Air intake and extraction

S

Sparkster79

Member
I have a 3x3 tent. With an inline extractor fan venting through rhino carbon filter. The tent gets sucked right in when closed.
Is the suction from the outlet likely to be enough to bring enough fresh air in. Both vent holes are at the top of the tent so I have the inlet ducting hanging down just above the oscillating fan.
I can very easily add a fan bringing fresh air in. And also should the fans and oscillating fan be on during lights off. I normally only have the extractor fan on permanently when it starts to smell.i don't want to be bringing fresh air in when the lights are off while it is cold outside.
 
I have a 3x3 tent. With an inline extractor fan venting through rhino carbon filter. The tent gets sucked right in when closed.
Is the suction from the outlet likely to be enough to bring enough fresh air in. Both vent holes are at the top of the tent so I have the inlet ducting hanging down just above the oscillating fan.
I can very easily add a fan bringing fresh air in. And also should the fans and oscillating fan be on during lights off. I normally only have the extractor fan on permanently when it starts to smell.i don't want to be bringing fresh air in when the lights are off while it is cold outside.
 
Ideally you want the airflow to go through the plant mass to ensure no stagnant air pockets. Not a huge deal with a 3x3 but still you will want to get cross ventilation and a swirl effect with your fans.
Most folks have top extraction or top exit of exhaust air. This means ideally you would have the main entrance of fresh and/or heated-cooled-or dried air should be at the bottom of the tent. This is usually a substantial volume of air and this large volume low speed air can not burn plants. Fans are used to create chaotic airflow ensuring good exchange with outside air.
If you have top exhaust and top venting the exchange rate of the lower part of the tent will be affected.
Do you have your duct fan and the carbon filter on the inside of your tent?
 
Does your tent not have ventilation flaps on the bottom walls?

You want extraction 24/7, humidity spikes as night temperature drops, that's not when you want your extractor off!

Most tents operate fine with just an extractor, unless the need for keeping temp down is so high you need great amounts of airflow, in which case an intake can be used, though I doubt that's needed in a 3x3.
 
sunni said:
You may have accidentally double posted so I merged your th
coreywebster said:
Does your tent not have ventilation flaps on the bottom walls?

You want extraction 24/7, humidity spikes as night temperature drops, that's not when you want your extractor off!

Most tents operate fine with just an extractor, unless the need for keeping temp down is so high you need great amounts of airflow, in which case an intake can be used, though I doubt that's needed in a 3x3.
Click to expand...
No it just has 1 hole each side at the top. I have just been using a bit of ducting to bring the fresh air into the bottom to stop It getting sucked straight out through the filter . When the tent is shut it really does get sucked in. So I have the filter attached to the extractor high up venting out one side then the other side just the ducting hanging down from the intake just above the fan blowing the air around..
Jimski said:
Ideally you want the airflow to go through the plant mass to ensure no stagnant air pockets. Not a huge deal with a 3x3 but still you will want to get cross ventilation and a swirl effect with your fans.
Most folks have top extraction or top exit of exhaust air. This means ideally you would have the main entrance of fresh and/or heated-cooled-or dried air should be at the bottom of the tent. This is usually a substantial volume of air and this large volume low speed air can not burn plants. Fans are used to create chaotic airflow ensuring good exchange with outside air.
If you have top exhaust and top venting the exchange rate of the lower part of the tent will be affected.
Do you have your duct fan and the carbon filter on the inside of your tent?
Click to expand...
Yes. The filter to the extractor high up venting one side. Then ducting hanging down to the bottom from the other side just above the fan blowing the air around.
Click to expand...
 
How bizarre, I've never seen a tent without lower passive ventilation flaps.

What brand is it?

Secret Jardin do a flange that you can fit wherever, you cut a hole and it fits round either side.


So, your fan as it is , does it result in the temp range you want?
Are there zips you could partly open along the bottom to allow more air in?
 
coreywebster said:
How bizarre, I've never seen a tent without lower passive ventilation flaps.

What brand is it?

Secret Jardin do a flange that you can fit wherever, you cut a hole and it fits round either side.


So, your fan as it is , does it result in the temp range you want?
Are there zips you could partly open along the bottom to allow more air in?
Click to expand...
There is a smaller hole at the bottom at the back of the tent. I assume that's for the power cables. I could probably put a smaller ducting in. The tent was sold by bumblebee international about £60 on eBay. it's all I could afford at the time. The temp and humidity are as they should be. I'm not sure how good the reflective what should be mylar is. I should try to see how reflective it is. I have been using photone app on my phone to check the light at the canopy. Never thought of seeing if the reflective material is any good. I have loads of mylar I could stick inside if it's shit
 
Sparkster79 said:
There is a smaller hole at the bottom at the back of the tent. I assume that's for the power cables. I could probably put a smaller ducting in. The tent was sold by bumblebee international about £60 on eBay. it's all I could afford at the time. The temp and humidity are as they should be. I'm not sure how good the reflective what should be mylar is. I should try to see how reflective it is. I have been using photone app on my phone to check the light at the canopy. Never thought of seeing if the reflective material is any good. I have loads of mylar I could stick inside if it's shit
Click to expand...
Yeah, sounds like the cable sock, it probably wouldn't allow much airflow.

If it were me I'd buy a new tent with all the duct socks and passive vent flaps.

But obviously understand that you might not want to, just seems easier than buying an intake fan.

I believe the secret Jardine flange Cost about £20, but it's still only adding one hole.
I've never needed one so not sure how easy they are to fit.

I asked about the temps incase you could use a speed controller to turn the fan down.

It's normal for tent walls to suck in a bit. But how much comes down to how tight the fabric is as well as how much negative pressure there is.

You can buy bars to fit across the walls to minimise it, or make some.

Think I'd be keeping an eye on new tent deals.
But if you go with an intake , just make sure you get one less that the extractor or youl have the opposite problem and that means the uncleaned air will be pushed out
 
driver77 said:
Leave the door unzipped at the bottom if no vents. I run my tents this way even with vents...but my lung room is fairly dark so not much light bleeding in at lights off. With autos it wouldn't matter and I haven't had a problem with photos either.
Click to expand...

I do this cause if my lower vent is open all the air rushes over the fabric pot and drys one plant out too fast.

A long gap provides a bit more of an even air flow into my tent
 
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