jackterrier234
Active Member
Important: Everything i do or say on this site is complete fiction and is made up by me and only me. I have never tried pot and never will and i would especially never even consider growing it.
my shittty setup
- Thread starter jackterrier234
- Start date
midnighttoker2
Active Member
i dont really have alot to help, but i can say it seems like your set up is better than mine. i have mg soil and i am not sure what kind of light. i put my seeds in water for 3 days had sprouts so i planted them and now 1 and 1/2 weeks later my plants are 4 inches tall. i wish i could halp you but i am new to this also. there are really cool ppls in here though and i am sure you will get alot of good advice. good luck
videoman40
Well-Known Member
I have some doubts about your light, you may need to rethink yr lighting
Doe$tax
Active Member
your light seems pretty basic.. And I am pretty sure it will not be enough to grow the hardly any bud... but for the seedling it should be enough.. I havesome questions ... How far down did you put the seed in the soil... This can effect the time it takes for the sprout to pop out of the top of soil... Also you may want to invest in a theremometer and hygrometer... you want the humidity from 55% - 65% and the temp anywhere between 70 and 78 degrees
Mr. Green Thumb
Well-Known Member
yeah i am new to growing to . . . when i was shopping for bulbs for my setup i saw that plant light made by GE and i got it cuz it seemed like it would be best . . .. . but that light sucks hella bade bro . . . take it back and get some floros for those little sprouts . . . i did now my plant is a week and a half old and thriving . . .
babygro
Well-Known Member
Soils fine, but you need a better light. That light doesn't look a good deal to me, rated life only 2,000 hours, and outputs 1,600 lumens in an unknown spectrum. You'd be far better off with a compact flourescent 20w energy saver daylight bulb 6-7,000 degrees kelvin for bringing your seedling on for the first couple of weeks after that you really do need to invest in a minimum of a 125w blue Envirolite or nlite nlites USA | Products | Compact Fluorescent Lamps for vegging with.
If the seedling hasn't broken the surface yet, cover it in clingfilm and put it in a warm dark place and it should pop the surface in a couple of days.
babygro
Well-Known Member
Did you not look at the link I gave you, or did you think it was not worth bothering with? Had you taken a couple of minutes to actually look at it - it would have given you all the information you required for the kind of light you need.
-sigh- You can lead a horse to water, but sometimes you can't even make it drink!
AllmanBro
Active Member
go to your local electricial supply store, ask them, use cash, no names, and by no means tell them you are GROWING anything, not even a tomatoe. when they ask why you want it, tell them its none of there damn business, there job is to supply, not ask questions.
Or order it online.
good luck
Or order it online.
good luck
pinklemonmoosek2
Active Member
You should deffinently line your grow area with mylar or something reflective, stray away from aluminum or tin foil though as it will cause hot spots.
TillthedayiDIE420
Well-Known Member
im New to growing... but for just hatched plants just use a normal spiral flourecent bulbs like 4-5 of them if possible if ur keeping it in one pot and not transfering it.... Keep the lights about and inch away so they can get maximum light.... after the plant grows for a week or so U want to invest in a mh bulb for maximum Growth in the Vegetative cycle.... u want 18 hours of light when there in this cycle... if you want lots of bud i suggest a HPS bulb during the 12 on and 12 off cycle then they will start to bud. you cant just do it with one bulb... or ur Yeild is going to be low to none
babygro
Well-Known Member
Whats up? What you've got so far will get you started, but as the post above me says, you'll need to invest in a better light at some point. You cannot go through your entire grow with a low wattage energy saver - it simply doesn't work.
We1
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use that bulb for growing buds though cause they suck ass and get way too hot, but there cheap and they make the temp in my grow room more stable since its like 30 below in Minnesota. I grow my own weed cause the poop around here really does taste like poop and Im afraid that is what happens when you use poopy lights. You would be better off with some flourecent lights, plus they cost about the same. If you buy like 50 of them you'll probably get a nice similar affect to a 400w hps or mh bulb
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Your gonna find out that hose peat trays are a pain in the ass.First off theres not enough dirt in them from what I can see.Next you cant really transplant out of them as the roots grow into them and if left in them root development is slow.Second lighting is crap there.Since your being cheap you can by a regular floro shop light at like walmart with bulbs for under $10.Techniqly that can get you through veggitative stage all be it not that great.Your gonna need some light for the flower/bud stage though.Worst comes to worst for 50-60 you can get an hps outside security light at home depot or menards or lowes.Get biggest you can afford.If you would buy online ebay has great used stuff real cheap but if you use the lights you got there your wasting your time.Your costs will be way more then what you ll ever yeild.The sprouts should be under 24 hour floro lights with the light almost touching the plant.Ideally put them in a humidity dome (few bucks at wal-mart or home depot) with light touching dome and mist them.Open dome 2 times a day for 15 minutes to refresh air.Keep the light on 24 hours though for at leats 7-10 then you can transplant into the final size containers.Less transplants the better keeps stress down and less hermies.
TillthedayiDIE420
Well-Known Member
updates mate?
cyphercrash
Well-Known Member
Get 40 Watt Cfls
Bongman
Well-Known Member
" Ingredients: 40% Canadian sphagnum peat moss"
This should have been said a few pages back, but Sphagnum in that strong of concentration is a bad idea for growing marijuana. It's no emergency, but when you next transplant try to do it into something with alot less or no Sphagnum. With your concentration now, the soil will be pretty acidic after awhile.
This should have been said a few pages back, but Sphagnum in that strong of concentration is a bad idea for growing marijuana. It's no emergency, but when you next transplant try to do it into something with alot less or no Sphagnum. With your concentration now, the soil will be pretty acidic after awhile.
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
^^then its a good thing he's using tap water bcuz tap water tends to be more on the alkline side and its a good thing marijuana likes soil/water to be on the acidic side...my soil is 60% peat moss and my plants are fine.
I got my sprouts under 4 26w CFL's and I plan on using CFLs all the way (of course Im buying more)and I bet I get at least 4 oz dry.....
I got my sprouts under 4 26w CFL's and I plan on using CFLs all the way (of course Im buying more)and I bet I get at least 4 oz dry.....
Bongman
Well-Known Member
[SIZE=-1]On the pH scale of 0 to 14, normal tap water measures out an approximately neutral 7, or slightly either side.
Now, marijuana does best at a neutral(7) PH level on average. Hardly ever can a soil mix be found that is too alkaline, but over-acidic is a reachable problem. Of course it does not hurt to be a little below 7, but it is advised to keep it as close to neutral as possible. After a few months in a mix with high concentration of Sphagnum, things could get too acidic, meaning 6 or less. We want females. That's good if your plants are doing fine, but I'm just saying Sphagnum probably won't help keep the ph close to optimum.
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