Leaves starting to yellow with small rusty spots during veg

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
Ok, So one of my plants is having some yellowing on the lower leaves with a few tiny rust spots starting to form. Not sure what it is. Figure maybe a N deficiency but I thought I would ask y'all your opinions. The plant in question is a Tangerine Dream seed from Barney's Seeds. She is in a 4" pot filled with FFOF that I added a little extra Perlite and worm castings. I've been watering with water PH'd at 6.0 with no fertilizers yet. She stands about 8" tall and has been vegging for about 2 and a half weeks. I have three other strains that are growing next to her and none of them are showing these symptoms. The Tangerine Dream has more Sativa in her vs the other three strains. IDK if that has anything to do with it, but I won't rule that out either.

What are your thoughts?

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ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
I doubt pot size has anything to do with this problem I'm having. I only veg for five weeks or so in this pot before transferring into a 3 gallon Smart Pot for the flowering cycle.
 

topfuel29

Well-Known Member
Are you soil or hydro man?
if your in soil 6.0 ph is to low 6.8 ph is best for nutrient absorbing.
hydro 5.5 Ph
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
Thanks to anurism1 and topfuel29 for your input.

Just to clear things up a little better, I have been watering with PH'd 6.0 water. When I check my soil PH with a meter it comes in around 6.6 to 6.8 and from what I've read and experienced that is a pretty descent PH range.

Another thought that has crossed my mind is that maybe my tap water is too soft. It has a very low PPM. Usually around 50 PPM. Maybe there isn't enough Calcium in the water, causing a lack of available Calcium??? If it were just yellowing I would think it is being caused by a lack of Nitrogen, but the little rust spots are kinda throwing me for a loop.

I'm thinking this is just a finicky strain. Maybe she likes her PH a little lower?
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
I do have some liquid CalMg. I guess I can give them a dose of that and see if the problem persists. Its not gonna hurt. If that is the problem then I will add some lime to my mix moving forward.

The only concern is that I've never really had to add lime to my soil in the past. Once again, could just be the strain.

Any other possibilities?
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
UPDATE:
The pics that I have attached are from this morning. Since my last post I have watered twice with PH'ed water with some liquid CalMg and some liquid veg fertilizer (The Guano Company's Super Tea Mix) at half strength. The original problem is still getting worse and has now pretty much taken over the entire plant.

The first four photo's are of the Tangerine Dream that is in question. The last two are of a Critical + strain that I am also doing. The Critical + is yellowing on the bottom set of leaves. I think this is pretty normal as these are the first set of leaves and I am about to transplant and flip the switch to 12 & 12. Wanted to included these last two pics because A) Critical + is one of Tangerine Dream's parents, and B) I wanted to show how much healthier she is vs her pain in the ass cousin.

This is the second round of having issues with the Tangerine Dream. I can't seem to figure out what's wrong with her.

Any suggestions and/or help is greatly appreciated.



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duckee1

Member
if its peat based your ph is good between 6.5-6.8 and its due to the dolomite acting as a buffer-- lime will always do its job if its present no matter the starting waters PH. In your case since its a "soil" grow dont test runoff, test the soil and only test in the root zone about 2-3" from the bottom. This is where the most accurate reading will come from given the fact there is a everythings happening.
if its coco based your ph is way too high and it robs the cal/mg use an additive ph-5.5-6.2
if thats not it- your strain prefers and uses more cal/mag or your N is too high throwing off the availability of the cal/mag
FFOF is said to be hot so mix it with something else like light warroir to cool it down so you can add nutrients when the plant needs them without fear of burn or PH spikes
keep your run off to a max of 10% if you go the all organic way. just flush real good before flowering and feed some kelp extract to reduce the transplant shock. Transplant into bloom fortified mix and top dress as needed
 

duckee1

Member
honestly looks like cal deficiencie. The yellowed leaves are shot. Cut them off, this will also encourage new growth. If it is your PH thats wrong you have to fix that first before the plant will respond to any available nutrients. If you try to fix it with adding more nutrients you will kill it. Fix the PH first then add nutrients last and only at a 1/4-1/2 strength.
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
Thanks duckee.
I just checked the Ph with a soil meter and it read 6.8. My soil is peat based. All I've added to the soil was a little extra worm castings and extra perlite. The perlite is made by Miracle Grow, so maybe it has some of its "chemicals" added to the perlite, but IDK for sure. You mentioned excess N in my mix. I know worm castings have some N in it but I dont think its so much to cause this. I agree with you in thinking that it may be a Calcium deficiency. Hence why I added the CalMg. After two feedings, the problem still persists and shows no sign of getting better though. I sure want to figure this out though so I don't continue to waste money ($8 per seed), time and energy with this strain and trying to figure this issue out.
 

duckee1

Member
Calcium (Ca) -Macro Nutrient and an Immobile element.

Calcium is another important element that helps the plants cell walls, cell division in making the plants stems, stalks, branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth, mostly the newer root hairs, Calcium also helps enhancing the uptake of K in the the plants roots. Calcium moves really slow within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth.

When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as older leaves. The Leaf tips will die back, the tips may curl, and growth of the plant is stunted. The plant can show a weakness in the stems and branches, as well as a under developed root system that can lead to bacteria problems with roots dieing off. Having slow plant transpiration rates can aggravate the uptake of calcium. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, Which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. The leaf tips, edges and new growth will or may turn a yellow/brown colour that happen in spots and often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge and then the leaf tips die back. If too much calcium is given at an early stage of growth it can stunt the growth of your plants. Having to much of calcium will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency are the roots. Stem or petiole, young or old leaves.

Too much Calcium will lead to other micronutrient deficiencies. Calcium fixation is caused by many types of mediums such as: clay soils, unbuffered coco and humus. The lime tends to bond to these soils very easily. The stems of the plant will not be able to hold the plant up and will exhibit a white brown in between the veins of the leaves when having too much calcium. Also having to much potassium and or nitrogen will cause a calcium lockout.

Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles

Very acidic soils with excessive potassium, dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil may cause too acidic soil. This may cause to Mg or Iron deficiency or very slow stunted growth

Soil

Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Calcium deficiency
To fix a calcium deficiency you can treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomite lime or Garden lime per quart of water, Or Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Calcium in them will fix a Calcium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Or you can take crushed up dolomite lime or garden lime in a gallon of water and water it in the soil. 1 to 2 teaspoons per gallon of water, which will be slow acting. Garden Gypsum, which is medium absorption. Limestone, which is medium absorption, Rock Phosphate and Animal wastes which are both medium/slow absorption. Note: Caution when using gypsum to an already acid soil (pH that is less than 5.5) can have a very bad effect on different types of plants by effecting the absorption of soil aluminum, which is poison to plant roots.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Bro we have all been there its no biggie. I would flush with some epsom salts and then lightly spray the underside of the leaves with dolomite lime. 1/2tsp per L of purified water. repeat untill symptoms have resided. As far as the N in the castings there is so little its nothing to be alarmed about. I think castings are more less important for there mineral content. High quality casting depends the high quality mineral rich food the castings were made from. Not all castings are equal. Good luck and I will be watching.:weed:
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
I think you were correct in your first post. Looks like its getting hungry for some more N.
Which photo's are you looking at to draw your opinion? At first I thought it was a N deficiency. I have since added some veg nutes at half strength. The NPK is .05-.10-.02 (5-10-2?). Figured I would see some kind of progress after a week but I have not. It seems to be getting worse by the day. Maybe she is just a Nitrogen whore and is craving more. The other three strains are doing ok. Just the bottom (first set after sprouting) leaves are turning yellow. Take a look at pics 5 & 6 of post #12 for an idea. Also, that plant (Critical +) has the worse case of the remaining three strains. The other two are White Widow and Blue Hash.
 

ObiJwon

Well-Known Member
As y'all can tell, I'm at a loss here. I have tried remedy's for both a N deficiency and a Calcium deficiency to no avail. I don't want to give up but I'm about to transplant soon and, unfortunately, I'm thinking about cutting her down.

PLEASE HELP... She's on death row
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
Second set of pics. Older growth yellowing from leaf tip back to petiole. Veins yellowing also. What is affected will not get better. Monitor new growth and see if it stops spreading. Also feed with Fish Emulsion or the like. What your feeding the now is way to high in P. They need N IMO.
 
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