Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Uncle Ben said:
If you're not late in the game an organophosphate is your best bet like malathion. Use a spreader sticker (surfactant) with it. My favorite is a blast of water. Destroy the nest and knock the critters to the ground and you'll be mite free. They say Neem works but I would imagine you have to keep up with it and use often.
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Is it safe to spray malathion during flower? Im currently beginning of week 2 of flower and Ive been battling with mites for the last 4 weeks!! Ive tried organocide but it leaves an oily residue and that messes up my fan leaves. so i switched to Volcks oil spray which is a little lighter oil content and just recently my buddy gave me some mighty wash but it has like 99% water which makes no sense to me.. Ive also had used the Habeneros Chilli spray but i didnt make it concentrated enough cuz they came back fast!! im about to up the habeneros so the fumes can burn my eyes as i spray burn them bitchessss to death! It seems like whatever I do the damm mites come back so fast!! This week Ive been spraying Volcks everyday when the kids are sleeping and today when the kids were awake I saw mites! Can I bomb it with docktor doom fogger while the kids are in there or something? What do u suggest? When I spray im pretty liberal too and the kids are about 4 feet tall and my sprayer doesnt spray it shoots!!
 
oakgrowth1 said:
Umm, loss of respect for your opinion.
& patience is a cornerstone of growing.
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I disagree, up most respect
If your soil is full of goodies why tea? UB methods are one of the best! Its saves money, its most efficient, most easiest way, its already hard enough maintaining everything else but if you know what your doing and on top of everything there is no need for the other nonsense cuz the basics is your feeding what is needed, everything is there. so how can you feed a full baby? you cant! pure simple logic! keep em nice and healthy and know your nutrient ratios and your set for life!
 
curious old fart said:
ferti-lome Triple Action Plus ll has a neem derivitive and is very effective on mites and can be sprayed until the day of harvest

:peace:
cof
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That would probably be a great choice.

Malathion breaks down into a harmless phosphate from which it was derived in 3 - 5 days via the action of light, heat, air. In order to be successful regarding pest control, you must understand the pest's life cycle, when it is most vulnerable to sprays, etc. Timing is everything. Also, thoroughly research conventional pesticides. They are safe and effective when used as directed. Most folks won't take the time, but they'll listen to the blind leading the blind at cannabis or green wacko forums.

Watch the soaps and refined paraffin oil sprays. If applied late in flowering it would be like smoking tobacco laced with Castrol motor oil. :)
 
uncle.duke said:
I disagree, up most respect
If your soil is full of goodies why tea? UB methods are one of the best! Its saves money, its most efficient, most easiest way, its already hard enough maintaining everything else but if you know what your doing and on top of everything there is no need for the other nonsense cuz the basics is your feeding what is needed, everything is there. so how can you feed a full baby? you cant! pure simple logic! keep em nice and healthy and know your nutrient ratios and your set for life!
Click to expand...

Really. I've got better things to do than stand there dipping a bag of composted horse shit in a bucket of water and then hauling the rocket fuel out. You get the same results by mixing your compost/manure into your custom made soil blend and then just watering. Easy peasy.....

Too many folks are prone to make this easy and simple hobby as complicated and difficult as they can.......and quite ironically their gardens are usually the pits.

Uncle Ben
 
UB, how do you ph your water? Don't products like ph up and ph down contain salts, which, in turn kill microbial life in your soil? Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Cannabis is pH tolerant. You don't need to adjust the pH of your water if you grow in soil. Soil has such a buffering effect that you're wasting your time.
 
Uncle Ben said:
Kinda like using a dry soup mix. The goodies are already there, just add water.
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I would have to agree with you if you are using your own compost mix or growing outside. The microbes are already there in well composted soil. But what about for those using bagged soil where the consumer is unsure of the methods used, was the soil sterilized? Wouldn't a fresh inoculation of beneficial microbes act as a healthy jump start if used a couple times at the beginning of the grow?
 
HanginIron said:
I would have to agree with you if you are using your own compost mix or growing outside. The microbes are already there in well composted soil. But what about for those using bagged soil where the consumer is unsure of the methods used, was the soil sterilized? Wouldn't a fresh inoculation of beneficial microbes act as a healthy jump start if used a couple times at the beginning of the grow?
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Rainwater is full of nitrates and beneficial microbes.
 
Im starting to prep my kids and trying to focus more on my soil mixture packed with other goodies and just use Jr peters fert for npk. all purpose and bloom.

what do think about this.. Heres my check list...

medium content soiless mix sunshine 4 .
- Alfalfa meal
- kelp meal
- Azomite
- fulvic and humic blend
- Dolomite lime

-great white myco

Does it look okay? Also, I still have a bottle of revive AN (cal - mag) and a gallon of pro tekt from the previous stuff I have on the side in case of an emergency foilar spray or something..

does it look greeeennnnn
 
UB and the rest of the fellas..
Ive been using h&g nutes.. and i was curious since im switchin to jack classics on my new born kids coming up and Im out of my h&g base and about to run out of a few other things.. can I stop using h&g line and just buy jack and finish my kids?.. its almost week 3 of flower... and if so.. can i use carboload, pro tekt, and diamond nectar in my regime?
 
Looks like another experiment is in order for this Bendejo. The following link shows that low or zero P foods produce compact plants. High P foods produce tall plants. Here's some facts based on 4 experiments using different plant foods on various annuals.

http://www.gpnmag.com/what-really-causes-stretch

1.......The results of the first experiment can be summarized as follows: plant size increased with increasing phosphorus concentrations.

2.......Clearly, phosphorus supply is a stronger driving force behind the growth of young plants than has formerly been realized.

3.......With this series, as in the first experiment, plant size increased with increasing phosphate concentration.

4.......Plants that received the 15-0-15 fertilizer plus sufficient monobasic calcium phosphate to yield the equivalent to a 15-7.5-15 fertilizer were larger, indicating that in both self-mixed fertilizers and in commercial fertilizers the phosphorous component is necessary for full, luxuriant plant growth.
 
Once read that stretch can be controlled by temperature fluctuations been day/night, a higher differential between day/night would cause more stretch and a lower differential less. Do you Think there's any truth in this?

Uncle Ben said:
Looks like another experiment is in order for this Bendejo. The following link shows that low or zero P foods produce compact plants. High P foods produce tall plants. Here's some facts based on 4 experiments using different plant foods on various annuals.

http://www.gpnmag.com/what-really-causes-stretch

1.......The results of the first experiment can be summarized as follows: plant size increased with increasing phosphorus concentrations.

2.......Clearly, phosphorus supply is a stronger driving force behind the growth of young plants than has formerly been realized.

3.......With this series, as in the first experiment, plant size increased with increasing phosphate concentration.

4.......Plants that received the 15-0-15 fertilizer plus sufficient monobasic calcium phosphate to yield the equivalent to a 15-7.5-15 fertilizer were larger, indicating that in both self-mixed fertilizers and in commercial fertilizers the phosphorous component is necessary for full, luxuriant plant growth.
Click to expand...
 
hey uncle ben , its my first grow, im using ebb n flood buckets system, my plants have been in veg for 3 weeks now, im using ionic base nutes no additive, strain is cheese 10 week flower, just curious about keeping the leaves green for aslong as possible, nitrogen doe's this and its in my veg nutes, so im thinking from the switch run veg nutes for longer like 3 weeks instead of one, or use bloom/veg nutes one week after switch..

i am totally off track?, lol i spent so much time learning about my grow room, i never learnt much about nutes, so getting the clones ive had to rush threw info finding at least the right track.. my tap water ec is 0.7 and ph 7.5 .. because my ec is so high my nutrients have to be very low to compensate, any advice for this?, RO?.. thanks for any help
 
mantiszn said:
Once read that stretch can be controlled by temperature fluctuations been day/night, a higher differential between day/night would cause more stretch and a lower differential less. Do you Think there's any truth in this?
Click to expand...

Don't know. Got any real data?
 
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