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Research the "Boundry Layer hypothesis" in hydroponic science, it's a strong argument to not: (1.) have huge root mats, (2.) and/or running a system ignorant to this. Just because one may run HPA aero with 20ppm O2 does in no way mean that your roots are getting that. I find much how-to articles...

First took me a few days to understand "Kjeldahl Total Nitrogen" analysis well enough to report on it. I don't want to post rubbish (like so many on the internet do). Here we go: White Rhino Berlin HB Note: all my graphs are in terms of P as P, not P2O5 (44% actual P). Also K as...

I have been busy reviewing some literature since I reactivated this thread, as I've been desperately yearning for mj data, not just mint or tomatoes lol. Thought I'd share what I've just learnt. Here are sampled plant-tissue data (from Advanced Nutrients) in the form of a nice graph. Nutrient...

I read a paper that says boosting sulfur likely improves carvone and other terpenoid levels in Mint, in soil and DFT hydro. In recirculating hydro, sulfur (and magnesium and esp calcium) build up as they are taken up by plants much slower.

We need more threads like this. In-fact some scientifically researched papers on optimal nutrients ppm's for nft and media and for each stage of growth of our fav lil plant would make me drool.

I had a brand new smaller "Dophin" pump lying around that got hooked up. Actually in theory smaller pumps are better for NFT as a slower flow rate allows for nutrient uptake, like around 1/2 gallon or ~2 liters per minute per 1m growtube. Less is more and my wallet stays full.

Aaand it happened again lol. Plants are fine, no wilt. I made a new habbit of daily CHECKING for pump vibration on the manifold, and there was nothing. So i tried to unstick the pump and still nothing. So I took the pump out the casing was bubbled-out and pump is dead. Guess that pump was on its...

It is a new system. Coming from years of DWC and moving to nft type systems will test one's complacency. Even the best pilots have to learn to fly a new aircraft right from the beginning again. The "I can always ride a bicycle" doesn't apply to tech, esp if you experimenting.

Yes I was looking at those, pricey tho. Do like the industrialness of them.

I think it drains a grow-tub periodically with continuous pumping, if I understood the concept right. I prefer the elegance of basic flood n drain plumbing.

Nah. I use the pump-pipe to drain and/or overflow plumbing to drain my growtubes. Basically just at night it cycles on/off every 30min. When the res drains back, ideally/hopefully soon my arduino can take accurate readings and actions, eg res volume, EC, etc. While that happens, the roots should...

yeah I thought too. But that defeats the purpose of my flood n drain feature. I do ask myself is that extra lil bit oxygen worth stopping the pump...

OP here. Well, it happened again. It seems my pump (Boyu or some shit) likes to stick. Dam glad I made the habit by checking-up every day! Switched off the 600W hps and misted plants, door is ajar so dimmer sunlight can still come in to maintain photoperiod state. They have started bouncing...

Nah, I think because I'm so used to DWC that I literally forgot to switch the pump back on in my new active hydro system. Complacency. No. What I mean is surface area of the water vs oxygen transfer rate into that water. Like can O2 dissolve quickly into a hanging wet root mass, say for a...

I am so over DWC--10 years of changing 30kg + reservoirs is a pain, and those systems have less-than-optimal O2 levels. SO I have whipped up a "media-less flood and drain system". Now the pump wasn't turned back on that's why my crop half died. So HERE hydration is more important than...

For automation, I do have an Arduino with wifi and a liquid level sensor (etape), where my computer terminal prints a string of res level data in liters, which basically tells me if it's draining, and then filling back again, etc. That way I know the pump is actually pumping the grow tubes, and...

Okay yeah those 90 cri ones. Samsung strips doesn't have those, not sure why. Otherwise the PAR photon output is higher with the 4000K, so I really see no benefit to using 3000K or 3500K samsungs

I'm kinda sold on the 4000K having all of the good peaks from the 3000K and 5000K, best of both worlds. Also growing sativa (black widow and banana) so nervous about stretch.

Active hydroponics requires a pump to supply plants with hydration, duh. But I have killed so many crops that I have pretty good reasons why it happens. Sometimes the fault lies in the machine, but usually fault lies in man. So maybe others too can learn from my fuckups. · Never go a day...

I have the option of less efficient 3000K led or more efficient 4000K Samsung leds. So I superimposed two relative colour spectra. But I see no significant departure between those 3000K and 4000K spectra in terms of 680nm+ relative output. Sad Emmerson. 3000K = RED and 4000K = BLUE 3000K...