bobhopetoo
Member
great white is available in the uk and biobizz earth worm humus,with tate and lyle black treacle
used successfully
used successfully
they gave me the au 60 free at my local shop to try it out so I might conduct an expt with it in a separate bucket.AU 60 root repair is a organic microbe suppressant. It can not be used in conjunction with any microbes. Sounds like an interesting product, but I can not give you any reports on it's effectiveness with slime. Slime does not attack a plant directly, so I am not sure if this can help.
As for the mycogrow, best to email and ask them directly. http://www.fungi.com/contact.html
Thanks for all help Heisenberg and to the rest of you guys as well, really do appreciate it..You should come out with a couple keepers from your mix pack. Cheese and lemon skunk both grew phenomenal for me. All my GHS beans sprouted just fine. I may have ended up with more keepers but the slime took out the others. The sensi grow has been known to cause slime IF it includes the PH perfect formula. If it does not have the PH perfect, I think it's okay. Your RO water will be great to use for tea.
Good luck
Hey, thanks for the pic buddy, appreciate it cause I have never seen something like that on mine but only slight coloration of the roots so maybe I don´t have the slime?I am a first time grower and am in week five- i have been battling slime for 3 weeks. I had to order what i needed for the tea of amazon and it took a while to clear customs. i started with brown slime- used dm zone and h202- it nuked it... for a while, went on holiday for a week, had a friend look after my grow, told him to shoot h202 into the res when he saw slime, came back to clear snot on everything,
View attachment 2309583
got my tea brewed, put it in yesterday, their is a slight amount of slime this morning and my ph went from 5.8 to 6.9. Hopefully their is a microbe battle raging.
Heisenberg- i appreciate all the effort you have put into this thread!!!!
I always have my roots in the water when the plants are young. Once I have 4 or 5 inch roots I start allowing a tiny air gap between the pot and the water line. As the roots get longer I let the gap grow to about an inch. One sure sign of slime is zero root production in water. I have seen new roots come out of the net pot above a slimy base, and as soon as the reach the water they stop growing. Using a lava rock was the key for me getting a new res under control, but it has still been a battle keeping it that way. I am adding a bit of tea daily and i see no signs of slime, but I know it is there because the roots are growing much slower than normal. They are growing though, which means the bennies are winning so far.Thanks for all help Heisenberg and to the rest of you guys as well, really do appreciate it..
No Heisenberg the Sensi Grow is the old one without PH perfect formula in it, I take it that is a good thing then? But if I´m to be 100% honest with you my biggest problem of them all is that whether it is the slime, Pythium or whatever I´m dealing with I just wish I had a larger plant to try to save atm? I have been trying so hard lately to get roots to come out the netpot but they just want do it, absolutely crazy! Also when it comes down to clones I expected better results simply cause the clones I have done so far have sooo much more roots coming out it´s start-medium then any seed but doesn´t seam to matter at all? If I only knew someone in Stockholm area that could give me a clone with long roots on it that can reach the water, lol..
I have never had that much foam. Sounds to me like you are using too much ingredients or not enough water. You can use the tea in coco, the bennies love it, but you can't directly adjust the PH of the tea without killing some. You can adjust a separate jug of water and then use that to mix with tea until you get to where you want. I wont take much tea to inoculate coco. The tea will not harm seedlings or cuttings, and will help protect against damping off. The mycos themselves though will not take hold until actual roots develop.My very first try in DWC bucket with a cheese strain was very successful up to a point despite high temps and little to no understanding of it, didn´t even give the gear a good scrub before using them at all, lol.. No ph adjusting the rockwool or anything like that, still it was so fast at sprouting roots out of the net pot and they were thick + a foot long after 3 weeks before smelling and coming to a halt. After that nothing I do can make roots come out a netpot again so I was thinking I wanna try to grow in coco instead to later on clean roots and transfer to DWC if that can be done?
My second batch of tea had so much foam in it was hard to keep it in container, is that normal? + Can I use that tea in coco and if so is it OK to PH adjust it before going into the pots?
I have tried already but don´t know if it´s a good idea or not, also it took insane amounts of ph down to adjust it. Compared to water ridiculous levels even.
..one last thing, when can I use the tea as earliest? Can it be used on newly sprouted seedlings for example or do I have to wait to a certain point?
definitely some slime and a funky odor, but also this white foam which i hope is an epic microbe battle going on- the pic keeps loading upside downView attachment 2311247
Thanks for the tips. When I had to do this it was so long ago that I barely remember what my plants looked like. Pretty sure I kept them under a low light. In fact my plants were only in dirt for about 3 weeks and I got things under control. I remember when I dug them up they had a really nice root base, and re-took to DWC with no problems.So its day 6 after transplant to soil after no luck at keeping the slime down during these hot summer months. I believe the problem i had controling the tea was the drastic change in temp. While the tea was brewed at approx. 72 degrees to 82 degrees, where i live the change from night temp and day temp were too diverse. I live in Lake Tahoe, so during August my room temp would go to 87 degrees and at night it would drop to 65. Not much i could do, not like living in socal coast where the day/night temps are fairly similar.
I believe the hot temps allowed the cyanobacteria to start multiplying, and while i did keep frozen bottles to drop temps to about 82 and in the teas range, i think when it dropped at night, the tea was ineffective while the slime used this time to get ahead.
Anyway, if anyone has this problem and the tea couldnt quite cut it for the summer months and you do have to transplant medium size plants to soil/soiless medium (that have NO healthy root mass visible) here is a few pointers...
When transplanting, i used ph'd water and added some tea. also sprayed mycos on the roots before going in.
In a six light room i use one light at lowest digital setting for entire space, raised as much as possible. unhealthliest plants placed on outskirts, receiving the least amount possible.
Like other threads, keep the initial watering minimal, only surrounding the area the (ugly) dead rootmass.
Once almost completely dry and showing signs of dehydration, add about 1-2 cups to water. very low nutes.
during the next few weeks, pick off large fanleaves that the plant is showing you it cant support (the plant will be perky, the leaves it wants gone will droop and discolor. I wait till its been droopy for a few days, to let plant pull as much nutrients left the leaf.
Heres what they dont mention on other threads about hydro to soil transplant (after root rot or slime). You will notice drooping depending on the health of the plant. Some of mine do not show right away ether. They sometimes take a few days to shock droop or wilt, but it appears with no healthy root mass, its somewhat uncontrolable. Most plants in this state take over a week to kick even SOMEWHAT into gear. After two, your going green again, most old leaves will still have that dry look to them but will now be perky again. Heres what i had to learn myself, DO NOT LET ROOM TEMPS DROP UNDER 72 DEGREES if possible. I noticed every morning i would have a droop similar to COMPLETE dehydration.. but the soil is wet. This is most likely due to the root tempature. Once the day temps raised above 72, they slowly start to perk up, but they looked ready to pull they were so droopy during the night. (this is a 24/0 veg)
Of course we know when having seedlings/ clones/ small plants we need a warm root zone to get optimal growth, and 68 degrees wont hurt them, although its not the best condition for them to b in. But after the slime and transplant, keep temps at 75-85 religiously. If not, your plant will most likely die or take twice as long to start to grow healthy roots.
Mr. Berg, have you noticed this in your past experience with transplanting?
Several of us have found that when you make less than 2 gallons of tea it is less effective. I would up the recipe by 1 gallon and go with a full tbps of carboload, and 1/2 cup AF.Hey Heisenberg, I was wondering if you think this recipe would work(?) And if not what adjustments to the amounts would you make?
1 gallon Reverse Osmosis water
1 tsp Great White
1 tsp ZHO Powder
3/4 tbsp CarboLoad from Advanced Nutrients
1/8 cup Ancient Forest
Thank you!
I also have some samples form a hydro store of Mykos Drops (they look like little tea bags) from Xtreme Gardening and Orca from Plant Success and was wondering how you would advise to use them, or if they are just not worth my time(?)
Looks fine but save the ZHO for about hour 46.Thanks Heisenberg. If I wanted to make 3 gallons at a time, would this work? Or would you advise a different amount for any of the ingredients below?
3 gallons Reverse Osmosis water
3 tsp Great White
3 tsp ZHO Powder
1.5 tbsp CarboLoad
3/4 cup Ancient Forest
Right on. Thank you for your help, lots of gratitude... Using your recipe I've been very successful in cleaning up my root rot and my plants look super happy!Looks fine but save the ZHO for about hour 46.
Yeah, prolly to much ingredients I would say, or to little water depending on how you look at it. So few plants so making 1 gallon at a time despite knowing 2 is better, might change that if needed!I always have my roots in the water when the plants are young. Once I have 4 or 5 inch roots I start allowing a tiny air gap between the pot and the water line. As the roots get longer I let the gap grow to about an inch. One sure sign of slime is zero root production in water. I have seen new roots come out of the net pot above a slimy base, and as soon as the reach the water they stop growing. Using a lava rock was the key for me getting a new res under control, but it has still been a battle keeping it that way. I am adding a bit of tea daily and i see no signs of slime, but I know it is there because the roots are growing much slower than normal. They are growing though, which means the bennies are winning so far.
I have never had that much foam. Sounds to me like you are using too much ingredients or not enough water. You can use the tea in coco, the bennies love it, but you can't directly adjust the PH of the tea without killing some. You can adjust a separate jug of water and then use that to mix with tea until you get to where you want. I wont take much tea to inoculate coco. The tea will not harm seedlings or cuttings, and will help protect against damping off. The mycos themselves though will not take hold until actual roots develop.
Sorry to be so curious here Heisenberg but wanted to see if I really understood you correctly here? You dug up plants in dirt to clean roots and put them into FWC again? I had that though myself but worried about destroying the roots when digging it up/rinsing the root base?Thanks for the tips. When I had to do this it was so long ago that I barely remember what my plants looked like. Pretty sure I kept them under a low light. In fact my plants were only in dirt for about 3 weeks and I got things under control. I remember when I dug them up they had a really nice root base, and re-took to DWC with no problems.