haoleflip
Active Member
LOL luckily I only bought one bag.
New to rollitup.org - New CFL Grower - Think I may have issues already. Help!
- Thread starter haoleflip
- Start date
RIKNSTEIN
Well-Known Member
It is a little harsh, lol, and don't worry about the MG soil, just water a lil at a time (I mean as little as possible) till they're a couple of weeks old and then hit it with reg water schedule (I go by weight of pot) and don't add nutes, my 2 nice ones are 28 and 30 days from sprout and doing just fine...but they still don't need nutes, lol...Thanks for the help!
Here if your worried take a look at my babies that are sitting in MG soil and MG perlite since sprout...
View attachment 2547164View attachment 2547165 Lady #1- 30 days from sprout...
View attachment 2547166View attachment 2547167View attachment 2547170 Lady #2- 28 days from sprout...
And get them lights closer and good luck man...
BBbubblegum
Well-Known Member
I'm WAYYYYY too high to read that post. All i know is that from your pics you are using some sort of miracle grow and your seedlings are suffering because of it.
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
Haoleflip...your catching some flack arn't you?? Listen...everyone here that has grown, is growing...also had a first time....so dont sweat it..K If you burn these ones...I'm sure you can score more seed....This method has ALWAYS worked perfect for me. I take a regular size beer cup...using happy frog as the medium I plant those seeds about 1/4 inch deep. The water you are using at this phase is fine...whats important is that when those babies pop....they are gonna be happy in that medium.....just keep the medium from ever getting dry..a spray bottle wks good....you dont need to have those lights so close that you nuke them...4 inches away is good.....as the seedling starts to grow adjust your light accordingly...in 14 days...your babies are ready for transplant into a larger container.. 1/2 gal will wk....14 days later again.....you want to fill the container root space gradually as you increase container size....mj needs that. Once you establish the root system....your on your way.....and if something goes wrong...try again....every grower has had shit go wrong...and I have been at it for YEARS!!!! so JUST DO IT! and dont give up......You can think about a better system down the road when you become fimiliar with the plant and its needs.
BBbubblegum
Well-Known Member
Not 100$ true.. the main key is the genetics..
Figong
Well-Known Member
It appears that they were.. and got emergency transplant to get you up to speed.. OP will probably update us in a few days as to plant conditions
haoleflip
Active Member
Thanks for the input everyone! I do have a question about the lights. I am using four 26w, 4100k, 1700 lumens bulbs and I can hold one in my hand, but it is a bit hot unless I hold it in certain spots lol. I also hold my hand 1-2 inches away and it is a bit warm. Are you sure I should have my bulbs 1-2" away instead of 4-5 inches like I have now?
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
I'm telling you 4 to 5 inches is good....plenty good.....monitor your room temp....when using regular seed you can increase your chances for females at slightly cooler temps after they pop.....less light has also proven to increase females...like 18/6 or better yet 16/7.......slightly higher nitrogen levels in seedling stage also increase females...BUT...I would just stay away from that one as not to risk burning...at that stage the plant and root system is very touchy....can burn easily.
Figong
Well-Known Member
18/6 is pretty much the standard for veg to start.. 16/7 = 23 hours.. what do you do with the other?
That said, do not spike seedlings w/nitrogen unless you're well aware of the consequences, and have money to throw away and/or do not give a shit whether the plant bombs in the first week. Would you happen to have a legitimate link that can show that lower temps = higher probability of female? (by legitimate, I mean a link to documentation that was posted by Greg, Ed, Jorge, or a few of the other well-known growers this world has seen.. not a link to some guy with 2000 posts in another forum, or even this one.. for that matter)Bear Country
Well-Known Member
16/7...lol..I lost the other hour after I smoked the white fire...lol...my bad...I dont have a link but I have each one of thier books ...its in there,,,its also in gregs new book the Cannabis Breeders Bible.....check it out...It seems to me that it does wk as I have had higher female ratios last couple of rounds .
And you are right about ferts at that stage....better to just avoid that period....
And you are right about ferts at that stage....better to just avoid that period....
Figong
Well-Known Member
I happen to have that book right in front of me at the moment, haven't gotten through all of it but skimmed and looks pretty solid. That works, thank ya for the quick reply
roseypeach
Well-Known Member
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
Its a great book...Its in there I have mine on my lap... was looking for it to give you rhe chapter...but its in there. I also saw it in Gregs MJ grow bible as well as in Jorge Mj horticulture...and If I am not mistaken....also in Eds indoor grow book.....but ya..it works.It takes a little longer to veg but the one thing I do notice is that the plants show sex earlier...by that I mean while the plant is smaller....which is also a benefit because it saves one the trouble of transplanting into larger containers just because your waiting for them to sex and dont want them getting root bound. So you save in labor, soil....etc
roseypeach
Well-Known Member
looks like you have a half decent grow tent going there, I'm a noob still (in my mind at least) so take my advice or not, the advice I give is mostly what has been given to me here. Keep that MG down to a bare minimum and transplant into a lighter non treated organic soil mix like Fox Farms Ocean forest potting soil. No need for nutes, its got all kinds of great material in it, bat guano, worm castings, etc just transplant (after you have a good root ball) and bury that root ball up to the little bitty leaves (the ones that don't have the serrated edges) and spray lightly and mist the leaves a bit (plain ph'd water). If they've been under lights 24/7 I would consider leaving them as such for at least a day or so till you are out of the woods on transplant shock. Me myself, I sprinkled some highly diluted Fox farms Big bloom on mine after transplanting to help avoid shock at the advice of another member at RIU. BTW, this is year 3 for me, still learning, check out my set up if you like, not as sophisticated as many here but hey, it works for me. I am just waiting on a desk fan and mylar to finish it off. Good luck on your grow and keep on toking!
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
ROSY.....thats a perfect example of a healthy seedling fixing to go into veg stage...good wk bub...Thanks for showing that!
Figong
Well-Known Member
Well-worded, and put together in a concise fashion. Bonus points for logical statements that fit a general concensus on many topics, you'll do just fine here on RIU and keep workin' on your setup as you can!
Bakatare666
Well-Known Member
WOW, how long did it take you to type all that and change colors so many times? LOLHello! I am a new grower from Colorado and I am definitely trying the cheapest route possible when it comes to materials, etc. I'm not wealthy and I'm not looking for a huge yield. I am going to go the CFL route as I've heard and seen people do it before with great results. I am mostly interested in the journey and I want to log my experiences to hopefully help others out in the future. I have tarped off a corner of my room that I will soon line the inside with white reflective panda liner and take down the foil lining as some have told me not to use that as it causes hot spots. I have provided pictures below. I currently have a cheap humidifier going and it keeps the tent at a nice temperature between 76-80 degrees Fahrenheit with 60-70% humidity. I come here for advice because I think I am having issues. The two leaves on each of the sprouts are starting to turn yellow and/or brown on the tips like they were burned or are dying or something. I have no idea what this means. More info about my grow below: (used a template from another site, sorry)
What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...) I am brand spankin' new.
My Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) I currently have four CFL 26w 1700 Lumens 4100k "Cool White" lights.
.2) Distance from tops? About 5-6 inches away.
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...) Two are bare bulb and the two on the sides are closed reflectors.
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Yes.
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? No.
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? Bulb wattage is 26w, kelvin is 4100k, and schedule is 24/7.
My medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...) I am using Miracle Gro Organic Choice Potting Mix with 20-30% perlite. Amazon.com: Miracle-Gro 72986510 Organic Choice Potting Mix Bag, 16-Quart: Patio, Lawn & Garden
.8 ) Size of container? Red Solo Cups.
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? No additives or nutes yet.
My nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting? Tap water and pH is reading 6.0-6.5
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) pH Analog Mini tester http://cdn.territorialseed.com/image...4238_large.jpg
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...) Have not done anything to water yet.
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. I have Big Bloom, Grow Big and Tiger Bloom ready, but not using yet.
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? Watered once before dropping seeds.
15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...) None.
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? Stable as far as I know.
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? 6.0-6.5
1Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? N/A
My growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors? Indoors.
20) What size of closet, room or hut? 4x4x8 grow tent.
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? Lights on is 75-80 Fahrenheit. Not sure with lights off.
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? No.
My strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) White Widow Indica Dominant.
24) From seeds or clones? Bagseed.
25) Is this an autoflower strain? Not sure exactly.
There ya go! Please don't be harsh!
View attachment 2545650 View attachment 2545651 View attachment 2545655 View attachment 2545652 View attachment 2545654
Get a circ. fan, more CFL's if that is what you're vegging with, maybe a 5000k and a 2700k.
I mixed 5000k and 2700k for my veg, and liked how it did.
Blue Solo cups work better.
**Nice details and info!**
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
Hey Figong, I found it...its in the Cannabis Breeders Bible, Chapter 15 Gender & sex inhertited traits...pages 134 and 135. Check it out!
Figong
Well-Known Member
Just read it, #1... 4 and 5 are interesting as well.. I may try to do fem stress tests under 100% red and see if I flip/flop 18 hrs blue/6hrs red-> 18 hrs red/6 hrs blue -> repeat can force a solid strain to herm on demand.
Bear Country
Well-Known Member
That would be an excellent test to try...I would like to hear your findings!! There is some great material in there from Vic High on methods to finding a TRUE XX female...it requires growing out a good amount of seed but once you find her...skys the limit for a breeder or breeding program plus clones....its a great read..I want to create a new space in my grow area to try to find a true XX Female.