oh you mean i shouldnt say "NO YOUR FUCKING WRONG, I HAVE NEVER READ ANY OF THAT SO IT MUST NOT BE TRUE!"
civility is the currency of information.
Az Plant Help thread..... spread that knowledge around all sexy like...
- Thread starter Philosophist
- Start date
civility is the currency of information.
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
Damn right you shouldnt! I got nothing but love for the growers in the MMJ community I pay it forward all day lots of dudes from different forums helped me out thats one of the main reasons I'm on here to pay it all back and help out other newbs in hopes they do the same when their time comes I had no one to personally show me how to grow, I read and typed on here before I planted my first seed.
phxfire
New Member
maybe if you read more and posted less your grows would be better. call me whatever names you like anonymously over the internet. who is the coward here?
phxfire
New Member
Good Marketing bro...... It is all about timing....
SWUSAZ
Active Member
Distilled PH'd at 5.6 and temps will help. AZ with high temps then rockwool with only one edge touching the tray bottom has worked every time with roots every where at 13 days temps at 85 for me. I actually am happier with my germ to soil break has not been over 48 hrs for me.
Scupra
Well-Known Member
Any idea what could be going on here? On the 28th I watered with RO water, half strength CalMag, and quarter strength Roots Organic buddha grow. The same day I watered is when I topped them. The picture looks a bit yellow but they are not yellow it is just the picture. Everything else seems fine just these curled up edges? Could they be a little too close to the light? I'm lost, thanks guys!
trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
Any idea what could be going on here? On the 28th I watered with RO water, half strength CalMag, and quarter strength Roots Organic buddha grow. The same day I watered is when I topped them. The picture looks a bit yellow but they are not yellow it is just the picture. Everything else seems fine just these curled up edges? Could they be a little too close to the light? I'm lost, thanks guys!
...heat stress....looks like you have high temps.
i was gonna say the exact same thing.
Scupra
Well-Known Member
All better now guys. Temps are between 72-80 now and the curled edges are gone
phxfire
New Member
Did you recently change lighting?
Scupra
Well-Known Member
I lifted the light up a bit to help with temps but no I did not change lights. I just use the hybrid MH/HPS mixture bulb
YThor
Well-Known Member
Little tip for you: distilled water and RO water (if the membrane is new-ish) both have no buffering capacity; this means that the pH will swing wildly when you add something that is acidic or basic. Moreover, pH probes don't work well with pure water. pH papers are much better at that sort of thing; indicator solutions are also OK.
So, first off, I don't know of any fertilizer products that are designed to provide the "correct" pH (whatever that may be) right out of the bottle. They require adjustment- usually with alkali, because they tend to be slightly acidic in solution. Many products also have buffers added; it is immediately apparent which ones do because it takes substantially more pH up (alkali) to get the pH into the right range. The benefit is that these products tend to support the correct pH during growth. I note from personal experience that General Hydroponics Floranova takes about 4x as much potassium hydroxide solution (which is what I use for pH adjustment- I make my own) than comparable nutrient products that have no buffers added.
You can raise the pH with any one of a number of products; anything in the "pH Up" category at the hydro store will work. Baking soda will work in a pinch, but it adds no nutritional value; it is comprised of sodium (which plants generally cannot use), and bicarbonate (which is harmless). Other alkali, like sodium hydroxide (lye) and potassium hydroxide, are inexpensive and effective, but also extremely caustic (hazardous to eyes and skin) and (unless used with a buffer) will cause the pH to swing quickly. Make sure they are quite dilute before adding to solution; I use 0.1 molar, which works out to 5.61 grams potassium hydroxide into a liter of water. Note that such solutions should be stored in plastic, and not glass.
Potassium carbonate (used in many "pH up" formulations for hydroponics use) is much better, but harder to find.
Scupra
Well-Known Member
So the night I posted this I was in a pinch of coarse.. Now what I use is Ph up that I picked up from the grow shop. I just add CalMag, add nutes and then Ph up little by little to get as close to 6.5 as I can. Thanks for the advice!
try a silica product to raise the ph. this can be better than ph up which will kill certain beneficial bacteria and fungi. it will also add silica to your plants diet which will increase stem strength.
for soil that is what i feed in veg.
swaggersDlite
Well-Known Member
that's right i feed at 6, but 6.5 is acceptable for sure...for soil !!!
onegreenthumb
Well-Known Member
I never let my tap water sit, but I run hydro, we have to think for a minute if the water is safe for human consumption in will in no way harm a plant. Tap water is key, RO water takes a lot more work in the deficiency area , the water in phoenix carries alot of minerals in it that are benificial to plants as well as the clorine. It keeps microbes and pathogens from flourishing in it. If you are doing a res. the best advice I can give is go to health habits and get 35% hydrogen proxide and add to res, it will kill anything in there as well as oxygenate the roots. I have noticed that the water can quickly become low on sulfates causing yellowing often confused with nitrogen deficiency.
onegreenthumb
Well-Known Member
what? everyone should worry about ph, I feel it is the most important part of rapid growth and nice yelds. Watering a 5 will catch up with you in the form of locking out the base nutes N, P, K, and Mg. 6 is great like stated above and I like 5.7 for my res.