2nd Grow. 600W MH/HPS Bulb. Lst/Scrog Method
- Thread starter G37Kush
- Start date
4tatude
Well-Known Member
i feel for ya G37 maby this will help, good luck...
Root Aphid Info
Root Aphid Info
Root aphids colonize and suck juices from roots in many mediums including rockwool, “grow rocks”, coco, and soil. If plants
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of
Phemphigus
(root aphids), and unfortunately, when they are feeding in the soil there are few, if any, winged adults around to warn you. Many times
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
Azatrol:
After ingesting
Azatrol an insect can’t feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they can’t form a
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
Azatrol Application Rates:
Start with 1-2 gallons of Reverse Osmosis (purified) water and add
Azatrol (1-2 oz. for every 20 gallons in the reservoir.) Mix it well inside
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
Green light Tree and Shrub Systemic:
Green Light Systemic
uses a nicotine derivative to control aphids. It is called imidacloprid and it works. It should be used as a
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic Application Rates:
Apply 1 - 3 tsp./ Gal. Soak the roots.
Bonide Systemic:
This is the harshest stuff that we have found. It will kill larvae, root aphids, and just about anything else in the medium. Make sure
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application.
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application.
Apply to one plant first, then apply to rest of garden.
Systemic killer Application Rates:
Mix 1oz. per 10 Gallons of solution or 1/2 oz. per 5 Gal. After application, make sure to FLUSH 4-5 hours later. Repeat as necessary.
G37Kush
Active Member
Sorry to all who have been following my grow. After my encounter with the root aphids I almost gave up but decided to fight them off and just stick with it. I got really busy with work and thanks go out to all those who gave help. Very Much Appreciated!
To give you a brief update on what I've been doing the past couple weeks is 2 days after I first saw the root aphids I treated with the GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic then flushed. It got rid of a good portion of the infestation. Waited 3 days til they wicked 3/4 of the water and fed like normal. In the run-off I saw small traces of bugs. Once they wicked up 3/4 of their water again I treated with Bonide Systemic. Waited 4 hours then flushed with 400ppm 5.8pHed water. Surprisingly, throughout the entire time the girls are green and healthy. Of course losing small amounts of lower leaves. But not too much to be concerned about. The tops of all the girls are getting pretty frosty already. I wish I had a better camera but they are looking really good. A sigh of relief.
To give you a brief update on what I've been doing the past couple weeks is 2 days after I first saw the root aphids I treated with the GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic then flushed. It got rid of a good portion of the infestation. Waited 3 days til they wicked 3/4 of the water and fed like normal. In the run-off I saw small traces of bugs. Once they wicked up 3/4 of their water again I treated with Bonide Systemic. Waited 4 hours then flushed with 400ppm 5.8pHed water. Surprisingly, throughout the entire time the girls are green and healthy. Of course losing small amounts of lower leaves. But not too much to be concerned about. The tops of all the girls are getting pretty frosty already. I wish I had a better camera but they are looking really good. A sigh of relief.
Now that's gardening! Great work, buddy. Thanks for sharing your success... I have to admit, your absence scared me a little; I feared the worst. I'm glad to see you are back on course--and looking choice!
Dick Moser
Active Member
amazing man!!! cant even tell you had a problem of ANY kind 
G37Kush
Active Member
Hey there fellow ganja farmers! Time for an update on the ladies. After feeding a 2nd time this week a couple days ago I was able to get a couple photos before the lights turned on. I peaked at 1200ppms this week. Next week I'll be bringing my ppms down to 1100ppm. Until harvest in 4 more weeks. Things are getting really frosty and healthy.
I've also had another small vegg room in my closet for the past couple weeks. Started from 2 seeds of Critical Mass. And now they are at 47 days from seed. I want to start flowering these girls but I don't have room in my flower tent. I'll speed you through the past couple weeks.
I've also had another small vegg room in my closet for the past couple weeks. Started from 2 seeds of Critical Mass. And now they are at 47 days from seed. I want to start flowering these girls but I don't have room in my flower tent. I'll speed you through the past couple weeks.
Attachments
G37Kush
Active Member
Time for an update on the ladies in the flowering room. Things are getting really frosty ever since my first feeding of overdrive a couple days ago. I doubled the dosage of budswell and a strong feeding of Grand Finale. Also, continuing to use Bud Candy. The ladies are drinking alot, feeding is every other day. Probably going to finish in 10-14 days. Wacha think?
Close-ups:
Sprinkle the frosting!!!
Just as the lights turned on:
Close-ups:
Sprinkle the frosting!!!
Just as the lights turned on:
G37Kush
Active Member
Thanx 4 tatude! I appreciate the kind words. The fruits of my labor are really showing.
G37Kush
Active Member
Alright the time is almost here for harevest. Starting my first low nutrient ppm feeding. Switched from Strong feeding to Mild feeding of Grand Finale. Fed also with Overdrive, Bud Candy, and Budswell.
The ladies have come a long way. Let me know what you think of them
Platinum Bubba
View attachment 1586534
Tahoe OG
View attachment 1586535
True OG
Tahoe OG & True OG
View attachment 1586537
Earth OG
View attachment 1586538
Over-head shots
The ladies have come a long way. Let me know what you think of them
Platinum Bubba
View attachment 1586534
Tahoe OG
View attachment 1586535
True OG
Tahoe OG & True OG
View attachment 1586537
Earth OG
View attachment 1586538
Over-head shots
G37Kush
Active Member
Yeah I know I've been very reluctant. I have 2 large 16" Oscillating fans at eye level and 2 small 6" Air circulation fans above. Got plenty of air circulation above and below the screen. No I didnt do any foliar feeds with this grow. I wonder what improvements I could make with a foliar feed in my feeding schedule. I've added base nutrients, additives, synthetics, beneficial fungi, and vermi-t solution
4tatude
Well-Known Member
g37 Here is some information on Foliar Feeding. FOLIAR APPLIED PLANT NUTRIENTS FOLIAR FEEDING - Foliar feeding, using natural organic foliar fertilizer, is an effective method for correcting soil deficiencies and overcoming the soils inability to transfer nutrients to the plant. Tests have shown that up to 90 percent of a foliar fed nutrient solution can be found in the smallest root of a plant within 60 minutes of application. A project conducted at Michigan State University, using radio*active tagged nutrients, proved that foliar feeding can be 8 to10 times more effective than soil feeding. The effectiveness of foliar applied nutrients is determined by (1) The condition of the leaf surface, in particular the waxy cuticle. The cuticle is only partially permeable to water and dissolved nutrients and, as a result, it can limit nutrient uptake. (2) The length of time the nutrient remains dissolved in the solution on the leaf's surface. (3) diffusion, the movement of elements from a high concentration to a low concentration. For diffusion to occur, the nutrient must dissolve. and (4) The type of formulation. Water-soluble formulations generally work better for foliar applications as they are more easily absorbed when compared to insoluble solutions. Water insoluble formulations are generally slow acting because they must dissolve before they can be absorbed and are more applicable for soil applications. TIMING The best time to foliar feed is late evening to early morning. These are the times when the stomata (the small opening on the leaves) are open. Avoid foliar spraying when When the temperature above 80F. When the weather is hot and dry and water vapor is leaving the cells. Foliar spray When the temperature is 72F or below. Early in the morning when the cells of the leaf are full of water and dew has collected on the foliage. When air temperatures and humidity both equal 135 or less. When air temperature is cooler than soil surface temperature. NOTE: A biological surfactant can reduce water tension and improve the absorption rate of foliar sprays. Where possible, the pH of a foliar spray should be between 6.2 to 7.0. To promote young plant growth a sweeter (alkaline) solution (pH 7.0) is recommended. For established growth, a more sour (acid) solution (pH 6.2) is recommended. An effective foliar application can produce results in 1 to 6 days. Use a refractometer to detect results. Here is a link that might be useful: FOLIAR APPLIED PLANT NUTRIENTS
G37Kush
Active Member
Thanx for the help 4tatude. I'll definetly incorporate a foliar feed in my next grow. Especially to correct deficiencies.
fallinprince
Active Member
So what are you up to these days how are your plants i hear you made a transition to DWC so i wanted to check your journal