Canon
Well-Known Member
You're off to a good game. 
I could say sooo much about doing a "ring - around,,, (but I'm not playing).
You've got my interest in what you do with it (or go from here).
Autoflower Cage Match: Round Two!
- Thread starter KuLong
- Start date
You're off to a good game. I could say sooo much about doing a "ring - around,,, (but I'm not playing).
You've got my interest in what you do with it (or go from here).
Canon
Well-Known Member
Very salvagable!
Get some oxygen to the roots and you're good. (She's drowning)
If it was dirt, a flood & drain with tonic / selza water and mild nutes would have that gal blushing with green in days.
micro.grower
Well-Known Member
i would recomend letting them grow up to the height required to wrap around the rim first... early lst has a way of stopping vertical growth from what was once your main cola... just a pointer... not always true, but in my personal experience it did...
micro.grower
Well-Known Member
lemme explain better.. i think i missed something.. lol.. damn stoner.. lol... anyways... she was already yellowed and "burnt" before transplanting to dwc... when i checkedout her soil a few day ago (mg mc) i noticed that around her tap root, there was a square clump of super moist soil... i tried breakin up the soil to allow it to dry out better... upon doing so i realized that th main tap root had been severed from root rot... so i simply put some rootin hormone on the bottom of he twig of a root and transplanted into a jffy puck placed in my dwc setup... its shitty because i can smell her very strong... the smell is awesome... upon days she would have flowered if i hadnt ran into this difficulty... i dunno... this should be interesting... lol... wish me the best of luck... hope this explained things better... thankx for the concern guys...
keifcake
Well-Known Member
my two mataro blues.. they look to be growing exactly the same so far. guess i ll know in a week if the lil is buding up like the one in the red cup. no smell to either one of them yet. the one that sprouted around the 1st, dont remember aexactly its in this thread somewhere tho, has had pistils for about a week or so and has already had a feeding of full flower nutes. handles it well
onegreenthumb
Well-Known Member
MI 5 update
15 days old next to big sis
nutes so far: soaked block in clonex seedling solution and only been adding ph water since.
15 days old next to big sis
nutes so far: soaked block in clonex seedling solution and only been adding ph water since.
mystifiedbongs
Well-Known Member
update Diesel Ryder
hempstead
Well-Known Member
I guess I am not the only one floating little pots between big pots. heh Dries em up faster too.
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Hey every, I lou of not having a proper digicam I decided to take pics of my Il Diavolo (Delicious Seeds) with the cam on my laptop screen. They're horrible quality and black out to protect the innocent lol, but they give you sense of what I ended up with. I used a mix of MG organic and FF Happy Frog soil and perlite for my medium, AN base nutrients an H&G additives. I used molasses for the last three weeks of growth. The harvest date was right on, 60 days from seed. Seven days later I'm harvesting (two days from now) after sticking them in complete darkness for two days. Flushed for three days with pure pH'd r/o water and H&G Drip Clean (excellent product).
View attachment 1567858
View attachment 1567858
Frenchy1000
Well-Known Member
Ok guys. My plant is fucked, more leaves going yellow. Wtf should i do. Could it be due to temp??? My closet can get near 90f at the min due to awesome weather
lowryder666
Active Member
Emergency procedure override:
Transplant immediately into new soil (something suitable for tomatoes) with 30% perlite. Aerate some water (non-nuted) by repeatedly pouring from a jug from a height for about 10 minutes. Add water and drain fully. Wait a couple of days and post pics.
Canon
Well-Known Member
Too much lizard shit???? (Just kidding -
)Pics would help,, but if it is heat,, could you run the lights at night when it's cooler? Being a AF,, Light tight isn't all that criticle. Maybe just leave it open? Cellar?
Believe KuLong has situations with heat from time to time where he is. Maybe he has other ideas.
Again, pics would help to maybe confirm it's indeed heat. (any signs of stress to stems / veins?)
hempstead
Well-Known Member
My flower tent runs at about 88-90 when lights first come on because I am in a warm area too. Cools off to about 82 in the tent after about an hour and the sun totally sets. I also get yellowing leaves for no reason and I always blame the heat because they get it even if fed well.
lowryder666
Active Member
I don't believe heat causes yellowing. If I thought my plant was on it's way out and I'm not sure what the problem is I'll hit the reset button. Reset from a known state, hence my suggestion. I'm sure the problem is either, nutrient, watering, soil or drainage related or some combination. 90f really is the top temp limit but won't kill (will slow growth though)Too much lizard shit???? (Just kidding -
Pics would help,, but if it is heat,, could you run the lights at night when it's cooler? Being a AF,, Light tight isn't all that criticle. Maybe just leave it open? Cellar?
Believe KuLong has situations with heat from time to time where he is. Maybe he has other ideas.
Again, pics would help to maybe confirm it's indeed heat. (any signs of stress to stems / veins?)
Beansly
RIU Bulldog
Yeah, I'm not too sure heat causes yellowing either. The fact that your using CFLs might be the issue. Light penetration is literally inches for a CFL before the is totally useless. If you plants are still short it might be a nutrient/salt lock out due to pH. Do you notice puffy ridges between veins? Meaning are plant pillow-y between the veins instead of having a perfectly flat leaf on the top growth. Is so, that's a sign of salt lock and you'll have to flush your medium.
If I were you I'd flush my medium anyways. Usually helps me when leafs first start to go funky on me.
If that doesn't work, I'd say go with what lowryder says. I hit reset many times myself and just transplant into better soil (usually cause I cause I started with bad soil in the first place). It help immensely.
If I were you I'd flush my medium anyways. Usually helps me when leafs first start to go funky on me.
If that doesn't work, I'd say go with what lowryder says. I hit reset many times myself and just transplant into better soil (usually cause I cause I started with bad soil in the first place). It help immensely.
hempstead
Well-Known Member
Here is my plant problem finder. heh Best one I found so far.
If you go down to post #7 you can see what heat stress looks like. And this is how many of my plant can look like when they don't like the heat. At first I thought it was P they wanted but they get plenty and still look like this at about 90 degrees.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
If you go down to post #7 you can see what heat stress looks like. And this is how many of my plant can look like when they don't like the heat. At first I thought it was P they wanted but they get plenty and still look like this at about 90 degrees.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Canon
Well-Known Member
For 80-90% of the time I'd agree.
But,,, heat can trigger other issues. with the Ruderalis being primarily a colder weather plant,, not knowing how influential this may be on the particular plant,, things can happen.
If the plant shuts down from heat,, resperation slows, water isn't used as much, there by feeding stops. Let sit long enough in heat it could leave the soil over moist and deprive oxygen. Could also lock out the nutes in sufficient amount to promote growth.
However,,, while possible.... Asked for pictures. OP thinks heat, bennefit of the doubt applied.
That's why I started out with,,, "Pics would help,, but if it is heat,, "