Thanks dude, its hard to imagine that only 280 watts fo power is giving me this much bud
Stealth Cabinets
- Thread starter BudBaby
- Start date
Thanks dude, its hard to imagine that only 280 watts fo power is giving me this much bud
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
Lol I said the same thing about my 170 watts lol I'm only at week six and it looks like that with five to go wtf lol ha ha ha
Can't wait to try one of these 140s side by side because I really wanted one of these but could afford it as basically my second grow ever was starting and I was rebuilding from scratch. Now it's feasible and I wanna see the difference these panels are what sold me on LEDs originally that and the blackstars. But these always impressed more with build qualiy and knowledge in theory. I had just seen zero and I mean zero results til now and I'm impressed
Can't wait to try one of these 140s side by side because I really wanted one of these but could afford it as basically my second grow ever was starting and I was rebuilding from scratch. Now it's feasible and I wanna see the difference these panels are what sold me on LEDs originally that and the blackstars. But these always impressed more with build qualiy and knowledge in theory. I had just seen zero and I mean zero results til now and I'm impressed
I knew they would be better than the cheaper lights but i didnt realize quite how good they would be, i know when i bought them i waited for my flowering lights a little longer as richard said he was getting the CREE XP-E reds and they woud make a huge difference!!
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
Mmm xpe reds I really want him to add he Luxeon hips for he far red he's missing as free doesn't produce the spectrum but I'm happy with ur results so far on current setup
I left all that to him mate hes the expert, his knowledge on the subject is amazing.
Do you find flowering much longer than usual with you set up dude? Thats the only downside i can find with led growing, it seems to take mine an extra 14 or so days to be ready.
jubiare
Active Member
I think that very few led makers have archived onto this flowering time, there is something in the spectrum choices of a very few, that allow that to happen; Might be something to do with that "big talk use of green diodes". Or something else, as soon as I make my head around it, I'll get back on the subject!
I am at the end of week twelve and they are not ready yet! a 8 weeks strain! I know I had issues, overfed and deficiencies but.. come on
I think that very few led makers have archived onto this flowering time, there is something in the spectrum choices of a very few, that allow that to happen; Might be something to do with that "big talk use of green diodes". Or something else, as soon as I make my head around it, I'll get back on the subject!
I am at the end of week twelve and they are not ready yet! a 8 weeks strain! I know I had issues, overfed and deficiencies but.. come on
Well mine are coming down on the 22nd as we have new windows being fitted around the 28th so i cant have stinky ladies in the cabs. I think they will be ready though, these lights seem to take an extra 2 weeks or so which i can live with because the yeilds are big, if they werent big then it would be more of a ballache.
I might get intouch with Richard and seek his opinion, i was thinking about maybe adding a small amount of HPS to speed things up but im not sure if it would work plus i wanted to do all LED really.
I need to sort this extra intake asap, its cold here but humidity is sky high again, the flowering cab is sitting at 66% and thats with all the windows open!!!
I dont fancy risking using that holesaw again, someone suggested i drill loads of holes really close together where i want the circle then knock the circle out with a hammer?
I dont fancy risking using that holesaw again, someone suggested i drill loads of holes really close together where i want the circle then knock the circle out with a hammer?
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
66 is tits for flower man I've found that humidity levels in he sixties tend to be better at least for my plants than when they are in the 50% range.
I've not noticed the long flower problem definitively yet maybe I mean I've done six runs now with kessils and blackstar combos varying numbers of lights etc. some grows better than others. Since switching partners I've been able to throw lots more pics even though he's picky about it sometimes too. But I will tell you qualiy has gone through the roof because he listens to me and he isn't an idiot like my last partner. And he's also a very good soil grower. It's why I haven't posted many pics of old grows as sho wants to see far yields of hay? Lol. What a nightmare my old partner was. Glad I'm workin with my boy now. Things go well as there are lots I people talkin shit lol let's me know I'm doin somthin right
Keep up the good work man.
Vid from today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8NqXtkCmGs
I've not noticed the long flower problem definitively yet maybe I mean I've done six runs now with kessils and blackstar combos varying numbers of lights etc. some grows better than others. Since switching partners I've been able to throw lots more pics even though he's picky about it sometimes too. But I will tell you qualiy has gone through the roof because he listens to me and he isn't an idiot like my last partner. And he's also a very good soil grower. It's why I haven't posted many pics of old grows as sho wants to see far yields of hay? Lol. What a nightmare my old partner was. Glad I'm workin with my boy now. Things go well as there are lots I people talkin shit lol let's me know I'm doin somthin right
Keep up the good work man.
Vid from today http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8NqXtkCmGs
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
What's wrong with the hole saw? If not try the drill thing and take a dry wall blade or somthin and cut it out u know one of those long blades looks like a steak knife or use a jig saw after u drill a small hole
I find they take about 2 weeks or so longer, id like to find out why and to see if there is a way to speed it up without having to use HID. I am growing monsters though so this may have some baring on it.
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
Takin a break? Aw no breaks man lol
jubiare
Active Member
Apparentely there is something to to with far red 720 or 740nm? Something to do with the sunrising and sunset.... some people give a hour of far red first thing in the morning and last thing in the eve? There is a guy on icmag that has experienced one week less flowering than HPS, compared to not using far red flowering was taking one extra week compared to HPS
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
Far red = mass trichomes production so it's a good spectrum to have
jubiare
Active Member
So budbaby, if I was you, I would experiment with a maybe only one growspot, over only one plant, and compare the difference. I don't have Richard Panels but I will most likely have one, anyway that's what I would do. Maybe also with a green one over an other plant, and see what happens? I have enquired the source of my light, if the far reds and greens are missing, I will do the same! I have found at eshinesystem (china), a growspot that can be customized any wavelenght you like. They are 12 x 1w diodes, bridgelux and/or epistar, not the best but I think they would do the job. They are also CHEEAP at $22 each!
THIS IS FROM KNNA, A GENIUS GUY WHO HELPS PEOPLE MAKING THEIR OWN LED:
I had always said that some green light is required for a good spectrum efficacy. Check this other thread for more details (posts #3 and #5, and links in the latter).
How much to use is strongly dependent of the irradiance level used.Its related to leaf morphology, which account for large differences between plants with different leaf shapes and thickness. Most of red and blue light is absorbed on the upper and bottom leaves's epidermis layer. While green and yellow light is mostly absorbed in the inner part of leaves.
On the other hand, blue and red light is absorbed very well, but saturation point is relatively low, and past a point of irradiance of both, net photosynthesis gain is greatly reduced.
At the irradiance used for veg, usually green/yellow light is not required because sub saturation levels are more than enough to provide the required energy to the plant (although a little green dont harm). But for bloom, if we want huge colas we need to use irradiance levels too high to accomplish the task with just red and blue. Additionally green/yellow light plays an important role regulating high irradiance levels. So using them is a must during bloom phase, especially the second half.
But yellow and especially, green LEDs are very inefficient at the current state of art. It makes very little sense to use them. Instead, white LEDs provide a decent amount of green/yellow at good efficiency. So it is possible to use cool whites on a good number with red LEDs or use neutral and still warm whites with blue and red LEDs. Thats the way of getting a balanced spectrum with the best efficiency. __________________
THIS IS FROM KNNA, A GENIUS GUY WHO HELPS PEOPLE MAKING THEIR OWN LED:
I had always said that some green light is required for a good spectrum efficacy. Check this other thread for more details (posts #3 and #5, and links in the latter).
How much to use is strongly dependent of the irradiance level used.Its related to leaf morphology, which account for large differences between plants with different leaf shapes and thickness. Most of red and blue light is absorbed on the upper and bottom leaves's epidermis layer. While green and yellow light is mostly absorbed in the inner part of leaves.
On the other hand, blue and red light is absorbed very well, but saturation point is relatively low, and past a point of irradiance of both, net photosynthesis gain is greatly reduced.
At the irradiance used for veg, usually green/yellow light is not required because sub saturation levels are more than enough to provide the required energy to the plant (although a little green dont harm). But for bloom, if we want huge colas we need to use irradiance levels too high to accomplish the task with just red and blue. Additionally green/yellow light plays an important role regulating high irradiance levels. So using them is a must during bloom phase, especially the second half.
But yellow and especially, green LEDs are very inefficient at the current state of art. It makes very little sense to use them. Instead, white LEDs provide a decent amount of green/yellow at good efficiency. So it is possible to use cool whites on a good number with red LEDs or use neutral and still warm whites with blue and red LEDs. Thats the way of getting a balanced spectrum with the best efficiency. __________________
stelthy
Well-Known Member
Hi dude, I wouldn't go with another intake as it will reduce the efficiency of the out-take fan with less negative pressure in the cab. You could try adding a small 6" oscilating fan (under the canopy) aimed slightly upward.. or possibly get replacement In-Line Fan with a higher CFM movement.. in the mean time if you keep getting condensation on the doors etc keep wiping it of until dry with kitchen towel.. too much humidity can and often does cause mould.. and I'd hate to see that happenI have one in there and 4 moisture traps so i think ill be ok, ill add another intake hole, that should sort it. Its weird because it doesnt seem humid in there at all. Its not warm mind so thats something, its just miserable damp UK weather
!! Hope thats of some help
... I've been well busy the last few weeks and am just catching up on my buddies threads etc... lemme know how you resolve your humidity issues - STELTHY 
So budbaby, if I was you, I would experiment with a maybe only one growspot, over only one plant, and compare the difference. I don't have Richard Panels but I will most likely have one, anyway that's what I would do. Maybe also with a green one over an other plant, and see what happens? I have enquired the source of my light, if the far reds and greens are missing, I will do the same! I have found at eshinesystem (china), a growspot that can be customized any wavelenght you like. They are 12 x 1w diodes, bridgelux and/or epistar, not the best but I think they would do the job. They are also CHEEAP at $22 each!
THIS IS FROM KNNA, A GENIUS GUY WHO HELPS PEOPLE MAKING THEIR OWN LED:
I had always said that some green light is required for a good spectrum efficacy. Check this other thread for more details (posts #3 and #5, and links in the latter).
How much to use is strongly dependent of the irradiance level used.Its related to leaf morphology, which account for large differences between plants with different leaf shapes and thickness. Most of red and blue light is absorbed on the upper and bottom leaves's epidermis layer. While green and yellow light is mostly absorbed in the inner part of leaves.
On the other hand, blue and red light is absorbed very well, but saturation point is relatively low, and past a point of irradiance of both, net photosynthesis gain is greatly reduced.
At the irradiance used for veg, usually green/yellow light is not required because sub saturation levels are more than enough to provide the required energy to the plant (although a little green dont harm). But for bloom, if we want huge colas we need to use irradiance levels too high to accomplish the task with just red and blue. Additionally green/yellow light plays an important role regulating high irradiance levels. So using them is a must during bloom phase, especially the second half.
But yellow and especially, green LEDs are very inefficient at the current state of art. It makes very little sense to use them. Instead, white LEDs provide a decent amount of green/yellow at good efficiency. So it is possible to use cool whites on a good number with red LEDs or use neutral and still warm whites with blue and red LEDs. Thats the way of getting a balanced spectrum with the best efficiency. __________________
Interesting read dude thanks, the white lights in these lights look green to the eye.
Hi dude, I wouldn't go with another intake as it will reduce the efficiency of the out-take fan with less negative pressure in the cab. You could try adding a small 6" oscilating fan (under the canopy) aimed slightly upward.. or possibly get replacement In-Line Fan with a higher CFM movement.. in the mean time if you keep getting condensation on the doors etc keep wiping it of until dry with kitchen towel.. too much humidity can and often does cause mould.. and I'd hate to see that happen
Hope thats of some help
Its alot better this week mate, it seemed worse when it was cold and humid, now its a bit warmer and humid the cabs are fine. Ill be honest even when its reading high it doesnt seem humid in there, theres certainly no damp at all in the flowering cabs or condensation. As soon as i go to airpots anyway im ill have a bit more room then for a bigger fan
Ive decided to chop these down on Sunday, it works out better for me