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Lower RH won't be an issue, 50 - 60 is optimal but don't kill yourself trying to get to that level. Handle your buds with sterile gloves, and clean your trimmers with pure alcohol. Better to be safe than sorry. If you can't get the RH up easily, try slowing down your exhaust fan (if you can) and...

Sounds cool mate, did you have any side by side comparisons from the same crop? Fridge vs normal dry room? I hear some people freeze dry their bud these days, but those machines are pretty expensive.

I think you have to elaborate a little here... if I chucked the worlds best buds on planet Mercury, I’m not gonna end up with good weed... Regardless of quality at harvest, surely some kind of good process when it comes to drying and curing is good either way? You wouldn’t service your Porsche...

I think a lot of people get hung up on the headline figures when it comes to EC, like EC during seedling stage should be 400... I mean that's all well and good, but the breakdown of components that make 400 need to be well balanced, no good having 400 ec if 90% of it is nitrogen. Seedling needs...

Cannabinoids start to volatilise at 70, it doesn’t hurt much but below 68 is optimal... not that your life has to depend on it

Cooler temperatures are optimal if you want a better smoke. You have to bear in mind that any smell coming from your harvested bud is basically terpenes that are volatilising (kind of like evaporating) which ultimately means that the finished product is losing taste and potency. Optimal...

This is the analysis for each product according to the calculator... based on TDS 0.7

Forgot to add, the plant can only use 83% of K20 - Potash

I have been looking into nute levels etc over the last few days, and was given this link by another member on this forum, it talks about 'usable PPM's' rather than the ones you'll get from your actual reader. For example, I am using the Botanicare KIND BLOOM, if I add 1ml to exactly 1 litre of...

I was going off of Mel Franks - Moderate Light - even though I have 2 x 315w CMH - the figures in the growth stage seem excessive to me and would lift my PPM's way too high. I have gone over a little, still tweaking but it is difficult to get everything to work perfectly with so many different...

Have you finished any grows using those ratios?

Yeah, EC goes right over my head, but I think the recommended NPK ratios are in PPM on that link you sent me so have worked off of that. My schedule looks completely different now, had to use PK boost quite a lot, as those recommendations fly in the face of what a lot of other how-to's say...

Just need to convert above into gallons so I can match it up, which will now make it even more complicated... If this works, I owe you a few beers, thanks man

Haha I think you dragged me down the rabbit hole! My spreadsheet has become even more complicated! Yes, I am from Europe so metric prevails in my mind, there is 3.78 litres to a US gallon, so I think the math checks out, I have attached a screen shot of PPMs for each molecule/element. Looks...

Aha, I just clicked on the link below, those PPMs on calculator is estimated total dissolved solids that the plant can actually consume? So the other parts in the KIND solution are unusable solids?

Hi mate, Have had a read through, used the calculator vs the PPM when I did a test with RO water a few weeks back, adding 1ml to 1 litre of water and got the following results: PPM for KIND BASE RO 204 PPM Calculator 95 PPM PPM for KIND BLOOM RO 166 PPM Calculator 120 PPM PPM for KIND GROW...

I am pretty sure I am not as smart or as informed as you, so thanks so much so far, I just want to make sure I understand this right. Even though Phos content and Potassium content are showing the same on the bottle, should I be using some kind of multiplier for each element? Or does each...

I guess you are saying that the NPK breakdown should be weighted towards PPMs per element rather than the volume that's in the solution?