Dirrtyd's 2012 Organic Soil Mix and Grow

Snafu1236

Well-Known Member
Well heres what we will do . I will continue with a couple of batches my way and the other half your way. I will transplant clones into both mixes in late January. They will stay in the pots the rest of there life. I will let them grow naturally . I want to see if there is a difference. Not sure what strain I will use yet I'm sure I can find something good that should fade well at the end. keepem green dirrtyd
Both ways would be fine. Either way, the plant will grow just fine.

The use of Mychorrizae has many benefits, but most are difficult to see firsthand, unless under a controlled laboratory study. Aside from the obvious gains in nutrient uptake, water mitigation, soil food web unity, etc., most growers do not see a ton of difference in final, finished product.

In other words, Mychorrizae doesn't make your buds taste any better or smell any stronger; they essentially make a plant more fortified to stresses and environmental concerns. Some people do report an overall density and increase in final yield amounts, but this uptick is typically marginal.

In my experience based off controlled studies using a multitude of different strains and their corresponding clones, I have generally seen a less than 2% increase in final yield weights in plants that were innoculated with mychorrizae compared to those that were not.

What I do see, however, is more rapid growth, heartier growth, and much better survival rates with environmental stress factors. Essentially, the plants receiving the Mychorrizae look a lot fuller and heartier, and generally grow faster, fuller and lusher than the exact clones that did not receive Mychorrizal innoculation.
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Well as of today we have three sprouts of the kanangaxblueberry. I will baby these three and plant six more beans hoping for one male out of the three. I will be taking clones off of these plants once the sex is determined. I should be able to determine the sex after the sixth set of true leaves. The plant under the CFL if looking great. The other two are still on the window sill. They will get a CFL once they get three sets of true leaves on. keepem green dirrtyd
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Took the grandson fishing yesterday great day under the Golden Gate answering tourist questions. Nice assortment of perch was caught yesterday. Well going to go out and plant some onions and potatoes today. The weather is great here in the Bay today. keepem green dirrtyd
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Something I found in my readings enjoy. Organic Amendments
[HR][/HR]Greensand – Green Sand 0-0-0.1 Mineral Rich Soil Conditioner It is recommended that the greensand be incorporated into the soil before seeding or planting. A mined mineral rich in soil conditioning Glauconite, Greensand contains 6% total potash; 0.1% available immediately. Greensand is the organic gardener's choice for potash and trace elements. Benefits of Greensand: Organic source of potassium and other trace elements Loosens clay soils Binds sandy soils. It comes from the marine deposits of ancient seabeds that is loaded with iron and other trace minerals. It can be a problem in soils with high levels of iron.

Lava sand is loaded with trace minerals and water holding ability. It is an energy soil amendment that you can use as much as you want to for as long as you want. Remember that the most productive soils in the world are in places with a history of volcanic activity.

Crushed granite, as an organic fertilizer, is a slow-releasing source of potassium and trace minerals. It contains 67% silica and 19% trace minerals. Be sure to add sufficient amounts of organic matter (compost) so bacteria can convert these minerals to needed nutrients.

Coffee grounds are acidic and contain many minerals and are great to use around acid loving plants. Can be used in the garden and compost pile to increase the nitrogen level. They have a 20-1 carbon to nitrogen ratio so you do not want to use any more than 25 percent in your compost pile.

Peat moss has about the same acidity as coffee grounds and is a good way to lower the pH of your soil.
Sulfur is an essential plant nutrient as well as a good way of lowering soil pH. Use soil sulfur which will release more slowly and be less likely to overwhelm beneficial soil.

Vinegar, especially fruit vinegar, will improve the quality of alkaline water when mixed at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. At this rate it is highly beneficial, especially when your soil or water is alkaline or you are trying to grow acid loving plants.

Alfalfa meal (or pellets) contains around 3% nitrogen and is commonly used as an animal feed. It is an excellent fertilizer material in horticulture, and is said to contain unknown growth factors which make its mineral content more effective as plant nutrients.

Cottonseed meal is a rich source of nitrogen (7%). Unfortunately, a substantial percentage of the insecticides used in the U.S. are applied to cotton, and some of these tend to leave residues in the seeds. Most organic certification programs restrict or prohibit the use of cottonseed meal. 6-2-1

Soybean meal is a high nitrogen, high protein feed that, when broken down by microbes, provides natural organic nitrogen fertilizer. It provides a soluble form of phosphorous (7-2-1). With about 7% nitrogen it can be a useful, but expensive, fertilizer material.

Cornmeal, a natural fungicide, is a disease fighter that should be used until you have healthy soil.

Epsom salts is used as a fast acting source of magnesium and sulfur. It is an excellent organic fertilizer.

Molasses – A food for microorganisms in the soil, which contains trace minerals, sulfur and potash and is a good carbon source. It is a good quick source of energy for soil microbes and plays a very important part of a complete organic program.

Gypsum is an excellent source of micronutrients, sulfur and calcium. Used in clay soils because of its draining capabilities. It provides aeration.

Dolomite Lime- enriches soil with calcium and magnesium while helping to regulate and raise pH levels.

Fish meal and fish emulsion are rich in nitrogen. Fish meal contains about 10% nitrogen, along with about 6% phosphate. The fertilizer analysis of fish emulsion varies with the preparation method . Acid-digested fish emulsion usually has an analysis around 4-4-1, while enzyme-digested fish emulsion usually measured as 4-1-1. Fish emulsion may be fortified with chemical fertilizer, so organic farmers should be suspicious of any product with nitrogen content in excess of 5%.

Seaweed is a soil amendment and foliar feeding material which will increase plant production and stimulate root growth from the trace minerals as well as the growth regulators it contains. This organic fertilizer when combined with fish emulsion will make one of the best complete fertilizers. 0-0-12.5

Kelp meal is made from dried seaweed and is a good source of potassium, copper and boron. It is rich in plant food growth hormones and is a natural source of chelated trace elements that increases the health of the soil and plants. Use as an additive to organic fertilizers. 1-0-2

Bone meal is the best source of phosphorus and also contains calcium and some trace materials. Because of it's slow release, it is a safer fertilizer especially when potting or transplanting new or young plants. 4-12-0

Blood meal is a good source of nitrogen (13%) that you can add to your garden. The organisms in the soil will turn it into available nitrogen for plants. It is also a slow release source of calcium and phosphorus and is good for bulbs and most vegetables. Be careful to closely follow the instructions on how to apply the blood meal that you have purchased as it is a very concentrated form of nitrogen. Too much nitrogen in the soil can, at best, keep the plants from flowering or fruiting and, at worst, “burn” the plants and possibly kill them. It is smelly. 12-0-0

Humates/Humic Acids are the result of decomposed prehistoric plant and animal matter. It provides at least 70 trace minerals for plant health and human health. Humates are metal (mineral) salts of humic or fulvic acids. Microorganisms are stimulated to do their jobs. It helps aerate the soil, enhances water retention and acts to increase the soils ability to absorb nutrients into the soil. It provides buffering acids to guard the soil's pH. It is especially helpful when starting plants.

Mulch - 3 inches of mulch will not only protect your plants in the winter but will help keep the soil cool in the summer.It helps keep out weeds, but most importantly, as it composts, it will act as a slow release fertilizer. Maintain a three inch layer of mulch and help feed your plants.

Manure based organic compost – one of the building blocks of organics. It acts as a gentle fertilizer encouraging bacterial based microbial activity. Bacterial manure based composts produce nitrogen, and work best for the grasses and shrubs from the prairies. Examples are chicken, turkey, rabbit, cow, worm castings.

Plant based organic compost – another building block of organics. It acts as a gentle fertilizer encouraging beneficial fungal activity. Fungal, plant based composts, work best on trees, shrubs and plants from the forest. Examples are cotton burr, acidified cotton burr (with sulfur added), peat humus.

Indonesian Bat guano - Perfect for encouraging multiple blooms and hardy root growth, phosphorus-rich Indonesian Bat Guano (0.5-12-0.2) is all natural and suitable for use indoors and out. Indonesian Bat Guano restores a natural balance in the garden without increasing soil salt content or acidity and is safe for use around people and pets. May be used in water program or applied dry.

Jamaican Bat Guano - 1-10-0.2 Nothing is better for blooming flowers or ripening fruits than pure, high-phosphorus Sunleaves Jamaican Bat Guano. Jamaican Bat Guano is most effectively used at the root zone to heighten root and flower development. Gardeners can amend their soil with it, use it as a top dressing or create a "guano tea" and apply it directly to plant roots in a fortified water dilution

Mexican Bat Guano - Mexican Bat Guano 10-2-1 Pure bat guano has been used for centuries as a plant food of the highest quality. An excellent source of nitrogen and trace elements all vegetative crops need, Sunleaves Mexican Bat Guano (10 - 2 - 1) substantially boosts leaf growth & overall plant vigor

Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG) - With absolutely no chemical additives, Peruvian Seabird Guano (10-10-2) offers the highest quality in organic fertilization and is even OMRI listed. Peruvian Seabird Guano is pelletized for water solubility with less mess. There is nothing like it for accelerating growth - growers can use Peruvian Seabird Guano indoors and out on houseplants, vegetables, ornamental's and fruit trees

Azomite - A to Z Minerals- A Complete Organic Fertilizer A Source of Minerals & Trace Elements Azomite is the name of a special rock in Utah. Early this century geological prospector Rollin Anderson found deposits of montmorillonite clay in a valley south of Salt Lake City. U.S.Bureau of Mines analysis showed the clay is similar to Chilean/Peruvian caliche rocks from which much of the world's nitrate was mined. Anderson ground montmorillonite as fine as possible, then put it in his garden. Results were amazing and nearly immediate. Minerals in Azomite are necessary to optimal metabolism in living things. Ground to dust, minerals are small enough to pass through cell walls of organisms

Worm Castings - 1-0-0 Nature's Finest Fertilizer Earthworm castings contain abundant essential elements plants need for healthy growth. Odorless and non-toxic, worm castings are a natural organic fertilizer that will not wash out with watering, and will not burn even delicate plants. Castings rival chemical fertilizers in their nutrient composition, providing a concentrated source of calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphates and potash. Castings are also safe - you can use them for annuals, perennials, seedlings, African violets, even cacti and succulents, without any threat of chemical harm to either your plants or yourself. . Indoors, use one part castings to three parts potting soil. Outdoors, line the bottom of your hole or furrow with three inches of castings

Mushroom Compost - Rich in organic matter; fully composted for superior garden results. Once used to grow tabletop mushrooms. A 7.0 to 7.4 pH helps balance acidic soil conditions. Not recommended for acid-loving plants. Mix 1 part mushroom compost with 2 to 3 parts native soils when preparing planting beds.

Rock Phosphate - is a 100% natural source of phosphorus. Plants require this nutrient for healthy root development and for fruit and flower production. Mined from natural rock with phosphorus-rich deposits, Rock Phosphate is washed to eliminate clay impurities and then heated to remove moisture. Rock Phosphate is ground to such a fine powder, an efficient part of it is immediately available to your plants. As your plants' roots give off carbon dioxide and certain organic acids that react with the Rock Phosphate, the fine powder makes the phosphorus available for plant use as needed, resulting in a long-term, slow-release nutrient source

Compost Tea Mix - 1:4-1:10 compost to water in an open container, stir occasionally. Let steep at least 3 days at 15-25°C (50-70 °F).

Aerobic Compost Tea - Add oxygen to compost, increased number of microbes. Brew 24-36 hours. Must be used within 2 hrs of brewing.
keepem green dirrtyd
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Went and got some mushroom compost today going to make a 12ft long by 5ft wide bed on the side of the house. Going to till the mushroom compost in now let set until May and plant some fast finishing strains on that side. Transplanted the gurls into larger square pots today set them outside to get some sun they loved it. Keepem green dirrtyd
 

Cronik363

Well-Known Member
new to organics and i have read about a couple soil mixs but my question is with organics do you just mix up your soil and then just water with phd water or do you guys still use nutes and if so what brand i was using botanicare growin in coco but ive been checkin out h&g , i like coco but i really like good tastin buds and from what i hear organics is the way to go im just not understanding what i use to stay organic , props on the mix looks technical as hell .
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
ideally you want a mix that will last through out the whole grow without having to feed anything, just water, but if your soil mix runs out of juice before it supposed to and you don't want to use bottled nutrients you can simply top dress with your soil mix and water thoroughly .....I also let my soil mix "cook" for a few weeks before using......
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Will be tilling my whole backyard this weekend the first and the last time. I will be tilling in mushroom compost and some fertilizer then I will make beds. The greenhouse will be used for container plants only. The summer grow will be only three or four strains for now subject to change. Medijuana,GC,Mango, my cross kanangaxblueberry. keepem green dirrtyd
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
new to organics and i have read about a couple soil mixs but my question is with organics do you just mix up your soil and then just water with phd water or do you guys still use nutes and if so what brand i was using botanicare growin in coco but ive been checkin out h&g , i like coco but i really like good tastin buds and from what i hear organics is the way to go im just not understanding what i use to stay organic , props on the mix looks technical as hell .
What I do is mix up everything in a tote. Pour in a gallon or two of water and mollasses let sit for a month or more. Keepin the soil moist but not wet during that time. I have been able to only use water in the past no ph of anything with this mix. I dont use extra nutes with this mix I just topdress with some extra mix I have sitting. I will be recycling this soil mix for sure just taking out the root ball choppping up and giving to the wormfarm. This mix has been worked on and it still is not all the way there but it gives off good smooth tasting buds.
How the hell did I miss this?
Cause you was looking some where else I'm going to keep pushing the envelope. keepem green dirrtyd
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Well I see three more sets of cotyledons there will definitely be some seeds coming this year. Going to add more cfl's to the mix. By the third week of February I will throw them outside. Then I will harvest end of April. keepem green dirrtyd
 

Snafu1236

Well-Known Member
Not a big fan of cal carb so far. Havent tested much under controlled study, but honestly the white spray gets all over everything, is difficult to apply underneath the leaves, and makes the plants look all white and spotty. Not a huge fan.
 

dirrtyd

Well-Known Member
Not a big fan of cal carb so far. Havent tested much under controlled study, but honestly the white spray gets all over everything, is difficult to apply underneath the leaves, and makes the plants look all white and spotty. Not a huge fan.
Thanks for the info I will not be trying it this year then. It is pretty cheap at the local orchards supply. Keepem green dirtyd
 

Kratose

Well-Known Member
Whats going on Dirty. Was talking to angry about Kellogs Premium Soil. He told me you have some experience using it.

I am on a budget right now....long story why....but I am not happy with the soil I am using now. Its burning my plants. To heavy on nutes and the PH is off. So I was asking about a soil that would be good for seedlings. Someone previously mentioned Kellogs. So I wanted to find out from someone if they used it with seedlings ever and if they would recommend it. I heard its a good alternative to FoxFarm.

I am guessing its great for vegging plants but how does seedlings do in it? Any info you could give would be much appreciated






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