Some leaves are going yellow?

[Impman]

I hate "Grow Shops" and I hate people telling new growers about PH. So sad. I have a conspiracy theory that some asshole grower started this rumor about PHing your plants and letting your leaves turn yellow right before harvest, all so that grower could have the best weed around. THE LEAVES SHOULD NEVER TURN YELLOW. NEVVVVVVERRRRR.

 

[Impman]

OP...don't do this ^^^^.
If funds are tight, get some miracle grow 20-20-20
or MG bloom ferts if real tight.
Dont freaking flush first.

LISTEN TO Cockroach!!!!!! He is a genius. Do not flush your plants!!! That is a myth too! OMG, clearex probably kills important bacteria and nutrients in your soil man! This IS such a fucked deal for new growers. All this evil misinformation about growing a damn weed!

 

[BBbubblegum]

My first thought was N deficiency so I'll go with that. some Cal-Mag wouldn't hurt either.

 

[Jeffdogg]

Jeffdogg Considering he has only feed twice... and is being advised to feed again.....How is it that he is packing on a bunch on nutes....Explain? And everything i have advised HAS been to do more research. Dont come here to cause a scene. Come on man. Really.. And i highly highly doubt its PH. He is in SOIL. Soil has a great buffering ability unless he completely messed it up. Dont hate.

Edit Man i thought that was meant to me. I see what your reading my bad. Keep on going. My mistake

If the PH of his soil is off the plant wont uptake nutrients properly therefore looking like a nute def. NO SOIL DOES NOT HAVE A GREAT BUFFERING ABILITY unless it amended correctly, which his does not even have perlite if you try to pay closer attention so he obviously does not have quality soil. So if the PH in the soil is off it can cause nute lock

[h=1]Plant Problems Explained[/h] [h=3]Nutrient Deficiencies - Nutrient deficiencies in modern gardens are really rare. What most people see as a ‘Nutrient Deficiency’ is, 9 times out of 10, a pH problem. A pH that is too high or too low ‘locks out’ your plants ability to uptake nutrients. Since the plant can not uptake those nutrients they appear to be deficient. When in fact, there are plenty of nutrients in the solution/soil but, due to pH Lock-out, they are unavailable to the plant. Adding supplements or more nutrients (which is what most do) will only compound this problem by throwing the pH off even more and further raising the nutrient PPM. The best thing to do if you suspect ANY form of nutrient deficiency is to check and adjust the pH as necessary. The proper pH ranges for both hydroponics & soil is shown in the chart below. Pay particular attention to the ranges that certain nutrients are available and when they are locked out. Over Watering - Signs of over watering include: Leaf wilting/drooping and Chlorosis (Leaf Yellowing). Also, smelly soggy soil is another indication in soil gardens.
Solution - Increase the temperature and airflow to evaporate some of the excess water. Also, you can add some h2o2 when watering to help the roots still receive O2. And just don’t water as much. You should only water when your soil/medium is dry. If you have smelly soggy soil the best thing to do is transplant it into fresh dry soil.
Over Fertilizing - Signs of over fertilization include: dead/burnt leaf tips/margins and leaves curling under.
Solution - Check and adjust the pH level as necessary. Flush and decrease the fertilizer/nutrient level.
pH Problems - pH problems can manifest it self in many different ways. Anywhere from: nutrient deficiencies to over fertilization and leaf burn. The key to telling which you have is, knowing your pH.
Solution - Check and adjust the pH level as necessary.

[/h]

Also since i mentioned he is not using perlite his soil can be becoming compacted

He claims he waters everyday cause the leaves look droopy (which is one of the worst ways to tell yourself to water you plants, big damn nono)

[h=3]Droopy Leaves - Leaves that are drooping are most likely caused by over watering/under watering or lack of light.

Solution - First off, for soil, Place you finger into your soil a few inches and see if it’s dry or wet. If over watering is your problem, increase the temperature and airflow to evaporate some of the excess water also you can add some h2o2 when watering to help the roots still receive O2. **Warning!- Chronic over watering can lead to soggy roots and stagnant, icky soil. if you slide the plant out of the pot to check the soil and it stinks or is soggy then transplant into fresh dry soil. For a hydroponic system, check to see if your medium is dry or wet before you water (or your pump comes on). If your medium is still pretty wet, then you are over watering and need to water less often. If your medium is very dry before watering, under watering is your problem, just water more frequently. And lastly, If lack of light is the problem, Add more light.

[/h]

[h=3]drooping are most likely caused by over watering

[/h]

[h=3]drooping are most likely caused by over watering[/h]

And the last of my suggestions which are none of yalls

[h=3]Root Problems
Root Bound - Root bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are potted in. Plants that are root bound exhibit stunted growth, stretching, smaller and slower bud production, easier to burn with nutrient solution, needs watering too often, and wilting. A root bound plant will always start yellowing with the bottom leaves and work its way up the plant until all the fan leaves are gone.
Solution - To fix this problem you need to transplant your plant into a bigger pot. The ‘rule of thumb’ with soil is 1 gallon of soil for every foot of growth except for clones which can use a smaller size. So a 2′ tall plant is going to need AT LEAST a 2 gallon container. First thing you need to do is gently remove your plant from it’s smaller container. While it’s out, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you caught it just in time. Very carefully use your fingers to dig into the outside 1/2″ of these circular roots, loosen them up and pull them gently (yes, I said gently ) outward. If the roots are extremely tight, you can VERY carefully slice a thin layer (less then a ½”) off the outside of the entire root-ball. Once you have tended to the roots It’s time to replant it. Set the now un-bound root-ball into its new larger pot.**Note- Do not pack down this new soil, you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow the roots to easily penetrate it.

[/h]

You guys are falling for the mask, not the actual problem... Please learn from this....

 

[Jeffdogg]

LISTEN TO Cockroach!!!!!! He is a genius. Do not flush your plants!!! That is a myth too! OMG, clearex probably kills important bacteria and nutrients in your soil man! This IS such a fucked deal for new growers. All this evil misinformation about growing a damn weed!

Your calling my info disinformation? Are you being serious? lmao I'm the only one who has actually provided proof instead of just saying a comment and acting like i know what im talking about like the others do in here. My information is facts, not disimformation, the majority of the others are doing that. But if the dude wants his plants to live he should try listening to me....

 

[doujadaze]

jeffdogg Great Information Wrong about one part. Page 2 . I told him to look at his roots and upcan eventually. Done here.

 

[Jeffdogg]

jeffdogg Great Information Wrong about one part. Page 2 . I told him to look at his roots and upcan eventually. Done here.

Cool bud i just skimmed through most of the input, but yeah upcanning asap is the best thing for him to do for sure.. He also needs to learn about perlite

And dont let them dry out.

I agree to a point, he must learn "the balance" which people usually dont learn on their first grow. I always have info to give heres a little tid bit

Registered: 09/13/02 Posts: 7671 Loc: Minnesota

Soil Moisture in cannabis cultivation grown in contained medium. Since the indoor cultivation of cannabis is primarily aimed at producing the heaviest flower production in the least amount of time, the ideal soil moisture is one that will encourage the heaviest root production as soon as possible with the least amount of stress. When a seedling is transplanted into a new larger container, the root system is isolated within the confines of it's previous container, and suspended in a much larger volume. A good wet dry cycle consists of allowing the plant to take up all readily availible water in the immediate vicinity of the root system, then allowing the plant to extend it's roots further into the medium in order to reach more moisture. So avoiding the urge to give it more water sooner is very important. Since the medium will wick moisture from the outer areas to the root zone as the moisture levels drop there, the roots are never at risk of dehydration until the container is remarkably low in moisture. Some might think that the ideal situation in this case would be to give the plant a little water, more often, but this will result in waste toxins from the plant building up in the root zone, and if fertilizers are used regularly, unused fertilizer and salts will build up, locking out nutrient uptake and throwing the pH in the root zone off. Always give the plant sufficient water to allow some to run through the medium and root system and out of the bottom of the pot. Consider this hygiene. Keeping the soil too wet will reduce the availibility of oxygen to the roots, causing them to feel like shit and die. Plants suffering from overwatering (watering too often and keeping the medium saturated) will cause the plant to lose vigor and appear somewhat like the first stages of dehydration, often triggering the smothering instinct in growers and resulting in even more water, like turning fire hose on a drowning man. Allowing the soil to become too dry will cause the plant to dehydrate, the leaves will wilt due to the loss of moisture, reducing transpiration(1), causing stress that leads to hermaphroditism, as well as reducing the final yield due to the tissue damage. The surface of the medium evaporates moisture quickly so the surface will appear to be drying out while the bulk of the medium still has a great deal of water availible. Until you are comfortable with your plants and their needs. A good practice is to keep a pot of the same type that your plants are in, filled with the same medium that your plants are in. Use this to judge the weight of the containers that the plants are in. When watering you should always add the water slowly so that it seeps through the soil rather then running through it rapidly, creating courses where the bulk of the water travels. Dry soil has a tendency to repel water at first contact and pockets of trapped air will create bubbles that prevent water from wetting getting to the medium until the free water has passed and the air can travel. The roots in dryer soil will be freely exposed and vulnerable to nutrient burn. Nutrient enriched water should never be added to dry soil. I always water in the morning (their morning rarely coincides with my morning...), soon after the lights have come on. This prevents the plants from sitting in saturated containers in the dark, when the least amount of transpiration is occuring. When the plants are in three gallon containers. I give them each about one quart of clean water with no nutrients or additives, slowly over a period of a minute or two. Then let them sit for at least ten minutes before adding either water or supplement enriched water. I then add the liquid slowly, till at least a quart runs out of the bottom, then let them drain fully before retiring them to soak up some morning lumens.

 

[RIKNSTEIN]

DONT go buying bloody miracle grow ......when specialist nutes are available there not that much more expensive and you'll get much better results...

Completely forget about PH. It is a MYTH! Marijuana is a PH tolerant plant. Unless your PH is some off the chart nutty shit like Mexico City tap water then don't worry about it! Throw out that weird snake oil nutes you mentioned. LIke in the trash can right now. Look what a stoner can do with wal-mart soil, hose water from the backyard, and Miracle Grow can do.
your Plants are nitrogen starved. You need a N-P-K of like 9-6-5 or a even 10-10-10. NEVER GO TO A WEED GROW SHOP AGAIN. THEY ARE CHEAP HUSTLERS. Vegas pimps have more respect for themselves than a Marijuana Grow Shop operator. Get a book on basic house plant botany, not Jorges Guide to not Growing Weed.
View attachment 2699492View attachment 2699493View attachment 2699494

Thanks for you're assistance, I'm not opposed to Miracle grow, but it seems nearly everybody I talk to about it don't like it.

While I disagree about reading Jorges' grow bible, I do agree with the MG nute thing, I haven't been growing as long as some, but up until recently I used MG soil, MG perlite, MG nutes and have had great results....I'm here to tell you, if you can't grow with MG you can't grow, it isn't the number 1 product for nothing....with that said, I have switched to subcools super soil, he has a thread in organics check it out....
And by the way, these are in Miracle Gro soil with Miracle Gro nutes...

The ones in the center are in subcools super soil and the same age as those around them that are much smaller...subcool is the way to go, all the way to flower...

 

[doujadaze]

Go put your lab jacket on and PH your plants then flush your soil with clearex and watch your leaves wilt and yellow the last two weeks of the grow. Your information is bogus bullshit that you learned from a Marijuana Grow Picture book written by some two-bit money hungry meth fiend

haha Sorry couldn't resist Gotta love those bud candys ! Nothing but P and K . and yet you get the question. Why are my leaves turing yellow? ha

 

[Jeffdogg]

jeffdogg Great Information Wrong about one part. Page 2 . I told him to look at his roots and upcan eventually. Done here.

Cool bud, upcanning for sure is the best solution at this point and time or as soon as he can (he better add some lime and perlite!!!). I always have info if you go to the Autoflower forums and goto my thread you will see a massive amount of info lol... I usually summarize and push all the info to the last page on fri/sat. Anyway heres a tid bit id like to share

Soil Moisture in cannabis cultivation grown in contained medium.


Since the indoor cultivation of cannabis is primarily aimed at producing the heaviest flower production in the least amount of time, the ideal soil moisture is one that will encourage the heaviest root production as soon as possible with the least amount of stress.

When a seedling is transplanted into a new larger container, the root system is isolated within the confines of it's previous container, and suspended in a much larger volume.

A good wet dry cycle consists of allowing the plant to take up all readily availible water in the immediate vicinity of the root system, then allowing the plant to extend it's roots further into the medium in order to reach more moisture. So avoiding the urge to give it more water sooner is very important. Since the medium will wick moisture from the outer areas to the root zone as the moisture levels drop there, the roots are never at risk of dehydration until the container is remarkably low in moisture.

Some might think that the ideal situation in this case would be to give the plant a little water, more often, but this will result in waste toxins from the plant building up in the root zone, and if fertilizers are used regularly, unused fertilizer and salts will build up, locking out nutrient uptake and throwing the pH in the root zone off.
Always give the plant sufficient water to allow some to run through the medium and root system and out of the bottom of the pot. Consider this hygiene.

Keeping the soil too wet will reduce the availibility of oxygen to the roots, causing them to feel like shit and die.

Plants suffering from overwatering (watering too often and keeping the medium saturated) will cause the plant to lose vigor and appear somewhat like the first stages of dehydration, often triggering the smothering instinct in growers and resulting in even more water, like turning fire hose on a drowning man.

Allowing the soil to become too dry will cause the plant to dehydrate, the leaves will wilt due to the loss of moisture, reducing transpiration(1), causing stress that leads to hermaphroditism, as well as reducing the final yield due to the tissue damage.

The surface of the medium evaporates moisture quickly so the surface will appear to be drying out while the bulk of the medium still has a great deal of water availible.
Until you are comfortable with your plants and their needs. A good practice is to keep a pot of the same type that your plants are in, filled with the same medium that your plants are in. Use this to judge the weight of the containers that the plants are in.


When watering you should always add the water slowly so that it seeps through the soil rather then running through it rapidly, creating courses where the bulk of the water travels.

Dry soil has a tendency to repel water at first contact and pockets of trapped air will create bubbles that prevent water from wetting getting to the medium until the free water has passed and the air can travel.

The roots in dryer soil will be freely exposed and vulnerable to nutrient burn. Nutrient enriched water should never be added to dry soil.



I always water in the morning (their morning rarely coincides with my morning...), soon after the lights have come on. This prevents the plants from sitting in saturated containers in the dark, when the least amount of transpiration is occuring.

When the plants are in three gallon containers. I give them each about one quart of clean water with no nutrients or additives, slowly over a period of a minute or two.
Then let them sit for at least ten minutes before adding either water or supplement enriched water.
I then add the liquid slowly, till at least a quart runs out of the bottom, then let them drain fully before retiring them to soak up some morning lumens.

 

[Impman]

You know why there is no 'REAL MARIJUANA GROW BOOKS'???!? Because it would be like a 3 page book. Put seed in dirt (just about any dirt) walmart potting soil is fancy enough. Put in light, add water. If you feel like it. Use some MG. You will have BOMB WEED

 

[Impman]

You can feed a short uncoordinated child with the most expensive, best food and nutrients on the plant Earth. But the kid will never grow up to be Michael Jordan. Genetics is EVERYTHING, well 96%. You can use human piss and dirt from the gutter, if your genetics are good you will have Top Shelf Meds

 

[Currency]

First time is always experimenting anyway. I'm purchasing some MG tomorrow.

I don't understand this whole ph thing, I've got some PH down, but that's it.

 

[RIKNSTEIN]

DONT go buying bloody miracle grow ......when specialist nutes are available there not that much more expensive and you'll get much better results...

Completely forget about PH. It is a MYTH! Marijuana is a PH tolerant plant. Unless your PH is some off the chart nutty shit like Mexico City tap water then don't worry about it! Throw out that weird snake oil nutes you mentioned. LIke in the trash can right now. Look what a stoner can do with wal-mart soil, hose water from the backyard, and Miracle Grow can do.
your Plants are nitrogen starved. You need a N-P-K of like 9-6-5 or a even 10-10-10. NEVER GO TO A WEED GROW SHOP AGAIN. THEY ARE CHEAP HUSTLERS. Vegas pimps have more respect for themselves than a Marijuana Grow Shop operator. Get a book on basic house plant botany, not Jorges Guide to not Growing Weed.
View attachment 2699492View attachment 2699493View attachment 2699494

what does this look like?

They are 5 weeks old today.

Ok, simple solution, go get some MG houseplant food for 3 or 4 bucks, get some epsom salts for 2 or 3 bucks, go home and put some tap water in a cleaned out plastic 1 gallon milk jug, let the water set out for 24 hours to evaperate the chlorine, mix 30 drops of that MG nutrient (should be 8-7-6 for NPK) this is only 1/3 strength, mix 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salts to that same gallon of tap water and nutes, shake well every so often and let set for 20 minutes or so, then shake again and water/feed that baby she will perk up in 3 days I gaurantee it...

When I was using the MG nutes, I mixed the MG houseplant food with the MG Cactus food 80 drops each in 1 gallon with a full tablespoon of epsom salts, this was full strength for me.....Your tap water has calcium in it, epsom salts is magnesium, so there's your cal-mag good luck man..

 

[Impman]

I am not promoting Miracle Grow at all. Just their practical N-P-K ratio for Marijuana

 

[djxtreme]

I cant believe your all here telling him to go and buy MG....when theres better alternatives...im not saying don't use if you got it knocking about but to recommend they go and buy it is just crazy......

 

[RIKNSTEIN]

DONT go buying bloody miracle grow ......when specialist nutes are available there not that much more expensive and you'll get much better results...

Completely forget about PH. It is a MYTH! Marijuana is a PH tolerant plant. Unless your PH is some off the chart nutty shit like Mexico City tap water then don't worry about it! Throw out that weird snake oil nutes you mentioned. LIke in the trash can right now. Look what a stoner can do with wal-mart soil, hose water from the backyard, and Miracle Grow can do.
your Plants are nitrogen starved. You need a N-P-K of like 9-6-5 or a even 10-10-10. NEVER GO TO A WEED GROW SHOP AGAIN. THEY ARE CHEAP HUSTLERS. Vegas pimps have more respect for themselves than a Marijuana Grow Shop operator. Get a book on basic house plant botany, not Jorges Guide to not Growing Weed.
View attachment 2699492View attachment 2699493View attachment 2699494

I never said anything about clearex, wtf are you on right now? Please stop being so fucking ignorant, holy shit dude........ Somebody who has been here since 2011 and only 146 posts, pretty sure that speaks for itself.... Maybe you should learn what ghoogle is and start doing some actual research instead of saying "listen to this dude and listen to that dude DERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR" I'm providing accurate information unlike some people who piggy back what people say cause their ignorant minds cant comprehend the simple basics of growing marijuana.... Good day sir, hopefully you will learn to stop talking about things you have no clue about. Oh wait you talk about things you know you would rather just point to the people that you think sounds good cause your the one who knows nothing my bad.... Your momma must be so proud she has such a big troll. She must give you kisses everyday little buddy.. Hopefully next time you wont get all sugared up before finding your way to the big boy forums..

You have never grown a sprout before let alone weed

Ok guys lets chill, we're all here to help not hinder...have an open mind to learning new things, that's what I do anyway, not to mention I'm usually to high to argue and my wife always wins anyway ...Don't worry, be happy

Thanks for your post.


A couple questions.


How often do I water, and how much should I should I water? A litre per plant or something?

Should I buy perlite, or will MG be enough?

Will I need to re-pot? I've already done it once and I'm afraid to do it again. Since they are stronger now, do I just grab it by the roots and lift into another pot?


Thanks alot for your help/post.

You are most welcome...and yes I use about 40% perlite to 60% soil for good drainage (mix well) and I only water when dry and the leaves start to droop, that means their roots are streatching and looking for water/food, let them droop for a day to establish a good root ball and then water/feed...and I usually give enough water/feed to have 10-20% runoff of my water/feed coming out the bottom into the drainpan....and don't be afraid to transplant if they need it, they are strong, but get the soil moist and squeeze the outside of the pot to loosen soil and turn slightly upside down to slide out of old pot and cradle her to her new pot (that has soil in the bottom) and gently lay her in and put new soil around her DO NOT PACK SOIL just pat it down gently...good luck bro and welcome to RIU..

 

[RIKNSTEIN]

By the way, I have plenty of experience with MG soil an nutes...here's my MG grow going now...

View attachment 2699570 MG soil, MG nutes
View attachment 2699571 MG bud porn

 

[Jeffdogg]

How often do I water, and how much should I should I water? A litre per plant or something?

The best way to tell when your plant needs water is by watering it till you see about 10% runoff water coming out of the bottom. Lift the pot and see how heavy it is, when your plant is thirsty the pot will be at least 3/4's lighter then when the pot was just watered. Or you can water and wait until you start seeing the leaves droop down then lift the pot and that will give you a good idea when to water. Dont listen to that finger bullshit nubs try to push on ppl....

 

[Jeffdogg]

By the way, I have plenty of experience with MG soil an nutes...here's my MG grow going now...

View attachment 2699570 MG soil, MG nutes
View attachment 2699571 MG bud porn

Its funny most people talk bad about MG nutes because of all the rumors they heard when they were kids (i heard once it takes the THC out of the plants LMFAO) I used it before to test it out and it grew plants just fine. Sadly a good product brought down by ignorance and rumors.


With MG soil i would for sure buy some perlite. That stuff compacts really tight!! Had some seedlinds in the past that got strangled cause i didnt use perlite. The bottom of the visible stem started sucking in like a straw then it went upwards till the babies fell to the ground . Lesson learned though that happened back in the day when i first started growing.