Best way to combat pythium and root rot in all hydroponic growing methods.

I'm keeping this very simple. Get u some hth pool shock. Mix 1 gram/ gal of water. This is your shock solution. Then add this at 3 ml/ gal of water in the res. Boom!!!! There u have it no more rot. Cloners will start working 100% for you also if u apply solution to them. YOUR WELCOME.

am keeping my temps in that range with plenty of air bubbles coming from 4 airstones, yet the build up of green type gunk in my res is driving me mad.

how do i stop this?

Green means algae and you have light leaks. Rot is slimy and brownish.

The environmental protection agency (EPA) recommends 0.125 teaspoon (0.6ml) per gallon of water to sterilize it safe enough for drinking.

I have a 50-gal air-tight drum that I use to hold pure RO water. I accidentally left the lid off for a couple days and it started to get some funk smell. Rather than dump the whole thing, I decided to experiment and try the bleach approach. I added 0.5ml / gal NORMAL CONCENTRATION household bleach. Keep in mind, 'CONCENTRATED' forms of bleach will need 30% less.

Anyway, added to my 50-gal RO drum, let it sit for a day, then took the lid off overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. The result: the holding tank no longer smelled like shit nor chlorine and killed whatever was in there. I went on to use that treated RO water through the course of my DWC grow without any issue.

As some have suggested, tap water can help with root rot for this very same reason - tap water contains chlorine. If you use RO water in grow, but want to achieve the same sanitizing effect as tap water, you can add household bleach... but be very, VERY conservative (0.25ml / gal). You wont be drinking your res. But your plants will. You just want enough chlorine to oxidize the organic matter in the water. Add too much, and you'll kill the plant in record time.

Physan 20, 1ml/10 gal water.

Fin.

I used to get the slime big time. With pool shock I can run 90 degree temps in an E-Z cloner with 100% success. pool shock for the win.

Physan 20 is a life saver! I had my first introduction to the "White Snot" recently. I'd never encountered it before and it's damn scary. Physan 20 took care of the problem. I'll keep it close in the future. This is the only product that will get rid of the problem.

ohnothimagin said:

Physan 20 is a life saver! I had my first introduction to the "White Snot" recently. I'd never encountered it before and it's damn scary. Physan 20 took care of the problem. I'll keep it close in the future. This is the only product that will get rid of the problem.

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man u do no this thread is near on 4 years old

A fungal outbreak and the crisis presents a real emergency and high stress for the farmer when all hope and luck fails.
The fungal disease is ubiquitous, an opportunist, is damaging and can be terminal. It's everywhere, it's like air.

Everybody knows that preventing a fungal opportunist outbreak is always better than fighting a full blown outbreak, the aggravation and the real $ cost of the cure any day.
The easiest most logical solution to prevent an outbreak is to simply keep your nutrient DO Supersaturated (100% - 130% DO) in the nutrient solution continuously and inhibit the fungal growth, That sounds really simple, ain't nothing to it .
But, if your DO is low in your nutrient solution and root zone... get ready because you can bet that you probably will have a fungal outbreak coming to your farm sooner than later. Many growers have absolutely no idea if their nutrient DO is low until it's way to late and symptom present. Most growers have never tested their DO with a DO Meter. Many have no idea what a DO Meter is. Wait till you see symptoms and the outbreak crystal clear.
I like the YSI 550A DO Meter, nut they are not free.
J

Here is an easier way, go to petco or petsmart and get pondzyme for 15 dollars, both are carrying on the shelves now. Use this from the beginning, in fact you can even do something with it most don't even know. When you transplant from soil to hydro just apply some pondzyme to the water and no shock as the bacteria in the pondzyme protects the roots, pretty cool stuff.

If you have a real problem and you didn't use pondzyme and the root rot is bad then go to petco or petsmart again and get some erythromycin or Melafix and wait for around 5 days and it will inoculate the roots and kill the bacteria. Then apply pondzyme to keep the roots stable, a two regimen and you will be Ok.

J Henry said:

A fungal outbreak and the crisis presents a real emergency and high stress for the farmer when all hope and luck fails.
The fungal disease is ubiquitous, an opportunist, is damaging and can be terminal. It's everywhere, it's like air.

Everybody knows that preventing a fungal opportunist outbreak is always better than fighting a full blown outbreak, the aggravation and the real $ cost of the cure any day.
The easiest most logical solution to prevent an outbreak is to simply keep your nutrient DO Supersaturated (100% - 130% DO) in the nutrient solution continuously and inhibit the fungal growth, That sounds really simple, ain't nothing to it .
But, if your DO is low in your nutrient solution and root zone... get ready because you can bet that you probably will have a fungal outbreak coming to your farm sooner than later. Many growers have absolutely no idea if their nutrient DO is low until it's way to late and symptom present. Most growers have never tested their DO with a DO Meter. Many have no idea what a DO Meter is. Wait till you see symptoms and the outbreak crystal clear.
I like the YSI 550A DO Meter, nut they are not free.
J

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i didnt even think they had the meters. so if i have hydroton in a 1gal pot what would i just stick the prob in the side of the pot to make sure the water hitting the roots is supersaturated? and how could the DO be 130%? i would think it could only go up to 100%, then again I'm not sure how the dissolved oxygen works in detail
edit: god damnn thats an expensive meter

superstoner1 said:

Green means algae and you have light leaks. Rot is slimy and brownish.

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this^^^^

Vonkins said:

I'm keeping this very simple. Get u some hth pool shock. Mix 1 gram/ gal of water. This is your shock solution. Then add this at 3 ml/ gal of water in the res. Boom!!!! There u have it no more rot. Cloners will start working 100% for you also if u apply solution to them. YOUR WELCOME.

Click to expand...

i have had pools. shock is supposed to kill everything organic in the water, leaving crystal clear chlorinated water....

plants are organic, as are roots. this is a !!! to me, as i can see it could clear contamination, but how will it not affect the plants/roots? not saying it's not a cool idea to test, just genuinely curious...

edit: cat of curiosity posting under my better half's account, forgot to logout/in...

jronnn said:

i didnt even think they had the meters. so if i have hydroton in a 1gal pot what would i just stick the prob in the side of the pot to make sure the water hitting the roots is supersaturated? and how could the DO be 130%? i would think it could only go up to 100%, then again I'm not sure how the dissolved oxygen works in detail
edit: god damnn thats an expensive meter

Click to expand...

Yep, they really do have meters that test DO Saturations. Just turn the meter on, stick the probe in the water and read the results, nothing to it.

The crisis comes when the meter tells you that you’re your nutrient solution is very low on oxygen (DO Sat 40%). The Beneficial’s are suffocating and the dreaded fungus is coming because fungi thrived in low oxygen environments. They are opportunist pathogens and low oxygen is the opportunity they are waiting for. Problems causes by low DO's can be predicted before the root rot attacks.

Don’t feel bad. Most people are in the same boat as you and have no idea how much dissolved oxygen in in their nutrient solution, have no idea how to measure it, no idea what a DO Meter is or how much they cost… that is the norm.

But many have seen a DO chart on the internet and if the chart says water saturates with oxygen at 65F nutrient temp, well, the chart said it right there… who in the world needs a meter anyway when you have the chart in the net?

There are many ways to supersaturate water with dissolved oxygen, 1 way is use a “cone” or a “packed column.” You can make a homemade “packed column” with PVC and some glue. They work real good.

J

J Henry said:

Yep, they really do have meters that test DO Saturations. Just turn the meter on, stick the probe in the water and read the results, nothing to it.

The crisis comes when the meter tells you that you’re your nutrient solution is very low on oxygen (DO Sat 40%). The Beneficial’s are suffocating and the dreaded fungus is coming because fungi thrived in low oxygen environments. They are opportunist pathogens and low oxygen is the opportunity they are waiting for. Problems causes by low DO's can be predicted before the root rot attacks.

Don’t feel bad. Most people are in the same boat as you and have no idea how much dissolved oxygen in in their nutrient solution, have no idea how to measure it, no idea what a DO Meter is or how much they cost… that is the norm.

But many have seen a DO chart on the internet and if the chart says water saturates with oxygen at 65F nutrient temp, well, the chart said it right there… who in the world needs a meter anyway when you have the chart in the net?

There are many ways to supersaturate water with dissolved oxygen, 1 way is use a “cone” or a “packed column.” You can make a homemade “packed column” with PVC and some glue. They work real good.

J

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I'm actually running a sterile res with h2o2. only thing in my water (i hope) is nutes, h2o2 and PH^ an I've knows about dissolved water and how the colder water is the more oxygen it can hold even when i tried finding charts just to get an idea to get a better understanding and i noticed all the charts showed mg/liter or ppm, which obviously depends on temp and other variables I'm sure, do you know what the ideal ppm or mg/liter is for DO or do you only know the %? i want to get a meter now but 900 bucks is a bit out of my range at the moment (just spent 1k on a laptop and 250 on a r.o system) but now I'm lost again lol i have no idea what the cone or packed column are

roseypeach said:

i have had pools. shock is supposed to kill everything organic in the water, leaving crystal clear chlorinated water....

plants are organic, as are roots. this is a !!! to me, as i can see it could clear contamination, but how will it not affect the plants/roots?

Click to expand...

well i guess the same could be said when people use bleach or chlorine or h2o2 in their res. i run a sterile res where i ONLY have h2o2 (29% @ 6ml/gal) and my nutes in the water. i was actually thinking about trying pool shock cause i was having an algae issue and i assume its a lot cheaper to use than h2o2 and probably needs to be applied way less often

jronnn said:

I'm actually running a sterile res with h2o2. only thing in my water (i hope) is nutes, h2o2 and PH^ an I've knows about dissolved water and how the colder water is the more oxygen it can hold even when i tried finding charts just to get an idea to get a better understanding and i noticed all the charts showed mg/liter or ppm, which obviously depends on temp and other variables I'm sure, do you know what the ideal ppm or mg/liter is for DO or do you only know the %? i want to get a meter now but 900 bucks is a bit out of my range at the moment (just spent 1k on a laptop and 250 on a r.o system) but now I'm lost again lol i have no idea what the cone or packed column are

Click to expand...

Actually H2O2 and chlorinated water both are a great antimicrobials and disinfectant, kills microbes by the millions, even kills the beneficial microbes. But why would you want to kill the Beneficial’s with the routine application of these chemicals or suffocate them (lack of oxygen)? Beneficial’s are, well, beneficial to the eco system healthy.

Yes, I do know the difference between DO % Saturation and DO Concentration expressed as ppm or mg/L:

PPM and mg/L means the same thing, just 2 different names… maybe like TORR and partial pressure.

Oxygen saturation (symbol SO2) is a relative measure of the amount of oxygen that is dissolved or carried in a given medium. It can be measured with a dissolved oxygen probe such as an oxygen sensor or an optode in liquid media, usually water. The standard unit of oxygen saturation is percent (%).

The expression "1 ppm" means a given solute exists at a concentration of one part per million parts of the solution. One ppm is one-millionth of a gram per gram of sample solution. Expressed another way; 1 ppm is one gram of solute per million grams of sample solution. In case of DO Concentration, the solute is 1 very specifically gas, elemental O2 (not air, a mixture of many different gases) and the solution is fresh H2O.

Google Search is free. It's is a very powerful too and you’re always only 1 click away from a having a Eureka moment of discovery.

Assuming is quick, easy and fast (like assuming there is always plenty of oxygen in the air, just keep the water temp low and the DO Saturation chart is cheaper than a DO Meter and the DO chart is always dependable and always correct) don't worry be happy,
Assuming can cause serious problems that are often fatal not reversible… If you don’t know and guess or happen to assume wrong, expect issues, possible fungal infestations, dead plants, dead Beneficial’s and that awful slime on the roots and in the bottom of the box.

When crop health and crop failure is at stake, it’s always better to know than to assume or guess. Science trumps luck and hope.

J

Wow a resurrected thread from way back huh lol
^^^^^I don't get the % when speaking in amounts of DO either but I'm relating it to something like relative humidity, so the amount it can hold to what it is holding, which is wrong obviously. But besides that, I got the rot in a spray system with no standing water and timed sprayers which I thought was pretty hard due to the amount of O2 available. Turns out that my actual root zone was getting above 70 on a consistent basis. Lowering the temps in both the root zone and Res, plus adding hydroguard has improved things tremendously from this (2nd pic) to this (1st pic), I have recently replaced the hydroguard with OregonismXL. Just a note that pool shock, bleach, and H2O2 did not seem to cure but did hold it at bay.