Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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cmak40

Well-Known Member
If you seal the outside of the room so no air leaks in, it won't leak out either. If the plywood were necessary on an inside wall all of the houses in the country would be falling down. Thats a nice room you have. VV

thank you vm. it ALL stemed from this thread and i definately owe al a spliff:joint:

i also have just plain ol 1/4 inch plywood under my panda film for the built wall for outward appearance

You'd grow plants, for sure, but I think you may begin to get somewhat ordinary production on the fringe of the light coverage with a 600 over 4x4. It would be on the lower end of what I might suggest for a 4x4 table.

You could move plants around often to even out growth, but I think the result would be just to spread out the reduction in yield/density across the entire batch, sort of what happens with light movers.

You can always just not pack the table full to the edges of the light coverage if you don't get the density you want.
i know you told me not to but what i have is 2 4x4 areas with 2 2x4 trays in each, one(the first 4 weeks) has a 600 over it and the other 4x4 area(last 4 weeks) has a 1000 over it. i will eventually invest in another 1000 when i get my electrical better figured out.
 

Kuji

Active Member
A question about flowering time, If your growing a strain that may take a little longer than 8 weeks, can you just let the plants spend a few more days in each tray?

Like they're rotated every 2 weeks and three days rather than every 2 weeks so in the end it adds up to a little over 9 weeks.
 

smartfood

Well-Known Member
A question about flowering time, If your growing a strain that may take a little longer than 8 weeks, can you just let the plants spend a few more days in each tray?

Like they're rotated every 2 weeks and three days rather than every 2 weeks so in the end it adds up to a little over 9 weeks.
Of course, you just have to adjust when you take clones and the other variables to match your increased flowering period. Essentially you'd be on a 17 day rotation as opposed to Al's 14-day.
 

Kuji

Active Member
Thanks for your help Smart.

Could one switch to say 6 1/2 inch pots without affecting the yeild? I'd like to know becuase I can fit five across a 3by3 are with a little extra space, but if I use 8 inch pots I can only fit four. I'm currently looking for 7in pots:mrgreen:
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help Smart.

Could one switch to say 6 1/2 inch pots without affecting the yeild? I'd like to know becuase I can fit five across a 3by3 are with a little extra space, but if I use 8 inch pots I can only fit four. I'm currently looking for 7in pots:mrgreen:
DIY

Find a container and make some cuts?

:peace:

E
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Of course, you just have to adjust when you take clones and the other variables to match your increased flowering period. Essentially you'd be on a 17 day rotation as opposed to Al's 14-day.
Yep. What happens on the front end of the chain affects what happens on the back end. The main way to cause problems with the sequence, especially when starting the rotating harvest system, is to feed in more clones than you actually have room for. This forces you to harvest plants on the other end sooner than you should to clear the space. If on a 2-week rotation, only 1/4 the lighted space can be filled with clones every 2 weeks until the line is loaded.

Could one switch to say 6 1/2 inch pots without affecting the yeild? I'd like to know becuase I can fit five across a 3by3 are with a little extra space, but if I use 8 inch pots I can only fit four. I'm currently looking for 7in pots:mrgreen:
Yep- the pots I use are 175mm (6.9") dia, 130mm (5.1") dia on the bottoms. Another error I made in the first post- the pots are not 8". :roll:
 

lush1

Active Member
How comes you get up so early Al? growers stress? And yeah, as matey said above whats your current average yield at? I remember at one stage you saying you might be pushing the 30oz per crop barrier whatwith the cooltubes etc.

A question re. mothers: Do you think on an op exactly half this size you could make similar size clones using a 250w HPS? I'm thinking that you probably can't and that you would need a 400w in order to get the mums to he required size witin the time period? Also what size are the pots that your mums are in? I was thinking 8" pots would be enough.

Many thanks.
 

lush1

Active Member
Thanks for your help Smart.

Could one switch to say 6 1/2 inch pots without affecting the yeild? I'd like to know becuase I can fit five across a 3by3 are with a little extra space, but if I use 8 inch pots I can only fit four. I'm currently looking for 7in pots:mrgreen:
If you're in the UK then Wilkinsons have them. 7" pots are definatly around just don't seem to be on the web.
 

grandpabear3

New Member
alrighty then al, i was too much of a noob and bought a 2500.00 cool cab by sunlight sheds, and its wonderful! until i found your thread and learned about sog. so i have finally finished this thread and after much time and many notes i only have a few questions. the coolcab came with two bulbs. mh/hps, i have to finish a batch of white widow first but i have already got 2 mums going from the clones and the remaining clones in 12/12 400w hps .i intend to semi duplicate your op but $ is an issue for now.

what i want to do is use the cloning chamber on top of the cab and take the dwc res out and use the bottom to grow my mums under the 400w mh or i could take the cool tube out of the cab and use it for my flowering chanber and put some 4 footers in the corners of the cab for the mums , then i could use both the 400's mh/hps over my flood and drain tables. i read waaaay earlier in this thread the with sog i can fit 4 plants per sq ft so then i could concievably buy 1 2x4 table for table 1 and 2 since both are 1400 ppm then use 2 2x2's with their own reserviours so i can treat "tank 3" with that pk stuff...i cant recall the name but it's written down.
1. do you think i could run the tables in this fashion?
2. the 16sq ft says 800w for the lights, can i combine both the mh/hps in the flower area? if not i will have to buy 2 cool tubes and 2 400w ballasts for the area.right now the cool cab is using the cool tube and hps but if you gimme the ok on the tech side im gonna strip that baby and just use it for clone/mums. i only have 2 lines for power to the room now one is a 15amp and the other is 20amp. i know this is way too much info ...appologies...and thanks in advance to all of you very patient and helpfull people.
 

grandpabear3

New Member
each 2x2 will have 16 plants in then and i will put the batwing reflector on the cool tube/s.
the 4 footers are flouro's by the way.
cant find flytocel but have plenty of hydroton and was wondering if i cant find floc could i crush up some cubes for the bottom of the pots.
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
I actually think that's what I suggested you do with the lights you had on hand, wasn't it? :D
i think you told me to squeeze 2 600s and the 1000 over the whole 4x8 area. which is probably still a good idea but the electrical i have under control right now without blowing breakers and shit, and thats with the washing machine running and my sump pumps on. looking to buy a house tho so i may have to start again but this will allow me to get that 1000 and wire the way i want...:twisted:
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
i think you told me to squeeze 2 600s and the 1000 over the whole 4x8 area. which is probably still a good idea but the electrical i have under control right now without blowing breakers and shit, and thats with the washing machine running and my sump pumps on. looking to buy a house tho so i may have to start again but this will allow me to get that 1000 and wire the way i want...:twisted:
2 600w's are mo-betta than a single 1000w.. but that is all in the design.

:peace:

E
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
are they though? I've heard that a 1000w gives bud density greater than a 600w could.
(1) 1000w; 150,000 Lumens - 150L/w
(2) 600w; 95,000 Lumens - 158L/w

The two 600's will have a better coverage area.. but it is really dependent on the room design.

:peace:

E
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey AlB.Fuct how much do you yeild every 2 weeks and how tall are your plants when you start to clower them?
about 1.5lb every 2 weeks, when all is going well- my latest batch isn't going to touch that because I stuffed up the pH, but the batch behind it looks like it will hit the 23oz/23plants mark.

Plants are the same height (bout 200-230mm, 8-9") when going into the flowering area as they were when I cut them and stuck them in the clone box. The clonebox is not intended to veg the clones- only has some fluoros, intended only to convince the clones that it is daylight for 18+h/day.

SoG is all about zero veg time post the clones setting root. This is how we get short plants, literally growing the top cola only of a plant grown by natural means. Once the clones have a good spray of roots, they go in pots of media in the flowering area.

How comes you get up so early Al? growers stress?
Nah, I've had a sleep disorder for yeeeears. I only sleep about 60-90 mins at a time, tops. I get sick of being in bed after about 3-4h.

A question re. mothers: Do you think on an op exactly half this size you could make similar size clones using a 250w HPS? I'm thinking that you probably can't and that you would need a 400w in order to get the mums to he required size witin the time period? Also what size are the pots that your mums are in? I was thinking 8" pots would be enough.
I think I could probably run my 10 mums with a 250. Haven't tried it tho. However, I'm VERY confident that you could easily run half the number of mums I do with a 250.

All my plants are in 175mm pots.

alrighty then al, i was too much of a noob and bought a 2500.00 cool cab
ouch. :? For that kind of money, you could have come very close to duplicating my entire op, with 2x 1000HPS and a 400 for mums. I think it would cost about $3K to rebuild my op with all new parts.

what i want to do is use the cloning chamber on top of the cab and take the dwc res out and use the bottom to grow my mums under the 400w mh or i could take the cool tube out of the cab and use it for my flowering chanber and put some 4 footers in the corners of the cab for the mums , then i could use both the 400's mh/hps over my flood and drain tables. i read waaaay earlier in this thread the with sog i can fit 4 plants per sq ft so then i could concievably buy 1 2x4 table for table 1 and 2 since both are 1400 ppm then use 2 2x2's with their own reserviours so i can treat "tank 3" with that pk stuff...i cant recall the name but it's written down.
It's Canna's 'PK-13-14.'

1. do you think i could run the tables in this fashion?
2. the 16sq ft says 800w for the lights, can i combine both the mh/hps in the flower area? if not i will have to buy 2 cool tubes and 2 400w ballasts for the area.right now the cool cab is using the cool tube and hps but if you gimme the ok on the tech side im gonna strip that baby and just use it for clone/mums. i only have 2 lines for power to the room now one is a 15amp and the other is 20amp.
When you remember that lumens don't 'add' (for CFLs, HPS or even a dozen flashlights), your answer becomes clear. Given what you have on hand, use your MH for the mums, HPS for flowering plants, fluoros over your clones.

MH is a bit of a waste in flowering. Cannabis flowers in autumn, when the sun is rather low in the sky. The low angle creates a long path through the atmosphere, filtering most blue out of the spectrum. Thus, a red-yellow spectrum is a flowering trigger, along with a 12/12 hour photoperiod. The photoperiod is the main trigger- you could flower with the MH if you didn't have anything else. Buds might come up a bit leafier than I like, tho. HPS gives the best results in flowering because it most closely mimics late autumn sunlight in the subtropical/temperate latitudes where cannabis plants evolved.

My mother area, inclusive of flood tray, tank and clearance for the lights, requires just as much vertical height as my flowering area, a minimum of about 2m (6' and inches). I'm not sure you'll have enough vertical height in the bottom of your coolcab to raise up mums. They get very tall, very fast.

Your lighting equipment should be labelled with the current draw in amps as well as the power consumption in watts. Add up the amps to make sure that what you have on a ckt doesn't exceed 80% of the breaker rating.

If it's not labelled, you can figure a 400W HPS or MH will draw about 460W. Divide that by your line voltage and you get the current in watts. If on 120V, a 400 (which actually pulls about 460W from the AC mains) will draw 460W/120V=3.87 amps. On 240v, it's 460W/240V=1.91A. You're not going to be stressing your 15 & 20A ckts too much with a couple of 400s.

each 2x2 will have 16 plants in then and i will put the batwing reflector on the cool tube/s.
the 4 footers are flouro's by the way.
cant find flytocel but have plenty of hydroton and was wondering if i cant find floc could i crush up some cubes for the bottom of the pots.
Yeah, that'd probably work- but I don't know why you want floc in the pot bottoms if you are using pellets. The purpose of the floc in my application is to keep Fytocell crumbs from escaping the pots' drain holes and to reduce the buoyancy of pots filled with Fytocell. You have neither concern with pellets. I guess it might provide a barrier against gnats entering your rootballs via the drain holes.

i think you told me to squeeze 2 600s and the 1000 over the whole 4x8 area. which is probably still a good idea but the electrical i have under control right now without blowing breakers and shit
hm, OK. :) What you have going will keep you pretty busy. :)

The two 600's will have a better coverage area.. but it is really dependent on the room design.
Agreed, except cooltubes allow 1000s to be run a lot closer to plants, closing up the lumens/m^2 gap between uncooled 600s and 1000s. Someone along the line in this thread (I can't find it :lol:) calculated that a cooled 1000 can lay down some 80K lumens per m^2 or something wacked out like that at a 350mm spacing.

A pair of 600s will draw about 1310W, a 1000 will draw about 1105W. At 15c/kWh, the pair of 600s will cost $10.38/mo more to run than a single 1000. In a 4-tray system, where a 600 is used over each tray, the difference of course doubles to an added $20.76/mo.

2620W for 4x 600 vs 2210W for 2x 1000 makes a difference for 240V growers who may only have access to a 10A circuit. 2620W is JUST over 10A on 240V (2400W). 2210 is just under.

Up to you! I think 600s over each table would give great results, but the pair of 1000s over 4 has served me pretty well, too.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
The sulfur 'burner' looks like it is doing its job. I've got 2 batches in now that have never been sprayed with anything for powdery mildew and they look great. Deep, healthy green, not a hint of dust.

Tray 1 at 2 wks:



The sulfur 'burner' was put in before this batch went in the room. Has not been sprayed with anything to inhibit PM.

Tray 2 at 4 wks:



Same here. The sulfur 'burner' was put in before this batch went in the room. Has not been sprayed with anything to inhibit PM.

Tray 3 at 6 wks:



These plants were in the room before the sulfur 'burner' was installed. They did get a pretty bad dusting of PM before they were sprayed and the 'burner' installed.

What looks like PM on these plants is dead PM, after a spray with a lime sulfur @ 0.5ml/l mix. Sulfur 'burner' is stopping any recurrence.

Tray 4 at 8 wks:



These plants were also in the room before the sulfur 'burner' was installed. They did get a pretty bad dusting of PM before they were sprayed and the burner went in.

This batch was damaged by a pH error. The probe on my pH meter had worn out and I shot about .7 low in their weeks 1-2. This resulted in plants being stunted. They have recovered as best they can in the remaining 6 weeks and will produce short, stumpy colas which are coming up dense and heavy, but only half as much as there should be. Leaves were cooked by powdery mildew in concert with the pH problem. PM has not recurred in these plants since spraying and installation of the sulfur 'burner'.

I keep using alarm quotes around 'burner' because this device does not actually burn sulfur.



It warms powdered sulfur to about 110C, which melts it and causes it to give off vapor.



You don't want to be in the room when it's running! *phew*! Still less stinky than lime sulfur spray.

The best instructions I could find on the web (none included with the 'burner') suggested 15mins/day and reduce if tip burn occurs. I decided to double it from the get-go as I had an intransigent PM problem. I have been running the 'burner' on a timer, for 2x 15mins periods per day, about an hour after lights-off and about an hour before lights-on.

I have noticed the verrrrry beginnings of tip burn on the new plants and am seeing an effect on PM, so have cut it back to 2x 10mins cycles per day on the same sked. It takes about 5 mins for the sulfur to melt and begin to evaporate. Running during lights off makes it more likely the exhaust blower won't be running when the 'burner' is on, which would simply blow the vapor out the exhaust.
 

grandpabear3

New Member
When you remember that lumens don't 'add' (for CFLs, HPS or even a dozen flashlights), your answer becomes clear.

so then i'll get 1 1000w hps w/cooltube for the 16 sq ft area so i have my lumens covered. (unless i'm crazy wrong)

but the table set up is ok right...1 & 2 will be one 2x4 table with it's own res and tables 3 & 4 will be 2x2 each with it's own res

i believe i understand correctly that they'll fit my question is more towards the res's working properly the way i intend to set it up...i just see the chance to save $ and only use three tables without compromising the way the op runs like you said it should

thanks for all your effort and help you have made a huge difference in everything i do in my op and will be the cornerstone of my success!

wife and sis still available in florida :P
 
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