brewing tea vs mammoth P

im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ah guys

im talking to my friend about why hes better off brewing a basic tea over using products like recharge, mammoth P or whichever of the bottled products on the shelf for BB or myco

but i lack the organic/biology experience and knowledge to properly get my point across, so im hoping you guys can help explain all the ways a home brewed tea is superior to the store bought bottled options (aside from the obvious pgr's they slip into the bottled shit)

thanks

basic tea
5 gallon bucket with air stone
5 cups compost 50/50 cow manure/ ewc
(prep compost 4 days prior with oats to build fungal web)
4 oz molasses or brown sugar

brew 24-36 hours makes 20 gallons finished tea
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
im4satori said:
ah guys

im talking to my friend about why hes better off brewing a basic tea over using products like recharge, mammoth P or whichever of the bottled products on the shelf for BB or myco

but i lack the organic/biology experience and knowledge to properly get my point across, so im hoping you guys can help explain all the ways a home brewed tea is superior to the store bought bottled options (aside from the obvious pgr's they slip into the bottled shit)

thanks

basic tea
5 gallon bucket with air stone
5 cups compost 50/50 cow manure/ ewc
(prep compost 4 days prior with oats to build fungal web)
4 oz molasses or brown sugar

brew 24-36 hours makes 20 gallons finished tea
Click to expand...
4oz of molasses not good. you want like 1TBSP per 3 gallons of water (if that really). if trying to brew fungal teas (assuming you want increased P delivery) then omit the sweetner and substitute with humic/fulvic acids (can extract from compost with water) or fish hydrolysate (dilute before adding to the bucket to neutralize the buffer).

recipe can be found here: https://www.lexiconoffood.com/link/compost-tea-basic-recipe-0

the problem with mammoth P, is that you have to keep applying it. it does not continually exist in the soil.

home brewed teas are better than stuff in a bottle because they are ALIVE and AEROBIC and DIVERSE, which is what you want in a good soil... lots of oxygen and diversity.

can't really put it any simpler than that :)
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I use Tribus, but I make it go further by brewing it with carboload and some airstones. I put 5 mL in a 30 gallon mix tank, let it stew for a few days and there is a lot more Tribus than I put in.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
Aerobic means that they use free oxygen, and don't usually contribute appreciably to the level of free oxygen like aeration would for example.

They use the oxygen for different chemical processes, it's fascinating.

What I know is, that when you brew a tea and add a culture to it, all you are doing is culturing hopefully more of the bacteria you want. The difference is, that you know with some certainty what you are getting when you pay for a bottle of something and there are absolutely no guarantees that you will grow the bacteria you want in your tea.

I think that both have their purpose. One is not better, they are equally useful. One is more expensive though, so it's up to them where they want to put their money.
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
4oz of molasses not good. you want like 1TBSP per 3 gallons of water (if that really). :)
Click to expand...
thank you for the reply

i was wondering, did you notice in my first post the tea mix uses 4oz to make 20 gallons of tea? which is roughly the same amount you suggest at 1tbsp per 3 gallons
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
im4satori said:
thank you for the reply

i was wondering, did you notice in my first post the tea mix uses 4oz to make 20 gallons of tea? which is roughly the same amount you suggest at 1tbsp per 3 gallons
Click to expand...
ok the way you wrote it out made it look like 4oz for a 5 gal bucket.

I mean really if you have a good compost that has good bacteria, i wouldn't even bother with the sweetener. I'd go for the fungal foods (the fish hydro or humic/fulvic acids).
 
C

cosmonautking

Active Member
somewhat of a difficult question to answer. but in all honesty no THESE arent the same. mammoth p is unique in its own way like shulby says.... buuuuut the thing i think was forgotten is the strength of mammoth p microbes
so in short.... for almost every other product aact and such is the same thing.... photoplus, urb, recharge, tribus, etc are all bacillus strains... with recharge and photoplus also having endo and ecto myco.... and urb having an amazing humate. these bacillus strains are the same as L.A.B, compost etc even though a natural source will be more diverse, it wont have nearly as strong of a population... this is where something like tribus comes in... they use a 10billion spore count vs like 1billion with other products.... this gets the ball closer to outdoor microbial levels, thus outdoor level microbe populations with indoor control, is why tribus shines.... and in all reality they are just a general digestive microbe.... nothing specific... then you get to something like mammoth and photoplus. which while are still completely different, photoplus uses a specific phosphorus and potassium as a microbe food. this influences a P and K fixing bacteria to be cultured, thus increasing p and k availability... "culturing" a pk microbe.... THIS is where mammoth p is different.... mammoth p is a completely different family of bacteria outside of the bacillus family. they are a specific phosphorus fixating microbe, they cultured nine different species, through 30 generations.... its this extremely thorough generational breed, raises the resilience of the microbes, so they work better with alternate colonies in the rhizosphere.....
so rounding to it.... the reason why most of those products work well together, and harmoniously is because they are the same bacteria, and the secondary ingredients along with the spore count is the only difference..... the reason why mammoth p works well together is because its cultured to thrive once introduced....... technically you dont have to reapply every time to get the bacteria into the soil, even though you should..
 
DankTankerous

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
4oz of molasses not good. you want like 1TBSP per 3 gallons of water (if that really). if trying to brew fungal teas (assuming you want increased P delivery) then omit the sweetner and substitute with humic/fulvic acids (can extract from compost with water) or fish hydrolysate (dilute before adding to the bucket to neutralize the buffer).

recipe can be found here: https://www.lexiconoffood.com/link/compost-tea-basic-recipe-0

the problem with mammoth P, is that you have to keep applying it. it does not continually exist in the soil.

home brewed teas are better than stuff in a bottle because they are ALIVE and AEROBIC and DIVERSE, which is what you want in a good soil... lots of oxygen and diversity.

can't really put it any simpler than that :)
Click to expand...
would Neptune's Harvest work, it's fish hydrolysate but it does contain phosphoric acid. I'm guessing that's why you say to dilute it before adding, how much would you dilute it?
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
DankTankerous said:
would Neptune's Harvest work, it's fish hydrolysate but it does contain phosphoric acid. I'm guessing that's why you say to dilute it before adding, how much would you dilute it?
Click to expand...
You just pour it into some water before you add it to the brew bucket. Elaine says it’s helps neutralize the acid. Neptune’s is what I use as well
 
DankTankerous

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
You just pour it into some water before you add it to the brew bucket. Elaine says it’s helps neutralize the acid. Neptune’s is what I use as well
Click to expand...
Got it, I will be making my own amino acid but it won’t be ready for another month at least
 
1joeblowuknow

1joeblowuknow

New Member
You can brew all kinds of things when going at it on your own. High tech , high investment scientifically researched developed, tested and produced products are very specific with there approach, use factors and effectiveness. I suggest that you research and test for results compared to cost and return. You want high return and high percentage of success stick with proven products and educate yourself about them how they work and record and keep your data.
 
1joeblowuknow

1joeblowuknow

New Member
cosmonautking said:
somewhat of a difficult question to answer. but in all honesty no THESE arent the same. mammoth p is unique in its own way like shulby says.... buuuuut the thing i think was forgotten is the strength of mammoth p microbes
so in short.... for almost every other product aact and such is the same thing.... photoplus, urb, recharge, tribus, etc are all bacillus strains... with recharge and photoplus also having endo and ecto myco.... and urb having an amazing humate. these bacillus strains are the same as L.A.B, compost etc even though a natural source will be more diverse, it wont have nearly as strong of a population... this is where something like tribus comes in... they use a 10billion spore count vs like 1billion with other products.... this gets the ball closer to outdoor microbial levels, thus outdoor level microbe populations with indoor control, is why tribus shines.... and in all reality they are just a general digestive microbe.... nothing specific... then you get to something like mammoth and photoplus. which while are still completely different, photoplus uses a specific phosphorus and potassium as a microbe food. this influences a P and K fixing bacteria to be cultured, thus increasing p and k availability... "culturing" a pk microbe.... THIS is where mammoth p is different.... mammoth p is a completely different family of bacteria outside of the bacillus family. they are a specific phosphorus fixating microbe, they cultured nine different species, through 30 generations.... its this extremely thorough generational breed, raises the resilience of the microbes, so they work better with alternate colonies in the rhizosphere.....
so rounding to it.... the reason why most of those products work well together, and harmoniously is because they are the same bacteria, and the secondary ingredients along with the spore count is the only the difference..... the reason why mammoth p works well together is because its cultured to thrive once introduced....... technically you dont have to reapply every time to get the bacteria into the soil, even though you should..
Click to expand...
that was the best word towards this subject I have heard. Thanks !
 
1joeblowuknow

1joeblowuknow

New Member
Most of the microbial and fungi inoculates dont really have in them what the label says. They certainly dont have the listed cfu/ml count as stated on the label. So buyers need to really do their homework.
 
R

rsbigdaddy

Well-Known Member
I'm new to make tea I have 250 gallon of tank with 6 cubic feet of the chicken manure compost from homedepot been brewing for 6 days what type of dilution rate should I use I check on it today it warm and has steam coming off it
 

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