Dwc Grow Club

sudodaemon

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
legallyflying said:
Looking good but at the risk of sounding like a dick, almost TOO full. You should really really consider chopping some leaves off. When you get buds so tightly packed like that (besides the risk of boytritus) they never really mature up like the rest of the buds. The parts that get light will stay green and mature and get super frosty, but where the buds touch, they tend to stay yellow and don't ever get that grade A look.

Not trying to diss, just trying to help. There is a point of diminishing return when it comes to packing the scrog. Looks awesome though.
Click to expand...
This is my first scrog, only my second grow, so you're not being a dick, you're being helpful. The leaves that are getting no light and thus yellow I cut off as I see, same with the buds not getting enough light... I'm using a 600 watt hps light so light penetration is pretty good and thus a lot of the buds are rich green. I've been contemplating cutting some additional ones off, especially on the left side because it is extremely packed and I don't want to risk mold... I get in there everyday and move leaves around and move buds around... gets really sticky and my hands are fucked for about an hour afterwards. I've thought about putting a couple small fans UNDER the plant blowing up to help with air movement... there is a lot in there now but more air movement cant be bad.

I'm always open to criticism and suggestions.
 
remyaz0

remyaz0

Well-Known Member
IMG_0008.jpg

6 DWC Buckets, CC Original Sour Diesel which i think is really bruce banner x sour diesel, 8 weeks into 12/12, running 600w lighting, GH flora series lucas formula with calmag and koolbloom. Have kept them light on nutes the entire time never got over 900. And thats a swamp cooler I use to keep humidity up you see in the veg pic.

Have had no real issues besides containing them in a 4x4x7 tent light is now zip tied to top of tent and i have been LSTing the tops, threw a netting over them to keep them together more than scrog. Planning on 3-4 more weeks but could finish earlier they are done when they are done. I will come back with more pics as they finish up.

Because they are so tall there is no easy way to get a downward shot of the canopy but they are all doing quite well. Was gifted these seeds and is very little good info out there on how they grow out.
 

Attachments

Darkjasper

Darkjasper

Member
^^^ Those are some nice plants you have there, I had some issues with my scrog height as well. Really did not expect so much growth after the light switch.


I currently am doing a one plant dwc grow. Been fairly good to me so far, only issue is finding the right pump for the setup so the water flows consistently between buckets.

Few weeks from harvest, Could not imagine another hydro setup giving me better results.

First time grower, first crop.
 

Attachments

O

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Looking great up in here.. yea its quite supriseing just how big these girls blow up when u take the restriction off the roots and put them in water my coco plants dont even look like my dwc girls whole different ball game..
U got a hella nice grow for ur first some nice fat nuggs on those kolas gonna be a nice harvest.
 
O

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Nice grow Hannibal i didnt watch it all obviously just kinda skimmed thru got shyt on lock down its cool some of u guys make videos to help peeps out i dont have nearly enuff space or time to do anything like that well done digging the trellis too well done. Peace
 
Don Gin and Ton

Don Gin and Ton

Well-Known Member
so peeps, i'm going to transplant into the big dwc from the small,

I'm a decent grower oil n coco wise but i know little about DWC. ( i'm reading as much as i ca though). i'm just wondering what i need to do to get it in the big dwc. should the roots go out through the bottom of the net pot or just half way in and let the water line be above them.

I'm using general hydroponics nute line. just the basic 3 part. the back of the bottles has a feed schedule on but it has no measurements lol. 2,5 for the micro and the same for the veg and bloom. silly question time here but surely i should just be using the micro and maybe the veg rather than the bloom!?


Once the nutes are in, I'll wait for the water temp to rise a little then ph it right? i'm in a fairly hard water area but not OTT hard.

idea is after it's in the bucket, i'm going to give it it's own 150w cfl to veg in a box over the bucket to train it out how i want it then flip in a week or 3 lol.

any input advise please, feel fire away. i've just gotten to the good part and I don't want to screw it up.

cheers!
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Ph immediately after mixing the nutes, no need to wait. You can pick up some dyna grow silica and actually use that in place of ph up in most instances. It's really basic and provides silica which hydro is lacking.

Other suggestions..don't use organic nutes (obviously)
Dilute your ph up and down chemicals at least by 50% (those pretty white clouds are your actual nutrients falling out of suspension)
You can start with water at the bottom of the cup and then lower is later
I have gotten better results using a bloom formula and low ph 5.5 during the early rooting phase. They don't need much N right now, they need K
Keep your shit clean
Keep the water below 70 if you can
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
If I had to pick the most prominent noob mistake in DWC I would say over feeding.

It is very strain dependant but right now my usual ppm's are:

From clone: 300-300
Early veg 4-500
Late veg 800
Beginning flower (I run veg nutes and MH the first week after flip) 800-900
Early flower 1,000
Heaviest feed weeks 4-6. Maybe 1400
Then rapidly trail of in the next 2-3 weeks. Like 900-600-300
Flushing is one or two days with tap water
 
Don Gin and Ton

Don Gin and Ton

Well-Known Member
hahah figures. at least i wont be asking why it's yellowing from the bottom up :lol:

thanks, i guess knowing when to cut the feed will come with practice and knowing the strain. i've built a DWC and I've just ordered an aquafarm to mod with an airstone/ pump and extra holes. i'm really hoping i can cut my numbers by half and not only equal but better my crop from coco.

I've been reading and the growth in both dwc and aquafarms looks fast. does that equate to the strain finishing faster overall or just looking fatter and fuller quicker? with that in mind my last Q? how long a veg should i look at, a normal 3-4 weeks? LST it round the top of the bucket and flip.

EDIT: so i'm putting my shopping list together, i already have ph down:

oxyplus
rhizotonic ( more for the coco plants tbh)
PH up
Liquid Silica

anything else i should be looking for? do you guys use Pk13/14 3-4 weeks from the end for a boost or is it unnecessary?


thanks in advance. :)
 
O

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Hi don ive tried useing all the boosters all its done for me is burn my fan leaves off tbh u dont need it the gh 3pt is actually really decent and totally sufficient to grow a plant from start to finish.. Im running the AN 3pt which is basicly GH formula..
I run my plants on micro and veg till they stop stretch in flower go easy on the micro its strong stuff..
I use my Veg 2 parts to 1 part Micro
Flower 2 parts Bloom 1 part Micro u should be perfectly fine useing that ratio.
I use Calmag along with it 2-3 ml/gallon both veg and bloom u should be good to grow..

I keep my water about an inch below the bottom of the pot because i have about 10 watts of air being pumped into each bucket lol my hydroton stay plenty damp almost sounds like there blasting off for orbit haha..
I topp of once daily if need be and make ph corrections if needed..
Yes ph does change with the temp so ur correct its better to make ur corrections once its acclimated to the environment.
Dont try and cheat and ph ur water before topoff the acid just buildd up in the bucket as the plants eat gradualy u will run into issues.
That about it..
LF gave u a good basic feed chart but i find every strain is dependant on what they need individualy and most sativa dom strains will most likely want to eat a little lighter than 1400 as most indicas ive ran do better closer to 16-1700..
1400 ppm
5.8 ph are great sweet spots to shoot for tho..
Peace


Also the amount of veg time u give them is going to depend on how much space ur room allows for obviously id recommend veg for as long as u possibly can more roots equals more weed lol keeping that in mind def plan on applying serious lst and training with most strains u would be suprised just how big some strains get in water its entirely different from root bound coco and soil plants explode when u free up the roots my coco plants dont even look like my dwc plants total dif ballgame bro..
Peace
 
Don Gin and Ton

Don Gin and Ton

Well-Known Member
again quality advice! thanks DL i'm hopefully going to no screw my first go up with all the tips n pointers you guys are giving.


so cal mag is a definite requirement. cool I'll add it to the nute order. ;)
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Great tip on the calmag. No matter how good the base nutes, they always seem to want a little more mag. Yellow splotches on the top leaves is a dead giveaway. Ph does change with temp but your actually talking something on the order of .2 over the temps you will be working with.
I'm a big fan of letting the ph float. I start at 5.5 and let it float to about 6.3. If your PH is dropping, you should start biting your finger nails as they is usually, but not always, let's say 85% of the time, a result of non-beneficial bacterial process in your root zone.

Hydro isn't hard as long as your careful. Keep detailed notes on ppm, water volume and PH. After several good grows you will see the general trend in the swings of those things which is important to manage things "on the fly". If your nutrient strength is on the low side of things and problems start to appear, you can always add a little more.

When you start running really hot nutes your was can start to spin as to why things are not working. Examples: is it too cold for calcium uptake, am I locked out, should I flush, should I add something to flush with? Are the magnesium levels to high and locking out other nutrients? Etc Etc etc

The only booster I use is phosphoload in week 2 or 3 (.5 ml/gallon with about 500ppm of base nutes). Let it run 24 hours then drain completely and mix fresh nutes. It is a powerful PGR that was recently outlawed because low and behold..if you feed tons of that stuff to mice they get cancer. I read the report and the amount they have the mice was off the charts.

Crazy bloom or mad blooms or shit, I can't remember the name of it. Little white jar with a crazy looking dude and some shit exploding on the front of it also works well in weeks 6-7. It works like that really expensive shit from house an garden. It appears to make the flowers start the flowering process all over. It can work really well but it can also create fox tails if you use to much of it. I stopped using it.
 
O

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
Yes after awhile i also came to the same conclusion that the typical ph swings that come with topping off or newly established reservoirs is beneficial to my plants as according to the charts certain elements are available at different ph levels so i believe u kinda get the best of all worlds as the res naturally swings..
Like said after ur res is established first week maybe 2 u wont see the swings till u begin topping off or res change..
My rule is simple for me and it works hand in hand as i will ph a brand new res set it and forget it till the next day acclimation is over and depending on what nutes you use, ill check the next day and make corrections so on and so forth until it settles at the sweet spot usually by then im topping off a bit and it swings up but usually settles back out at the sweet spot once established as the acid levels are already there accordingly to the amount of water u have in ur res nutes will play a part in it all some nutes raise ph and alot lower ph and some are already set to chelate as specific ph range once applied to the res..

Ive found that no matter what i do most sativa dom strains like to sit in a little less acidic water say 6.3 typically with less nutes as discussed already.
As most indica dom strains will settle in around 5.5-5.8 naturally and a higher ppm..

Also most nutes have sufficient amount of calmag in them if ur growing a plant say one plant per res but i have found once u rig up a rdwc and u have multiple plants especially huge plants shareing the same res then res they will require a sufficient amount of supplemental calmag they really do good on higher levels of macros and micros idk why im just shareing what im seeing to be true.

Ill also add that most extremely frosty and oily strains also do well with a little extra calmag never hurts and most of the time has them shineing literally.

Peace great convo all
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top