World Of Hempy

Moebius

Well-Known Member
I've also noticed the fringe vs. dead center effect. I've found raising the hood will correct. With height limits, lower wattage may be the answer, but would it decrease the trichs on the fringe foilage?
Thankfully, by using Mc'Guyver like ingenuity, I have managed to squeeze another few inches height. I'm hoping this will help, as well as choosing shorter pheno's.

The trichs on the outer stuff looks better than those being blasted with direct light. ... Of course, the key is to have an even spread of light, as much as this is possible. :-?
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
I should present this on another thread but thought I would pass it before my "Hempy Brothers" first. I have a Lumatek 400W digital ballast on a Digilux HPS bulb. There is a setting for "super lumens" where you can get ≈20% more output over the 400W setting...sames goes for the 250W setting..there's one for that too. In previous grows I cranked in the super lumens during the last half of the flower cycle ≈4weeks. Since my newest girls have just been put into the flower tent, I've had it set to the plain vanilla 400W to ease the transition from T5's in veg. I see an opportunity here to either help trigger flower start, increase bud size or even bud density. If you had the choice of kicking in an additional 20% light to your girls, what stage of the growth cycle would you turn it up? Remember too I can crank it down to 250W to simulate end of life (like some put plants in darkness before harvest). Your experience/opinions are much appreciated.
From what I gather from their website:

What is the Super Lumens setting?
A: The super lumens setting is not what produces the advertised 20% more lumens. Lumatek was advertising 20% more lumens a long time before the Dimmable knob. The super lumens setting puts out additional wattage to the bulb. So for a 1000W ballast running 1000W bulb, you would be giving the bulb say 1100W of power on super lumens. Lumatek says it is about 10%. We have not spoken with any of the major bulb manufacturers about how that affects the bulb's lifespan.

I would think that you could run this the entire grow, but you may wear the bulb out faster. I haven't found any proof of these claims, but I don't find it hurting the plants at all. Moebius may be on to something where dimming it down simulates fall. I would think the last week before chopping you may not want to lower the brightness, but perhaps shorten the daylight. Drop to 10 hrs and then 8 hrs. Food for thought I guess...
 

smoothness

Active Member
hey guys quick question about co2. i run a window ac unit into my room. is the co2 from the outside enough for the plants for veg or do i need a co2 tank? i know in flowering im going to have the whole co2 shabang to maximize yields, but what bout veg?
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
From what I gather from their website:

What is the Super Lumens setting?
A: The super lumens setting is not what produces the advertised 20% more lumens. Lumatek was advertising 20% more lumens a long time before the Dimmable knob. The super lumens setting puts out additional wattage to the bulb. So for a 1000W ballast running 1000W bulb, you would be giving the bulb say 1100W of power on super lumens. Lumatek says it is about 10%. We have not spoken with any of the major bulb manufacturers about how that affects the bulb's lifespan.

I would think that you could run this the entire grow, but you may wear the bulb out faster. I haven't found any proof of these claims, but I don't find it hurting the plants at all. Moebius may be on to something where dimming it down simulates fall. I would think the last week before chopping you may not want to lower the brightness, but perhaps shorten the daylight. Drop to 10 hrs and then 8 hrs. Food for thought I guess...
Thanks all, I was thinking entire grow this time too although I see a lot of difference in the bulb over two grows with it (dark areas along the element). Too, the ballast itself climbs to 130° which heats the general area outside the tent (I keep it on a wire rack because of this). As for simulating fall, when I see the decline in nutes strength on the Canna feeding chart for the last several weeks I think I'll drop the lumens in unison. Instead of triggering flowering with event's at the start, I'll put my efforts into the end with light reduction.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
hey guys quick question about co2. i run a window ac unit into my room. is the co2 from the outside enough for the plants for veg or do i need a co2 tank? i know in flowering im going to have the whole co2 shabang to maximize yields, but what bout veg?
If you continue to run temps high, using supplemental CO2 is beneficial. However, if the a/c is cooling you down to normal range, then don't go with CO2. For the people I've seen using it, they have an entire grow room controlled properly. Id say work on dialing in what you have so when you add CO2, you know if it's making a difference.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Thanks all, I was thinking entire grow this time too although I see a lot of difference in the bulb over two grows with it (dark areas along the element). Too, the ballast itself climbs to 130° which heats the general area outside the tent (I keep it on a wire rack because of this). As for simulating fall, when I see the decline in nutes strength on the Canna feeding chart for the last several weeks I think I'll drop the lumens in unison. Instead of triggering flowering with event's at the start, I'll put my efforts into the end with light reduction.
Thats interesting Jela about the bulb and ballast heat. I have a 5x20 ft grow area and when I feel the ballast, it's warm but you could keep your hand on it without frying your hand. While this winter has been a bit warmer, I usually need all the heat benefit I can get as the ambient grow room temp goes to 61F at night.

With regards to feeding less, at what point do you guys start dialing back the strength? Week 7? I guess it's really strain dependent, but I generally pick ones that will finish in 8-9 weeks. It would be worth trying out dialing back to see of it helps.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
hey guys quick question about co2. i run a window ac unit into my room. is the co2 from the outside enough for the plants for veg or do i need a co2 tank? i know in flowering im going to have the whole co2 shabang to maximize yields, but what bout veg?
A window AC unit only circulates air on the inside of the room it does not exchange any air from the outside. If you can bring in air from another rm in the building or directly from outside, then will not need co2. If you have a sealed rm then you will need to augment co2. I would recommend using ventilation if at all possible. With a window in the rm this could easily become either your intake or exhaust.
 

ineverveg

Active Member
Have i ordered the right nutes here, i use the hesi range atm, i have just been using up my normal hesi bloom in my reservoir which worked quite well considering, i have now bought hesi hydro bloom and pk13/14 but i am wondering now if i should have gone with hesi for coco as that is my hempy medium, also, i plan on doing some 2 gallon coco grows with each of my strains to see how they yield
would hesi coco give me better results even if my hempy res is around 30 ltr , or will the hydro nutes be better suited?
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Have i ordered the right nutes here, i use the hesi range atm, i have just been using up my normal hesi bloom in my reservoir which worked quite well considering, i have now bought hesi hydro bloom and pk13/14 but i am wondering now if i should have gone with hesi for coco as that is my hempy medium, also, i plan on doing some 2 gallon coco grows with each of my strains to see how they yield
would hesi coco give me better results even if my hempy res is around 30 ltr , or will the hydro nutes be better suited?
I would have gone for the Hesi Coco. Not used it before but since its formulated for coco I would have thought it would have been the one to go for.

Is the bloom formulated for soil? ... You'll have to try it and see, should be ok though.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Here's an update on my put young veg seed plants into 12/12 (mine are 11 1/2 on - 12 1/2 off) to sex then put the "girls" back into veg. After 9 days saw the first sign, I had to take some photos and blow them up to be sure, my eyes ain't what they used to be. I see the pair of hairs I've been waiting for.
sex12-12-03 007riu.jpg

Now during this 9 days of flower there was a little stretching. Note the distance between the nodes. Now it's time to top it and put it back in veg. Where would you top this girl??
sex12-12-03b 001riu.jpg

This was one of the hardest things I've ever had to do

Looks like Vlad the Impaler came through my grow rm. And he's coming back again tonight.
 

Attachments

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Wattsaver

I would top the red line at the highest, others may choose the blue line.

(obviously, I would use take clones from the higher branches first)

 

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
View attachment 2428772
half the mothers

okay im bout to buy the cloner in a few days. was wondering how much i should cut for cuttings. like should i just cut off the tops of each growing tip or what? they said your clones should be 3" and im using the ezclone 120 site too. so how long should i have each cutting?
Those mothers don't look very big Smooth... I like to have 3-4 internodes on my clone cuttings. 4-8" long. The side cuttings work best particularly; I actually avoid the largest top growth shoots because they don't clone as well with the apical dominant hormones present.
 

smoothness

Active Member
Those mothers don't look very big Smooth... I like to have 3-4 internodes on my clone cuttings. 4-8" long. The side cuttings work best particularly; I actually avoid the largest top growth shoots because they don't clone as well with the apical dominant hormones present.
Actually they have exploded haven't topped them much yet just supercropping. I have some mothers with 10-15 main colas I want to get cuttings soon so the smaller bud sites can grow to be branches themselves.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Wattsaver

I would top the red line at the highest, others may choose the blue line.

(obviously, I would use take clones from the higher branches first)
As you most likely noticed I picked the red line also, and it hurt really bad to throw that much growth out.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Actually they have exploded haven't topped them much yet just supercropping. I have some mothers with 10-15 main colas I want to get cuttings soon so the smaller bud sites can grow to be branches themselves.
Supercropping does not create more clone sites. You need to top the main stem to create more main stems. More Main stems create more side branches which are the best clone subjects. I need at LEAST 3 nodes to cut for a clone. I remove the bottom node branch & leaf from the clone stem, this scar is a prime root sprouting location. IF you want to keep a mother going for future clones, then leave a node on the branch you cut. That node in most cases will make 2 new clone-able branches.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
If you remember a couple of grows ago I was wining about the roots in my 2g coco buckets never leaving the coco and driving into the perlite like you guys do with the smaller 2L . Robust plants...nice yeild...just made me curious as hell when breaking down the plug at cleanup time. Just pulled the plugs out of the C99 grow and what do you know....roots all the way down. We had some good theories going on but statistically it's still confounded. This was an LED grow vs. HPS, somewhat cooler temps with leas stress in my desert climate and a different strain alltogether. Thank goodness they grow well either way...thanks to the hempy method. looking at the pictures now it almost seems like 1/2 the bucket was #3 perlite...it isn't, just the perspective of my crappy photography.
DSC02720.jpgDSC02715.jpg
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
This CH9 "Cluster" bud was grown in a 2g coco hempy bucket where the root's didn't drive into the perlite...now you see my reasoning?
snap00206.jpg
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Have you ever gauged the thickness of your stems using the hempy method vs. your soil experiences? This was at the very top of an Indy girl.....this is the largest most noticeable trait my plants undergo since moving to "passive hydro" over a year ago. My soil plants never had stems so thick.
snap00207.jpgsnap00208.jpg
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Nice buds jela10. Could be the strains just root differently. The C99 shows there is no incompatibility issue at the coco / perlite boundary.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Jela, those buds are just fucking TASTY! WOW! I can't believe the size of that monster! Making my eyes red just looking at it!
 
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