building a wall? wut materials to use?

duff420

Well-Known Member
so i wanna section off half of a bedroom im wondering wut i should do for a wall? hang some material from the cieling or go all out and get hammers and nails and build a wall. lol. any advice would be great. thanks.
 

buggs bunny

Well-Known Member
use 2 by 4s and build a wall every two feet center a 2by4,use a single top and bottom plate,then you can put up dry wall or thin plywood or staple some plastic
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
Screw all that work, just put up some white/black poly... Only tools needed are a staple gun, and a pair of scissors...
 

xogenic

Well-Known Member
if your going for stealth you can get theise click togeather metal frames and you just atach plasterboard and your done if just fill the spaces inbetween the plasterboard with a bit polly filler and wallpaper it and you wont notice the diference

then you canmessaround making secret entrances and get yourself a one way mirror so you can see out of the grow room if you are in there but no one can see in just for kicks lol
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
That's taking it to the next level... But bright lights behind mirror glass doesn't work... You can see through the mirror.

Good idea though. :mrgreen:
 

uk WeeD

Well-Known Member
build a wall (wood and plasterboard (drywall))to the ceiling so it looks like part of the room
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
I guess the big question is if this wall can be permanent, and if you want your grow room concealed...

If you want it hidden, frame up a real wall.

If it's temporary, hang up the plastic.
 

TOKEMASTERFLEX

Well-Known Member
If u like to have people at your house and u don't want them to see it then use 2x4s and Sheetrock. Otherwise use panda film. Really it's your choice both will work great
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Agreed, if you want to be able to rip it down quickly I'd go with the panda-film.. Possibly add some 2x2 rails for extra support if it will be sizable.. You'll want velcro stripping the length of 3 sides of your intended door, the rest can be tacked down.. You'll also want a way to reenforce the end of the cuts for your door as plastic cuts often like to travel..
If you'd rather have an actual wall then I'd check out hardware places to see what kind of lightweight paneling they carry.. Drywall is heavy, messy, and it takes a real pro to tape/sand it so that it looks really good when finished.. If you intend to pass this wall off as natural in a home done with drywall though, then this is the only way..
I once resorted to building a veg closet out of pegboard and panda film because there was nothing but drywall available.. That was actually a kickass method!
As for framing, there are options again.. You 'could' go with 2x2's if there won't be any switch-boxes in it, but stud length 2x4's are the norm, and often cheaper ($2 a piece here).. Stud spacing should be 24" (1 stud + 1 gap).. This is so 4' sheets meet up with the studs for nailing purposes..
Even cuts, and square corners are the key to a good wall.. You'll want a good level, and a good square if you don't want a ghetto wall..

You can build the frame box on the floor if you are positive you have the clearance you need to place it, and you are 'positive' the room height will match your wall height along its entire length.. Not very often a good idea in a renovation really..
Start with the ceiling plate.. Tack it up, then make sure your end studs are cut 'evenly' to proper length, and use them in conjunction with your level to place the floor plate.. If this will be in your basement, you will need a drill capable of drilling into some likely DAMN hard concrete, and special bolts called tap-cons to fasten the floor plate.. If your wall is less than 8' though, and you can fasten both ends really well to existing structure you can leave the floor plate floating on a divider wall..
 

MrHowardMarks

Well-Known Member
And you can watch some episodes of This Old House in the process... :mrgreen:

It's really not that hard to do framing and hang drywall...

I used to do it for a living, rehabbing houses that is... Electric is the big pain in the ass for most people.

Really it's up to you, building an actual wall will take a decent amount of time effort and money, plastic is cheap...

And what born2killspam said about cutting plastic and it wanting to "run" is true... I suggest using duct tape on both sides of the plastic, in the shape of your door, and cutting along the inside edge of the duct tape, it worked for my last room, the duct tape keeps the plastic from splitting past it.
 

probmxer265

Active Member
From experience from being in the construction trade im a commercial carpenter and work on hospitals. i would build the frame out of 2x4's the exterior wall i would drywall with gypsom moisture and mold resistant drywall it has a purple face i would then seal all framing with calking to kepp out moisture in the rest of the room and insulate between the studs to help maintain the constant temp to save on energy to cool and heat and on the interior i would use what id called densesheild it is a fiberglass mixed boared with a rubberized gray coating which is water resistant and is used on shower walls since the grow room will produce such a high amount of humidity. it will cost you a little more this route but if this is gonin to be a long term room mold is gonna be your biggest concern and its not safe for you and your plants if the mold pours get disturbed.
 

halzey68

Well-Known Member
heres a couple pics of my divider. i placed a piece of particle board between 2 studs and cut holes for my ventalation to have some support. You should be able to find adhesive zippers to make your doorway. there is also a picture of my window from the outside. You will notice all you can see is miniblinds and the window is open a few inches. A couple of other pictures shows my filter box built into the window frame and sealed off with 7/8" particle board. This is light and air tight to exhaust to outside with no smell. Thought you might like to see a bedroom conversion. I made a shelf in the closet for my seedlings and clone with T-5's. I have 1x 1000 in the veg room and 2 x 1000 in the flower room. A 6" fan cools the hoods in the flower room and a 4" cools the veg room hood. I placed kitchen/bathroom fans from home depot on the ceiling to remove hot air trapped high. Oscillating fans in both rooms for circulation. I get temps in the summer of 110 outside in the shade, but can keep my rooms in the 70's with my central A/C. Oh , the bedroom started out 8'3" X 11' 4" with a closet 47" wide and 2' deep. The flower room ended up 6' X 8'3 and the veg came out to 5'1" X 5', so i can open the door into the room.
 

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