Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Or try a different method of going up/down. Theres mention of vinegar??? I use sensi and i never ever ph. 14 days and ill hit 7 ph from 6. Hell ya.
Dwc buckets to flood table?
- Thread starter tallen
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Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Im out for the night. You might try posting on heisenburgs thread or pm the guy about the gh down. Hed know.
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
Or you could say fuck the teas and go with a sterile res for a grow and see if that helps. I run a sterile res and have not had issues with anything except a bit of calcium buildup on pumps and some surfaces but I clean everything at each new start with 29% h2o2 and add 50ml to res every week for maintenance. I do flood and drain so that may be a difference also. I'm a real noob so disregard anything I say if its BS....lol. I also have seen iron bacteria in water slime as soon as it hits air and it looks like vitamen e jelly, but that was on a well not city water.
tallen
Well-Known Member
Sterile doesn't stop that sh1t, I've tried. it's quite the plague of DWC.
Didn't know that about the ph up and down causing it, thanks for that info!! And Ninja, you earned that +rep just for how hard you tried to help me, even though we thoroughly derailed the original purpose of this thread, but it's all good. Thanks a lot for taking a fresh pair of eyes to my plight.-and sorry to dip out so sudden like last night-had a naked woman waiting for me to come to bed
And if anybody has any input on my original question of moving dwc buckets to a flood table I'd still like to hear it!!
Didn't know that about the ph up and down causing it, thanks for that info!! And Ninja, you earned that +rep just for how hard you tried to help me, even though we thoroughly derailed the original purpose of this thread, but it's all good. Thanks a lot for taking a fresh pair of eyes to my plight.-and sorry to dip out so sudden like last night-had a naked woman waiting for me to come to bed
And if anybody has any input on my original question of moving dwc buckets to a flood table I'd still like to hear it!!
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Im trying to kick a naked woman out of my bed, well get to the o.p. in a bit.Sterile doesn't stop that sh1t, I've tried. it's quite the plague of DWC.
Didn't know that about the ph up and down causing it, thanks for that info!! And Ninja, you earned that +rep just for how hard you tried to help me, even though we thoroughly derailed the original purpose of this thread, but it's all good. Thanks a lot for taking a fresh pair of eyes to my plight.-and sorry to dip out so sudden like last night-had a naked woman waiting for me to come to bed
And if anybody has any input on my original question of moving dwc buckets to a flood table I'd still like to hear it!!
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
So somthing like this but with the built in lid pots? What else would make it diff. What are you thinkin?
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
Kinda like this? 
I tried plywood but it was not the best thing as I was getting shit on the bottom of it and it was hard to clean so I switched to plastic lidded totes. maybe plexiglass would be better. if you can block the light. My lids were clear and I painted them with krylon plastic paint.
I tried plywood but it was not the best thing as I was getting shit on the bottom of it and it was hard to clean so I switched to plastic lidded totes. maybe plexiglass would be better. if you can block the light. My lids were clear and I painted them with krylon plastic paint.
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
If your at ten inches and havent flipped the lights id guess you are trying to grow trees or close. The problem im seeing with the plywood is that the net pot lids thingys are 12 inches diameter, if your doing three foot on center youd only be able to fit four plants on one sheet. You could stagger it and they would have three foot centers, it would work but youd only be able to have four per sheet.
The plywood could also sag in the middle if unsupprted with the extra weight of all the plants when it gets wet. A center brace may help.
plywood from the like thirty years ago had formaldihide in it and theres lots of other chemicals at a quick google glance. If your not touching the wood it should be minamal but just sayin.
The plants would love the faster wet dry cycles, no worries there. The main worry is that your still recirculating the res to all the plants in essence with the same root zone that has had the slime already. I dont see how ebb n flow will stop the problem.
And if your growing trees the root systems may start to mingle depending on how shallow the table is.
Im about to start rambleing aimlessly because ideas are flooding into my head so ill take a break lol
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
Well here's the thing I was wondering kinda the same thing with my setup. Right now I am running two different cycles in 2 trays. One tray is on for 15 min and off for 45min. The other tray is on for 30 and off for 3 hrs. The 2 main res's have air stones and floomers. Roots just hang in the air BTW. Now this is my first hydro grow so I have no clue what is best but there does not seem to be a difference. The plants that are the longest off cycle are doing great and are just 3 weeks old. I was wondering if I should just run continuos as well kinda like dwc with out the deep lol. I guess the drain cycle is supposed to bring air into root zone by sucking it in as water drains, ummm ok sounds logical lol. But I have seen some massive DWC grows as well. I think what ever you do will work. Whats best I have not a clue. I know its not good to let the roots dry though! And my roots are damp after 3hrs but they are the little ones....... with big roots though!! BTW if you put a really good anti fungal paint on that was non toxic that may be the ticket. I stained mine,not so good!! (had it and I'm cheap LOL).
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you answered most of your own questions. Lol DWC is better for trees, ebb n flow is better for sog.
tallen
Well-Known Member
Tallest one is at 10" and I think I'm going to turn her into a mother, others are more like 7-8". I usually fim them about now and let them bush out for a couple weeks before the flip but was thinking let them go a couple more nodes and top them instead of fim to see if grow a couple tops instead of bush out so much. Rather trim a couple fat tops than a bunch of smaller ones if the yield will be comparable. They've been finishing around 3' or so with fimming.
If I put them on a table I'd do one in each corner and one in the center, should be plenty of room unless they bush out again, then I could pull the center one or prune the sh1t outta them if the roots are too tangled. I'd have to use the same footprint for them if they're on the table or in the buckets anyway, only loosing 6 or 8 inches of headroom if I use the table-but I usually have at least that much to spare anyway.
Throwing a couple braces in to support the top wouldn't be a problem and I've got some paint lying around if I need it. I'd toss the plywood after this run and if I decide to use tops for the tables later on I'd do them right. I'm running the tea heavy and hopefully by the time I'm ready to flip it will be gone, and I read that it isn't a problem in systems other than DWC so I was thinking I wouldn't really have to worry about it coming back if I'm flowering in ebb and flow-please correct me if I'm wrong as this is the main reason I'm considering it instead of finishing them in the buckets and then putting up the table in that spot after there done! I can make all the logistics of the change work, I'm just concerned about how the plants will respond to the change. I'm not afraid to give em a little stress but at the same time I don't want to do anything they can't easily recover from in a few days going into flower.
tallen
Well-Known Member
Almost missed this, I think it could work but you may want to throw a few air stones in the tray with the plants if you do it, especially if the water is not recirculating pretty fast. If the roots aren't getting enough dissolved oxygen in the water (or plain air like in flood and drain) the plants will wilt and die pretty fast. Just keep a real close eye on them for the first day or two to see how they respond. If anythings amiss you could just turn off the pump to let the water drain out and put it back on the timer. I will say though that if your not running either a sterile res or adding beneficial bacteria that it's NOT a good idea. DWC is very simple and very cheap to do, but also very prone to root problems. I don't know if you'd get any benefit by doing it, but it is fun to experiment with different ways to grow. (that's why I decided to get flood tables, there's just so many different things I could do with them!!)
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Hmm, if thats what youve been told about ebb n flow, that it resists the slime better than a DWC then go with it man, if it aint going to cost you a fortune. Im also subbed to Hiesenburgs tea thread just in case it ever happens to me but it hasnt. Im as noob as they get, well not really. I havent finnished my first grow yet but im hoping for 10 oz from two plants. And i learn faster than most people. I just felt bad for ya since i always see you on the tea thread gettin fucked by slime and was fed up for ya. Figured there might have been a question that hadnt been asked. Not bad for a noob huh? Lol
one more thing. Since you run RO water, id assume that theres no chlorine in it still. Chlorine kills microbes, that could be a good thing for you, too bad the ph is so off and youd have to kill the GH down bottle on it. You might be able to add chlorine back to your water but holy shit that sounds dangerous. My plants are loving tap water. Good luck
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
Ive also never used a benny. Probably because of the chlorine and the lack of ever adjusting ph. I read that its not all that important like everyone claims. When someone doesnt know the answer they all say the same shit, " maybe its lockout caused by PH ". Fuck that, they just dont know shit cause they didnt ask the right questions. Book i was reading said 1.5 out is fine and i can see the point. My trees are fine, no added bs cept nutes sensi 2 part, calmag, and superthrive and its probably at 7 ph right now. Its not that i dont check it, its just that i dont fix it.
four weeks to go
four weeks to go
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
The pumps I use fill the tray in about a minute and they also have built in floomers so I think Im getting lots of air in the top res but I guess u can never have to much lol. As far as the plywood sagging, you may have an issue but I doubt it and if so just use a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe to support it if needed.
The girls still have the potential to get huge in the trays and these White russian were my first attempt at hydro. The top of the door is 5'-8" and they are another 12" past that, they went insane and grew into the light, had to bend them over near the end. But yes I have considered addind smaller pots and more of them for a sog grow. So basically what you guys are saying is there is more of a chance for slime in a DWC system? Maybe I'll stick to what I have lol. BTW I got 410 grams from that tray. Next grow was not so good lol just hanging it now so we'll see. I get a harvest every 5-6 weeks using 2-3 trays.
waterdawg
Well-Known Member
What was that crystally wonder ninja?? Nice!!!! I would not worry about the switch stressing the girls to much. Thier pretty hardy as I have found out, I probably did everything possible to try and kill my first grow lol. Also I have heard that PH should remain pretty constant and is more important than the actual number to a point. I have seen with my plants that if the number gets above 6ish they really dont seem to like it so I keep my PH around 5.8ish. but Im only on my third tray so what do I know? Nothing! lol. Also my water is from well (hard)so a bit fucky but managable. And yes you get alot of different opinions when putting a question out there lol. I had a real problem with PH at the start (and worried alot about range), christ I was adding up and down every other day lol. Now I use sulphuric acid and add 50 ml (diluted) to 100L and shes spot on. BTW I am not recommending it so no yelling lol. The other issue I have with trays is I have been growing from seed and once in the tray they stay there so if there is a smaller plant it gets hidden by the taller ones. I need to start clonning once I find the super plant lol.
Ninjabowler
Well-Known Member
The frosty one is train wreck, shes still got 4 weeks! I just let that ph ride. Hasnt passed 7 yet so hells ya. I dont know anything either from expirience but my research has helped lots of my moron friends with thier crops. I should get some before and after pictures. Going from embarrassing to excellent.
i try not to ever yell on theses threads. It just makes people look like their science makes no sence so they have to get mad to prove their point, that doesnt prove a point, that proves your an ass.
Your also 100% right on the cloning comment. Just imagine a canopy that was totally level, no runts, all plants producing almost exactly identical yields....oh ya, thats doin it right. Ive got a mother growing right now in dirt, shes basiaclly nothing more than a house plant. Do it, thats what beans are for IMO. Finding the best mother for your children.
you still around tallen? Have you found out anything on that ph down? Hows the mid grow switch comin along you wild man?!