Optic1
Well-Known Member
Hi all, any questions just let me know so here goes. You can make this as long as you want.
I had put up a carport and it ended up in the back field after rocking out it's auger stakes last year. I loved DoubleJJ's carport greenhouse
https://www.rollitup.org/outdoor-growing/414130-carport-greenhouse-2011-a-new-post.html
but it wouldn't last a month here we just got hit wednesday with 55 mph gusts and yesterday was wicked winds too. So I have a new idea after putting up a wind break fence.
I did a DIY build last year for a flight run and some quail and it lasted all season thru high winds "No Problems" and I am gonna convert it into a greenhouse this year and will show you the build to help you. I will just take out the hardware cloth floor this year and redo the top with some clear greenhouse cover for rain later on in the season and leave up the 2 feet of side netting for some good air flow.
Ok I dropped in some holes 4' apart on the sides and sides were 12 ft apart and 20ft long. Sitting on a tractor is tough work so I grabbed a chair and cracked a cold one. The boys went to work dropping in the 4FT lengths of 4" PVC and running the strings to get our bearings straight. We put up the first arch to see how high this would be with a stick of 20ft 1-1/4" PVC as the arch. After cementing the 1-3/8" fence top rail in the 4" PVC, that 1-1/4" pvc slid right on for the arches. We also drilled a hole in the top rail and put a pin it on the bottom so it wouldn't pull out of the cement. Height is right about 10ft to center. I guess time for another cold one. "DO NOT WORRY ABOUT CENTER POSTS FOR A GREENHOUSE". Just put the center posts in on the end for your railing to sit on if you want to use it. And don't use schedule 125 pvc to save money, use only schedule 40 due to the sun and aging.
We put some gravel in our hole and a small amount of cement in the hole for a base then dropped in our 4' x 4" PVC, inside the 4" pvc we dropped in some more gravel and sand to fill to about 2 ft inside the pipe, then the top two ft of the pipe was filled with cement. You can cement the whole thing but we did this to save concrete money since we had plenty of fill material. Now we put in a 4ft piece of top rail w/pin in the bottom so 2ft is left exposed for our pvc loop. Then backfilled the holes and some concrete at the top. Build a jig to center your top so rails fit.
Next we put on our side rail using a 12ft and a 8ft piece of lumber for our side rail to make our 20ft. We then drilled a hole thru the side rail thru the pvc and top rail and ran a bolt thru to lock these sides down. Again don't worry about center section unless you want a raised floor. Also we were using strong-ties to connect our rails.
Below is a center shot to give you an idea. This year i will use the tractor and pull out the center posts or maybe just leave them after I remove the center flooring and hardware cloth we put in. Here is a closer look at securing the floor and arches. The 4" was put in 4ft apart and filled with concrete, also the rest of the 80# bag of concrete was put in the hole for extra support. The top rail pipe was put in the 4' with a pin in it so it would not come out. The top rail was offset so the perimeter floor and cross braces layed on the concrete pipe. The arch PVC was dropped over the top rail and then we drilled and bolted the frame to the pipes. We tried to pull it out of the ground. That baby ain't goin nowhere. Wish I had done more today but the weather did not cooperate. But as soon as I cleaned up and got the camera the sun came out go figure.
The front section was our loadout area, it is easier to get through a door from a landing area than trying to do it with boxes or supplies and birds going up steps. We poured a 36"X30" cement pad that we will put our steps on. 4x4's were used for a door frame that will be also be made from PVC.
Getting to old for this.......
Yes the center posts were tipped, i bumped the sucker with the tractor lol. too many beers. Never operate equipment drunk or stoned. This year I will change up the load out area so we can walk right on in. Just got to sharpen the chain saw up lol.
Left out a step to show here. So wanted to show you what makes this so solid. Look at the very top and you will see a 20ft piece of 1" pvc bolted down the center, that secures all the ribs and also another 1" pvc going down the sides 2ft up the from the tubes. This locks it all together and barely even rocks in the wind. Last I sprayed on some wood treatment for preserving it since i didnt use any treated lumber. Most of the material I had lying around.
Well hope this helps, my idea this year to grow in it was to just pull out the hardware cloth floor and the center wood and maybe the floor supports. Also if you hit DoubleJJ's thread give him a +rep he gave a lot of good ideas in 2 years of work. i was gonna show this on his but I didnt want him to feel I was hijacking his thread.
Also to secure your top material on, I have found they make clips that are nothing more than a bigger piece of cut pvc that just drops right over your material onto your pvc ribs. Also if you want some great netting just look up netting for birds.
I had put up a carport and it ended up in the back field after rocking out it's auger stakes last year. I loved DoubleJJ's carport greenhouse
https://www.rollitup.org/outdoor-growing/414130-carport-greenhouse-2011-a-new-post.html
but it wouldn't last a month here we just got hit wednesday with 55 mph gusts and yesterday was wicked winds too. So I have a new idea after putting up a wind break fence.
I did a DIY build last year for a flight run and some quail and it lasted all season thru high winds "No Problems" and I am gonna convert it into a greenhouse this year and will show you the build to help you. I will just take out the hardware cloth floor this year and redo the top with some clear greenhouse cover for rain later on in the season and leave up the 2 feet of side netting for some good air flow.
Ok I dropped in some holes 4' apart on the sides and sides were 12 ft apart and 20ft long. Sitting on a tractor is tough work so I grabbed a chair and cracked a cold one. The boys went to work dropping in the 4FT lengths of 4" PVC and running the strings to get our bearings straight. We put up the first arch to see how high this would be with a stick of 20ft 1-1/4" PVC as the arch. After cementing the 1-3/8" fence top rail in the 4" PVC, that 1-1/4" pvc slid right on for the arches. We also drilled a hole in the top rail and put a pin it on the bottom so it wouldn't pull out of the cement. Height is right about 10ft to center. I guess time for another cold one. "DO NOT WORRY ABOUT CENTER POSTS FOR A GREENHOUSE". Just put the center posts in on the end for your railing to sit on if you want to use it. And don't use schedule 125 pvc to save money, use only schedule 40 due to the sun and aging.
We put some gravel in our hole and a small amount of cement in the hole for a base then dropped in our 4' x 4" PVC, inside the 4" pvc we dropped in some more gravel and sand to fill to about 2 ft inside the pipe, then the top two ft of the pipe was filled with cement. You can cement the whole thing but we did this to save concrete money since we had plenty of fill material. Now we put in a 4ft piece of top rail w/pin in the bottom so 2ft is left exposed for our pvc loop. Then backfilled the holes and some concrete at the top. Build a jig to center your top so rails fit.
Next we put on our side rail using a 12ft and a 8ft piece of lumber for our side rail to make our 20ft. We then drilled a hole thru the side rail thru the pvc and top rail and ran a bolt thru to lock these sides down. Again don't worry about center section unless you want a raised floor. Also we were using strong-ties to connect our rails.
Below is a center shot to give you an idea. This year i will use the tractor and pull out the center posts or maybe just leave them after I remove the center flooring and hardware cloth we put in. Here is a closer look at securing the floor and arches. The 4" was put in 4ft apart and filled with concrete, also the rest of the 80# bag of concrete was put in the hole for extra support. The top rail pipe was put in the 4' with a pin in it so it would not come out. The top rail was offset so the perimeter floor and cross braces layed on the concrete pipe. The arch PVC was dropped over the top rail and then we drilled and bolted the frame to the pipes. We tried to pull it out of the ground. That baby ain't goin nowhere. Wish I had done more today but the weather did not cooperate. But as soon as I cleaned up and got the camera the sun came out go figure.
The front section was our loadout area, it is easier to get through a door from a landing area than trying to do it with boxes or supplies and birds going up steps. We poured a 36"X30" cement pad that we will put our steps on. 4x4's were used for a door frame that will be also be made from PVC.
Getting to old for this.......
Left out a step to show here. So wanted to show you what makes this so solid. Look at the very top and you will see a 20ft piece of 1" pvc bolted down the center, that secures all the ribs and also another 1" pvc going down the sides 2ft up the from the tubes. This locks it all together and barely even rocks in the wind. Last I sprayed on some wood treatment for preserving it since i didnt use any treated lumber. Most of the material I had lying around.
Well hope this helps, my idea this year to grow in it was to just pull out the hardware cloth floor and the center wood and maybe the floor supports. Also if you hit DoubleJJ's thread give him a +rep he gave a lot of good ideas in 2 years of work. i was gonna show this on his but I didnt want him to feel I was hijacking his thread.
Also to secure your top material on, I have found they make clips that are nothing more than a bigger piece of cut pvc that just drops right over your material onto your pvc ribs. Also if you want some great netting just look up netting for birds.
