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So what do u think now... do they use sugar beets at all?

http://www.cannagardening.com/cannaboost_a_real_boost?page=0,1

From Canna Website: Some of the active ingredients of CANNABOOST are derived as by-products from the production of bio ethanol and yeast, through the fermentation of molasses from sugar cane or sugar beet and palm. These by-products are called carbohydrates.

They must have changed their sugar source so they can make a bigger profit ... all the gallons of it that I bought years ago said it was derived from sugar beeets right on the bottle. I think the main point is that it is a $500. bottle of sugar water. No more hormones just means it is truely...

Couple of quick thoughts... It would be beneficial to wait for the lights to be on for 20min. - 2 hrs. before watering... And your last watering of the day should be 2hrs. before lights go out.. it's not beneficial to water right before lights turn off and may even cause problems. Keep upping...

I only flush if there is a toxic build up. If u do flush.. then u should flush using a light cal mag solution... Like 60 ppm of cal mag followed by a light feeding. The coco needs to fed with cal mag before it will release any calmag to your plants.. Canna already adds this buffer for you but it...

** TIP: When everything is dialed in just right, then you will be feeding with "X" amount of PPM's and the runoff comes out at 50-100 PPM's less... EXAMPLE: I water with 1200 PPM and my runoff is 1100-1150 PPM's.

It sounds like u may be getting a nutrient deficiency during the 3rd week of flowering everytime, and not a nutrient lockout. Use the calmag... I assume you know that the calmag MUST be added (and mixed in well) to your water BEFORE adding your base nutes / additives. Yes, adjust your base...

How many ml of A&B do u use? What is total ppm of your nutrient solution?

Then I would try 150.. maybe it was something else that caused your lock-out before? Or maybe your strain is sensitive to fertilizer... Try cutting back your base nutes a little bit... The coco should be able to handle 150 ppm of calmag as long as there is sufficient runoff... Just my 2 cents

5ml per gal sounds way heavy..not sure what brand u use but I always used 2ml per gal.

Most brands of coco ate shit bcuz they do not properly rinse before selling and it has way too much salt. If u buy any coco coir besides Canna then test the run off ppm... It should be around 60ppm... But I've seen other big name brands have as much as 2000 ppm, and then they say coco sucks...

Add aprox. 200 ppm of mainly cal-mag before adding your nutes... The only exception would be if your tap water already has the needed cal mag.... Coco commonly has mag issues, and a steady/consistent calcium supply is essential for quality/yield.. consistency is key with calcium.

What happened to the photo section? -WTF are my badass pictures I had on my profile and in my posts??

I'm gnarly.

It cost a lot of money for Canna to ship material from one country to Europe and then ship the heavy bottles of Canna nutrients back into USA... This is a large part of why Canna costs so much... Multiple Overseas SHIPPING! Their products are great quality and they work great and Ralph from...

Fyi, Canna boost is sugar water derived from sugar beets , along with some unknown hormones that Canna won't disclose... But there are only so many hormones that it can be and definitely not worth the money unless money is not a factor.. I recommend using it as a foliar feeding 90% of the time...

What's up guys.. Glad everyone is keeping the thread alive! Hope all my old RIU buds are killing it. Sorry to all those that I failed to reply to.. Ive been on a gnarly bender for the last few years :/ I still grow every year , but I can only grow outdoors in the summer time due to the summer...

This subject doesn't really fall into common general cultivation techniques and I assumed people would study more basic horticulture techniques before they got into researching the influence of music on plants, so that's why I put it in the advanced section... I'm open to moving it to another...

*Adding Rhizotonic after your calmag may be necessary to avoid nutrient precipitation... I'm not sure if your using Rhizotonic or not but I remember it being a issue for me back when I used it.