ManishWayz
Reaction score
37

Profile posts Latest activity Postings About

  • systems an only the root systems(the microbes we use) like i use voodoo juice an Advanced Nutrients Sensizym i cnt use them while im using the H2O2 bc ill just be wasting nutrients the H2o2 will kill the microbes...i ill just feed them the grow an B-52(vitamins B) while im using the H2O2 once every other week for my mothers an once every other 2 weeks for my veg an flower or i might just do it every 3dr week or when my roots start to turn color..now im not 100% sure abt what im saying im getting this stuff out the internet.. im trying to but it the best i kn how too..not very good at breaking down stuff without showing someone how..i hope this helps an if im wrong in anyway plz let me know.
    i have the all my plants in one container too an only one is fucking up..now i dnt kn all the details but ive read that calcium can build up an cut off water an nutrients to the plants so thats why im getting H2O2 to kill all the unwanted calcium build up on my roots an keep them all pretty an white..now when you use this stuff you can use any kind of microbes with it or you will be wasting nutrients bc it will kill the microbes..microbes are cells that help grow the root
    plus i kinda have the same problem too one of mine isnt growing as big as the others an coulp of the fan leaves have a burn tips...so im lowering my ppm an buying some H2O2(Hydrogen peroxide ) to help kill any unwanted shit in the water an on the roots plus keep my roots all pretty an white
    Now i didnt not write this lol i just found it an i didnt even know about this stuff im glad you said something abt this..i hope this will help you out
    All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par, whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be.... the leaves and/or stems will droop.
    5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
    4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
    3. High Light - yes, it&#8217;s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
    system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
    2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it&#8217;s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root
    happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant&#8217;s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root&#8217;s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem
    1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of .....
    Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> &#8220;Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!&#8221;, or, &#8220;My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?&#8221; Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the &#8220;solution&#8221; the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I&#8217;ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
    i forget why they do that but im going to find out the web site where this guy breaks down every thing in videos..
    ya i love how my plants look after i been using them but its been two weeks for the only one i have in the flower room to start budding but its cool ill start the 9 weeks this week plus i heard mazar sometime will take its time at first but when it starts going it goes plus all the boost i have hope/this will be a big yield.. i just got my PPm meter an found out that i was 1350 ppm i was like wtf so i added abt 5 more gallons bc my water was low an thats how you lower you PPM..tomorrow i get my Ph tester now i hope it aint high..i never use one before bc once i tested my water the first time it was around 5.5 to 6.0 plus i never had a problem but now im going to do bigger harvest i thought i would invest in it..how is everything looking on your end?
    ya i would upgrade your nutrients to advanced but thats just me i would pay a lil more for alot more buds
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
Top