Amending Dolomite for next-run's soil

Hi guy and gals,

I just put some germinated seeds into cups of soil, mix with earthworm casting, peatmoss and perlite ratio 40-40-20. I think i just got about 3 weeks before transplant those into 5 gal pots and let them grow to harvest. I plan to amend to prepare the soil right now with blended alfalfa pills (3-1-2) and dolomite, this kind of lime supplies calcium and magnesium which i can lack while growing through and it also buffers pH - i grow organically so pH may go lower then exception. That's all my theory and it seem right to me, my questions are Will dolomite releases soon enough to give its benefits to my plant? (i had heard that lime take about years to start releasing), Is it fine for amending dolomite instead of topdressing or diluting then watering ? And if amending lime is not a good idea, are those any alternatives for my case?

Thanks alot. Have a nice day.

ForAHappyGrow said:

Hi guy and gals,

I just put some germinated seeds into cups of soil, mix with earthworm casting, peatmoss and perlite ratio 40-40-20. I think i just got about 3 weeks before transplant those into 5 gal pots and let them grow to harvest. I plan to amend to prepare the soil right now with blended alfalfa pills (3-1-2) and dolomite, this kind of lime supplies calcium and magnesium which i can lack while growing through and it also buffers pH - i grow organically so pH may go lower then exception. That's all my theory and it seem right to me, my questions are Will dolomite releases soon enough to give its benefits to my plant? (i had heard that lime take about years to start releasing), Is it fine for amending dolomite instead of topdressing or diluting then watering ? And if amending lime is not a good idea, are those any alternatives for my case?

Thanks alot. Have a nice day.

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This will really help you. Dolomite limestone has been tested, it may contain lead. If you were to switch and use crushed oyster shells. Here's why : Cup for cup ( dolo./ Shells). Oyster shells besides calcium it contains 52 micro nutrients, with silica and organic matter.
One cup c.o.s. /bushel of peat moss ( DESTROYS WETLANDS, NON RENEWABLE) Will raise the pH one point. Sphagnum peat moss is neutral and renewable

There are a few different forms, in its fastest release it takes a few months. So I would do it if you have plans to recycle the soil when done, if not, I would not use it.

Its immediate release and tapers with watering frequencies and volume. I saved a misdiagnosed 20 acre coffee farm from being dozed under. Trees went from chlorotic yellow, dropping leaves to greened up and quick healthy growth in 1 week. My employer was Christian and said it was a miracle. I just trusted the soil test and tissue samples. As well as what my eyes were seeing.
The finer the mesh size the quicker it will act and also get consumed by neutralizing or washing thru medium to drains. There's OMRI sources.
If its calcium you want but not buffers than gypsum, calcium sulfate is a good choice to add mor calcium but not magnesium.
The soil pH can be maintained well with compost extracts you make fresh. Not an AACT. And by all means top dress with compost too. The fines and microorganisms will wash in. The coarser stuff becomes a nice mulch by flower time.

Well i missed something. 40% worm casts in your soil mix? Believe it or not there's a limit for too much worm casts. Keep an eye out for micronutrients deficiencies from the soil being too rich and or low oxygen due to its probable heavy soil structure. You may see nitrogen toxicity as well. If you see these signs repot, flush root ball of most of old soil with in reason. New soil will be mixed better of course.

This is what I think of when I hear the word Dolomite

I'd suggest 1-2TBSP of powdered calcium carbonate per gallon for each run.