grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
You'll have an outstanding grow.
do you have your drying room set up?
do you have your drying room set up?
Is my plant gonna make it?
- Thread starter fatc2k3
- Start date
I was going to dry and cure using the second post in this topic(https://www.rollitup.org/harvesting-curing/8472-how-cure.html)Any tips?
I have another walk in wardrobe around the same size which would be in complete darkness.
I`ve also ordered a hydrometer which should be here in a day or 2 to keep an eye on the humidty when drying. (should have had one from the off , still ill know for next time )
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
I use glass jars, old school, here we go!
Trimming and drying your buds.
Trimming and drying your buds.
There are many different methods you can try but here I will only talk about a few of them that are more old school and accepted methods then the rest.
First thing it’s a myth to think hanging a plant upside down will increase THC percent. That is an old hippy tale told around the trimming can at harvest time while you pass a fat J back and forth.
Hanging them upside down is only easy and that’s about it. You can cut the plant at the bottom, trim off all the fan leaves (that’s if you have not already done so the last week before harvest to increase light and air flow). The fan leaves don’t have enough trichomes to even add them to the trim for hash. Just trash them way to much chlorophyll in those leaves.
Once you have cut down your plant at the base and the fan leaves are gone you can clip your trim leaves as well just store those in a paper grocery bag for drying. The trim leaves are the larger leaves around your flowers (buds) just cut those as close as you can to the flower with out cutting the flower. Those have trichomes on them so keep them as your hash trim.
By now you should have just sticks with flowers showing.
Hang the plant as an easy way to store them for the drying. You keep them in a dry, dark and warm place for about 7-14 day’s depending on how big your plant is. If it’s too big just cut the branches off and hang them separately. You want air to be able to move around the plant freely to dry evenly but not directly on the flowers.
The next option is to cut the buds off the branches once you have trimmed them. You then use a metal window screen to set the flowers on the dry. You want air movement around in the dry area but you don’t want direct air moving across the flowers just passive air. Like a bounce airflow where it bounces off one side and then crosses the flowers works.
Slow drying is preferred but not required (here is where many people will get pissed)
Drying is only part of the process and you can speed up the drying process by about a week or better if you have a cabinet to use. A good dry cabinet is one made with cedar lined walls and door. The cedar will draw out the moisture and keep bugs away. You can use a very small heater and small fan as well just to move the air around. You want to dry the flowers at a temperature around 85f that will dry them slowly but faster then if you just hang them in a closet. You get a evenly dry flower ready to cure in about 3-5 day’s in a cabinet and if you are drying 5 pounds or more that is fast.
Once you have dry buds (the stems snap) you use glass mason jars like the ones your grandmother used to store preserves when you were a kid. Fill the jars with flowers but don’t pack them in you want airflow around them so they cure evenly on all sides.
Check them every day and look for moisture forming on the glass if you see moisture open it up and let them breath for a few hours then close it back up and check it again the next day. Most of the time if they are dry going in you will not have moisture build up but you may so keep an eye on them.
If you have no moisture forming you still need to let the jars breath for about a hour every 3-5 day’s so the gas escapes.
The idea at this point is to get rid of the ammonia odor. That is the chlorophyll being used by the flower, one last-ditch stand to keep alive. You need to rid the flower of the chlorophyll to improve the taste.
Curing takes anywhere from 10 day’s to 30 day’s or more depending on several factors and you can’t speed up this process at this point. If you stopped feeding them (N) the last 10-day’s before flushed this process should not take as long.
If you over dry them you can just add a fresh picked leaf from one of your other plants and that will bring just a small bit of moisture back into them and that’s all you want a small amount.
That’s about it for trimming and harvesting the real hard part is the waiting for them to cure, you can smoke some after it is dry but it improves with age.
Good luck, Grandpa
First thing it’s a myth to think hanging a plant upside down will increase THC percent. That is an old hippy tale told around the trimming can at harvest time while you pass a fat J back and forth.
Hanging them upside down is only easy and that’s about it. You can cut the plant at the bottom, trim off all the fan leaves (that’s if you have not already done so the last week before harvest to increase light and air flow). The fan leaves don’t have enough trichomes to even add them to the trim for hash. Just trash them way to much chlorophyll in those leaves.
Once you have cut down your plant at the base and the fan leaves are gone you can clip your trim leaves as well just store those in a paper grocery bag for drying. The trim leaves are the larger leaves around your flowers (buds) just cut those as close as you can to the flower with out cutting the flower. Those have trichomes on them so keep them as your hash trim.
By now you should have just sticks with flowers showing.
Hang the plant as an easy way to store them for the drying. You keep them in a dry, dark and warm place for about 7-14 day’s depending on how big your plant is. If it’s too big just cut the branches off and hang them separately. You want air to be able to move around the plant freely to dry evenly but not directly on the flowers.
The next option is to cut the buds off the branches once you have trimmed them. You then use a metal window screen to set the flowers on the dry. You want air movement around in the dry area but you don’t want direct air moving across the flowers just passive air. Like a bounce airflow where it bounces off one side and then crosses the flowers works.
Slow drying is preferred but not required (here is where many people will get pissed)
Drying is only part of the process and you can speed up the drying process by about a week or better if you have a cabinet to use. A good dry cabinet is one made with cedar lined walls and door. The cedar will draw out the moisture and keep bugs away. You can use a very small heater and small fan as well just to move the air around. You want to dry the flowers at a temperature around 85f that will dry them slowly but faster then if you just hang them in a closet. You get a evenly dry flower ready to cure in about 3-5 day’s in a cabinet and if you are drying 5 pounds or more that is fast.
Once you have dry buds (the stems snap) you use glass mason jars like the ones your grandmother used to store preserves when you were a kid. Fill the jars with flowers but don’t pack them in you want airflow around them so they cure evenly on all sides.
Check them every day and look for moisture forming on the glass if you see moisture open it up and let them breath for a few hours then close it back up and check it again the next day. Most of the time if they are dry going in you will not have moisture build up but you may so keep an eye on them.
If you have no moisture forming you still need to let the jars breath for about a hour every 3-5 day’s so the gas escapes.
The idea at this point is to get rid of the ammonia odor. That is the chlorophyll being used by the flower, one last-ditch stand to keep alive. You need to rid the flower of the chlorophyll to improve the taste.
Curing takes anywhere from 10 day’s to 30 day’s or more depending on several factors and you can’t speed up this process at this point. If you stopped feeding them (N) the last 10-day’s before flushed this process should not take as long.
If you over dry them you can just add a fresh picked leaf from one of your other plants and that will bring just a small bit of moisture back into them and that’s all you want a small amount.
That’s about it for trimming and harvesting the real hard part is the waiting for them to cure, you can smoke some after it is dry but it improves with age.
Good luck, Grandpa
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
phosphorus lock-out secondary to near-drowning. easier to lock, than unlock. good luck. i would hold all food and water. until pot feels empty .........really light. or til they wilt from thirst.
all this is in my humble opinion
all this is in my humble opinion
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
Now you know I'm with you on this: scrogldyte. That is why I left this out! It's left up to the grower how they want to do it! LOL
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
i hear ya Granpa. i feel like a parrot sometimes. *squawk* i feel like a parrot sometimes
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
That's why I BARK the same think over and over again BARK BARK BARK!!
Some listen, I hope
Some listen, I hope
So i should hold off everything until it wilts ? then...... flush , or just water or?
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
not to actual wilt. just until the pots are actually dry. just water, no flush. i had P lock-out once that just persisted. hope yours does well
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
That's the big debate now. Well it's been going on for some time now.
You got to look at photosynthesis and how long it take to get from you doing something and it really reaching your buds. OK. This will be up to you.
Old school people stop everything about a week or so before harvest to assist in the dry.
Newer folks don't, they flush with water and nutes a couple of weeks before to boost in the harvest.
???
Like I have said I'm old school. So this one's on you.
You got to look at photosynthesis and how long it take to get from you doing something and it really reaching your buds. OK. This will be up to you.
Old school people stop everything about a week or so before harvest to assist in the dry.
Newer folks don't, they flush with water and nutes a couple of weeks before to boost in the harvest.
???
Like I have said I'm old school. So this one's on you.
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
Glad you showed up!
Would flushing help? or is it best to just leave until the pots dry then water like mentioned? And what will the first signs of it returning to normal be?
Sorry for such a noob question but is p lock-out ,p being locked out or p locking other nutes out? And i wished i`d have known this 24 hours ealier as i just fed with canna pk 13/14 this morning / that good or bad ?
we all learn by mistakes and it adds experience i suppose
thanks for all your replies
Sorry for such a noob question but is p lock-out ,p being locked out or p locking other nutes out? And i wished i`d have known this 24 hours ealier as i just fed with canna pk 13/14 this morning / that good or bad ?
we all learn by mistakes and it adds experience i suppose
thanks for all your replies
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
Yours is auto strain ,and I have never grown any. I'm not sure when yours should be ready? I think you said it was 6 weeks old? How much longer should you have according to the auto stain? Auto's have a shorter growth to bud ready span. Re read all info and go from there. Your problem should straighten out if you follow everthing. Good luck. We are here for you.
According to where i bought the seed it has 7-9 week flowering , doesnt say overall life span. As i only gave canna pk 13/14 yesterday is it a good idea to flush today , dont want to drown her? But i have read that flushing is good for nute lock-out.(i know scroglodyte said not to flush but im not sure how letting the pot dry out will solve the lock out as there is still going to be a build up) maybe u could explain? I think the plant has a good few weeks left at least but then again i am noob so dont really know the signs
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
it should dry out like that every time. not just this time. drink, breathe, drink, breathe. a pot can seem mighty darn dry, and be wet where the majority of roots are. the weight test never lies.
flushing? looks like its been flushed.......continually.
flushing? looks like its been flushed.......continually.
scroglodyte
Well-Known Member
the crispiness is the P lock-out, not dessication. those crispy leaves are done. forget them. normalize soil conditions and re-assess. hopefully the P will flow.....lol.
I M O
I M O
grandpa 1949
Well-Known Member
If your plants need water, water them!
Do you have a watering probe moisture probe, or do you know the lift the pot method of watering?
Do you have a watering probe moisture probe, or do you know the lift the pot method of watering?