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Have you tracked slurries? If so, where do you stand as of now? Late bloom will still have some full feeds before ripening starts, so if your starting week 6, I would keep feeding!! Can give some more suggestions if we know your slurries and perhaps what you been feeding!! Did you have a good...

Can throw in 30 ml Tritons for the first week of ripening too. I do a week of Herc/triton/Aphro at 30 ml each and then at least a week of plain 6.5 ph water.........try to get slurries down under 250 ppm....I do a 36 hour dark period and then CHOP!!

I imagine you have a nice crusty bone gum buildup that hinders feed penetration? Can try poking holes everywhere, 1-2" deep, this will help get the feeds & Oly up into the rootzone.

TopD be1, the palm ash will help raise ph. And just keep feeding normal doses of feed at 6.8/6.9. The other extreme would be to feed daily...ugh....but will keep them fed. Will have to reduce volume of feed though so you don't over water, feed strength may need reduced too if feeding daily.

1 or 2 tsp. Per gallon of soil.

I bet it's your chem pheno? They can show a need mid bloom so needs to be bumped up from start of flip. Posiedonzyme should curb it but I think I don't get K Def signs because my Be1 topdress at flip keeps it flowing!!

keep learning......keep reading.....keep asking questions.... I guess we all have are shit in check I guess..LOL!! WE ARE STILL HERE.

Shouldn't kill microbes, just favors different types to thrive in that environment, Some go dormant, some die but they are constantly dying......I would keep the SLF out of the lower ppm slurries and put in feeds for the higher slurries.

The puffy look, a darker green is signs of phos deficiency, under 6.4 and phos uptake slows......so many different nutrient/flush needs across those different phenos reading those numbers......maybe pen is acting funny???? But the calcium & phos demand is only getting bigger for those girls so...

Regular dose EM-1.....30 ml/gal.....just over shoot ph a tenth higher so the EM can drop it to where you want it. The EM can balance any microbe populations that might be dominating and bring order to the chaos.

throw some EM1 in your reset flush, it will allow for more Oly and it's known as the Police or the National Guard because it brings order to the rootzone.....a balancer!!

that shouldn't be of too much concern.

The rootzone and plant was prolly used to the massive amounts of calcium and it prolly needed it, then when feeds leveled off they stopped getting the amount they wanted and were used to.... That's my hypothesis anyway???...LOL....Olympus should be looked at like a nutrient input that happens to...

I still don't get the 1 point drop so abruptly in bloom.....I use so much Oly up in feeds, my mid bloom ph never drops; even when my slurry ppms jump up too high the oly stabalizes the acids. How much Oly does your 1800 ppm feed take to ph where you need it? My 1800 ppm feeds take at least 20-25...

And how do the plants look?

How are your ppms.....before and after feeds? That's crazy to drop a whole point so fast!!!

No prob......let us know what you decide to do and how she reacts. We have all run into this issue, it helps to stick to a set veg length and size pot accordingly, because Nectar grows extremely fibrous rootballs in fabric pots!!

yeah watering gets slow in bloom with a rootbound pot and heavy bone gum. It takes time for my feeds to penetrate but not as long as you are claiming. I rake the surface and often have to poke holes with a pencil or the like all over the surface. It helps.........so does a yucca or a Bokashi. As...

That ph not bad, just bump feeds a bit and ph to 6.3/6.4ish. Olympus is not just a ph buffer, its a very important calcium source, 10% I think. So don't look at it like you need less, it will actually require more as you up feeds. The acids in the feeds and from microbes & roots will manage your...

What are your slurry numbers?