calling out the big guns.

the issue is fogging/milky/merky water after 2 rom a fresh res change.
water temp is 69-70
nutes are NSR green leaves grow/bloom/boost with H202 at 7ml per gal
tank has aire stones running 24/7
res system is drain to waist no recovery
there are no light lleks into the res tank
res size is 55 gal trash can

K so simple elimination to try to stop this has gone in steps and each step started
with a fresh res change and a crazy cleaning of everything.

step #1 remove the boast to eliminate the vitaimins that could react to the H202/air stone
2 days later blame theres a problem

step #2 was to clean the system again and do a res change
2 days later blame problem again

step #3 is going to be remove the H202

step #4 and if it comes to it remove the air stones

AL me and my buddy are completely lost with this issue he has 5 res tanks
and this res tank is the only one that is drain to waist and the ones that
are recycle dont do it and the formulas are the same between the 5
 
Al B. Fuct said:
Think again. A 600 will produce poor bud density around the edges of a 4x4 tray. A 1000 is the right choice for that large a tray.
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Very true. When I upgraded my flower room from 1000w mag/core ballast to Quantum 600w digitals I had to hang 3 x 600w in cool tubes over each 4x8 SOG flood table to achieve the best/better light and lumen coverage than the 2 x 1000w's I had. Actually, using the three 600's gave me better results over two 1000's and saved a little on electric using 1800 total watts as opposed to 2000w. And since I run two 4x8 flood tables in my flower room, using six 600w over them instead of my 4 x 1000w...I saved a total of 400w's which lets me run a 400w in my veg/mother room basically for free.
 
hellraizer30 said:
hey al got a issue or a buddy does I post this aready in another thread but now im calling out the big guns.

the issue is fogging/milky/merky water after 2 rom a fresh res change.
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I don't understand "after 2 rom a fresh res change."

I am not generally a spelling/grammar pedant, but if I have to guess to divine what you mean, you're not helping me help you.

hellraizer30 said:
water temp is 69-70
nutes are NSR green leaves grow/bloom/boost with H202 at 7ml per gal
tank has aire stones running 24/7
res system is drain to waist no recovery
there are no light lleks into the res tank
res size is 55 gal trash can

K so simple elimination to try to stop this has gone in steps and each step started
with a fresh res change and a crazy cleaning of everything.

step #1 remove the boast to eliminate the vitaimins that could react to the H202/air stone
2 days later blame theres a problem

step #2 was to clean the system again and do a res change
2 days later blame problem again

step #3 is going to be remove the H202

step #4 and if it comes to it remove the air stones

AL me and my buddy are completely lost with this issue he has 5 res tanks
and this res tank is the only one that is drain to waist and the ones that
are recycle dont do it and the formulas are the same between the 5
Click to expand...

I've never heard of "NSR green leaves" before. Is this an organic nutrient? If so, this could be reacting with the H2O2. This will have the effect of breaking all the H2O2 down into H2O + O, leaving nothing to attack pathogens. Vitamins (unnecessary anyway) should not react with H2O2, but there may be other organic ingredients in this magic sauce which could be reacting with the H2O2. My final guess is there's something about the plastic in the container being used as a res tank which is causing the cloudiness. Removing the H2O2 and/or airstones is not a good idea.

tat2ue said:
Very true. When I upgraded my flower room from 1000w mag/core ballast to Quantum 600w digitals I had to hang 3 x 600w in cool tubes over each 4x8 SOG flood table to achieve the best/better light and lumen coverage than the 2 x 1000w's I had. Actually, using the three 600's gave me better results over two 1000's and saved a little on electric using 1800 total watts as opposed to 2000w. And since I run two 4x8 flood tables in my flower room, using six 600w over them instead of my 4 x 1000w...I saved a total of 400w's which lets me run a 400w in my veg/mother room basically for free.
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While electronic ballasts don't have eddy current losses as do inductive ballasts, there is still some power consumption in the electronic ballast. This is a result of resistances in the regulation circuitry. The upshot is that 600W electronic ballast will draw about 660W from the AC mains. A 1000 on an inductive ballast will draw about 1080W. Your three 600s on electronic ballasts are drawing about 1980W vs. 2160W for a pair of 1000s on inductive ballasts. Yes, you're saving about 180W, but at the same time, sacrificing some luminous intensity. However, with three 600s, you can get the plants closer to the light source (on average). Cooltubes allow a 1000 to be just as near the plants as a 600. A 1000HPS typically will deliver 145,000 lumens while a typical 600 will deliver about 90,000. The buds closest to the 1000s will develop better density than those nearest the 600s. You can even things up a bit in the 2x 1000 scenario by moving the plants around a couple of times during flowering.

Incidentally, a 400HPS on an inductive ballast will draw about 435W from AC mains, so your use of 3x 600 on electronic ballasts, while reducing flowering power consumption by 180W, isn't quite covering the operating cost of the 400 doing your mother vegging. Moreover, the 400 is running 18-24h/day and your flowering lighting is only running 12h/day.

At the end of the day, it's 6 of one & half a dozen of the other.
 
sorry folks not sure what this thread is about now please forgive me, i see al b here and rememberd my cuttings question :idea:
AL B. in your rockwool sticky, it looked like you were putting cuttings directly into upside down 3 inch "transplanting cubes" i have never seen anyone do it like that before is there any advantage to that, rather than using the 1 or 2 inch seed cubes that then insert into the correct transplanting cubes (big hole/small hole) once roots show through the seed cubes :?:
 
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