Spliffers Paradise

rikdabrick

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
kaloconnection said:
I use whatever Brohner's soap is on sale, Almond is what I have currently. I read that most soap was not the best for plants and so I wanted to try the silica.

Coco water would be a tough sacrifice to make, I love drinking the stuff and dont produce much on my property but I suppose I could give it a try every so often.
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You only have to use 1 ounce of coconut water for every 15 ounces of water to make up a gallon, so one young coconut should be able to make at least 6-8 gallons of water. If you can't find them, you should be able to buy a couple for $2 each (at least on Maui and the east side of the Big Island). Also, I've read on the recycled soil thread on ICMag that it's good to water your plants with silica and aloe also with every watering. Pretty standard protocol with those guys on that thread. ClackamasCoot posted quite a few links to studies that have shown that raising the silica content in garden and farm soil is a major missing component in conventional gardening and farming practices.

And like Spliff said Agsil 16H is cheaper in the long run. It's 32% silica, so it's pretty concentrated. Pro-tekt is the same stuff, but at 3% silica. Same thing, you just add more Pro-tekt for every gallon.
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
rikdabrick said:
You only have to use 1 ounce of coconut water for every 15 ounces of water to make up a gallon, so one young coconut should be able to make at least 6-8 gallons of water. If you can't find them, you should be able to buy a couple for $2 each (at least on Maui and the east side of the Big Island). Also, I've read on the recycled soil thread on ICMag that it's good to water your plants with silica and aloe also with every watering. Pretty standard protocol with those guys on that thread. ClackamasCoot posted quite a few links to studies that have shown that raising the silica content in garden and farm soil is a major missing component in conventional gardening and farming practices.

And like Spliff said Agsil 16H is cheaper in the long run. It's 32% silica, so it's pretty concentrated. Pro-tekt is the same stuff, but at 3% silica. Same thing, you just add more Pro-tekt for every gallon.
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I agree but never thought of adding more protekt. I would dilute the agsil down to 3%, save money :mrgreen:
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
Well I am going to have to get some fans in the greenhouse.This rain is horrendous got mold one of the Kandy Kush's cola, chopped it letting the bottom finish out. She will be cut down in the next couple days and replaced with Bright Moments.

Kalo...I don't know where to source it locally, I tink you gotta order it online.
 
rikdabrick

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
Sorry, I think I made that sound confusing. You do dilute the Agsil. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I think you only use 1 gram per gallon of water. I'm pretty sure that's right because I remember thinking, "Dang, a pound will make you 454 gallons of water".

And Kalo, I don't know where to get Agsil in Hilo either. You could check the Garden Exchange or the Farm Supply Co-op on Kawili St. maybe. But you can get Pro-tekt all over the place. Either of those two should have it and all Ohana Greenhouse Supply and Greenhouse Specialists in Keaau should have it also. So, Pro-tekt is probably what you want unless you want to order online.

I was just reading a study today of multiple natural extracts used on plants including aloe. The people doing the study did both foliar and soil drench of each of the extracts and found aloe to have been the best for plant growth out of the extracts used. The results were really good for the aloe foliar spraying, but were even better for the soil drench. I think it said they got an extra 10% growth from the soil drench. The study was done over the course of two years and sounded legit. I'd do both if I were growing any plants right now, but I thought you might think that was interesting to *hear*.

You guys ever make alfalfa teas?
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
Kandy Kush Trainwreck dom got cut down. I don't know what I was thinking not putting a fan in there :wall: Bought an extension cord today and put a fan in their. Going to look into some solar fans here in the future.

Small plants are fine I think their is less humidity towards the bottom of the greenhouse. The other Kandy Kush looks cherry, so does god bud she's looking like she'll pull around 8. I'm guessing around 4 zips for this Kandy Kush..time will tell. Aloha

Rik...I used some pre made tea bags that had alfalfa in them before worked cherry, it's 9 bucks for 5 lbs of DTE brand. Even cheaper at a farm supply store I'd imagine...
 
K

kaloconnection

Well-Known Member
bummer on the mold, we need those trade winds back to start giving us some fresh air again, instead of this stagnant vog. What sizes are your final pots?

No dice on the agsil in Hilo, called everyone and they never heard of it. Went with the Pro-tekt because the agsil would cost me $19 just to ship a $12/lb bag of the agsil. I'm hoping the silica will help out with the slightly high temps in my veg. tent.
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
Stank azz vog. It'll make your plants a lot more sturdy..Good to have in your regimen fo'shoa. Kandy Kush's are in 7 gallon hardpots everything else is in 15 and 20 gallon no till smart pots this year.
 
rikdabrick

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
SpliffAndMyLady said:
Kandy Kush Trainwreck dom got cut down. I don't know what I was thinking not putting a fan in there :wall: Bought an extension cord today and put a fan in their. Going to look into some solar fans here in the future.

Small plants are fine I think their is less humidity towards the bottom of the greenhouse. The other Kandy Kush looks cherry, so does god bud she's looking like she'll pull around 8. I'm guessing around 4 zips for this Kandy Kush..time will tell. Aloha

Rik...I used some pre made tea bags that had alfalfa in them before worked cherry, it's 9 bucks for 5 lbs of DTE brand. Even cheaper at a farm supply store I'd imagine...
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Yeah, too bad about the mold. I wish I was thinking ahead for you. If I ever got a greenhouse I'd like to do it like the display one at Greenhouse Specialists if possible. They've got the greenhouse screen on the ends of the greenhouse and on the bottom four feet too, so it gets plenty of ventilation, but fans should help out a ton, especially the solar fans.

How tall are your plants? It's hard to tell from pictures. I'd guess the GodxBlueberry is about 4' and the Purple Flojack is about 2'. How'd I do? And if your other Kandy Kush is looking good then that's good news. Sounds like you got a mold resistant keeper on that one, maybe.

I was reading the recycled soil thread on ICMag (I'm on page 95 now, out 526) and Clackamas Coot said he did a foliar spray with something that gave him the most extreme "praying hands" he'd ever seen. He said the leaves were straight up at 90 degrees (closed) and stayed in the "praying" position for three days. I can't remember, but I think it was either a fermented alfalfa tea or a fermented barley seed tea (with aloe and Pro-tekt also, he adds it to every spray and soil drench, I think). I've read so much of that thread in the past few days I can't even remember what I read. I need to start taking notes, but most of the important stuff is in the first 20 pages.
 
rikdabrick

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
kaloconnection said:
bummer on the mold, we need those trade winds back to start giving us some fresh air again, instead of this stagnant vog. What sizes are your final pots?

No dice on the agsil in Hilo, called everyone and they never heard of it. Went with the Pro-tekt because the agsil would cost me $19 just to ship a $12/lb bag of the agsil. I'm hoping the silica will help out with the slightly high temps in my veg. tent.
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Here's some of the benefits of Pro-tekt/Agsil listed from one garden retailer:

  • Provides resistance to mineral stress.
  • Decreases climate stress.
  • Improves strength.
  • Increases growth and yield.
  • Helps plants to resist toxicity from phosphorous, manganese, aluminum and iron.
  • Increases tolerance to salt.
  • Protect the plants from botrytis (grey mold) and powdery mildew (PM).
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
Heres a litttle Kandy Kush Nug shot. This is the trainwreck phenotype. Nice lemon fuel smell on this one. Too bad I had to cut it early.
IMG_1237[2].jpg
 
K

kaloconnection

Well-Known Member
Hey spliff, you ever hear of using comfrey as an organic fertilizer? I finally was able to source some root crowns to try and grow my own. It's supposed to be highly medicinal but also very high in N and potassium.

The usual method is to let some leaves decompose in a bucket of water for a few weeks, but after talking to my korean natural farming friend, I'm wondering if the process could be sped by just making ferment plant juice with brown sugar instead.
 
SpliffAndMyLady

SpliffAndMyLady

Well-Known Member
kaloconnection said:
Hey spliff, you ever hear of using comfrey as an organic fertilizer? I finally was able to source some root crowns to try and grow my own. It's supposed to be highly medicinal but also very high in N and potassium.

The usual method is to let some leaves decompose in a bucket of water for a few weeks, but after talking to my korean natural farming friend, I'm wondering if the process could be sped by just making ferment plant juice with brown sugar instead.
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Never tried comfrey yet...

Let me know how it goes
 
rikdabrick

rikdabrick

Well-Known Member
kaloconnection said:
Hey spliff, you ever hear of using comfrey as an organic fertilizer? I finally was able to source some root crowns to try and grow my own. It's supposed to be highly medicinal but also very high in N and potassium.

The usual method is to let some leaves decompose in a bucket of water for a few weeks, but after talking to my korean natural farming friend, I'm wondering if the process could be sped by just making ferment plant juice with brown sugar instead.
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As for medicinal use here's an excerpt from The Bulk Herb Store with the link:

Common Names: Comfrey, gum plant, bruisewort, knit bone, nipbone, knit back, boneset
Latin Name: Symphytum officinale
Origin: USA
Comfrey is high in calcium and vitamin C. It has a strong history of being used as an external application by itself or in poultices for the mending of wounds and broken bones. It is a contact healer, relieving pain and immediately helping to grow new flesh and bone. The Latin name itself translates "knitting together."
Excerpts from The Green Pharmacy Herbal Handbook

One of the main therapeutic substances in comfrey is allantoin, an anti-inflammatory that perks up the immune system, speeds wound healing, and encourages new skin and cell growth. It's a time-honored treatment for healing sores, bruises, and even broken bones. The tannins in comfrey are astringent, and the rosmarinic acid might contribute some anti-inflammatory assistance.
Precautions: Not recommended for internal use.
From Our Reading and/or Experience...


  • We use comfrey often in external applications. It is readily available fresh, probably in your own back yard. It is not recommended for internal use.
  • It can be used to benefit anyone: men, women (including before, during or after pregnancy, and nursing), children and animals.
  • It is critical that comfrey is stored in a dark, dry, and cool place. Refrigeration or freezing is highly recommended, but not necessary. Following these suggestions will delay the loss of it's highly valued nutritional and medicinal properties.
http://www.bulkherbstore.com/Comfrey-Leaf-Cut_Organic?s=comfrey&id=jCF8AGZV

And as for Fermented Plant Extract Tea (FPE) here's another excerpt from the "Botanicals" thread on ICMag and I think it was posted here on the ROLS no-till thread. And the link to the ICMag thread. The first part is for making the FPE and the last paragraph is for comfrey in particular:

The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.

The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.

The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.

It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.

Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!

Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.

Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.

Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254210


 
K

kaloconnection

Well-Known Member
Thanks Rik,
I have the non-flowering comfrey, russian #14 variety. The flowering comfrey is supposed to better medicinally and the non-flowering is supposed to be better for gardening. They can be used interchangeably though.
 
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