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Nice! I've got a cross I've been working for almost 3 years that is on F6. I figure I'll take it out another generation or 2 and call it. it helps that one half of the cross was already extremely stable. even my f6 are very uniform.

Here is some flower rosin I pressed out of some popcorn buds and a bit of trim. Orkle.

agreed. humidifiers can be dangerous business during flower. I'd rather my rH be 30% and have to water more often than worry about bud rot.

flush thread #256,439,009 and nothing new will be learned and nobody will change their mind. Basic knowledge of plant biology solves all of it in minutes, and yet the debates persist. yay.

something I forgot to mention that may help you diagnose problems is knowing the difference between mobile and immobile nutrients. immobile nutrients, once in use by a plant, is fixed in place and cannot be relocated by the plant and therefore deficiencies will start at the top of the plant...

normally when I hear leaves yellowing starting at the bottom I tend to think N deficiency. Looking at the pics though, that isn't what N def looks like in my experience. just to satisfy my curiosity though, what is your source of N in you current feed regimen?

mainlining, particularly when performed by someone whose never tried it before, is definitely not 'the slightest bit of stress'. we'd all need more information before actually knowing for sure how much of the blame is on genetics and how much is on plant stress. that being said, bitchy...

just heard back. he was having a touch of light stress and has backed them off to 18 inches for the time being. He did comment that he believes if he were running CO² and higher room temps that he could have continued at 14 inches. How long until you start flowering under these?

the cool thing about the bar configuration is even light distribution and less need for hang height. I believe he's got them about 12 or 14 inches above the canopy at the moment. I'll confirm with him tomorrow.

I have an associate running 4 of them. He hasn't had them long so I can't speak to longevity and build quality, but with Samsung 301 and osram reds there is a lot to like. He is 6 weeks into flower at the moment and they are putting in work.

good terpine production relies on 4 things. 1.) genetics 2.) healthy plants grown under optimal conditions 3.) flower maturity. plants harvested early tend to lack in terpines. 4.) Proper drying. plants dried too quickly don't have time to convert chlorophyll and carbohydrates and will often...

truth. I have a strain I've been working with for 5 years or so that tested at 20% that fucks me up harder than a lot of the new hotness strains claiming 30%+

I am a big fan of In House Genetics. Afghanimal is what I'm looking to run next from them.

sadly I had very little contact with blueberry outside of smoking it. Never ran it. I had a buddy that grew DJ Shorts for a year or two, but he lost it in a bust. I will say that I liked that a hell of a lot more than Blue Dream.

Santa Cruz cut.

agreed. when I scrog I use the beginning of the stretch that takes place after flipping the lights to 12/12 to finish filling in the screen.

Is it possible to get your temps up a bit? cannabis under LEDs almost always prefers tempsnin the low to mid 80s. especially during veg through mid flower.

I don't see any signs of re-veg, plant pathogens or seeds, so my next guess would be not enough light. what sort of light are you using?

Frequency: 50-60HZInput Voltage: AC100-277V that's from the spec sheet for the light. you should be fine.

not a stupid question at all. some drivers can handle either input voltage and some cannot and it is always better to be safe than sorry. gimme a minute and I'll look it up as I'm not super familiar with that fixture.