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Interesting, mine run in series without issues...

You can dim the A-version too, it's just easier with the b-version (attach potentiometer). Yea, i believe the drivers can dim down to 10% of max output. Is it for flower only, or full cycle grow? To be honest, the difference between 3500K and 3000K is marginal. Personally i'm running 3000K...

They are ~50V cobs. I run 6 of them on this: https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/ac-dc-single-output-led-driver-constant-current-cc-hlg--320h--c1050a They run at a little over 50w each, but you could get the B-version of the driver and dim it a little to hit 45w.

I use those with excellent results!

https://www.pro-emit.de/

This is indeed very sad news :( As @Psuagro said, the man was a true pioneer. I tip my hat to Hans with the utmost respect. Peace to you brother

Well... It's pretty easy to cool a led fixture passively. No need for any fans, and even fewer watts spent.

Can't talk for the states, but in Europe the potential energy savings make more than a lot of difference. We tend to pay quite a lot for electricity compared to U.S, and when you can yield the same for fewer watts used, well then that's rather welcome.

cob = chip on board , like Vero, Cree, Luminus and Citizen for instance. strips/boards, as in mid-powered led strips using the same tech as cobs. https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/ Currently, i'm using Cree CXB3590 3000K 80CRI for veg, and Luminus CXM-22 3000K 90CRI for flower. Both could...

It's a trade-off with 80 vs 90CRI. Slightly higher output with 80, and better flowering spectrum with 90. A lot of people are moving towards 90CRI with cobs and strips now.

Sorry to hear that you're closing shop mate. Tasty LED are excellent lights with excellent reputation. Wish you all the best in your future ventures, and I hope you will keep on posting valuable stuff on this forum for all of us to learn from :)

That's what usually happens with these guys... First they run out of arguments, then they run out of insults, and finally they declare that they won, lol

Yea, sorry 'bout that... I'm scandinavian and we tend to use sarcasm a lot. Also in writing... Let me clarify: It is cheaper up front. And again, if the energy savings in the long run are minimal, then it doesn't make sense (from a business perspective) to make the switch.

'cause it's cheaper up front? ...and if you're located in a place where energy costs are low, then so is the incentive to switch to more planet-friendly lights i guess.

Timber HLG (Horticulture Lighting Group) Tasty LED Can't go wrong with any of those, and they're all here on this forum to help with any questions you might have :) There are many others too of course...

Looking excellent as always! Thanks for sharing your grows with us man :bigjoint:

It's in a report separate from the datasheets, click the link i posted before :)

Have a look at this: http://cobkits.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/OLE16-0034-01_CLU056_15kh_LM-80-report.pdf Lumen maintenance report

That driver is suitable for parallel only. It provides 36v and your cobs need 36v each to power up. When wiring in series, the forward voltage of each cob adds together, so in your case you'd need 72v from the driver to power up both cobs in series.

They're identical in output/quality, but your driver options diminish somewhat with the 72v version. You can only run 2 cobs on your driver if it's 72v, and 4 cobs if they're 36v