A Few Questions for My First Grow

Grow Area: 60x60x140 Black Orchid Grow Tent
Lighting: 250W HPS
Medium: BioBizz All Mix
Nutes: BioBizz Grow, Bloom, Top Max
Seeds: Auto Northern Lights
Light Cycle: 18/6


I am about to begin my first proper grow and have a few questions that hopefully someone will be able to assist with. If there are any other things which I should be aware of but haven’t asked please feel free to let me know.


1. When germinating the seeds I plan to put them in a glass of water until they sink and then plant them.
a. Should I do anything after they have been planted e.g. cover with cling film?
b. If I should cover the plant pot, how long should I wait until removing it.

3. Should I thoroughly water the soil prior to planting?
a. If so how many times?
b. Is 20-30% extra run off enough?

4. Should I use ¼ of the recommended nutrients until there are 4 leaves?
a. If not, what is the recommended ratio based on the manufacturers suggestion?

5. I live in a country with high relative humidity (>75% generally). Will this have an impact on my grow and if so can I counter this without buying a dehumidifier?

6. If I were to require a stronger light, would I only have to replace the ballast?

7. Should I stop nutes 1 week before I plan to harvest and flush the pots with only water?

Thank,
Raggidy

Just make sure temp are above 75 and keep the roots warm, dont set the pot on a cold surface etc. No Saran wrap at all. Water the pot well before planting and best to add some perlite to the soil mix. Plant about 1/4" deep. You won't need to water before the seed pops in all likelihood. If you do after 3 or 4 days, only lightly. No real experience with autos but I wouldn't feed it until it is working on its 3 set of real leaves.

Humidity is a tough one, make sure you have lots of ventilation. I believe nl is mold resistant though...

Yes, you will need to flush with those nutes.

Hi Raggidy,

I've just finished a grow of Northern Lights Autos, so good luck with yours.

1. I prefer to start them off in Rockwool cubes but you can plant them straight into the soil, but either way has it's merits. With auto's it's best not to transplant them too much if you can help it, so I find the cubes just go straight into the soil after 2 weeks or so and they are fine. You can use a clear plastic cup to cover them to keep the humidity up, and then when they have a couple of sets of leaves you can slowly get them used to the air in the tent.

2. You missed number 2 but I didn't want you to think I wasn't paying attention! lol

3. When you put the seed in just give it a light watering in on top of the seed and around the top of the soil just to keep it moist, using a glass of water as you are not giving it a major soaking. Don't be tempted to over water it, this technique is giving a little water enough to keep the soil moist but dry enough to promote the roots to spread looking for water. It's little and often at this stage.

4. The plant has enough nutrients stored for the first couple of weeks growth, and it says this in their datasheet:

"This well fertilized compost mix is good for a few weeks growth with no added fertilizer so just water is required for a
while. If using small pots or potting up bigger plants then the feed in the mix might not last as long."

It's about balance and they seem to be saying you won't need any nutrients for the first few weeks, so I would play it by ear and just use water until they look like they need feeding.

5. Humidity can be a problem but you need to measure it inside your tent before deciding on buying expensive pieces of equipment.

6. If you replace the ballast then the bulb will still only be a 250w and I wouldn't use a small bulb in a big ballast, unless you want to spend the next few months picking glass out of your weed!! If you want more light then a better option in a 5x5 tent would be a second lamp, in that space you could have 2 x 250w lamps. Obviously 2 x 400w would be better in that space though!

7. Flushing is very much up for debate, but you'll have plenty of time to read about that before it's a problem!!

neo12345 said:

1. I prefer to start them off in Rockwool cubes but you can plant them straight into the soil, but either way has it's merits. With auto's it's best not to transplant them too much if you can help it, so I find the cubes just go straight into the soil after 2 weeks or so and they are fine. You can use a clear plastic cup to cover them to keep the humidity up, and then when they have a couple of sets of leaves you can slowly get them used to the air in the tent.

Click to expand...

Would it be worth purchasing something like this? http://www.theinnergarden.co.uk/Growth-Technology-Rockwool-SBS-Propagation-Kit

neo12345 said:

2. You missed number 2 but I didn't want you to think I wasn't paying attention! lol

Click to expand...

I made a list of all my questions and must have found the answer while doing research. Thanks for your thoroughness!

neo12345 said:

3. When you put the seed in just give it a light watering in on top of the seed and around the top of the soil just to keep it moist, using a glass of water as you are not giving it a major soaking. Don't be tempted to over water it, this technique is giving a little water enough to keep the soil moist but dry enough to promote the roots to spread looking for water. It's little and often at this stage.

Click to expand...

I will bear this in mind.

neo12345 said:

4. The plant has enough nutrients stored for the first couple of weeks growth, and it says this in their datasheet:

"This well fertilized compost mix is good for a few weeks growth with no added fertilizer so just water is required for a
while. If using small pots or potting up bigger plants then the feed in the mix might not last as long."

It's about balance and they seem to be saying you won't need any nutrients for the first few weeks, so I would play it by ear and just use water until they look like they need feeding.

Click to expand...

Thanks, this is what I thought but just wanted to make sure.

neo12345 said:

5. Humidity can be a problem but you need to measure it inside your tent before deciding on buying expensive pieces of equipment.

Click to expand...

I've read that allowing fresh air into the tent can help reduce RH, would you recommend this?

neo12345 said:

6. If you replace the ballast then the bulb will still only be a 250w and I wouldn't use a small bulb in a big ballast, unless you want to spend the next few months picking glass out of your weed!! If you want more light then a better option in a 5x5 tent would be a second lamp, in that space you could have 2 x 250w lamps. Obviously 2 x 400w would be better in that space though!

Click to expand...

Thanks, this is specifically why I asked the question. I plan on keeping my grow relatively small and only growing about 3-4 plants at any one time (growing to save money and not have to deal with drug dealers so i don't need a huge amount).

neo12345 said:

7. Flushing is very much up for debate, but you'll have plenty of time to read about that before it's a problem!!

Click to expand...

Okay great, I will do more research into this while growing.

That kit is basically what I use, except I have a heated propagator. You can buy heat mats for them, or you should be ok if you keep them somewhere fairly warm like on top of a boiler or hot water tank. Formulex is great and has everything seeds and seedlings need and isn't too strong, and you can use it instead of proper nutes for the first few weeks. I feel that young plants like the extra humidity of a propagator, rather than just planting straight in soil. Once they have a couple of sets of leaves you can then transplant them into the soil in the rockwool cubes.

I'm guessing you're in the UK too as that was an English site? So you shouldn't have any problems with humidity, but plants do like fresh air so make sure you get some good airflow into your tent and you'll be fine.

For a heat pad you can also use a reptile tank heating pad. May be a little cheaper considering its not labeled for growing. Im pretty sure that will work. Ive never used any heating pads. Just a green house style container to keep humidity and moisture in.

Yes I'm in the UK. What are the benefits of using heated over non heated?

Seeds like warmth and moisture to germinate, if you've got somewhere warm to put them then that's ok but it needs to be warm 24/7 so a heated propagator or heat mat will solve that. As DJ said you can probably buy one cheaper that isn't for growing, a bit like 'nutrient heaters' which are 3 times the price as aquarium heaters which are the same thing!!