KansasCityChief

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  • depending on the size of ur light u could flower now or u could let it veg, if ur runnin one plant under a 400hps or mh then ya let it veg transplant it to a bigger container and top it or train it so u have more top colas, if ur runnin like a 250 or 150 hps or mh id transplant plant it when she needs it then flower her, if ur runnin flueroscents tubes or cfls id flower it now, maybe put it in a bigger container still if she is getting good root mass in the container she is in, if ur flowering with fluero's then ul wanna keep ur light closer than u would with a h.i.d. i know theyre sum great groups on RIU with growers than only use flueroscents and nothing else
    looking much better! keep it simple..dont over think. I wouldnt mess with foliar spraying. Try to stay calm and hit the bong.
    Just go by the nute schedule. you can go 12/12 at anytime now... good work!
    i checked out ur journal pics, ur plant is just showing its sex, its going thru the pre flower stage showing you that it is old enough to flower and what sex it is all cannabis plants do that nothing to worry bout, im gettin a better look at the burn from these last pics too and what wattage light are u runnin? and how close are ur lights? cause the burn on the outer edges reminds me kinda of light burn, depending on ur temps it could be stress from that as well, its kinda hard to say without knowing the layout of the grow i.e. whats wattage lights, if ur runnin a inline fan to vent and if so whats the cfm ratings, ur temps and humidity highs and lows for 24hrs, hit me up with the info on ur grow and have u been checkin the ph of the soil lately? also i remeber u said u are using distelled water now are u gonna continue to use distelled or filtered water cause if soil id reconmend gettin a mycorrhizae innoclulant and watering it in
    Hey buddy. The hairs you mentioned are the plant showing sex. Normally hairs mean its female, if it grows balls it's male. You can put your plant to 12/12 whenever you want, you can leave it in veg until the plant is big enough to flower. I personally veg for 3 months to get a huge harvest. It's really up to you based upon how much time you have. Short veg means smaller flowers.

    I am going to check out your pics and then post back. Thanks! Hashman
    depending on what lights u have runnin, u could take a clone or two and make sure they root, once ur clones are rooted u can flower and still have the strain to grow again if u like the results, i hate takin clones off a plant that is flowering cause once the clone is rooted is has to re veg which could take a exttra month, so thas why i said to make sure ur clones are showing roots before u flower, save u sum headaches that i went thru
    its okay if she is showing sum little white hairs, when a seed reachs a certain age it will show pre flowers so u can tell if its a male or female, since ur seeing little white hairs thats a good sign that means u have a female, it also means the seed is old enough to flower, u dont have to flower it now the plant is jus indicating it is old enough to start the flowering cycle, with clones u will already see pre flowers but with seeds it can take anywhere from 30 to 50 days from germination to show sex, so no worries there brotha u are all good jus keep that puppy happy and u will be happy in the end
    Water the plant only when the soil is dry when you stick your finger into the soil. The plants look like they were just slightly burned and overwatered. Pure water with nothing else.
    no it shouldnt, and i was thinkin it over and id wait to add the grow big, let ur soil dry out good and then water, then let it dry out hella good again and water, u might be overwatering, if watering less doesnt help then ya i would feed with the grow big so the chelates will force it to eat
    hey bud jus posted on ur last journal, i could see the pics alot better in there, read my post in ur journal before u try anything with ur plant
    pick ur container up to see how heavy it is when u just watered, pick it up everyday to feel the weight and ul be able to tell when it needs water, get use to how heavy ur containers are when they have water and when they need it cause for smaller grows this is the easiest method of findng out if ur soil is dry and needs water, trust me the difference in weight from a 3gal bag of soil that has water to a 3gal bag of dry soil is a big difference
    ya brother if u have the grow big on deck give it a shot, ur leaves are droopin more cause ur plant cant eat so its suckin all the avalible water and nutes from ur leaves, ur leaves will prolly start turning really brittle soon, get that chelate in there force that fucker to start eating again, also do be careful not to over water tho cause that can cause alota problems too, feed with alittle grow big and give it alittle time to fix itself, so watch the moisture of the soil since ur plant isnt eating properly it wont suck up as much water as quick so until it recovers definitly watch the moitsture of the soil
    ur getting alota salt build up from the tap water so that could be causing a lock out, basically ya get a chelating agent like humic acid or use a synthetic nute (they always have good amounts of chelating agents) like the grow big, if u use a nutrient with a chelate in it then feed very light with the nurtient, but if u use jus a chelate by itself like humic acid then u can give it half strength, i never go with the amounts the bottle says always go half strength, there are sum powder version of humic acid too like the tm7 or humaplex that u jus top dress ur soil with and water it in
    post those last pics in a journal so i can enlarge them to get a better look, if ur soil is 6.5 and there is no bugs at all (look for little yellow dots on the stem sum bugs can hide well and u wont notice that ur having a bug problem until it gets worse) and ur still gettin sum burn then ur plant is having a tough time eating its food, u gota get sum type of chelate to help them eatt, did u try feeding with the smallest amount of grow (i say the smallest amount cause ur plant is still sumwhat young and i dont want to make it worse) it looks to me like u need to get something in there to help that plant eat, any type of chelate like humic or fulvic acid
    well the leafs that were showing signs will prolly continue to look like that, what u want to watch for is signs on the new growth, if the new new growth is continueing to do that let me know send me a pic and il see if i can give u a helpful answer, to be honest to be it looks like ur getting nutrient lock out from the amount of salts buildin up in ur root zone from the tap water, maybe try gettin sum humic acid (humboldt humic from humboldt nutrients is the only one ive used but i know it works good) either that or give them the smallest amount possible of the grow big so the chelating agents will force the plant to eat and possibly fix ur lock out, wait for a few days first tho before trying anything make sure its happening to the new growth too before u start getting worried, another possibility is that the ocean forest has alittle to much foood in it for the seedlings and its gettin sum nutrient burn which will lead to lock out
    hi KCC. relax amigo, growing is easy. When i first started i was a nervous wreck. now i look back and think .. hello, why?
    Water how ever much it takes to have it filter through the pot and out the other end.. I usually mix up a gallon because the nute directions give you specifics on the bottle how much to add to a gallon.. if your gilr needs 2 gallons so be it.. but ususally one should be more than enough unless your trying to flush.
    iz all good, atleast since u are growing with the grow big and all u dont need to worry bout gettin ur water filter an mycorrhizae, but i would reconmend getting a tds meter so u can measure ur nutrient solutions and slowly increase the ppm as the plant grows, superthrive is a controversial subject, alota people swear by it and says the b vitamins promote healthier roots, but science still havent fully agreed with that, as far as i know alot universities are still runnin test on the affects of b vitamins on plants, since u bought u might as well use it, their are all organic version of superthrive they are basically jus b vitamins, never used any myself i dont use to many bottled products, a buddy of mine that taught me sum of what i know used to use superthrive, he would add it every other feeding til it was time to flush
    lol dont worry when its almost time for me to flush you kno ill be coming to your page to ask atleast 4 questions. I guess im growing synthetic because i have the big bloom, tiger bloom, and grow big. and my dumass bought some superthrive too but i heard it doesnt really do much?
    no ur plant wont end up dying, it just wont grow to it fullest potiental, unless u grow synthetic, what fox farm nutes are u planning on using? the only liquid organic nutes fox farm offers is big bloom, kangroots root drench, microbe brew, and sledgehammer, but the tiger bloom, grow big, and all their other bottled products are synthetic, also their cha ching nd beastie bloom is sythetic as well, the only liquid nutrient i use (besides molasses) is big bloom, big bloom is great food for ur microlife, i have tried out the kangroots root drench and wasnt overall impressed, but anyway give me a lineup of the nutes ur plannin on using so i have a better idea of the grow
    ya as long as u keep the filter somewhat new, i had to use one of the brita's that screw onto a sink for a while til i got a R/O filter, it has a little green button that would start turning red when the filter started to go, i would replace the filter when the button started turning red, so it will filter out chlorine and fluoride, but not any elements like magnesium, so ul still wanna at least flush good once with distelled water before harvest
    keep in mind this is for a all organic setup, there are numerous synthetic chelating agents that will force ur plant to eat (they also kill microlife) there are also organic chelating agents like humic and fulvic acids, molasses also works as a chelate but i wouldnt reconmend using molasses until flower, i gota be honest with u i dont know very much about synthetics just the basics cause i understand the different elements and materials that make up nutrients, i know alot more about organic growing both bottle (soup style) feeding and using hot soil mixes that are compost heavy and have all the nurtients in the soil adding only compost teas (True living organics)
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