Techniques/training for reducing stretch

xtract44

Member
Hello everyone, I have been issues with stretching as of lately, I am doing 2 medium/large plants DWC in 24 gallon res under a 600W. I have moved into a bigger area recently and i am still getting everything dialed in. however this time around i have had more stretch than anticipated, i am almost finished up now ( I dealt with this stretch by bending...its not so pretty sometimes) ; So this is mainly for the next go around. I haven't had any issues with stretching in awhile and since my next go will be clones of the current stretchers...I want to be prepared.

I bought some phosphoload back in 2008-2009ish when I was having similar issues.. I haven't had to use it in about 2 years at least. I was planning on using some this next go around, however upon stumbling across some disheartening information ( being that it contains cancerous carcinogens :shock: ) , I will no longer be using this product.

I have plenty of space..its like they can sense that the room is 6.5 ft tall lol. They stretched so much a specific day when they were just about 2 weeks into flowering that by the time i went down to check them I had burned forming tops v.v. So I trimmed them up tied stuff down ( it has pushed my finishing date back a bit for certain bud sites that got burned which are now buds ) Anyway, ill stop rambling on and get down to the actual question..

What is everyone else doing to prevent massive height growth? Besides the basic LST and SCROG, lets get specific, what are your methods? What things you have noticed that seem to make a difference? How large are you vegging to? Does it work well for just soil, hydro or both?

P.S . I ussually let them get about 1.5-2 feet in veg
 

gogsyc

Active Member
some people lower the temps and use MH lamps for first few weeks of flower, i just place pots or buckets under the smaller ones to create an even canopy
 

jayfury

Active Member
Lights should always remain in line.... you raise or lower the plant to bring it close to the lights.... If there is no gap in between, then there is not much room for stretch... I do this with Milk crates
 

DrGreener

New Member
Lights should always remain in line.... you raise or lower the plant to bring it close to the lights.... If there is no gap in between, then there is not much room for stretch... I do this with Milk crates
lol ok they have invented light adjusters so there's no need to rasie plant to light but rather many growers will move there lights around plant for instance one day have light on one side then next on other side and so on no biggie tho
 

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xtract44

Member
some people lower the temps and use MH lamps for first few weeks of flower, i just place pots or buckets under the smaller ones to create an even canopy
Unfortunately I have no way of cooling my room anymore, although my temperatures aren't that bad, anywhere between 75-82 F with lights on and around 65-70 with lights off. ( I do have Some ac running to the room)


Only thing that you can do is lower your lights and keep super cropping tops up to 10th day of flower
I keep my lights as low to the plants as possible, about a foot or so away; usually a little more.

Lights should always remain in line.... you raise or lower the plant to bring it close to the lights.... If there is no gap in between, then there is not much room for stretch... I do this with Milk crates


I try to keep my light in line as much as I can, unless they happen to stretch a lot overnight...apparently lol. I can move my lights up and down as much as I'd like. It just seems they never stop wanting to go up! Maybe I am being too paranoid and raising the light too readily and it is promoting stretching? I have never had this much headroom. It just seems like whenever I move the light to try and adjust they go " Oh, lets grow 2 inches taller"


Edit : DrGreener, how are you keeping that Screen stable? is that a wooden frame around it? Looks nice
 

DrGreener

New Member
i made a 5 x 8 table with hooks on all 4 corners and middle have it hanging from ceiling with rope to make it adjustable works slick
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
You can use MH instead of HPS for the first two weeks of 12/12. That will reduce stretch some.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Is there aything like phosphoload nowadays without the carcinogens??
Phosphoload is a growth inhibitor. You don't wanna be smoking that kinda shit, carcinogenic or not. Phosphoload is only legally sold for ornamentals. It's not to be used on fruits or vegetables.
 

AWnox

Active Member
You can use MH instead of HPS for the first two weeks of 12/12. That will reduce stretch some.
In your experience does that elongate the transition into flowering since it doesn't have the spectrum of light the plant associates itself with the change in season?
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
In your experience does that elongate the transition into flowering since it doesn't have the spectrum of light the plant associates itself with the change in season?
No. It's not the wavelength of light that signals the plant to flower, it's the length of the dark periods that signals this.
 

dvs1038

Well-Known Member
Up until the point where the upper portion of my bud tips were exposed enuf I would pinch the stem to cause some damage to slow growth. Once the upper 3" of each stem is covered by premature bud and hairs that I don't wanna damage is when I stop and just let the plant do its own thing. Only thing I'm not sure on right now is quite a few leaves on the lower half and inside my canopy r yellowing and dying so I was thinkin I might wanna hit it with some veg nutes to get it some nitrogen in the next 1 or 2 watering cycles. Then go back to this flowering tea recipe I found that I like to use. Plant is Orange Krush strain.
lower half
dvs1038-298829-albums-new-grow-picture2251742-idk-if-its-losing-too.jpg dvs1038-298829-albums-new-grow-picture2251744-2012-07-11-21-35.jpg upper half.
 

DrGreener

New Member
What you need to do is trim up allot of the lower leafs and little bud sites this will send more energy to upper bud sites. I am not sure on your flowering nutrients but don;t add veg nutes keep on flowering regime
add calmag if your not already and if you are then give it a little more calmag flowering period plants need lots of P and K not as much N if you don;t have calmag supplement then use epsom salt ( quick fix ) not to be used as a reg feeding purchase calmag lol you can also add either liquid honey , or black strap molasses this products have lots of micro nutrients that also will help for any deficiencies.
Adding MH in flower makes more leafs best way to control stretching is know your strain lower lights in first 2 weeks of flower , and super crop / pinch all tops allowing a plant to stretch is bad you only get one top bud and your lower buds never join up in turn Small nugs more trimming
Key to nice buds is tight nodes that's why many growers like to use Flourescents added in there veg room here are some end of day 20 flowering pics buds will be 14" long and all joined up when done like the bud sitting on top of the 5 gallon bucket :)
 

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ru4r34l

Well-Known Member
Only thing that you can do is lower your lights and keep super cropping tops up to 10th day of flower
What you need to do is trim up allot of the lower leafs and little bud sites this will send more energy to upper bud sites. I am not sure on your flowering nutrients but don;t add veg nutes keep on flowering regime
add calmag if your not already and if you are then give it a little more calmag flowering period plants need lots of P and K not as much N if you don;t have calmag supplement then use epsom salt ( quick fix ) not to be used as a reg feeding purchase calmag lol you can also add either liquid honey , or black strap molasses this products have lots of micro nutrients that also will help for any deficiencies.
Adding MH in flower makes more leafs best way to control stretching is know your strain lower lights in first 2 weeks of flower , and super crop / pinch all tops allowing a plant to stretch is bad you only get one top bud and your lower buds never join up in turn Small nugs more trimming
Key to nice buds is tight nodes that's why many growers like to use Flourescents added in there veg room here are some end of day 20 flowering pics buds will be 14" long and all joined up when done like the bud sitting on top of the 5 gallon bucket :)
I super crop and use veg nutes right up until 2nd week of flower and usually find it does not hamper final harvest at all, and I harvest a nice health green plant with no visible defencies.

regards,
 

dvs1038

Well-Known Member
I'm hopin to end up with sumptin similar 2 urs I'm sure I won't reach ur size on my 1st supercrop/lst attempt, but I will continue my experimentation with following grows. But how far into ur flowering period do u wait till u stop pinching off ur buds to keep em even?
 

DrGreener

New Member
I super crop and use veg nutes right up until 2nd week of flower and usually find it does not hamper final harvest at all, and I harvest a nice health green plant with no visible defencies.

regards,
Normally when flipping to flower the transition period week one you add half of veg nutes with flower nutes week 2 all flowering nutes
 
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